Marcus Everyday
Page 17
Masterclass ULTIMATE MASHED POTATO
Wherever you shop, the floury potatoes are likely to be labelled for function: what’s a chipper, a roaster and what’s good for mash. But the process is equally important when it comes to mash. It’s very straightforward: cut evenly, cook evenly and don’t rush. First, peel the potatoes cleanly, then wash them and cut them all into evenly sized pieces, otherwise the smaller potato pieces will overcook, and before they break they will absorb water, which will make your mash watery and tasteless. Boil them in salted water at a slow boil – a fast boil will overcook the outside before the middle of the potato chunks are cooked through; you don’t want lumps of undercooked potato in your mash.
Once the potatoes are cooked all the way through, but not quite falling apart, drain and leave them for a good 5 minutes, then shake them around and put them back in the pan, off the heat. The potatoes should still be hot enough to take the butter on board. Mash to your liking – a potato ricer really does help.
There are a few things you can add at this point; hot milk, butter or even cheese or herbs. If I am glazing something, like my Chicken, Leek and Wholegrain Mustard Potato Pie or a shepherd’s pie, I use egg yolk to enrich the mashed potato. You don’t need an egg yolk, but you do need tons of butter. Potatoes cooked correctly will take on more milk and more butter – for a family of four, I put anything up to three-quarters to a whole pack of butter into my mashed potato and it tastes absolutely amazing. My kids love it. (And butter is good for you, by the way.) But the key is that the potato must be able to absorb that butter. The butter is effectively an oil – it’s saturated, and it can taste greasy if you don’t incorporate it properly. Add the cubed cold butter and whip it up with a rubber spatula, almost aerating it. You need three parts milk to four parts potato – so if you have 600g potatoes you’ll need 450ml milk.
Each time you add a bit of butter, add a bit of hot milk and repeat. Adding cold milk will cool it, which means you’re back to square one and you will have to go back to the hob to reheat the potato, risking burning it at the bottom of the pan. If you’re adding an egg yolk, whip it in last.
I like to season it at different stages: when boiling the potatoes, then again when adding the butter and the milk, and then again at the final taste test. The key to seasoning something well is to never to add it all at the end. Salt needs to be brought into the equation from the beginning to bring out the best flavour of the potato.
Quince, Rosemary and Honey Trifle
You probably associate raspberry trifle with Christmas. Delicious though they are, raspberries are most definitely not in season in December. I have therefore opted to use a fruit that is in peak season: fragrant quince. Everyone has their own interpretation of a trifle, and no one ever thinks of using quince. It’s seen as an unusual fruit, and has such a unique flavour. When cooked, it turns a lovely deep shade of pinky red, so makes a perfect addition. I could eat trifle throughout the year, not just at Christmas.
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SERVES: 8 | PREP TIME: 30 MINUTES, PLUS CHILLING, COOLING AND SETTING | COOKING TIME: 1¾ HOURS
250g honey
1 sprig of rosemary
2 large quince, peeled, quartered and cored (550g)
3 gelatine leaves
200g Madeira cake, diced into 2cm cubes
25ml dry sherry
FOR THE CUSTARD
150ml milk
150ml double cream
3 sprigs of rosemary
4 egg yolks
50g caster sugar
2 gelatine leaves
FOR THE CREAM
150g double cream
100g crème fraîche
finely grated zest of 1 clementine
Place the honey and rosemary in a medium saucepan. Add 750ml warm water, bring to the boil then reduce to a gentle simmer and add the quince. Cover and simmer for 1½ hours, until the quince are soft.
Strain the quince over a heatproof bowl and pour the liquid back into the saucepan. Return to the heat and simmer for a further 10–15 minutes. Pour the liquid from the saucepan into a measuring jug – you want 400ml. Return this to the pan, setting the rest aside.
When the quince are cool enough to touch, cut them into 2cm dice and refrigerate.
Soak the 3 gelatine leaves in a shallow bowl of cold water for 5 minutes.
Bring the 400ml of syrup to the boil. Squeeze the water from the gelatine and stir it into the hot liquid until completely dissolved. Strain into a clean, small heatproof container and refrigerate for 1–3 hours until set.
To make the custard, put the milk, cream and rosemary sprigs in a medium saucepan. Bring to a gentle simmer then remove from the heat. Cover with clingfilm and leave to infuse for 20 minutes. Strain, discarding the rosemary, and pour the infused milk back into the saucepan. Bring back to just below the boil, stirring frequently.
Put the egg yolks and sugar in a mixing bowl and whisk together. Slowly pour the hot milk mixture into the bowl, whisking as you do so.
Pour the mixture back into the pan and cook over very low heat, stirring continuously, until the mixture coats the back of a wooden spoon. While the custard is cooking, soak the 2 leaves of gelatine in a shallow bowl of cold water for 5 minutes.
Squeeze the water from the gelatine and stir it into the hot custard until completely dissolved. Strain through a sieve, cover and chill in the fridge.
For the cream, whisk the cream, crème fraîche and clementine zest together in a bowl until stiff peaks form.
To assemble the trifle, place the quince, diced sponge and sherry in your trifle bowl along with 200ml of the reserved quince syrup (any leftovers make a great addition to a champagne cocktail or gin and tonic, by the way). Cut the quince jelly into cubes and add it to the bowl. Mix very gently. Whisk the custard then pour it on top. Finish with the cream and serve straight away or refrigerate for up to 4 hours before serving.
MARCUS’ TIP:
I prefer my trifle not straight from the fridge as the flavour and texture improve when it is not so cold. I therefore make all the elements up then assemble it just prior to serving.
Mince Pie Puddings with Brandy Cream
If you are not a fan of traditional heavy Christmas pudding, then this is a recipe for you. It combines the flavours of mince pies with Christmas pudding, in a lighter style. The fruit mince mix gets better the longer it marinates, so if you can do this at least 3 days in advance you will get an improved flavour in the finished puddings.
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SERVES: 6 | PREP TIME: 15 MINUTES, PLUS 3 DAYS INFUSING | COOKING TIME: 25 MINUTES
FOR THE FRUIT MINCE
1 cooking apple, grated (150g)
finely grated zest of 1 orange
20g pitted prunes, finely chopped
50ml brandy
½ whole nutmeg, grated
1 tbsp ground cinnamon
120g shop-bought Christmas mincemeat
FOR THE BRANDY CREAM
2 tbsp soft dark brown sugar
50ml brandy
150ml double cream
FOR THE PUDDING MIX
65g butter, plus extra for greasing
100g soft dark brown sugar
100g golden syrup
½ tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp ground ginger
½ tsp ground mixed spice
60ml milk
1 egg
140g self-raising flour
Mix all of the fruit mince ingredients together in a bowl. Cover and refrigerate for at least 3 days.
To make the brandy cream, put the sugar and brandy in a small saucepan and place over low heat. Heat until the sugar has dissolved then remove from the heat and allow to cool. When cool, whisk it into the cream gently, just to combine. Cover and refrigerate.
Preheat the oven to 190°C/170°C fan/gas 5. Grease 6 pudding ramekins and set them on a baking tray.
To make the pudding mix, place the butter, dark brown sugar, golden syrup and spices in a small saucepan over low heat. When t
he butter begins to melt, stir until all of the butter has melted. Remove from the heat and transfer to a mixing bowl. Add the milk and egg. Mix. Gently fold in the flour, taking care not to over-mix.
Divide the fruit mince evenly among the ramekins then top with the pudding mix. Bake for 20–25 minutes, until a skewer inserted into the puddings comes out clean.
Serve the puddings warm, with the brandy cream drizzled over the top.
Boxing Day Bubble and Squeak Pie
Bubble and squeak is a really traditional dish to serve the day after a roast, and a great way to use up any leftovers. Use this recipe as a guide, as you may have different vegetables, or meat, left over from Christmas Day or your Sunday roast, so add it all in. I like to serve this with cranberry sauce and gravy on the side.
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SERVES: 6 | PREP TIME: 15 MINUTES | COOKING TIME: 1 HOUR
60g butter
2 onions, thinly sliced
6 tbsp vegetable oil
500g roast potatoes, sweet potato, pumpkin or celeriac, diced
200g cooked Brussels sprouts, chopped
300g cooked meat (turkey, ham or beef), diced
100g gravy
6 sheets of filo pastry
1 tbsp onion seeds
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6.
In a large frying pan, heat 30g of the butter over medium heat. When hot, add the onions, season with salt and cook for 20–25 minutes until golden. Remove from the pan, transfer to a large bowl and set aside. Clean the pan.
Put 3 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in the frying pan and heat over high heat. When hot, add the cooked potatoes (or other veg you are using). Season with salt and pepper and cook for about 5 minutes, until crispy. Add them to the onions. Repeat the process with the remaining oil, cooking the sprouts then the meat for about 5 minutes each until crispy. Add to the potatoes and onions.
Add the gravy to the bowl of cooked leftovers and gently mix through. Transfer to a pie dish, around 26cm in diameter.
Melt the remaining butter and use it to brush each sheet of the filo pastry. Lightly scrunch each sheet of pastry and place on top of the bubble and squeak. Sprinkle with the onion seeds then bake for 20–25 minutes until the pastry is golden. Remove from the oven and serve.
MARCUS’ TIP:
Onions have a natural sweetness, which is only found when you cook them slowly in a covered pan. Sweating an onion slowly brings out its real core flavour. You need to have patience.
Crackling’d Slow-cooked Pork Shoulder with Baked Apple Sauce
In my last book, New Classics, I included a section on brining, and why I use the technique as often as I do. The main benefits of it are that firstly, it seasons the ingredient all the way through, rather than just on the surface. Secondly, it tenderises the meat. I have brined the pork shoulder here, which needs 12 hours in the brine, so get ahead and start it the day before you want to serve the dish. The rock salt draws out the moisture in the skin, ensuring crispy crackling. We generally have roast pork on New Year’s Day and this is the perfect winter warmer.
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SERVES: 6 | PREP TIME: 15 MINUTES, PLUS BRINING AND RESTING | COOKING TIME: ABOUT 2 HOURS
1 boned and rolled pork shoulder (about 1.4kg), skin finely scored (you can ask your butcher to do this)
1 tbsp rock salt
1 onion, quartered
3 cooking apples, cored and quartered (650g)
¼ bunch of thyme
½ nutmeg, finely grated
200ml good-quality vegetable or chicken stock
2 tbsp honey
100–200ml apple juice
freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE BRINE
140g table salt
½ tsp white peppercorns
½ tsp coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
6 sprigs of thyme
2 bay leaves
To make the brine, put all of the ingredients in a medium-large saucepan, with 500ml water. Place over high heat and bring to the boil to dissolve the salt, then remove from the heat and add 1.5 litres of cold water. Allow to cool.
Place the pork shoulder in a large container and pour the cooled brine over the top, ensuring the shoulder is fully submerged. Cover and refrigerate for 12 hours.
Remove the pork from the brine and pat it dry with kitchen paper. Place the shoulder on a wire rack, sprinkle the scored skin with the rock salt and rub it in really thoroughly. Leave it out of the fridge for 1½ hours before roasting, to allow it to come to room temperature.
Preheat the oven to 230°C/210°C fan/gas 8.
Place the onion, apples (skin on), thyme, nutmeg and a good grind of black pepper in a roasting tray large enough to fit the pork. Add the stock, place the pork on top, skin side up, then put in the oven and roast for 35 minutes.
Turn the heat down to 170°C/150°C fan/gas 4 and cook for a further 1½ hours. Remove from the oven and carefully transfer the pork from the roasting tray into a dish. Cover loosely with foil and leave to rest for 20 minutes.
Remove the thyme stalks from the roasting tray then scrape the onion and apple into a blender or food processor. Add the honey and 100ml of the apple juice. Blitz until smooth, adding more apple juice if needed. Keep somewhere warm.
Remove the string from the pork and carve, using a very sharp knife. Serve with the apple sauce.
MARCUS’ TIP:
When carving meat with a crispy skin, such as pork or duck, slice from the underside so the skin is sliced last. You will get a cleaner cut.
Ham, Membrillo and Gruyère Bakes
These make a great canapé as well as an addition to a lunch or supper dish. You can make them and freeze them ahead, baking them in a hot oven when you’re ready to serve. They are also a great way to use up any cheese and ham left from Christmas! Membrillo, a quince paste, is the perfect accompaniment to cheese – its sweetness complements the salty creaminess very well.
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SERVES: 4 | PREP TIME: 15 MINUTES, PLUS CHILLING | COOKING TIME: 20 MINUTES
320g flaky puff pastry sheet
1 tbsp wholegrain mustard
4 tbsp cream cheese
20g membrillo
4 slices of cooked ham
90g Gruyère cheese, grated
1 egg, beaten
freshly ground black pepper
Line a baking tray with baking parchment.
Cut the puff pastry into 8 rectangles, 4 slightly larger than the other 4. Refrigerate.
Mix the mustard and cream cheese together in a bowl with a good grind of black pepper.
Place the smaller pastry rectangles on the lined baking tray. Spread the membrillo on the base of each, leaving a 1cm border around the edges of the pastry. Place the ham on top, then cover with the mustard mix. Top with the grated Gruyère, leaving the border intact.
Take the remaining larger pastry rectangles out of the fridge and score 6 small horizontal lines in each one. Brush the borders of the topped pastry rectangles with the beaten egg. Place one of the scored pastry pieces on top of each one. Using the side of your hand, carefully press the edges of the 2 pastry pieces together, to seal the filling in. Brush the top of each parcel with beaten egg then place the entire tray in the fridge for 10 minutes.
When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 210°C/190°C fan/gas 7. Bake the parcels for 15–20 minutes until golden, then serve warm.
MARCUS’ TIP:
I generally have a few ‘cooking’ cheeses in my fridge. Cheddar, for a milder, kid-friendly cheese, then also Gruyère and smoked Applewood or Monterey Jack. Gruyère has a sweeter flavour and the latter two, a lovely smokiness.
This is about sharing food with friends and family. I find it fascinating how differently people do weekend dining. Whether it’s for entertaining friends or just showing off to your family, these times are about taking your food up a notch, putting in a little extra effort and planning but still enjoyin
g the process. The recipes are more daring, and there are techniques running through them that are there to improve your skills as a chef and cook, and give you a little bit more understanding about the mystery of food. It’s about stepping out of your working life and preparing food with a sense of occasion.
Cured Salmon with Buttermilk, Bergamot and Kohlrabi
Bergamot is an Italian citrus fruit that comes into season at the end of autumn. It has a wonderful perfume, and tastes like a cross between a lime, grapefruit and lychee. The zest and juice makes for something a little different. If they are not available, a lime will work just as well. Kohlrabi is a rather underrated vegetable which lends a delicious freshness and crunch to any dish. The salmon needs to cure for 8 hours for the best flavour, so organisation is key with this dish!
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SERVES: 4 AS A STARTER | PREP TIME: 20 MINUTES, PLUS CURING AND STRAINING
1 bunch of dill, finely chopped
finely grated zest of 1 lemon
50g rock salt
25g demerara sugar
8 juniper berries, crushed
1 piece of salmon fillet, skinless and pin-boned (about 350g)
150g buttermilk
finely grated zest and juice of 1 small (or ½ large) bergamot
2 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp honey
½ tsp creamed horseradish
2 kohlrabi, peeled and thinly sliced