Marcus Everyday
Page 20
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SERVES: 4 | PREP TIME: 30 MINUTES | COOKING TIME: ABOUT 5 HOURS
2 tbsp vegetable oil
4 feather blade steaks (about 200g each)
1 onion, halved
4 garlic cloves, lightly bashed
2 carrots, halved crossways
1 leek, white part only, halved crossways
1 bunch of thyme
2 bay leaves
4 star anise
6 white peppercorns
2 tbsp tomato purée
300ml port
1½ litres good-quality beef stock
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE POTATO, ONION AND HORSERADISH GRATIN
2 tbsp vegetable oil
100g butter, melted
3 onions, thinly sliced
4 large King Edward or Maris Piper potatoes (about 900g), peeled and cut into 3mm-thick slices
4 tbsp horseradish sauce
Preheat the oven to 140°C/120°C fan/gas 1.
Start with the feather blade steaks. Heat the oil in a large, wide ovenproof saucepan or casserole dish over medium heat. Once hot, season the feather blade steaks with salt, then brown them, in batches, for about 5 minutes per batch, turning them halfway through. Transfer to a plate.
Add the onion, garlic, carrots, leek, half of the thyme, bay leaves, star anise and peppercorns to the pan or casserole dish and fry for 10–15 minutes until all the vegetables are lightly caramelised. Add the tomato purée and port and simmer for 15 minutes until the port has reduced to a syrup, then add 1.2 litres of the beef stock and bring to a very gentle simmer. Return the steaks and their resting juices to the pan, cover and carefully place in the oven to cook for 3 hours.
During the last hour, start preparing the gratin. Heat the vegetable oil and 25g of the melted butter in a large frying pan over medium heat. When hot, add the sliced onions and season well with salt and pepper. Cook for about 30 minutes, until golden, stirring frequently. While the onions are cooking, put the remaining 300ml beef stock and a quarter of the remaining thyme from above in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Cook for 2 minutes, then turn off the heat and leave to steep for 10 minutes before straining into a clean pan. Keep warm.
When the steaks are done, carefully remove them from the pan. Turn up the oven temperature to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Strain the sauce from the steak pan into a clean pan and bring to a rapid boil. Reduce the sauce by half. Place the steaks back into the casserole dish and cover with a lid to keep warm while the sauce is reducing. Check the seasoning.
Place the potato slices for the gratin in a large bowl. Pick the leaves of the remaining thyme and add them to the potatoes. Add the remaining 75g of melted butter and season well. Mix with your hands to combine.
When the onions are ready, stir in the horseradish sauce. Layer one third of the potatoes in an ovenproof baking dish (about 20cm square). Top with half of the onions and one third of the thyme-infused beef stock. Repeat. Finish the gratin with the last of the potatoes and stock. Cover with foil and bake in the oven for 45 minutes. Remove the foil and bake for a further 25–30 minutes until golden.
To serve, pour the reduced sauce over the steaks in the casserole dish and cover with a lid. Bring to a simmer over low heat. Serve the warm steaks with the sauce and the gratin and wilted seasonal greens.
MARCUS’ TIP:
Braised meats are perfect comfort food in the colder months. Meats with a higher fat content, such as pork belly or lamb breast. will result in a richer texture. Braised meats also freeze very well, so it’s worth cooking a little extra to enjoy for a quick supper when you are tighter on prep time.
TARTS
Whether you make one large one or several individual ones, tarts are the perfect make-ahead dessert to end a dinner party. Here are two delicious recipes to try.
Milk Chocolate, Raspberry and Thyme Tart
My favourite chocolate is milk, especially when it is cold from the fridge! This dessert is a rich and decadent dish, and very delicious. The raspberry and thyme cut through the sweetness of the chocolate and add something a little different. I suggest serving this with a thick crème fraîche, as it adds a creamy acidity which complements the tart very well.
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SERVES: 8 | PREP TIME: 30 MINUTES, PLUS CHILLING AND COOLING | COOKING TIME: 1¼ HOURS
FOR THE PASTRY
140g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
pinch of sea salt
90g cold butter, cubed
40g caster sugar
1 egg, beaten, plus 1 egg yolk
FOR THE CHOCOLATE, RASPBERRY AND THYME FILLING
300ml double cream
100ml milk
½ bunch of thyme
400g milk chocolate, broken into pieces or roughly chopped
3 eggs
10g freeze-dried raspberry pieces
1 tsp cocoa powder, to serve
To make the pastry, rub together the flour, sea salt and cold butter in a bowl until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs (or blitz in a food processor). Stir in the sugar and gradually add the beaten egg to form a soft, pliable dough (you might not need all the egg). Gently form the pastry into a ball, flatten it, then wrap it in clingfilm and chill for 30 minutes.
Dust a work surface lightly with flour, unwrap the pastry and roll it out to a 4mm-thick circle. Use it to line a 21–2cm, high-sided, loose-bottomed tart tin, leaving a little excess pastry to hang over the edges. Return to the fridge for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7.
Line the pastry case with baking parchment and fill with baking beans. Sit the tart case on a baking sheet and bake in the oven for 10 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 180°C/160°C fan/gas 4 and bake the tart case for a further 15 minutes, until it starts to turn golden and becomes firm. Remove the baking beans and parchment, brush with the egg yolk and return the case to the oven for a further 5 minutes, until evenly golden.
While the tart case is baking, start making the filling. Put the double cream, milk and thyme in a medium saucepan, bring to a simmer and let it simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover and set aside to infuse for 20 minutes. Strain into a clean saucepan, discarding the thyme and bring back to a simmer.
Place the chocolate in a heatproof bowl and pour the hot cream and milk over the top. Cover and leave to sit for 5 minutes. Add the eggs and, using a stick blender, mix until well combined. Pass through a fine sieve into a jug.
Reduce the oven temperature to 140°C/120°C fan/gas 1. Remove the oven tray slightly from the oven. With the tart case in the oven, pour the chocolate mix into the shell. Sprinkle the raspberry pieces on top and, using a spoon, swirl to distribute evenly.
Bake the tart for 40–45 minutes until there is just a slight wobble in the middle. Carefully remove from the oven and leave to cool. When cool enough to handle, trim away the excess pastry with a sharp knife, and when fully cool remove the tart from the tin.
To serve, dust with the cocoa powder and slice using a hot knife.
Fig and Hazelnut Tarts with Smoky Crème Fraîche
These tarts are a variation on a type of Bakewell tart, but using hazelnuts and figs. They are glazed with smoky, rich, black lapsang souchong tea, which is also used to flavour the crème fraîche. This is a slightly more savoury pudding, so a great finish to a lighter meal.
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MAKES: 4 SMALL TARTS, OR 1 MEDIUM TART | PREP TIME: 30 MINUTES, PLUS CHILLING AND COOLING | COOKING TIME: UP TO 1 HOUR 10 MINUTES
FOR THE PASTRY
130g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
pinch of sea salt
85g cold butter, cubed
35g caster sugar
1 egg yolk
FOR THE HAZELNUT FRANGIPANE
100g caster sugar
100g soft butter
2 eggs
pinch of sea salt
100g ground hazelnuts
5 tsp fig jam or apricot jam
> 6 large or 8 small ripe figs, each sliced into 8
FOR THE GLAZE AND CREAM
2 tsp lapsang souchong tea leaves or 1 tea bag
2 tbsp Frangelico
80g crème fraîche
To make the pastry, rub together the flour, salt, cold butter and sugar in a bowl (or blitz in a food processor) until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Add the egg yolk and mix to form a soft, pliable dough. Wrap the dough in clingfilm and chill for 30 minutes.
Dust a work surface lightly with flour, unwrap the pastry and roll it out to 3mm thickness, then use it to line 4 × 10cm loose-bottomed tart tins, or 1 × 20cm loose-bottomed tart tin, leaving a little excess pastry to hang over the edges. Return the lined tin(s) to the fridge for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7.
Line the pastry case(s) with baking parchment and fill with baking beans. Sit the tart case(s) on a baking sheet and bake for 5 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 190°C/170°C fan/gas 5 and bake the tart case(s) for a further 10 minutes, until they start to turn golden. Remove the baking beans and parchment, and return the case to the oven for a further 5 minutes, until evenly golden. Remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly. When cool enough to handle, trim away the excess pastry with a sharp knife.
To make the frangipane, beat together the sugar and butter in a bowl until light and creamy. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Finally, mix in the pinch of salt and hazelnuts. Spread 1 teaspoon (or 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon if making a large tart) of the jam on the bottom of each pastry case followed by the frangipane, then arrange the sliced figs on top, in a circular formation, slightly overlapping, to cover the whole tart. Bake the small tarts for 20–25 minutes or the medium tart for 50–60 minutes, until deep golden and the frangipane has just set in the centre. If the medium tart starts to brown before the cooking time, cover it loosely with foil for the remaining time. Remove from the oven and leave to cool on a wire rack for at least 15 minutes.
While the tart(s) cool, bring 100ml water to the boil then add the tea leaves or tea bag. Remove from the heat and allow to infuse for 6 minutes then strain. Place three quarters of the liquid into a small clean saucepan, bring to the boil and reduce by half, then place in the fridge to cool.
Mix the remaining quarter of tea with the remaining teaspoon of jam and 1 tablespoon of Frangelico in a small bowl. Liberally brush the top of the tart(s) with this syrup (you might have some left over). Leave to cool a little in the tins before removing and serving.
Place the crème fraîche in a bowl and add the cooled tea and remaining Frangelico. Whisk together until slightly stiff. Serve with the tarts.
MARCUS’ TIP:
Pastry can be a fickle thing to make and roll but the key is ensuring you rest it long enough in between each step – making, rolling, trimming – and keep it cool enough. If you are trying to roll pastry in a hot kitchen, roll it bit by bit, putting it back in the fridge frequently to cool and firm up.
Burnt Honey Parfait with White Chocolate and Apricot
I had an excess of honey this year from the hives on the farm so this was a delicious way to use some of it. Caramelising the honey reduces the sweetness and adds a more savoury, smoky flavour, without sacrificing its fragrance. This dish is a perfect summer pudding, when apricots are at their best.
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SERVES: 4 | PREP TIME: 25 MINUTES, PLUS CHILLING AND COOLING | COOKING TIME: ABOUT 25 MINUTES
50g dried apricots, sliced
3 tbsp honey
2 large ripe apricots
25ml apricot liqueur, peach schnapps or amaretto
FOR THE PARFAIT
150g honey
2 leaves of gelatine
4 egg yolks
300ml double cream
100g white chocolate, broken into pieces
Put the honey for the parfait in a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Meanwhile, soak the gelatine in a shallow bowl of cold water for 5 minutes to soften, and line a 1-litre square or rectangular plastic container with baking parchment.
Put the egg yolks in a heatproof bowl and set the bowl over a pan of gently simmering water (making sure the bowl does not touch the water). When the honey has turned a dark golden colour – this will take 5–7 minutes – pour it over the yolks and beat with an electric whisk for 7–9 minutes until you have a really thick and creamy mixture that holds ribbon shapes when the whisk is lifted. Squeeze the water from the gelatine and drop one sheet at a time into the mixture, whisking as it dissolves.
Remove the bowl from the heat and continue to whisk for up to 10 minutes until the mixture has cooled.
Whisk the double cream in a bowl until it forms soft peaks. Fold the whipped cream into the egg mixture until smooth. Transfer to the lined container and put in the freezer for at least 3 hours.
Take the parfait out of the freezer and remove it from the container, peeling the baking parchment off. Cut the parfait into 4 even rectangles and place these back in the freezer.
Cut 4 rectangles of baking parchment that will fit around each parfait, with a 1cm overhang on the shortest side.
Melt the white chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a pan of gently simmering water. Lay each parchment rectangle on your bench and cover them in the melted white chocolate. Take one parfait at a time and place at one end of the chocolate. Using a knife or your hands, gently roll the parfait up in the parchment, as tight as you can, then place in the freezer immediately.
Place the dried apricots in a small saucepan and cover with hot water. Place over the heat and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly, then drain. Put the apricots in a blender with 2 tablespoons of the honey and blitz until smooth, adding a tablespoon of water if needed to loosen the purée. Pass through a fine sieve.
Cut the fresh, ripe apricots in half and remove the stones. Cut each half into 4 segments. Place in a shallow dish and cover with 1 tablespoon of honey and the liqueur.
To serve, spoon the dried apricot purée onto each plate. Take the parfaits out of the freezer, remove the parchment and place one on each plate. Finish by placing the apricot segments on and around the parfaits.
Pear and Star Anise Tarte Tatin with Buttermilk Ice Cream
This is one of the best desserts to come out of France. Whether it’s made with pear, apple or banana, a tarte Tatin just cannot be beaten. It’s got to be oozing with fruit, oozing with caramel, it’s got to be piping hot and it’s got to have crunchy puff pastry. It takes some practice, but is very, very satisfying when you get it right. For this recipe, I suggest using Conference pears, as they are a little firmer and drier than other varieties – even so, I recommend drying them out for 3 days.
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SERVES: 4–6 | PREP TIME: 25 MINUTES, PLUS FREEZING | COOKING TIME: ABOUT 1 HOUR
FOR THE TARTE TATIN
5–6 large or 8 small Conference pears
100g cold butter
1 × 320g sheet of ready-rolled all-butter puff pastry
100g caster sugar
2 star anise
FOR THE BUTTERMILK ICE CREAM
280ml cultured buttermilk
50ml milk
280ml double cream
2 tbsp runny honey
200g condensed milk
Peel, quarter and core the pears and leave them in the fridge for 3 days, so they dry out a little.
Make the ice cream before baking the tarte tatin so it can freeze while you bake. Put the buttermilk, milk, double cream, honey and condensed milk in a large bowl. Blend using a stick blender until smooth. Strain the mix through a fine sieve into a metal or plastic freezerproof container. Cover and freeze for about 1½ hours, until the base and sides are starting to freeze. Remove from the freezer and vigorously stir with a balloon whisk (or an electric whisk) until smooth. Refreeze, then repeat 3 or 4 more times at hourly intervals so that you end up with a smooth, creamy ice cream. If you have an ice-cream machine, follo
w the manufacturer’s instructions and you should have softly frozen ice cream within about 20 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 190°C/170°C fan/gas 5. Remove the butter from the fridge to allow it to soften slightly. Unroll the puff pastry sheet and cut it into a 24cm diameter circle (the same size or a little larger than the top diameter of the frying pan you use in the next step). Place back on its baking parchment and refrigerate.
Squash the slightly softened butter into a 20cm diameter (at the base) ovenproof pan. Ensure there is an even layer on the base then add the sugar and swirl the pan to distribute evenly.
Grate the star anise into the sugar. Place the first piece of pear into the sugared butter, with the base at the edge of the pan, tip pointing towards the middle, then lay the rest of the pear pieces in the pan, covering each other like fallen dominoes, placing them around the outer part of pan.
Place the pan over medium-high heat for about 10 minutes, until the butter and sugar begin to bubble and a golden caramel begins to form, then remove the pastry from the fridge and place it on top of the pears. Bake in the oven for about 45 minutes, until the pastry is cooked through and golden. Remove from the oven and allow to rest for 5–7 minutes before placing a plate on top of the pan then flipping the entire pan over, whereby the tarte tatin should slip gracefully onto the plate, ready to be sliced. Serve with the buttermilk ice cream.