Lonely Planet China
Page 8
Regions at a Glance
Chóngqìng
A unique city with a unique location, hilly Chóngqìng hugs cliffs overlooking the Yangzi, bursts with old-China energy, offers some fascinating day trips and is home to hotpot – the spiciest dish on the planet.
Regions at a Glance
Xīnjiāng
Bazaars, kebabs and camels are just a few of the icons that hint at your arrival in Central Asia. Ancient Silk Road towns include Turpan, Kashgar and Hotan; hikers gravitate to Kanas Lake and the Tiān Shān range.
Regions at a Glance
Gānsù
Gānsù is about diversity: colourful Tibetan regions in the southwest, Taklamakan dunes in the northwest, and a rich accumulation of Silk Road culture through the middle. Think deserts, mountains, Buddhist temples, camels, yaks, pilgrims and nomads.
Regions at a Glance
Níngxià
In the designated homeland of the Muslim Hui, visit the great tombs of the Xixia, nomadic rock art and the enormous Buddhas of Xūmí Shān. For camel trekking or sliding down sand dunes, head for the Tengger Desert.
Regions at a Glance
Inner Mongolia
Ride a famed Mongolian horse at a yurt camp near Hohhot and Hǎilā’ěr and sit down to a Mongolian hotpot. Further-flung western Inner Mongolia is a stunning landscape of towering sand dunes, desert lakes and ancient ruins.
Regions at a Glance
Qīnghǎi
Vast and remote, the best parts of Qīnghǎi – way up on the Tibetan plateau – are for those who like their travel rough. Need a hot shower and a coffee every morning? Go somewhere else.
Regions at a Glance
Tibet
The ‘Roof of the World’ is a stunningly beautiful high plateau of turquoise lakes, desert valleys and Himalayan peaks, dotted with monasteries, yaks and sacred Buddhist sites. Tight and ever-changing travel regulations can easily derail travel plans.
Běijīng
Sights
Courses
Activities
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
The Great Wall
Ming Tombs
Chuandxia
Wnping Town
Běijīng
%010 / Pop 19,612,368
Why Go?
Inextricably linked to past glories (and calamities) yet hurtling towards a power-charged future, Běijīng (北京), one of history’s great cities, is as complex as it is compelling.
Few places on earth can match the extraordinary historical panorama on display here – there are six Unesco World Heritage Sites in this city alone, just one less than the whole of Egypt. But this is also where China’s future is being shaped: Běijīng is the country’s political nerve centre, a business powerhouse and the heartbeat of China’s rapidly evolving cultural scene.
Yet for all its gusto, Běijīng dispenses with the persistent pace of Shànghǎi or Hong Kong. The remains of its historic hútòng (alleyways) still exude a unique village-within-a-city vibe, and it’s in these most charming of neighbourhoods that locals shift down a gear and find time to sit out front, play chess and watch the world go by.
When to Go
AApr–May & Oct–Nov Most pleasant.
ADec–Feb Dry and very cold.
AJun–Sep Peak season; very hot but rainstorms offer respite.
Best Places to Eat
A Dàlǐ Courtyard
A Běijīng Dàdǒng Roast Duck Restaurant
A In & Out
A Duck de Chine
A Bǎihé Vegetarian Restaurant
Best Places to Sleep
A Temple Hotel
A Qiánmén Hostel
A Courtyard 7
A Opposite House Hotel
A Aman at Summer Palace
Běijīng Highlights
1 Great Wall Hiking your way along an unrestored ‘wild’ section of China’s most famous icon.
2 Forbidden City Marvelling at the might and splendour of the world’s largest palace complex and home to 24 consecutive emperors of China.
3 Hútòng Losing yourself in the city’s warren of historic hútòng (alleyways), or following our walking tour.
4 Parks Wandering around Běijīng’s host of splendid royal parks, the highlight of which is the unmissable Temple of Heaven Park.
5 Summer Palace Enjoying a taste of imperial high life by wandering the sumptuous gardens, temples, pavilions and corridors.
6 Peking duck Scoffing the capital’s signature dish in the restaurants where it originated.
7 Drum & Bell Towers Climbing the magnificent Drum Tower or its charming counterpart, the Bell Tower, and looking over the grey-tiled rooftops in the alleys below.
8 Back-alley bars Downing a beer or catching some live music. Great Leap Brewing is a good place to start.
History
Although seeming to have presided over China since time immemorial, Běijīng (literally, 'Northern Capital') – positioned outside the central heartland of Chinese civilisation – only emerged as a cultural and political force that would shape the destiny of China with the 13th-century Mongol occupation of China.
Chinese historical sources identify the earliest settlements in these parts from 1045 BC. In later centuries Běijīng was successively occupied by foreign forces: it was established as an auxiliary capital under the Khitan, nomadic Mongolic people who formed China’s Liao dynasty (AD 907–1125). Later the Jurchens, Tungusic people originally from the Siberian region, turned the city into their Jin dynasty capital (1115–1234), during which time it was enclosed within fortified walls, accessed by eight gates.
But in 1215 the army of the great Mongol warrior Genghis Khan razed Běijīng, an event that was paradoxically to mark the city’s transformation into a powerful national capital. Apart from the first 53 years of the Ming dynasty and 21 years of Nationalist rule in the 20th century, it has enjoyed this status to the present day.
The city came to be called Dàdū (大都; Great Capital), also assuming the Mongol name Khanbalik (the Khan’s town). By 1279, under the rule of Kublai Khan, grandson of Genghis Khan, Dàdū was the capital of the largest empire the world has ever known.
The basic grid of present-day Běijīng was laid during the Ming dynasty, and Emperor Yongle (r 1403–24) is credited with being the true architect of the modern city. Much of Běijīng’s grandest architecture, such as the Forbidden City and the iconic Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests in the Temple of Heaven Park, date from his reign.
The Manchus, who invaded China in the 17th century to establish the Qing dynasty, essentially preserved Běijīng’s form. In the last 120 years of the Qing dynasty, though, Běijīng was subjected to power struggles, invasions and ensuing chaos. The list is long: the Anglo-French troops who in 1860 burnt the Old Summer Palace to the ground; the corrupt regime of Empress Dowager Cixi; the catastrophic Boxer Rebellion; the Japanese occupation of 1937; and the Nationalists. Each and every period left its undeniable mark, although the shape and symmetry of Běijīng was maintained.
Modern Běijīng came of age when, in January 1949, the People’s Liberation Army (PLA) entered the city. On 1 October of that year Mao Zedong proclaimed a ‘People’s Republic’ from the Gate of Heavenly Peace to an audience of some 500,000 citizens.
Like the emperors before them, the communists significantly altered the face of Běijīng. The páilóu (decorative archways) were destroyed and city blocks pulverised to widen major boulevards. From 1950 to 1952, the city’s magnificent outer walls were levelled in the interests of traffic circulation. Soviet experts and technicians poured in, bringing their own Stalinesque touches.
The past quarter of a century has transformed Běijīng into a modern city, with skyscrapers, shopping malls and an ever-expanding subway system. The once flat skyline is now crenellated with vast apartment blocks and office buildings. Recent years have also seen a convincing beautifica
tion of Běijīng, from a toneless and unkempt city to a greener, cleaner and more pleasant place, albeit one heavily affected by ever-increasing pollution.
Sadly, as Běijīng continues to evolve, it is slowly shedding its links to the past. More than 4 million sq metres of old hútòng courtyards have been demolished since 1990; around 40% of the total area of the city centre. Preservation campaign groups have their work cut out to save what’s left.
Forbidden City, Běijīng | BEN BRYANT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Language
Fewer people than you think speak English in Běijīng, and most people speak none at all (taxi drivers, for example). However, many people who work in the tourist industry do speak at least some English (particularly in hotels and hostels), so, as a tourist, you'll be able to get by without speaking Chinese. That said, you'll enrich your experience here hugely, and gain the respect of the locals, if you make a stab at learning some Chinese before you come.
Forbidden City
1Top Sights
1Forbidden CityB2
2Gate of Heavenly PeaceB6
3Jǐngshān ParkB1
4Workers Cultural PalaceC6
1Sights
5Belvedere of Pleasant SoundsC2
6Gate of Divine Prowess – exit onlyB1
7Gate of Supreme HarmonyB4
8Hall of Central HarmonyB3
9Hall of Clocks & WatchesC3
10Hall of Literary BrillianceC4
11Hall of Martial ValorB4
12Hall of Preserving HarmonyB3
13Hall of Supreme HarmonyB3
14Hall of UnionB2
15Imperial GardenB2
16Meridian GateB5
17Nine Dragon ScreenC3
18Palace of Earthly TranquillityB2
19Palace of Heavenly PurityB2
20Sacrificial HallC6
21Shùnzhēn GateB2
22Treasure GalleryC3
2Activities, Courses & Tours
23Black Sesame KitchenC1
5Eating
24Temple Restaurant BitesD4
6Drinking & Nightlife
25Oasis CafeD1
1Sights
Forbidden City & Dōngchéng Central
oForbidden CityHISTORIC SITE
(紫禁城, Zǐjìn Chéng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 8500 7114; www.dpm.org.cn; Nov-Mar ¥40, Apr-Oct ¥60, Clock Exhibition Hall ¥10, Hall of Jewellery ¥10, audio guide ¥40; h8.30am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar, last entry 1hr prior to closing, closed Mon Sep-Jun; bLine 1 to Tian'anmen West or Tian'anmen East)
Ringed by a 52m-wide moat at the very heart of Běijīng, the Forbidden City is China’s largest and best-preserved collection of ancient buildings, and the largest palace complex in the world. So called because it was off limits for 500 years, when it was steeped in stultifying ritual and Byzantine regal protocol, the other-worldly palace was the reclusive home to two dynasties of imperial rule until the Republic overthrew the last Qing emperor. It has been Unesco World Heritage–listed site since 1987.
The Forbidden City is prosaically known as the Palace Museum (故宫博物馆; Gùgōng Bówùguǎn), although most Chinese people simply call it Gù Gōng (故宫; Ancient Palace). 'Forbidden City' is an approximation of the Chinese 紫禁城 (Zǐjìn Chéng), a more poetic moniker that also references the colour purple and the cosmically significant North Star, the ‘celestial seat’ of the emperor.
In former ages the price for uninvited admission was instant execution, although mere mortals wouldn't have even got close because the Imperial City enclosing the Forbidden City with yet another set of huge walls was also off limits to ordinary citizens. These days ¥40 or ¥60 will do. Allow yourself the best part of a day for exploration or several trips if you’re an enthusiast.
There are official guides from ¥200 to ¥400 depending on how much you want to cover (inclusive for up to five people), but the automatically activated audio tours are cheaper (¥40; more than 40 languages) and more reliable. Restaurants, a cafe, toilets and even ATMs can be found within the palace grounds. Wheelchairs (¥500 deposit) are free to use, as are pushchairs/strollers (¥300 deposit).
Entrance
Tourists must enter through the Meridian Gate (午门; Wǔ Mén MAP GOOGLE MAP ), a massive U-shaped portal at the south end of the complex, which in former times was reserved for the use of the emperor. Gongs and bells would sound imperial comings and goings, while lesser mortals used lesser gates: the military used the west gate, civilians the east gate and servants the north gate. The emperor also reviewed his armies from here, passed judgement on prisoners, announced the new year’s calendar and oversaw the flogging of troublesome ministers. Up top is the Meridian Gate Gallery, which hosts temporary cultural exhibitions for both traditional Chinese arts and from abroad.
Through the Meridian Gate, you enter an enormous courtyard, and cross the Golden Stream (金水; Jīn Shuǐ) – shaped to resemble a Tartar bow and spanned by five marble bridges – on your way to the magnificent Gate of Supreme Harmony (太和门; Tàihé Mén MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Forbidden City). This courtyard could hold an imperial audience of 100,000 people. For an idea of the size of the restoration challenge, note how the crumbling courtyard stones are stuffed with dry weeds, especially on the periphery.
First Side Galleries
Before you pass through the Gate of Supreme Harmony to reach the Forbidden City’s star attractions, veer off to the east and west of the huge courtyard to visit the Calligraphy and Painting Gallery inside the Hall of Martial Valor (武英殿; Wǔ Yīng Diàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Forbidden City) and the particularly good Ceramics Gallery, housed inside the creaking Hall of Literary Glory (文化殿; Wén Huà Diàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Forbidden City).
Three Great Halls
Raised on a three-tier marble terrace with balustrades are the Three Great Halls, the glorious heart of the Forbidden City. The recently restored Hall of Supreme Harmony (太和殿; Tàihé Diàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Forbidden City) is the most important and largest structure in the Forbidden City. Built in the 15th century and restored in the 17th century, it was used for ceremonial occasions, such as the emperor’s birthday, the nomination of military leaders and coronations. Inside the Hall of Supreme Harmony is a richly decorated Dragon Throne (龙椅; Lóngyǐ), from which the emperor would preside over trembling officials. The entire court had to touch the floor nine times with their foreheads (the custom known as kowtowing) in the emperor’s presence. At the back of the throne is a carved Xumishan, the Buddhist paradise, signifying the throne’s supremacy.
Behind the Hall of Supreme Harmony is the smaller Hall of Middle Harmony (中和殿; Zhōnghé Diàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Forbidden City), which was used as the emperor’s transit lounge. Here he would make last-minute preparations, rehearse speeches and receive close ministers. On display are two Qing dynasty sedan chairs, the emperor’s mode of transport around the Forbidden City. The last of the Qing emperors, Puyi, used a bicycle and altered a few features of the palace grounds to make it easier to get around.
The third of the Great Halls is the Hall of Preserving Harmony (保和殿; Bǎohé Diàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Forbiddem City), used for banquets and later for imperial examinations. The hall has no support pillars. To its rear is a 250-tonne marble imperial carriageway carved with dragons and clouds, which was transported into Běijīng on an ice path. The emperor used to be carried over this carriageway in his sedan chair as he ascended or descended the terrace. The outer housing surrounding the Three Great Halls was used for storing gold, silver, silks, carpets and other treasures.
A string of side halls on the eastern and western flanks of the Three Great Halls usually, but not always, house a series of excellent exhibitions, ranging from scientific instruments and articles of daily use to objects presented to the emperor by visiting dignitaries. One contains an interesting diorama of the whole complex.
Lesser Central Halls
The basic configuration of the Three Great Halls is echoed by the next group of buildings. Smaller in scale, these build
ings were more important in terms of real power, which in China traditionally lies at the back door.
The first structure is the Palace of Heavenly Purity (乾清宫; Qiánqīng Gōng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Forbidden City), a residence of Ming and early Qing emperors, and later an audience hall for receiving foreign envoys and high officials.
Immediately behind it is the Hall of Union (交泰殿; Jiāotài Diàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Forbidden City), which contains a clepsydra – a water clock made in 1745 with five bronze vessels and a calibrated scale. There’s also a mechanical clock built in 1797 and a collection of imperial jade seals on display. The Palace of Earthly Tranquillity (坤宁宫; Kūnníng Gōng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Forbidden City) was the imperial couple’s bridal chamber and the centre of operations for the palace harem.
Imperial Garden
At the northern end of the Forbidden City is the Imperial Garden (御花园; Yù Huāyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Forbidden City), a classical Chinese garden with 7000 sq metres of fine landscaping, including rockeries, walkways, pavilions and ancient cypresses. Before you reach the Gate of Divine Prowess (神武们; Shénwǔ Mén MAP GOOGLE MAP ), the Forbidden City’s north exit, and Shùnzhēn Gate (顺贞门; Shùnzhēn Mén MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Forbidden City), which leads to it, note the pair of bronze elephants whose front knees bend in an anatomically impossible fashion, signifying the power of the emperor.