Lonely Planet China

by Lonely Planet

  Southwest of the Azure Clouds Temple is the Tibetan-style Temple of Brilliance (Zhāo Miào), and not far away is a glazed-tile pagoda. Both survived visits by foreign troops intent on sacking the area in 1860, and then in 1900.

  There are dozens of restaurants and snack stalls on the approach road to the north gate of the park, making this your best bet for lunch out of any of the sights in this part of the city.

  At the time of writing it was expected that sometime in the future the subway will extend here via the Summer Palace and Botanic Gardens.

  CCourses

  oBlack Sesame KitchenCOOKING

  (黑芝麻厨房, Hēi Zhīma Chúfáng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %136 9147 4408; www.blacksesamekitchen.com; 28 Zhong Lao Hutong, 中老胡同28号 hcooking classes 11am Wed & Sun, dinner 7pm Tue & Fri; bLines 6, 8 to Nanluoguxiang, exit A)

  Runs popular cooking classes with a variety of recipes from across China. Booking is essential; walk-in guests are not encouraged as this is a residential courtyard. You can also eat here at one of its communal dinners (set menu ¥300 per person, including wine and beer) – it gets rave reviews – but again you must book.

  oThe HutongCOOKING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %159 0104 6127; www.thehutong.com; 1 Jiudaowan Zhongxiang Hutong, off Shique Hutong, 北新桥石雀胡同九道弯中巷胡同1号 classes for members/non-members ¥260/300; h9.30am-10pm; bLine 5 to Beixinqiao, exit C)

  Down a maze of narrow alleys, the Hutong is a highly recommended Chinese-culture centre, run by a group of extremely knowledgable locals and expats. Classes are held in a peaceful converted courtyard, and focus on cooking and guided tours. See its website for the schedule.

  Mílún Kungfu SchoolMARTIAL ARTS

  (弥纶传统武术学校, Mílún Chuántǒng Wǔshù Xuéxiào MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %138 1170 6568; www.kungfuinchina.com; 36 Ganyu Hutong, 甘雨胡同36号 per class ¥150, 10-class card ¥1100; h7-8.30pm Mon & Wed; bLine 5 to Dengshikou, exit A)

  Runs classes in various forms of traditional Chinese martial arts (from Shàolín kung fu to kickboxing) in a historic courtyard near Wángfǔjǐng shopping district. In summer, typically in August, classes are held in Rìtán Park. Has set-time drop-in classes, but can arrange individual schedules too. Instruction is in Chinese, but with an English translator. Taichi classes are also available.

  China Culture CenterCULTURAL PROGRAMS

  (Kent Center; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %weekdays 010 6432 9341, weekends 010 8420 0671; www.chinaculturecenter.org; Victoria Gardens D4, Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu, 朝阳公园西路, 维多利亚花园D4 bLine 14 to Zaoying or Line 10 to Tuanjiehu, exit C)

  Offers a range of cultural programs taught in English and aimed squarely at foreign visitors and expats. The club also conducts popular tours around Běijīng and expeditions to other parts of China.

  Culture YardLANGUAGE

  (天井越洋, Tiānjǐng Yuèyáng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 8404 4166; www.cultureyard.net; 10 Shique Hutong, 石雀胡同10号 h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat; bLine 5 to Beixinqiao, exit C)

  Tucked away down a hútòng, this cultural centre focuses on Chinese classes. Its main program is a six-week course (¥4500), but you can tailor courses to suit your needs. Its 'Survival Chinese' course is ideal for tourists.

  2Activities

  oBike BěijīngCYCLING

  (康多自行车租赁, Kāngduō Zìxíngchē Zūlìn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6526 5857; www.bikebeijing.com; 81 Beiheyan Dajie, 北河沿大街81号 h8am-8pm; bLines 6, 8 to Nanluoguxiang, exit B, or Line 5 to Zhangzizhonglu, exit D)

  Rents a range of good-quality bikes, offering mountain bikes (¥200), road bikes (¥400) and ordinary city bikes (¥100); helmets inclusive. It also runs popular guided bike tours around the city (half-day tours from ¥300 to ¥400 per person, depending on group size) and beyond, including bike-and-hike trips to the Great Wall (¥1800 per person, including hotel pick-up and lunch).

  Koryo ToursTRAVEL AGENCY

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %Běijīng 010 6416 7544; www.koryogroup.com; 27 Beisanlitun Nan; bLine 2 to Dongsi Shitiao, exit C, or Line 10 to Tuanjiehu, exit A)

  Long-established and reputable outfit that organises highly rated tours to North Korea.

  Běijīng HikersHIKING

  (%010 6432 2786; www.beijinghikers.com; Galaxy Building, bldg A, room 4012, 10 Jiuxianqiao Zhonglu, 星科大厦A座4012室, 酒仙桥中路10号 per person from ¥380; h9am-6pm)

  Long-established outfit that organises some breathtaking hikes out of town on weekends, with a focus on the Great Wall. It can also arrange private trips.

  Dragonfly Therapeutic RetreatMASSAGE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 8529 6331; www.dragonfly.net.cn; Kerry Centre, 1 Guanghua Lu, 嘉里中心光华路1号 1hr massage from ¥188; h10am-11pm; bLine 10 to Jintaixizhao, exit A)

  Swish, professional operation located in the basement of the Kerry Centre.

  HúTòNG TOURS

  Exploring Běijīng’s hútòng is an unmissable experience. Go on a walking or cycling tour and delve deep into this alternately ramshackle and genteel, but always magical, world. Best of all, just wander off the main roads in the centre of Běijīng into the alleyways that riddle the town within the 2nd Ring Rd. Getting lost is part of the fun of exploring the hútòng, and you don't have to worry about finding your way back because you’ll never be far from a main road.

  Good places to plunge into are the alleys to the west of Hòuhǎi Lakes, the area around Nanluogu Xiang, the roads branching west off Chaoyangmen Beixiaojie and Chaoyangmen Nanxiaojie, east of Wangfujing Dajie, and the lanes southwest of Tiān'ānmén Sq.

  Hiring a bike is by far the best way to explore this historic world. But if you want to join a tour, the China Culture Center runs regular tours, or can arrange personalised tours. Call for further details, or check the website. Bike Běijīng also does guided hútòng tours. Many hotels run tours of the hútòng, or will point you in the direction of someone who does. Alternatively, any number of pedicab touts infest the roads around Hòuhǎi Lakes, offering 45-minute or one-hour tours. Such tours typically cost ¥60 to ¥120 per person. If you want an English-speaking rickshaw rider, the Běijīng Tourist Information Centre opposite the north gate of Běihǎi Park can find you one.

  4Sleeping

  Hostels are best value, with traveller-friendly facilities and staff with good English-language skills. Courtyard hotels are wonderfully atmospheric, and plant you right in the thick of the hútòng action, but they lack the facilities (pool, gym etc) of top-end hotels in similar price brackets.

  You can book rooms directly through hotel websites, or over the phone.

  Forbidden City & Dōngchéng Central

  oCity Walls CourtyardHOSTEL$

  (城墙旅舍, Chéngqiáng Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6402 7805; www.beijingcitywalls.com; 57 Nianzi Hutong, 碾子胡同57号 dm/s/tw ¥100/260/420; aiW; bLines 6, 8 to Nanluoguxiang, exit A)

  Hidden among a maze of hútòng is this attractive choice within a fabulous location – hidden away from more touristy areas in one of the city’s most historic neighbourhoods. Private rooms and dorms all have private bathrooms; spacious four-bed dorms are especially great value. The main selling point is its traditional courtyard decorated with eclectic knick-knacks, plants and couches to enjoy cheap large beers (¥4), ground coffee (¥10) and meals.

  It's led by the personable Rick, along with other friendly, helpful staff. There are bikes for rent, and tickets for tours and cultural shows.

  To get here, from Jingshan Houjie, look for the hútòng opening just east of Jǐngshān Table Tennis Park. Walk up the hútòng and follow it around to the right and then left; the hostel is on the left-hand side.

  Dragon King HostelHOSTEL$

  (万里路青年酒店东四九条店, Wànlǐlù Qīngnián Jiǔdiàn Dōngsì Jiǔtiáo Diàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 8400 2660; www.9dragons.hostel.com; 78 Dongsi Jiutiao, 东四九条78号 dm ¥80-100, d ¥300; aW; bLine 5 to Zhangzizhonglu, exit C)

  Down a hútòng featuring some rowdy local restauran
ts, Dragon King is classic Běijīng with its historic building festooned with Chinese lanterns. There are rough edges, but the good outweighs the bad, especially its central location close to all the action. Dorm beds have curtains for privacy, while private rooms have plenty of space. Its cosy backpacker-style pub does cheap beer and food.

  Běijīng Feel InnHOSTEL$

  (非凡客栈, Fēifán Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6528 7418, 139 1040 9166; www.beijingfeelinn.com; 2 Ciqiku Hutong, off Nanheyan Dajie, 南河沿大街，磁器库胡同2号 dm ¥50-60, r from ¥268; aiW; bLine 1 to Tian'anmen East, exit A)

  A small, understated hostel with a hidden, backstreet location, Feel Inn is tucked away among the hútòng containing the little-known Pǔdù Temple, and yet is just a short walk from big-hitters such as the Forbidden City, Tiān'ānmén Sq and the shops on Wangfujing Dajie. Has simple, clean rooms, a small bar-restaurant and wi-fi throughout. It rents bikes for ¥30 per day.

  oJǐngshān Garden HotelHUTONG HOTEL$$

  (景山花园酒店, Jǐngshān Huāyuán Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 8404 7979; www.jingshangardenhotel.com; 68 Sanyanjing Hutong, off Jingshan Dongjie, 景山东街，三眼井胡同68号 r incl breakfast ¥550-650; aiW; bLines 6, 8 to Nanluoguxiang, exit A)

  This delightful, unfussy, two-storey guesthouse has bright, spacious rooms surrounding a large, peaceful, flower-filled courtyard. First-floor rooms are pricier, but larger and brighter than the ground-floor ones, and some have slight views of Jǐngshān Park from their bathrooms. It also has an upstairs Sìchuān restaurant.

  Walking down Sanyuanjing Hutong from the direction of Jǐngshān Park, turn right down the first alleyway, and the hotel is at the end.

  Húlú HotelHUTONG HOTEL$$

  (壶庐宾馆, Húlú Bīnguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6543 9229; www.thehuluhotel.com; 91 Yanyue Hutong, off Dongsi Nandajie, 东四南大街，演乐胡同91号 r ¥718-900; bLine 5 to Dengshikou, exit A, or Lines 5, 6 to Dongsi, exit C)

  Hulu's converted hútòng space is minimalist throughout, with cool grey-painted wood beams, slate-tiled bathrooms and a cleverly renovated courtyard that combines its old-Běijīng roots with a modern, comfortable design. The atmosphere is laid-back, and the young staff speak excellent English. There are three grades of room (size increases with price), all of which have large double beds – no twins.

  There's a homely cafe at reception that does breakfast, coffee and bar drinks. The small, leafy rooftop terrace is just the place to relax.

  oW BěijīngBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

  (北京长安街 W 酒店 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6515 8855; www.whotels.com/beijing; 2 Jianguomennan Jie, 建国门南大街2号 r from ¥2000; bLines 1, 2 to Jianguomen, exit B)

  The W is all about flashy installations that feel more nightclub than hotel. Rooms are full of gadgetry, from remote-control rotating sofas and touch-screen colour-adjustment wheels to spotlight projectors and automatic sliding curtains. They have circular stand-alone bath-tubs and large windows. A major downside, though, is its out-of-the-way location beside a big highway.

  There's a mosaic-floored swimming pool and gym with personal trainers. The X25 cocktail bar has regular DJs and live music. There's a choice of several restaurants, including the Kitchen Table with outdoor patio, open kitchen and herb garden, or Yen, which specialises in Peking duck.

  oTemple HotelHUTONG HOTEL$$$

  (东景缘, Dōngjǐng Yuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 8401 5680; www.thetemplehotel.com; 23 Shatan Beijie, off Wusi Dajie, 五四大街，沙滩北街23号 d/ste from ¥2000/4500; aW; bLines 6, 8 to Nanluoguxiang, exit B or Lines 5, 6 to Dongsi, exit E)

  Unrivalled by anything else on the Běijīng hotel scene, this unique heritage hotel forms part of a renovation project that was recognised by Unesco for its conservation efforts. A team spent five years renovating what was left of Zhīzhù Sì (智珠寺; Temple of Wisdom), a part-abandoned, 250-year-old Buddhist temple, and slowly transformed it into one of the most alluring places to stay in the capital.

  Drum Tower & Dōngchéng North

  oBěijīng Drum Tower International Youth HostelHOSTEL$

  (鼓韵青年旅舍, Gǔyùn Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 8401 6565; www.24hostel.com; 51 Jiugulou Dajie, 旧鼓楼大街 51号 dm/d from ¥88/288; aiW; bLines 2, 8 to Guloudajie, exit G)

  A large, dependable hostel, the Drum's point of difference is its capsule bunk beds (from ¥88), which are equipped with lockable doors. They offer complete privacy so it's a step up from the usual dorms, but their cramped interior won't suit claustrophobes. Private rooms, on the other hand, are massive and have plenty of natural light.

  There's a peaceful rooftop terrace with magnificent views over the Drum Tower, and a cool cafe downstairs.

  Nostalgia HotelHOTEL$

  (时光漫步怀旧主题酒店, Shíguāng Mànbù Huáijiù Zhǔtí Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6403 2288; www.nostalgiahotelbeijing.com; 46 Fangjia Hutong, 安定门内大街，方家胡同46号 r from ¥428; aiW; bLine 5 to Beixinqiao, exit A)

  A good-value option if you don't fancy staying in a youth hostel, this large, funky hotel is housed in a small arts zone on trendy Fangjia Hutong. Rooms live up to its name and are decorated with a Chinese retro theme and knick-knacks throughout. The bathrooms sparkle.

  Staff on reception speak English, and there's lift access. There's a breakfast room, but no restaurant. To find it, enter the small arts zone named after its address (46 Fangjia Hutong) and walk to the far left corner of the complex.

  Confucius International Youth HostelHOSTEL$

  (雍圣轩青年酒店, Yōngshèngxuān Qīngnián Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6402 2082; www.confucious.hostel.com; 38 Wudaoying Hutong, 雍和宫大街，五道营胡同38号 dm/s/d ¥80/180/238; bLines 2, 5 to Yonghegong-Lama Temple, exit D)

  One of the cheapest places that's open to foreigners in this area, Confucius is all about its awesome location along this ultra-hip strip. It has a handful of simple, no-frills rooms off a small, covered courtyard, but there's no restaurant, bar or place to hang out.

  Peking Youth HostelHOSTEL$

  (北平国际青年旅社, Běipíng Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 8403 9098, 010 6401 3961; www.peking.hostel.com; 113 Nanluogu Xiang, 南锣鼓巷113号 dm/tw from ¥180/500; aiW; bLines 6, 8 to Nanluoguxiang, exit E)

  Slick, colourful, but rather cramped rooms are located round the back of the flower-filled Peking Cafe, which opens out onto Nanluogu Xiang. Prices reflect the sought-after (though, these days, frenetic) location rather than the size or quality of the rooms.

  All the usual youth-hostel services are dished up, including bike hire and trips to the Great Wall. Enter via Yu'er Hutong.

  oOrchidCOURTYARD HOTEL$$

  (兰花宾馆, Lánhuā Bīnguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 5799 0806; www.theorchidbeijing.com; 65 Baochao Hutong, 鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同65号 d ¥805-1800; aiW; bLines 2, 8 to Guloudajie, exit F, or Line 8 to Shichahai, exit A2)

  Opened by a Canadian guy and a Tibetan girl, this place may lack the history of other courtyard hotels, but it’s been renovated into a beautiful space, with a peaceful courtyard and some rooftop seating with distant views of the Drum and Bell Towers. Rooms are doubles only, and are small, but are tastefully decorated and come with Apple TV home-entertainment systems, complimentary loan of mobile phones and bike rental.

  There are also self-contained apartments with cooking facilities, and it has the well-regarded Toast restaurant.

  It does Great Wall tours (from ¥1100 including lunch, admission and transport), and can organise taxis for city tours. Hard to spot, the Orchid is down an unnamed, shoulder-width alleyway opposite Mr Shi’s Dumplings.

  Yo-Yo HotelHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 5703 7655, 134 6636 4309; yanjiao@yoyozhu.com; 187 Andingmennei Dajie, 安定门内大街187号 r from ¥309; aW; bLine 2 to Andingmen)

  Stumbling distance from all of Beijing's coolest hútòng bars, and many major sights, this budget hotel is an excellent choice location-wise. It ha
s a Southeast Asia–backpacker-kinda vibe, so there are some rough edges, but it's comfortable with boutiquey touches, and there's a cafe-bar upstairs. No English.

  Courtyard 7HUTONG HOTEL$$$

  (四合院酒店, Sìhéyuàn Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6406 0777; www.courtyard7.com; 7 Qiangulouyuan Hutong, off Nanluogu Xiang, 鼓楼东大街南锣鼓巷前鼓楼苑胡同7号 r incl breakfast ¥900-1200; aW; bLines 6, 8 to Nanluoguxiang, exit E)

  Immaculate rooms, decorated in traditional Chinese furniture, face onto a series of different-sized, 400-year-old courtyards, which over the years have been home to government ministers, rich merchants and even an army general. Despite the historical narrative, rooms still come with modern comforts such as underfloor heating, wi-fi and cable TV. Standard rooms are less atmospheric so upgrade to the superior rooms surrounding the courtyard.