Lonely Planet China

by Lonely Planet

  Much effort has gone into restoring this formidable-looking bridge and on both sides the Wall continues its run up the steep, rocky hillsides. Heading left, you can quickly see where the Wall remains unrestored on the opposite side. Sadly, access to this area is blocked but the distant sight of crumbling stone watchtowers truly drives home the terrible isolation that must have been felt by the guardians of frontier regions such as this.

  No buses head to the Wall from Shānhǎiguān. A taxi costs around ¥35 one way; ask the drivers gathered outside the South Gate. A return trip will cost more like ¥80 to ¥100, including waiting time.

  Jīmíngyì 鸡鸣驿

  %0313 / Pop 1000

  The sleepy hamlet Jīmíngyì (鸡鸣驿) is a delightful surprise to find amid the scruffy northern Héběi countryside. This walled town, established during the Yuan dynasty (1206–1368), is China’s oldest surviving post station, a historic reminder of a system that endured for 2000 years and enabled the officials in the Forbidden City to keep in touch with their far-flung counterparts around China. Whipped by dust storms in the spring and with archaic, fading Mao-era slogans still visible on walls, Jīmíngyì sees few visitors and feels much further from the gleaming capital than the 140km distance would suggest.

  During the Ming and Qing dynasties, Jīmíngyì had considerably more bustle and wealth, as evidenced by its numerous surviving temples and town wall. Many of its courtyard houses remain, though in dilapidated condition.

  There's been a flurry of activity recently, with local government attempts to boosts Jīmíngyì's appeal as a tourist destination.

  1Sights

  Meandering along the warren of Jīmíngyì’s baked-mud walls and courtyard houses takes you past ancient stages and scattered temples, some of which contain Ming and Qing murals (not all are in good condition). Admission to the village costs ¥40.

  God of Wealth TempleTAOIST TEMPLE

  (财神庙, Cáishén Miào )

  Pop into this tiny edifice to pray for fabulous riches or to check out the fabulous Ming mural, uncovered in 2012. It depicts an ancient bank (票号; piàohào); if you look closely you'll also see five foreigners and a qílín (麒麟; a mythical Chinese animal) in the lower left-hand corner, on their way to China to do business.

  Jīmíngyì MuseumMUSEUM

  (鸡鸣驿博物馆, Jīmíngyì Bówùguǎn )

  Opened in 2015, this tiny museum near the East Gate contains a few photos, artefacts and the like. There's little English signage, though it's worth a peek. Admission is included with entry to the town.

  Temple of Eternal TranquilityBUDDHIST TEMPLE

  (永宁寺, Yǒngníng Sì ¥60)

  The largest and oldest temple in the area sits atop Cock's Crow Mountain (鸡鸣山; Jīmíng Shān), which overlooks the town to the northwest. It's still an active monastery and a large and lively festival is held here during April each year. It's only accessible from the town of Xià Huāyuán (下花园); figure on a 90-minute hike. You can also take a taxi up for ¥30.

  Jīmíngyì City WallsHISTORIC SITE

  (城墙, Chéng Qiáng )

  Ascend the East Gate or West Gate and circle the walls for fine views of the town, the surrounding fields and Cock's Crow Mountain (鸡鸣山; Jīmíng Shān), standing to the northwest.

  Tàishān TempleTAOIST TEMPLE

  (泰山行宫, Tàishān Xínggōng )

  This temple is dedicated to Bixia, the goddess of Tài Shān (泰山 www.taishangeopark.com; adult/student & senior Feb-Nov ¥127/60, Dec & Jan ¥102/50). The paintings here, Jīmíngyì's largest collection of Ming murals, depict the life of the goddess. They were whitewashed – some say for protection – during the Cultural Revolution. A professor from Qīnghuá University helped to uncover them; you can still see streaks of white in places.

  Temple of the God of LiteratureCONFUCIAN TEMPLE

  (文昌宫, Wénchāng Gōng )

  This simple Ming dynasty temple is dedicated to the god of literature, whom scholars called upon to help with the imperial exams. Like many Confucian temples, it also served as the local school.

  4Sleeping & Eating

  It's possible to visit Jīmíngyì as a day trip from Běijīng, but spending the night allows you time to enjoy the slower pace of rural life. Sleeping options are limited to nóngjiāyuàn (农家院; village guesthouses) on Yicheng Yijie (驿城一街), the road running between the East and West Gates. Expect to pay around ¥60 for a room.

  Village guesthouses are the only places serving food inside the city walls. Bear in mind they do eat donkey (驴肉; lǘròu) in these parts.

  Bǎilè KèzhànGUESTHOUSE$

  (百乐客栈 %137 8533 9336; rooms ¥60-80; W)

  Simple but clean restaurant and guesthouse with small, tidy rooms off the tiny courtyard out the back. Has a common shower room. The restaurant menu (mains ¥10 to ¥35) is in Chinese only. You'll find standard dishes such as zhájiàng miàn (炸酱面; pork and beanpaste noodles), xīhóngshì chǎojīdàn (西红柿炒鸡蛋; scrambled eggs and tomatoes) and suānlà tǔdòusī (酸辣土豆丝; shredded fried potato).

  It's located not far from the West Gate.

  8Getting There & Away

  Jīmíngyì can be reached from the small mining town of Xià Huāyuán (下花园), 5km away. The easiest way there is to hop on a train from Běijīng Main (¥23.50, three hours, 7.43am) or Běijīng West (¥21.50, 2¼ hours, 10.32am). From the train station, flag down a passing small bus to Shāchéng (沙城), which goes past Jīmíngyì (5 minutes, ¥3). Afternoon trains back to Běijīng leave at 3.55pm (for Běijīng Main) and 4.34pm (for Běijīng West).

  Taking a bus offers more flexibility than the train, though you'll want decent navigational/Chinese skills to find it. First, head to Zhuxinzhuang metro station at the end of line 8. Exit the station and walk 300m south to bus 899, which serves Xià Huāyuán (¥24; 2¼ hours; 5.30am to 5.30pm). From the Xià Huāyuán station, take a taxi into town (¥10) and flag down the Shāchéng bus, or simply taxi it all the way to Jīmíngyì – drivers start at ¥30, though you should be able to bargain down to ¥20. The last bus back to Běijīng leaves at 5pm.

  Liáoníng

  Dalian

  Around Dalian

  Dandong

  Shenyang

  Xingcheng

  Liáoníng

  Pop 43.9 million

  Why Go?

  History and hedonism run side by side in Liáoníng (辽宁). Walled Ming dynasty cities rub up against booming beach resorts, while imperial palaces sit in the centre of bustling modern cities. Nothing quite captures the fun and distinction, however, as much as seaside Dàlián, with its golden coastline and summer beer festival, and former battlegrounds where Russian and Japanese armies wrestled for control of the region in the early 20th century. In Dāndōng, regional tensions of recent history are causing some spine-tingling at the border with North Korea. The Yālù River here brings you within glimpsing distance of the hermit kingdom from a boat deck or halfway across a bridge.

  When to Go

  AMay & Jun Catch deals on a seaside hotel.

  AJun & Jul Enjoy fresh cherries, mulberries and blueberries at roadside stands everywhere.

  AJul & Aug Have fun at the Dàlián International Beer Festival.

  Best Places to Eat

  A Měijīn Hotpot

  A Tiāntiān Yúgǎng

  A Handu Restaurant

  Best Places to Sleep

  A Dàlián Noah's Ark Golden Beach Hostel

  A Aloft Dalian

  A UniLoft Hostel

  Liáoníng Highlights

  1 Dàlián Kicking back and enjoying the beaches, coastal walkways and beer festival.

  2 Tiger Mountain Great Wall Climbing the easternmost stretch of the Great Wall, near Dāndōng.

  3 Dāndōng Peering into North Korea on a Yālù River cruise, and experiencing the mix of Korean and Chinese culture.

  4 Tomb of Huang Taiji Exploring the tomb of the Qing dynasty founder, in Shěnyáng's mini Forbidd
en City.

  5 Lǚshùn Wandering the old battlefields, graves and prison of Lǚshùn, fought over by rival Japanese and Russian Empires.

  6 Xīngchéng Lazing on the beach and strolling the old walled city of historic, little-visited Xīngchéng.

  History

  The region formerly known as Manchuria, including the provinces of Liáoníng, Jílín and Hēilóngjiāng, plus parts of Inner Mongolia, is now called Dōngběi (the Northeast).

  The Manchurian warlords of this northern territory established the Qing dynasty, which ruled China from 1644 to 1911. From the late 1800s to the end of WWII, when Western powers were busy carving up pieces of China for themselves, Manchuria was occupied alternately by the Russians and the Japanese.

  Today there is a push to transform the flagging steel industry carried over from the 1950s into a tech hub.

  8Getting There & Around

  Shěnyáng and Dàlián have domestic and international airports. Dāndōng has an airport with infrequent domestic flights.

  Boats connect Dàlián with Shāndōng province and South Korea.

  Buses are a slower alternative to high-speed trains but can outpace regular trains.

  Rail lines criss-cross the region; fast D and G trains link Shěnyáng with cities south to Dàlián and Dāndōng; north to Harbin and Qíqíhā'ěr; and east to Chángchūn, Jílín City and Yánjí.

  Dàlián 大连

  %0411 / Pop 6.69 million

  Perched on the Liáodōng Peninsula and bordering the Yellow Sea, Dàlián (大连) is one of the most relaxed and liveable cities in the northeast, if not all of China. Tree-lined hilly streets with manageable traffic and fresh air, a surfeit of early 20th-century architecture and an impressive coastline, complete with swimming beaches, are just some of its charms. Toss in a decent restaurant-and-bar scene and serious shopping, and that frequent Dàlián epithet, the ‘Hong Kong of the North’, looks like more than just bluster.

  Dàlián is a fine place to unwind for a few days. But after lazing on the beaches and strolling along the southwest coastline, pay a visit to the historic port town of Lǚshùn. The old battlefields and cemeteries offer a rare first-hand glimpse into some of the north’s most turbulent days.

  Dàlián

  1Sights

  1Zhongshan SquareC2

  4Sleeping

  2Aloft DalianD2

  5Eating

  3Tianjin Jie Night MarketB2

  4Tiāntiān YúgǎngD1

  Transport

  5Bus to DāndōngB2

  6Bus to FerryB2

  7Bus to Fùjiāzhuāng BeachB2

  8Bus to LǚshùnA1

  9Bus to North Train StationA1

  10Bus to ShěnyángB2

  11Bus to ZhuānghéA1

  12Civil Aviation Administration of ChinaA3

  13Da-in FerryD1

  14Qīngníwā Qiáo Bus StopB3

  15Tourist Bus StopB2

  1Sights

  Xīnghǎi SquareSQUARE

  (星海广场, Xīnghǎi Guǎngchǎng GOOGLE MAP )F

  This square, which sports some gaudy architecture, is the site of Dàlián’s popular beer festival, and is a good place to people-watch, fly a kite, or just stroll about. Nearby is a small beach and amusement park.

  From the train station, take tram 201 (¥2; to its west terminus), or faster metro Line 2 (¥1; stop Xi'an 西安路), then tram 202 (¥2) three stops. Last return tram 11pm. A taxi is about ¥20.

  Fisherman’s WharfVILLAGE

  (渔人码头, Yúrén Mǎtóu GOOGLE MAP ; 66 Binhai Donglu, 滨海东路66号 )F

  This seaside community was built in the style of an American East Coast village from the early 20th century. It makes a great backdrop for photos, has a row of pleasant coffee and wine shops, and features a perfect replica of the 1853 German Bremen Port Lighthouse, built with bricks from razed local villages.

  Fùjiāzhuāng BeachBEACH

  (傅家庄海滩, Fùjiāzhuāng Hǎitān )

  Fùjiāzhuāng is a popular beach set in a deep bay. Junks float just offshore, small broken islands dot the horizon, and loads of families come here for no other reason than to have fun. Bus 5 leaves from Jiefang Lu (¥1, 20 to 30 minutes) and drops you off across from the beach.

  Jīnshí TānBEACH

  (金石滩, Golden Pebble Beach GOOGLE MAP )F

  The coast around Jīnshí Tān, 50km northeast of the city, has been turned into a domestic tourism mecca with a number of theme parks and rock formations commanding inflated entrance fees. The long pebbly beach itself is free and quite pretty, set in a wide bay with distant headlands.

  To get here take the light rail, known by the locals as Line 3 (轻轨三号线, Qīngguǐ Sānhàoxiàn), from the depot on the east side of Triumph Plaza, behind the Dàlián Train Station (¥8, 50 minutes) to its terminus 'Jin Shi Tan'. The ticket machine is Chinese only, but just select the most expensive ticket, then the number of tickets and insert your money. From the beach station it’s a 10-minute walk to the beach, or catch a hop-on/off tourist shuttle bus (¥20), which winds round the coast first before dropping you off at the beach. Tickets for the shuttle bus are from the visitor centre (open 8.30am to 5pm) to the right of the train station as you exit, sometimes with English-speaking staff if you need help.

  Zhongshan SquareHISTORIC BUILDING

  (中山广场, Zhōngshān Guǎngchǎng MAP GOOGLE MAP )

  This is Dàlián’s hub, a 223m-wide square with 10 lanes radiating out from a central roundabout designed by the Russians in 1889. With the exception of the Dalian Financial Building, all the other grand structures hail from the early 20th century when Dàlián was under the control of the Japanese. Styles range from art deco to French Renaissance.

  The Dàlián Bīnguǎn, a dignified hotel built in 1914 and called then the Dalian Yamato Hotel, appeared in the movie The Last Emperor.

  DON'T MISS

  SOUTHWEST COASTLINE

  Dàlián’s southwest coastline is the city’s most alluring natural destination. Dramatic headlands, deep bays and sandy beaches are the obvious attractions, but there are also parks, lighthouses and quaint villages, and the longest continuous boardwalk (reportedly at 20.9km) in the world joining them all.

  Start your exploration either by taking the tram from downtown to Xīnghǎi Sq, or a bus to Fùjiāzhuāng Beach.

  A very pleasant boardwalk (it's really a wooden walkway built alongside the main coastal road) joins Fùjiāzhuāng and Xīnghǎi Sq. Continue on the same walkway another 8km to the square at Lǎohǔtān. Statue fanatics who want to see a huge work of tigers in motion can pay the steep entrance fee of over ¥200 for this glitzy theme park, which is hard to recommend because of its use of performing dolphins and seals, a practice that some view as cruel. At Lǎohǔtān you can catch bus 30 (¥1) to Sanba or Zhongshan Sq in central Dàlián. You can also do the coastal route via taxi.

  Head on from Lǎohǔtān to Fisherman’s Wharf.

  zFestivals & Events

  Dàlián International Beer FestivalBEER

  (¥20, opening day ¥30; hJul-Aug)

  For 12 days every July into August, Dàlián stages its International Beer Festival, resembling Munich’s Oktoberfest. Beer companies from across China and around the world set up tents at the vast Xīnghǎi Sq, near the coast, and locals and visitors (usually about 300,000) flock to sample the brews, gorge on snacks from around China, listen to live music and generally make whoopee.

  Entrance tickets are a low ¥20 and there are typically 30 beer vendors offering over 400 brands for sampling.

  4Sleeping

  Reservations are highly recommended in the summer months, when prices may be 50% more than listed here. The area around the train station's north exit has a number of budget hotels, but it’s a noisy, frenetic place. Touts will find you if you do need a room: rates start at ¥100 a night. Better, quieter options are a few blocks southeast of the station.

  oUniLoft HostelHOSTEL$

  (大连联合庭院青旅酒店, Dàlián Liánhé Tíngyu
àn Qīnglǚ Jiǔdiàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0411 8369 7877; 17-1 Yinghua Jie, 英华街17-1号 dm ¥39-49, d with/without bathroom ¥139/119; pnaiW)

  The sleek industrial space resembles a modern museum, and the cleverly sectioned-off beds give privacy alongside clean, comfy mattresses. Opening a window shutter in the small doubles reveals views right onto the lounge area, but they are still an excellent deal for budget yet stylish digs. An in-house cafe makes up for the few surrounding eating options. UniLoft is behind a raised carpark.

  A taxi from the train station is ¥10.

  oDàlián Noah's Ark Golden Beach HostelHOSTEL$

  (大连挪亚方舟国际青年旅舍, Dàlián Nuóyà Fāngzhōu Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě GOOGLE MAP ; %0411 3968 4088; www.yhachina.com/ls.php?id=339; 57 Binhai Xilu, 滨海西路57号 dm ¥60-80, tw ¥280; hclosed winter; iW)

  There's nothing remotely biblical about the hostel: the architecture, a whitewashed edifice built against a hill and facing the sea, evokes Santorini. Rooms are simple but charming: consider staying in a greenhouse-type glasshouse at the top of the compound! The 2nd-level lounge area is a great spot to have a beer and stare out to sea. Room rates are 70% higher for non-YHA members.

  Getting here is tough. Take bus 5 near the train station at Qīngníwā Qiáo (青泥洼桥) to the last stop. Walk ahead five minutes through a parking lot and down a slope towards Golden Sand Beach (金沙滩; Jīn Shā Tān), pay ¥2 entry and continue towards the seashore and follow it to the right. Pack light as it's a 1km walk. Note: you have to pay the ¥2 entry daily if you go in and out of the area.