Lonely Planet China

by Lonely Planet

  JEWISH HARBIN

  The Jewish influence on Harbin was surprisingly long lasting; the last original Jewish resident of the city died in 1985. In the 1920s Harbin was home to some 20,000 Jews, the largest Jewish community in the Far East at the time. Tongjiang Jie was the centre of Jewish life in the city till the end of WWII, and many of the buildings on the street are from the early 20th century.

  zFestivals & Events

  Harbin Ice & Snow FestivalICE SCULPTURE

  (冰雪节, Bīngxuě Jié; Harbin International Ice & Snow Sculpture Festival %0451 8625 0068; day/evening ticket ¥150/300; h11am-9.30pm)

  Every winter, from December to February (officially the festival opens 5 January), Zhāolín Park and Sun Island Park become home to extraordinarily detailed, imaginative and downright wacky snow and ice sculptures. They range from huge recreations of iconic buildings, such as the Forbidden City and European cathedrals, to animals and interpretations of ancient legends. At night they’re lit up with coloured lights to create a magical effect.

  THE GREAT CATS

  As with many of the world’s powerful wild creatures, size did not give the Amur (Siberian) tiger much of an advantage during the 20th century. The largest feline in the world, topping 300kg for males and capable of taking down a brown bear in a fair fight, was no match for the poachers, wars, revolutions, railway construction and economic development in its traditional territory in Russia, China and Korea. These days it's believed that fewer than 540 of the great cats still prowl the wilds of Russia. Perhaps 60 are divided between Hēilóngjiāng and Jílín provinces in China, and none are left in South Korea.

  It’s a dismal figure, and in 1986 the Chinese government set about boosting numbers by establishing the world’s largest tiger breeding centre in Harbin.

  The majority of these are in captivity, with 28 born in the first half of 2016, but the centre's conditions are dubious. This makes any wild sighting a cause for celebration. In December 2015 the figurative champagne flowed when Amur tigers were captured on film in Jílín province (bringing the province's numbers up to 27 cats) in the Tianqiaoling area, a zone they had been absent from since the 1980s. It is evidence that the cats are expanding their range south – back into traditional Chinese territory.

  4Sleeping

  The most convenient and pleasant place to stay is within a few blocks of Zhongyang Dajie in the Dàolǐqū district. If you need to catch an early train, staying in one of the many hotels surrounding the hectic station can be handy, but be aware that the broad highways are difficult to cross. During the ice and snow festival expect hotel prices to go up by at least 20%.

  Hàolín Business HotelHOTEL$

  (昊琳商务连锁酒店, Hàolín Shāngwù Liánsuǒ Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0451 8467 5555; 26 Tongjiang Jie, 通将街26号 d & tw ¥138-198; ai)

  In the centre of Jewish Harbin, a neighbourhood now loaded with restaurants and barbecue stalls at night, is this business-style express hotel with surprisingly comfortable rooms sporting high ceilings, bright interiors and good modern bathrooms. It’s a two-minute walk to Zhongyang Dajie.

  Kazy International Youth HostelHOSTEL$

  (卡兹国际青年旅舍, Kǎzī Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0451 8469 7113; kazyzcl@126.com; 27 Tongjiang Jie, 通将街27号 dm/s/tw without bathroom ¥40/60/80, d/tw with bathroom ¥180/120; W; g13)

  True, the cosy lounge area is a bit dark and grubby, but the friendly staff are a great source of travel information for the city and province. The eight-bed dorms are better value than the musty (some are windowless) private rooms. Popular with Chinese travellers, so book ahead. A taxi from Harbin station is ¥12.

  Jīndì BīnguǎnHOTEL$$

  (金地宾馆 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0451 8461 8013; 16 Dongfeng Jie, 东风街16号 s & d ¥218-298, tw ¥458; aiW)

  If you’re looking for a river view on the cheap, then this is the place. The owners are friendly, rooms are spacious and there are computers in the more expensive twins. To get to the hotel, turn right at the very end of Zhongyang Dajie. Discounts of up to 30% available.

  Ibis HotelHOTEL$$

  (宜必思酒店; Yíbìsī Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0451 8750 9999; www.ibis.com; 92 Zhaolin Jie; 兆麟街92号 d & tw ¥210; aiW)

  The spotless rooms and handy location, minutes up the road from the Church of St Sophia and Zhongyang Dajie, make up for the sometimes surly front-desk staff. Book online for deals with free (but unspectacular) breakfast.

  oLungmen Grand HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$$

  (龙门贵宾楼酒店, Lóngmén Guìbīn Lóu Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0451 8317 7777; 85 Hongjun Jie, 红军街85号 d/tw ¥580/680; ai)

  With its turn-of-the-century old-world styling almost entirely intact (including marble staircase, dark wood-panelled hallways and copper revolving door), the Lungmen is one of the most atmospheric top-end options in town. Beds and rooms can feel a bit worn, however. Across from the train station, the hotel lobby opens onto Hongjun Jie and its rows of heritage buildings.

  A quick walk up the street’s wide pavements takes you into the shopping heart of Harbin. Discounts available.

  Modern HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$$

  (马迭尔宾馆, Mǎdié’ěr Bīnguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0451 8488 4000; www.madieer.cn; 89 Zhongyang Dajie, 中央大街89号 r incl breakfast from ¥980; aiWs)

  While hardly 'modern', this 1906 construction impressively features some of its original marble, blond-wood accents and art nouveau touches. Spend some time checking out the lobby bar's display of hotel memorabilia before retiring to (thankfully) modern rooms. Note that the entrance to the hotel is around the back. Discounts of up to 30% available.

  PRICE RANGES

  SLEEPING

  Prices are for a double room.

  $ Less than ¥150

  $$ ¥150–¥300

  $$$ More than ¥300

  EATING

  Price ranges are for meals, per person.

  $ Less than ¥30

  $$ ¥30–¥80

  $$$ More than ¥80

  5Eating

  Harbin dishes tend to be thick stew-like concoctions. You’ll also find delicious hotpot, barbecued meats and Russian dishes in the tourist areas. Zhongyang Dajie and its side alleys are full of small restaurants and bakeries, as well as the creamy ice-cream popsicles that Harbin is known for. Tongjiang Jie has fruit stands, sit-down restaurants and outdoor barbecue stalls set up in the evenings.

  oOrient King of Eastern DumplingsDUMPLINGS$

  (东方饺子王, Dōngfāng Jiǎozi Wáng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 81 Zhongyang Dajie, 中央大街81号 dumpling plates ¥13-38; h10.30am-9.30pm; W)

  It’s not just the freshly made jiǎozi (饺子; stuffed dumplings) that are good at this always busy and ever-expanding chain restaurant: there are also plenty of tasty vegie dishes and draft beer on tap. There's another location (东方饺子王, Dōngfāng Jiǎozi Wáng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kunlun Hotel, 8 Tielu Jie, 铁路街8号昆仑大厦 dumpling plates ¥13-38; v) near the train station in the Kunlun Hotel. Picture menu available.

  Harbin Food MarketMARKET$

  (小吃城, Xiǎochī Chéng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 96 Zhongyang Dajie, 中央大街96号 snacks ¥5-20; h8.30am-7.30pm)

  A food market with stalls offering buns, cookies, sausages, fruits and sweets. The market extends out to the main pedestrian street Zhonyang Dajie, where busy stalls serve kebabs, dumplings and ice cream.

  Sùxīn Shídù VegetarianVEGETARIAN$

  (素心食度素食餐厅, Sùxīn Shídù Sùshí Cāntīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0451 8469 8934; 8 Qidao Jie, 七道街8号 buffet ¥18; h11am-2pm & 5-9pm)

  A vegetarian all-you-can-eat buffet that is on the filling, stir-fried side – think yams, cauliflower, tofu, spinach and mung beans. You can self serve yourself a variety of congee and hot drinks too.

  Láifùbiǎndān Chóngqìng Xiǎo MiànSICHUAN$

  (来负扁担重庆小面 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 134-1 Youyi Lu, 友谊路134-1号 noodles ¥9-18; h9am-10pm)

  A cute hole-in
-the-wall eatery serving fiery Sìchuān noodles to a steady stream of customers. Pull up a rustic wooden chair and slurp down sweat-inducing xiǎo miàn (小面; spicy soup noodles) plain or with niú ròu (牛肉; beef). If you can't take the heat, order qīng tāng (清汤; clear soup noodles) instead. No one will notice…they're too busy eating!

  Old Chang’s Spring RollsCHINESE$

  (老昌春饼; Lǎo Chāng Chūnbǐng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 180 Zhongyang Dajie; 中央大街180号 dishes ¥12-38; h10.30am-9pm)

  At this well-known basement spring-roll shop, order a set of wheat roll skins (per roll ¥2), a few plates of meat and vegetable dishes, and then wrap your way to one enjoyable repast.

  Cafe RussiaRUSSIAN$$

  (露西亚咖啡西餐厅, Lùxīyǎ Kāfēi Xī Cāntīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 57 Xitoujiao, 西头到街57号 dishes ¥20-78; h10am-midnight)

  Step back in time at this ivy-covered cafe restaurant. Photos illustrating Harbin’s Russian past line the walls, while the old-school furniture and fireplace evoke a different era. There are standard, passable Russian offerings such as borscht, piroshki (cabbage, potato and meat dumplings) and vodka.

  The restaurant is off Zhongyang Dajie in a little courtyard.

  HARBIN CHEAP EATS

  It's hard to stop eating in Harbin. In any season, the city is abuzz with visitors snacking their way through the day and night. In summer the streets off Zhongyang Dajie come alive with open-air food stalls and beer gardens, where you can sip a Hāpí (the local beer), while munching on squid on a stick, yángròu chuàn (lamb kebabs) and all the usual street snacks.

  The year-round indoor food market has stalls selling decent bread, smoked meats, sausages, wraps and fresh dishes, as well as nuts, cookies, fruits and sweets. It’s a great place to grab a quick breakfast or to stock up on food for a long bus or train ride.

  Just south of the market, on the opposite side of the street, look for the underground Lóngjiāng Xiǎochī Jiē (龙江小吃街 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Zhongyang Dajie; 中央大街 dishes ¥8-18; h9am-6pm; a), a clean, modern food court with a range of inexpensive noodle and rice dishes, as well as kebabs.

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  Ming TienCAFE

  (名典西餐, Míngdiǎn Xīcān MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0451 8465 7070; 214 Shangzhi Dajie, 尚志大街214号 drinks ¥35-60; h10am-10pm)

  For afternoon tea or coffee head to this slightly over-the-top cafe occupying two floors of a heritage building on Shangzhi Dajie. Enter via the subdued parlour, wind your way up the tree-enshrouding staircase and ease into a big brown leather booth with views of Zhāolín Park. There's an equally eclectic menu ranging from borscht to pizza if you get hungry.

  7Shopping

  Shops along Zhongyang Dajie (and all over the city) flog ‘Russian’ knick-knacks, vodka and souvenirs. There are also department stores and Western clothes chains here.

  Locals head to Dongdazhi Jie for their shopping needs, as well as the Hóngbó Century Square (红博世纪广场, Hóngbó Shìjì Guǎngchǎng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Dongdazhi Jie; h6.30am-5pm), a subterranean complex of men’s and women’s clothing, and Tòulóng Shopping City for 11 floors of bargains, including luggage.

  Tòulóng Shopping CitySHOPPING CENTRE

  (透笼国际商品城, Tòulóng Guójì Shāngpǐn Chéng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 58 Shitou Dajie, 石头道街58号 h9am-6pm)

  The best bargains in Harbin are found on the 11 floors of this indoor market. Clothes and souvenirs are on the first of couple levels, with the 4th floor dedicated to luggage and sunglasses. Haggle hard.

  8Information

  There are ATMs all over town. Most large hotels will also change money.

  Bank of China (中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; Xi’er Daojie; 西二道街 ) Has a 24-hour ATM and will cash travellers cheques. Easy to spot on a side road as you walk up Zhongyang Dajie.

  Harbin Modern Travel CompanyTRAVEL AGENCY

  (哈尔滨马迭尔旅行社, Hā’ěrbīn Mǎdié’ěr Lǚxíngshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2nd fl Modern Hotel, 89 Zhongyang Dajie, 中央大街89号 )

  This travel agency offers one- and two-day ski trips to Yàbùlì and can handle flight tickets to Mòhé and other regions.

  VISAS

  The 72-Hour Visa-Free Transit policy allows passport-holders of many countries a stopover in Harbin without arranging a visa before arrival. This includes most European countries, the USA, Canada, Brazil, Mexico, Australia and Japan. You must have an onward ticket to a third country (ie not the country you arrived from). Inform your airline at check-in and seek the '72-hour Visa-Free Transit' counter on arrival. Check the website well before flying: http://english.gov.cn/services/visitchina.

  8Getting There & Away

  Air

  Harbin Taiping International Airport (哈尔滨太平国际机场; Hā'ěrbīn Tàipíng Guójì Jīchǎng ) has flights to Russia, Japan, South Korea and Taiwan, as well as domestic routes, including the following:

  ABěijīng ¥810, two hours

  ADàlián ¥1050, 1½ hours

  AMòhé ¥2100, 1¾ hours

  Bus

  The main long-distance bus station (长途客运站; Chángtú Kèyùn Zhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ) is directly opposite the train station. Buy tickets on the 2nd floor.

  ABěi’ān ¥99, five hours, five daily (7.10am, 8.30am, 12.30pm, 2.20pm and 4.30pm)

  AChángchūn ¥76, four hours, six daily (10am, noon, 1pm, 1.30pm, 3pm and 4pm)

  AMǔdānjiāng ¥94, 4½ hours, hourly (6.30am to 6pm)

  AQíqíhāěr ¥78, 3½ hours, hourly (7am to 6pm)

  AWǔdàlián Chí ¥95 to ¥117, five to six hours, five daily (9am, 11.30am, noon, 1.30pm and 2.45pm). The noon bus goes to the scenic area while the others stop at Wǔdàlián Chí Shì, a ¥40 taxi ride from the scenic area.

  Train

  Harbin is a major rail transport hub with routes throughout the northeast and beyond. If you don’t want to brave the lines in the main station (哈尔滨站; Hā'ěrbīn Zhàn 1 Tielu Jie; 铁路街1号 ), buy tickets at the nearby train booking office (铁路售票处; Tiělù Shòupiàochù MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Tielu Jie; 铁路街 h7am-9pm) to the left of Dico's (fast-food restaurant). Note that some fast D and G trains leave from Harbin West Station (西站; Xīzhàn), 10km from town. A taxi will cost ¥30-40.

  ABěijīng Hard seat/sleeper ¥159/293, 10 to 16 hours, eight daily

  ABěijīng (D/G train) Seat ¥307/542, eight/seven hours, six daily

  AChángchūn (D/G train) Seat ¥74/110, 1½/one hour, regular

  AMòhé Hard/soft sleeper ¥153/296, 17–21 hours (6pm and 7pm)

  AMǔdānjiāng Hard seat/sleeper ¥52/110, five to six hours, regular

  AShěnyáng Hard seat/sleeper ¥75/151, six to seven hours

  AShěnyáng (D/G train) Seat ¥166/247, three/two hours, five daily

  BORDER CROSSING: GETTING TO RUSSIA

  Trains no longer depart from Harbin East Train Station to Vladivostok. Trains do run as far as Suífēnhé, however, from where you can make an onward connection to Vladivostok.

  Travellers on the Trans-Siberian Railway to or from Moscow can start or finish in Harbin (six days). Contact the Harbin Railway International Travel Service (哈尔滨铁道国际旅行社, Hā’ěrbīn Tiědào Guójì Lǚxíngshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0451 5361 6718; www.ancn.net; 7th fl, Kunlun Hotel, 8 Tielu Jie, 铁路街8号昆仑大厦 h9am-5pm) for information on travelling through to Russia.

  8Getting Around

  A cable car ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1-way ¥50, return ¥80) crosses Sōnghuā River from Tongjiang Jie to Sun Island.

  To/From the Airport

  Harbin’s airport is 46km from the city centre. From the airport, shuttle buses ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥20) will drop you at the train station. To the airport, shuttles leave every 30 minutes from a stand just beside Dico's opposite the train station from 5.30am to 7.30pm. A taxi (¥100 to ¥125) takes 45 minutes to an hour.

  Boat

  Ferries ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; return ¥10) cross the Sōnghuā River to Sun Island Park.

>   Bus

  Buses 101 and 103 run from the train station to Shangzhi Dajie, dropping you off at the north end of Zhongyang Dajie (the main pedestrianised, old street). Buses leave from a local bus stop ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) across the road and to the left as you exit the train station (where Chunshen Jie and Hongjun Jie meet).

  Metro

  Harbin’s metro has a single line that doesn't serve any of the tourist sights. Construction for further lines is underway.

  Taxi

  Taxis are fairly plentiful, though they fill up quickly when it’s raining. Taxi flag fall is ¥8.

  Mǔdānjiāng 牡丹江

  %0453 / Pop 805,000

  A pleasant and surprisingly modern small city surrounded by some lovely countryside, Mǔdānjiāng is the jumping-off point for nearby Jìngpò Lake (Mirror Lake) and the Underground Forest. Taiping Jie is the main drag in town and runs directly south of (opposite) the train station.

  4Sleeping

  The train-station area has a number of good hotels and there is no reason to look further into town. For budget accommodation head right as you exit the station. Just past the station square on Guanghua Jie runs a row of guesthouses. There are at least half a dozen to choose from, all offering similar prices and decent digs: dorm beds go for ¥30, rooms with shared bathroom for around ¥40 and rooms with their own bathroom (and sometimes even a computer) from ¥90.