Lonely Planet China

by Lonely Planet

  Ramada Plaza Tài'ānHOTEL$$$

  (东尊华美达大酒店, Dōngzūn Huáměidá Dàjiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0538 836 8666; www.ramadaplazataian.com; 16 Yingsheng Donglu, 迎胜东路16号 s & d ¥1160-1400, ste ¥1960-3360; naWs; g8)

  This decent five-star choice in the northwest has all the usual comforts plus fantastic views of the main attraction, although service can be a bit below par. Discounts of 40%.

  5Eating

  There are three busy food streets in Tài'ān. The night market on the Nài River’s east bank has many hotpot stalls. Vendors on Beǐxīn Snack Street (北新小吃步行街; Běixīn Xiǎochī Bùxíng Jīe MAP GOOGLE MAP ; snacks from ¥5) set up carts for lunch (except Saturday) and dinner. Look for mántóu (馒头; steamed buns), various meats on skewers, fried chicken and more. Hawkers serve similar delights by the temple at Dài Běi Market.

  Dài Běi MarketMARKET$

  (贷北市场, Dàiběi Shìchǎng MAP GOOGLE MAP )

  Hawkers serve up snacks by the Dài Temple at this market, but expect tourist prices.

  Ā Dōngde ShuǐjiǎoCHINESE$

  (阿东的水饺 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %139 5489 8518; 31 Hongmen Lu, 红门路31号 mains from ¥20; h9am-10pm)

  This centrally located restaurant has been knocking around for years, feeding legions of travellers with Chinese staples including shuíjiǎo (水饺; dumplings), with loads of fillings including lamb (羊肉; yángròu; ¥35 per jīn – enough for two) and vegetarian tofu (豆腐; dòufu; ¥20 per jīn). The English menu is challenging, so be prepared to point (or wave your arms around).

  Central Night MarketMARKET$

  (夜市, Yèshì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; meals from ¥25; h5.30pm-late)

  Situated in the centre of town, this night market has hotpot stalls that start cooking from late afternoon. Pick your ingredients (thinly sliced meats, fish balls, vegetables, tofu etc) and take a seat at a low table. Meals cost about ¥25 and a large jug of beer is ¥8.

  Dōngzūn CourtCHINESE$$

  (东尊阁, Dōngzūn Gé MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0538 836 8888; 16 Yingsheng Donglu, 迎胜东路16号 mains from ¥30; h11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-8.30pm)

  Cuisine styles at this elegant and smart tablecloth affair at the Ramada Plaza are Lǔ, Cantonese and Sìchuān, with an entire room dedicated to live freshwater fish and shrimp (priced by the jīn) and freshly made spring-water bean curd (¥38).

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  Rather a sedate destination, Tài'ān doesn't have many bars, but you can get a beer at any of the restaurants or at the night market, where a jug of beer will set you back ¥8.

  8Information

  Agricultural Bank of ChinaBANK

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; 22 Daizong Jie, 岱宗街22号 h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri)

  Currency exchange and 24-hour ATM that accepts foreign cards.

  Bank of ChinaBANK

  (中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; 116 Tongtian Jie, 通天街116号 h8.30am-4.30pm)

  Currency exchange and 24-hour ATM that accepts foreign cards.

  Central HospitalHOSPITAL

  (中心医院, Zhōngxīn Yīyuàn GOOGLE MAP ; %822 4161; 29 Longtan Lu, 龙潭路29号 )

  There's limited English here.

  Public Security BureauPOLICE

  (PSB, 公安局, Gōng’ānjú GOOGLE MAP ; %0538 827 5264; cnr Dongyue Dajie & Qingnian Lu, 东岳大街青年路的路口 hvisa office 8.30am-noon & 1-5.30pm Mon-Fri, or by appointment)

  The visa office (出入境管理处) is on the east side of the shiny grey building.

  Tourist InformationTOURIST INFORMATION

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; Taishanzhan Lu, 泰山站路 )

  Tourist information office at the train station.

  8Getting There & Away

  Whether by road or track, most routes pass through Jǐ’nán, 80km north. Buses and trains are cheapest. Another option is picking up the airport shuttle ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0538 850 2600; 26 Hongmen Lu; 红门路26号 adult ¥80; h5.30am, 8.30am, 10am, 1.30pm, 4.40pm) in front of the Taishan Hotel; it connects to Jǐ’nán’s Yáoqiáng airport, taking two hours.

  Buy train and plane tickets at the Hongmen Lu ticket office (红门火车票代售点 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0538 218 7989; 22 Hongmen Lu; 红门路22号 commission ¥5; h8am-6pm), or at the ticket office (火车票代售处,空售票处 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %plane 218 3333, train 0538 611 1111; 111 Qingnian Lu; 青年路111号 h8.30am-5.30pm) on Qingnian Lu. Hostels can also help and you can also purchases train tickets online at http://english.ctrip.com/trains. Tickets sell out quickly so book early. Bear in mind that bus and train agents sometimes refer to Tài’ān and Tài Shān interchangeably.

  Bus

  The long-distance bus station (Old Station; 长途汽车站; Chángtú Qìchēzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0538 218 8777; cnr Tài’shān Dalu & Longtan Lu; 太山大路龙潭路的路口 ) – locally referred to as lǎo zhàn (老站) – is just south of the train station. Buses regularly depart for the following destinations:

  ABěijīng ¥164, seven hours, 11 daily

  AJǐ’nán ¥27, 1½ hours, every 30 minutes (6am to 6pm)

  AQīngdǎo ¥126, 5½ hours, three daily (7.40am, 9.10am and 2.30pm)

  AQūfù ¥23, one hour, every 30 minutes (7.20am to 5.20pm)

  AWēihǎi ¥165, seven hours, two daily (7.20am and 9am)

  AYāntái ¥150, six hours, one daily (7.20am)

  Train

  Two train stations service this region. Tài Shān Train Station (泰山火车站; Tàishān Huǒchē Zhàn %0538 688 7358; cnr Dongyue Dajie & Longtan Lu; 东岳大街龙潭路的路口 ) is the most central, but express trains only pass through Tài’ān Train Station (泰安火车站; Tài'ān Huǒchē Zhàn %138 0538 5950; Xingaotiezhan Lu; 新高铁站路 ), sometimes referred to as the new station (新站; xīn zhàn), 9km west of the town centre.

  Some regular trains (seat/hard sleeper) departing from Tài Shān Train Station:

  AJǐ’nán ¥13/64, one hour, frequent (24 hours)

  AQīngdǎo ¥69/126, five to seven hours, hourly (12.28am to 2.52pm)

  AQūfù ¥19/29, 1½ hours, two daily (6.05am and 10.50am)

  Express trains (1st-/2nd-class seat) departing from Tài’ān Train Station:

  ABěijīng ¥359/214, two hours, hourly (8.05am to 9.21pm)

  AJǐ’nán ¥50/30, 20 minutes, frequent (7.48am to 10.14pm)

  ANánjīng ¥429/254, 2½ hours, every 30 minutes (7.24am to 8.05pm)

  AQīngdǎo ¥194/149, three hours 10 minutes, six daily (11.14am, 12.54pm, 3.10pm, 5.14pm, 5.46pm and 6.32pm)

  AShànghǎi ¥634/374, 3½ hours, every 30 minutes (7.24am to 7.45pm)

  Tài Shān 泰山

  %0538

  The Shāndōng Chinese love to boast their province has '一山一水一圣人', which means 'One mountain, One river, One saint', namely Tài Shān (泰山), the Yellow River and Confucius. If you have to choose a sacred mountain to scale in China, climb Tài Shān. The mountain and Unesco World Heritage Site has been worshipped since at least the 11th century BC. To scholars and poets it is known as Dōng Yuè (东岳), the Eastern Great Mountain, one of China's five most sacred Taoist peaks.

  Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor, chose its summit to proclaim the unified kingdom of China in 219 BC. From its heights Confucius uttered the dictum 'The world is small.' Pilgrims – young, old and very old – still make their way up the steps as a symbol of their devotion to Taoist and Buddhist teachings.

  It is said that if you climb Tài Shān, you will live to see 100. Beyond Qin Shi Huang, 71 other emperors and countless figures also paid this mountain their respects. To follow in their footsteps, there are four routes up to the highest peak (1532m) that can be done on foot: Central route, historically the Emperor’s Route, winds 8.9km from Dài Temple to the summit and gains 1400m in elevation; Peach Blossom Park route climbs 13km on the west side; and the least travelled 5.4km Tiānzhú Peak route goes up the back of the mountain from the east. Western route follows the 14km shuttle-bus route and converges with the Central route at the hal
fway point (Midway Gate to Heaven), from where it’s another 3.5km up steep steps to the summit.

  If this sounds like too much for your knees, there are alternatives: cover the Western route by bus to Midway Gate to Heaven and then take the cable car to South Gate to Heaven near the summit. Reverse the journey or nab a bus to get back down.

  Sights on the mountain close around 5pm. Weather can change suddenly and the summit gets very bitter, windy and wet, so bring warm layers and rain gear. Wear lightweight but durable and waterproof shoes: you don't want to be dragging heavyweight boots all the way to the top. You can buy brightly coloured rain ponchos and, at the top, rent overcoats (¥30).

  As with all Chinese mountain hikes, viewing the sunrise is considered an integral part of the experience. You can either do a night hike (with torches) or, easier, stay overnight at one of the (expensive) summit guesthouses to greet the first rays of dawn.

  The best times to visit are in September, when humidity is low and the sting of the summer heat has ebbed away; in early October for the clearest weather on the mountain; and in spring, to see the mountain flowers and trees in bloom, and before the summer hothouse begins.

  Tài Shān

  1Sights

  1Archway to ImmortalityA1

  2Azure Clouds TempleB1

  3Cloud Step BridgeB2

  4Confucius TempleA1

  5God of Wealth TempleB3

  6Jade Emperor TempleB1

  7Midway Gate to HeavenB3

  8North Gate to HeavenB1

  9North Pointing RockB1

  10Opposing Pines PavilionA2

  11Path of 18 BendsA2

  12Qīngdì PalaceB1

  13South Gate to HeavenA1

  14Ten-Thousand Zhàng TabletB2

  4Sleeping

  15Nán Tiān Mén BīnguǎnA1

  16Shénqì HotelB1

  17Xiānjū BīnguǎnA1

  Transport

  18Main Tài Shān Cable CarB3

  19Peach Blossom Park Cable CarA1

  20Rear Rocky Recess Cable CarB1

  21Western Route Midway Gate Bus StopB3

  1Climbing Tài Shān

  Central Route (中路)

  The Central Route has been the main route up the mountain since the 3rd century BC, and over the past two millennia a bewildering number of bridges, trees, rivers, gullies, inscriptions, caves, pavilions and temples have become famous sites in their own right. The central route is well paved so you won't need sherpas, climbing ropes, crampons or oxygen, but don’t underestimate the challenge of its 7000 knee-wrenching steps. Figure at least six hours from Dài Temple to get to the top.

  As well as being a ne plus ultra stepmaster, Tài Shān functions as an outdoor museum of antiquities. Two of the most prized are Rock Valley Scripture (经石峪; Jīngshí Yù GOOGLE MAP ), in the first part of the climb, a massive inscription of a Buddhist text that was once hidden behind a waterfall, and North Prayer Rock (拱北石; Gǒngběi Shí), a huge boulder pointing skyward and a site of imperial sacrifices to heaven, at the summit.

  Purists begin with a south–north perambulation through Dài Temple, 1.7km south of the actual ascent, in accordance with imperial tradition, but there is no shame in starting at the bus stop by Guandi Temple (关帝庙; Guāndì Miào MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥10), the first of many dedicated to the Taoist protector of peace. Passing First Gate of Heaven (一天门; Yītiān Mén MAP GOOGLE MAP ) marks the start of the incline, though the ticket office (售票处; Shòupiào Chù GOOGLE MAP ; %0538 806 6077; h24hr) is still a way further at Wànxiān Tower (万仙楼 MAP GOOGLE MAP ). The Red Gate Palace (红门宫; Hóng Mén Gōng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥5; h8am-5pm) is the first of a series of temples dedicated to Bixia – the Heavenly Jade Maiden – daughter of the god of Tài Shān.

  Take a detour into the Geoheritage Scenic Area (地质园区; Dìzhí Yuánqū MAP GOOGLE MAP ) for a look at unusual radial rock formations that mesmerised Confucius himself. Back on the main path is the Dǒumǔ Hall (斗母宫; Dǒumǔ Gōng MAP GOOGLE MAP ), dedicated to the Taoist Mother of the Big Dipper, first constructed in 1542 under the name ‘Dragon Spring Nunnery’. Continue through the tunnel of cypresses known as Cypress Cave (柏洞; Bó Dòng MAP GOOGLE MAP ) to Balking Horse Ridge (回马岭; Huímǎ Lǐng MAP GOOGLE MAP ), which marks the point where Emperor Zhenzong had to dismount and continue by litter because his horse refused to go further.

  The Midway Gate to Heaven (中天门; Zhōng Tiān Mén MAP GOOGLE MAP ) marks the point where some travellers, seeing the stairway disappearing into the clouds, head for the cable car. Don’t give up! Rest your legs, visit the small and smoky God of Wealth Temple (财神庙; Cáishén Miào MAP GOOGLE MAP ) to seek inspiration and strength and stock up on calorific snacks.

  If you decide to make a float for the summit, the main cable car (空中索道; kōngzhōng suǒdào MAP GOOGLE MAP ; one way/return ¥100/200; h7.30am-6.30pm 16 Apr-15 Oct, 8.30am-5pm 16 Oct-15 Apr) is a 15-minute ride to Moon View Peak (月观峰; Yuèguān Fēng) at the South Gate to Heaven. Be warned: peak season and weekend queues can take two hours. Also, the cable car stops when there is any risk of lightning.

  If you continue on foot you’ll come next to Cloud Step Bridge (云步桥; Yúnbù Qiáo MAP GOOGLE MAP ), once a modest wooden bridge spanning a torrent of waterfalls, and the withered and wiry Wǔdàfū Pine (五大夫松; Wǔdàfū Sǒng), under which Emperor Qin Shi Huang, overtaken by a violent storm, sought shelter. Across the valley, each character carved in the Ten-Thousand Zhàng Tablet (万丈碑 MAP GOOGLE MAP ), dated 1748, measures 1m across.

  You’ll pass Opposing Pines Pavilion (对松亭; Duìsōng Tíng MAP GOOGLE MAP ) and then finally reach the arduous Path of 18 Bends (十八盘; Shíbāpán MAP GOOGLE MAP ), a 400m extremely steep ascent to the mountain’s false summit. If you have the energy, see if you can spot the small shrine dedicated to the Lord of Tài Shān’s grandmother along the way. There is an alternate route to the Azure Clouds Temple here via another steep, narrow staircase to the right. If you continue on the main route, at the top is the Archway to Immortality (升仙坊; Shēngxiān Fāng MAP GOOGLE MAP ), once believed to bestow immortality on those dedicated enough to reach it.

  The final stretch takes you to the South Gate to Heaven (南天门; Nán Tián Mén MAP GOOGLE MAP ), the third celestial gate, which marks the beginning of the summit area. Bear right on Tian Jie (天街), the main strip, and pass through the gate to reach the sublimely perched Azure Clouds Temple (碧霞祠; Bìxiá Cí MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h8am-5.15pm), dedicated to Bixia.

  You have to climb higher to get to the Confucius Temple (孔庙; Kǒng Miào MAP GOOGLE MAP ), where statues of Confucius, Mencius, Zengzi and other Confucian luminaries are venerated. The Taoist Qīngdì Palace (青帝宫; Qīngdì Gōng MAP GOOGLE MAP ) is right before the fog- and cloud-swathed Jade Emperor Temple (玉皇顶; Yùhuáng Dǐng MAP GOOGLE MAP ), which stands at the summit, the highest point of the Tài Shān plateau.

  The main sunrise vantage point is the North Pointing Rock (拱北石; Gǒngběi Shí MAP GOOGLE MAP ); if you’re lucky, visibility extends over 200km to the coast.

  At the summit, you can see another side of the mountain by descending via the Tiānzhú Peak or Peach Blossom Park route.

  Western Route (西路)

  The most popular way to descend is by bus ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; one way ¥30; h6am-6pm & midnight-2am peak, 7am-6pm off-peak) via the Western Route. These buses are also very handy for night hikes up to catch the sunrise. They zip every 20 minutes (or when full) between Tiānwài Village and Midway Gate to Heaven, not stopping in between.

  Walking the route is not always pleasant as the poorly marked footpath and road often intercept or coincide, but it rewards you with a variety of scenic orchards and pools. At the mountain’s base, Pervading Light Temple (普照寺; Pǔzhào Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥5; h8am-5.30pm) is a serene Buddhist temple dating from the Southern and Northern dynasties (420–589). The main attraction is Black Dragon Pool (黑龙潭; Hēilóng Tán MAP GOOGLE MAP ), just belo
w Longevity Bridge (长寿桥; Chángshòu Qiáo MAP GOOGLE MAP ).

  Tiānzhú Peak Route

  The less-travelled route through the Tiānzhú Peak Scenic Area (天烛峰景区; Tiānzhú Fēng Jǐngqū) offers a rare chance to experience Tài Shān with fewer crowds. It’s largely ancient pine forest, ruins and peaks back there, so consider combining it with the Central route for an entirely different view.

  If you ascend this way, get an early start to the trailhead, which is 15km by bus 19 (¥2) from Tài Shān Train Station. The challenging climb itself can take five hours.

  It’s 5.4km from the trailhead to the Rear Rocky Recess Cable Car (后石坞索道; Hòu Shíwù suǒdào MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0538 833 0765; one way ¥20; h8.30am-4pm Apr-Oct, closed 16 Oct-15 Apr), which takes you from the back of the mountain to the North Gate to Heaven (北天门; Běi Tiānmén MAP GOOGLE MAP ) cable-car stop (北天门索道站; Běi Tiānmén suǒdào zhàn) and views of Tiānzhú Peak – when it’s running. Call in advance.

  Peach Blossom Park Route

  This route to the summit passes through a scenic valley of striking geological formations and trees that explode with colour in early spring and fall. It makes for an especially pleasant descent.

  Near the South Gate to Heaven, take Peach Blossom Park cable car (桃花源索道; Táohuā Yuán suǒdào MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0853 833 0763; one way/return ¥100/200; h7.30am-5pm) down to Peach Blossom Valley. This cable car operates infrequently, so call ahead. From the cable car drop-off it is another 9km on foot or by bus (one way ¥30, departs when full 6am to 6pm and midnight to 2am) to reach the park exit and bus 16 back into town.