Lonely Planet China

by Lonely Planet

  8Getting Around

  Private cars and taxis aren’t allowed within park boundaries, but park shuttles (unlimited rides ¥40) at each gate cover the routes. There are also local buses (¥2).

  Most of your travel will be on foot, although a cable car runs part way up Jùfēng, and there is another cable car that ascends the Yǎngkǒu Scenic Area.

  Yāntái 烟台

  %0535 / Pop 1.8 million

  The sleepy portside town of Yāntái (烟台) somehow has one of the fastest-developing economies in China – no small feat in a country of exponential growth. It managed to court foreign investment in its high-tech industry while building itself into a popular beach resort with a distinctive treaty port history. A tunnel connects the old district of Zhīfú with the booming Láishān district to the southeast. For now, this is still a place where you can take things easy. With Pénglái Pavilion not far away, the town makes for a relaxing two-day sojourn.

  History

  Starting life as a defence outpost and fishing village, Yāntái’s name literally means ‘Smoke Terrace’: wolf-dung fires were lit on the headlands during the Ming dynasty to warn villagers of Japanese marauders. Yāntái was thrust under the international spotlight in the late 19th century when the Qing government, reeling from defeat in the Opium War, signed over the city to the British and French, who established a treaty port here, when it was known as Chefoo (Zhifu). The rest of the eight-nation alliance followed with outposts, which remained until the province was captured by the Japanese in WWII. After the war, China kept Yāntái's ports (ice-free in winter) open for foreign trade.

  Yāntái

  1Sights

  1Yāntái Folk Custom MuseumC2

  2Yāntái Hill ParkC1

  3Yāntái MuseumB2

  4Sleeping

  4Coast International Youth HostelC1

  5Golden Gulf HotelC1

  6Shāndōng Machinery HotelD2

  7WaitinnA1

  5Eating

  8Nan Dajie Food StallsA2

  9Róngxiáng HǎixiānC1

  10Shìdé WūC1

  7Shopping

  11Joy CityB1

  Transport

  12Airport ShuttleA1

  13Beima Lu Bus StationA1

  14Long-Distance Main Bus StationA1

  15Passenger Ferry TerminalB1

  16Train StationB1

  17Wēidōng Ferry CompanyB1

  1Sights

  Yāntái Folk Custom MuseumMUSEUM

  (烟台民俗博物馆, Yāntái Mínsú Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 257 Nan Dajie, 南大街257号 h8.30-11.30am & 1.30-4.30pm; g43, 46)F

  It's really architecture on display at this museum, an amazing guild hall built between 1884 and 1906 by arrivals from Fújiàn. In the centre of the courtyard is a spectacularly intricate, decorated gate. Supported by 22 pillars, it's adorned with hundreds of carved and painted figures, phoenixes and other beasties, depicting classic folk tales including The Eight Immortals Crossing the Sea.

  The centerpiece is the Hall of the Heavenly Goddess, where the goddess Tianhou is surrounded by a set of tin instruments in the shapes of gourds and tiny mice, crawling dragons and dragon heads.

  Yāntái Hill ParkPARK

  (烟台山公园, Yāntáishān Gōngyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥50, lighthouse ¥10; h7am-6pm)

  This quaint park of stone paths, leafy gardens and ocean vistas is also a museum of Western treaty port architecture. Wolf-dung fires burned continuously along the smoke terrace above, beginning in the 14th-century reign of Emperor Hongwu. Stroll by the former American Consulate Building, which retains some original interior features and contains an exhibit on Yāntái’s port days. Nearby, the former Yāntái Union Church dates from 1875. The former British Consulate overlooks the bay with its annexe surrounded by an overgrown English garden.

  Láishān BeachBEACH

  (莱山海水浴场, Láishān Hǎishuǐ Yùchǎng g17)

  This vast expanse of golden sand in the developing district 11km east of the old town attracts clam diggers and sunbathers alike. Get off at the Huánghǎi City Flower Garden (黄海城市花园) stop.

  No 1 BeachBEACH

  (第一海水浴场, Dìyī Hǎishuǐ Yùchǎng GOOGLE MAP ; g17)

  One of Yāntái's two main beaches, No 1 Beach is a long stretch of soft sand in a calm bay.

  No 2 BeachBEACH

  (第二海水浴场, Dì’èr Hǎishuǐ Yùchǎng g17)

  About 3km east of the old town, No 2 Beach is rocky in parts but surrounded by lively tide pools.

  Yāntái MuseumMUSEUM

  (烟台市博物馆, Yāntái Shì Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 623 2976; 61 Nan Dajie, 南大街61号 h9am-4pm, closed Mon; g43, 46)F

  The sparkling museum traces the historical development of the Jiāodōng peninsula, where Yāntái currently stands, from the prehistoric age and successive kingdoms to the present day. There’s a display on the 'Shell Mound' culture (a glimpse at a neolithic civilisation’s rubbish) and a wonderful collection of rare porcelain. There are reasonable English descriptions.

  4Sleeping

  Many hotels are clustered around the train and bus stations where it’s noisy and dull. It’s much more pleasant on the charming old streets around Chaoyang Jie's north end.

  Coast International Youth HostelHOSTEL$

  (海岸国际青年旅舍, Hǎi'àn Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 623 0655, English 180 5358 8599; 41 Chaoyang Jie, 朝阳街41号 dm ¥50-60, s/d ¥128/198; aiW)

  Smack in the heart of Yāntái's charming old town is this cheery hostel with a bright common room and evening movies, a coffee bar and an open kitchen. In between mixing drinks and weekend barbecues, staff lead walking tours of the neighbourhood and bike rides to Yǎngmǎ Island (bike rental ¥20), plus they can help book tickets.

  Shāndōng Machinery HotelHOTEL$$

  (山东机械大厦, Shāndōng Jīxiè Dàshà MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 622 4561; 162 Jiefang Lu, 解放路162号 s & d ¥308-480, ste ¥580; aW)

  With Korean and Japanese restaurants, and an international ticketing office on the premises, staff here know how to cater to non-Mandarin-speaking guests. The Asian-decor rooms have nicer details (wooden soaking tubs) than the Western ones, but all are way nicer than the building's exterior suggests. Discounts of up to 30%. Look for the 'SD MACH' sign on the rooftop.

  WaitinnHOTEL$$

  (维特风尚酒店, Wéitè Fēngshàng Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 212 0909; www.waitinn.com; 73 Beima Lu, 北马路73号 tw & d ¥288-328, tr ¥358; ai)

  Opposite the train station, this refurbished hotel is a decent place to, as it were, wait in. Rooms are large, comfortable and equipped with flat-screen TVs. Add breakfast for ¥15 and ask for a discount. Another branch is right by the bus station.

  Golden Gulf HotelHOTEL$$$

  (金海湾酒店, Jīnhǎiwān Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 663 6999; fax 0535 663 2699; 34 Hai'an Lu, 海安路34号 s & d incl breakfast ¥986-1280; aW)

  This impressive five-star hotel has a superb sea and parkside location, and bright, well-maintained rooms. Expect discounts of up to 50% off room prices during the low season.

  5Eating

  South of Yāntái Hill, the old town pedestrian streets branching off Chaoyang Jie (朝阳街) are crammed with vendors serving some of the freshest seafood and tastiest street food in these parts. There's also international restaurants, bars, cafes and even an Irish pub or two, though some are shut outside of summer.

  A good variety of restaurants can also be found in the luxury Joy City (大悦城, Dàyuè Chéng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 150 Beima Lu; 北马路150号 h10am-10pm) shopping mall.

  Nan Dajie Food StallsSTREET FOOD$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Nan Dajie, 南大街 snacks from ¥2; hnoon-9pm)

  This small cluster of food stalls along the park next to the Parkson department store in the heart of the shopping district is a good place for a snack.

  Xiāngfǔ Ròudīng ShuǐjiǎoDUMPLINGS$

  (乡府肉丁水�
� GOOGLE MAP ; %155 0545 3700; Fulai Lijie, 福来里街近烟台华侨小学西大门 mains from ¥20; h10.30am-2pm & 4.30-9pm; g6)

  At the south end of Fulai Lijie by the elementary school, this tiny restaurant draws foodies from afar with its speciality dumplings (水饺; shuǐjiǎo); the ones stuffed with tender bàyú (鲅鱼; ¥30 per jīn, enough for two), a locally caught mackerel, are delicious.

  oRóngxiáng HǎixiānSEAFOOD$$

  (荣祥海鲜 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %155 0663 3177; 25-1 Fumin Jie, at Haiguan Jie, 阜民街25-1号, 海关街 mains from ¥35; h11am-1pm & 5-8.40pm)

  At this perpetually packed local institution, the seafood is crawling/swimming/blinking in the back room where you put in your order. Quick-tongued staff toss out price per jīn for creatures from the briney deep and suggested cooking methods as you point – clams, ¥38, spicy (辣炒; làchǎo); crab, ¥38, ginger scallion (姜葱; jiāngcōng); abalone, ¥75, sautéed without chilli (清炒; qīng chǎo); and so on.

  Everything is in Chinese, so if intimidated, tell them your overall budget, point and just go with the flow. Then grab the first table you find.

  Shìdé WūJAPANESE$$

  (食德屋 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 621 6676; 23 Hai’an Jie, 海岸街23号 mains from ¥25; h11am-1pm & 5-9.30pm)

  Chef Hao lived in Japan for a decade before opening up this place with his wife. Now it’s a popular spot for sashimi (from ¥38), fried pork cutlets (¥30), and udon and ramen (¥26 to ¥36). The soothing wood decor balances out the Japanese TV turned up full blast.

  Crowne PlazaINTERNATIONAL$$

  (%0535 689 9999; 299 Gangcheng Dongdajie, 港城东大街299号 )

  The Korean, Latin and Chinese restaurants in the Crowne Plaza are all excellent, but they are a 50-minute ride to Láishān district. Take bus 50 (¥2) or a taxi (¥50) from the town centre.

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  Chaoyang Jie and the streets branching off it in the old town south of Yāntái Hill are good for Irish pubs, bars and cafes.

  8Information

  Bank of ChinaBANK

  (中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; 166 Jiefang Lu, 解放路166号 h9am-5pm Mon-Sat)

  ATM accepts all cards; changes money.

  China PostPOST

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; 28 Hai’an Jie, 海岸街28号 )

  China PostPOST

  (中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; Beima Lu & Dahaiyang Lu, across from train station, 北马路大海阳路路口 h8am-noon & 1-5pm)

  Public Security BureauPOLICE

  (公安局, Gōng’ānjú %0535 629 7046; 7 Chang’an Lu, 长安路7号 h8-11.30am & 1.30-5pm Mon-Fri; g17)

  Office for entry/exit visas (出入境管理处) in Láishān district.

  Yāntái Shān HospitalHOSPITAL

  (烟台山医院, Yāntái Shān Yīyuàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 660 2001; 91 Jiefang Lu, 解放路91号 )

  Chinese-speaking only.

  8Getting There & Away

  Air

  Yāntái Pénglái International Airport (烟台蓬莱国际机场; Yāntái Pénglái Guójì Jīchǎng ) serves both Yāntái and Pénglái and is around 43km northwest of Yāntái. Book tickets online at www.english.ctrip.com.

  There are regular flights to Běijīng (¥690, one hour 20 minutes), Shànghǎi (¥940, one hour 50 minutes) and Guǎngzhōu (¥2050, three hours 10 minutes).

  Boat

  Purchase tickets for ferries to Dàlián (seat ¥180, bed ¥210 to ¥1200, seven hours, nine daily 8am to 11.30pm) at the Yāntái Harbour Passenger Transit Terminal (烟台港客运站; Yāntáigǎng Kèyùnzhàn %0535 650 6666; www.bohaiferry.com; 155 Beima Lu; 北马路155号 ) or ticket offices east of the train station or in the bus station. There are also two boats to Lǚshùn (tickets from ¥100, 6½ hours) at 2.10pm and 10pm.

  BORDER CROSSING: SOUTH KOREA

  Shāndōng's coastline offers easy access to international cities across the Yellow Sea. Boats regularly depart from Yāntái’s Passenger Ferry Terminal (烟台港客运站; Yāntái Gǎng Kèyùnzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 624 2715; 155 Beima Lu; 北马路155号 ) for Incheon (仁川) and Pyeongtaek (平泽), South Korea.

  Wēidōng Ferry Company (威东航运; Wēidōng Hángyùn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 660 3721; www.weidong.com; 155 Beima Lu, next to Yāntái Passenger Ferry Terminal; 北马路155号 dm from ¥600, r ¥890-1370), next to Yāntái Passenger Ferry Terminal, sails three times a week from Yāntái (16 hours, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, departs 6.30pm). Tickets sell out, so book in advance by phone or at the ticket office next to the ferry terminal. Plan to check in early, generally before 3pm, as customs and other inspections are required. The cheapest tickets are usually for spots on the floor in large carpeted rooms, so upgrade at least one level if you need privacy.

  There are also boats (from ¥950, 6pm, 14½ hours) every Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday to Pyeongtaek in South Korea.

  Weidong Ferry (威东航运, Wēidōng Hángyùn %0631 522 6173; 48 Haibin Beilu; 海滨北路48号, Wēihǎi dm ¥750, r ¥890-1370) also sails from Wēihǎi (Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday, departs 7pm) from the passenger ferry terminal (威海港国际客运码头; Wēihǎi Gǎng Guójì Kèyùn Mǎtóu %0631 523 6799; www.whport.com.cn; 288 Shū Gǎng Lù; 疏港路288号, Wēihǎi ). Buses from Yāntái's long-distance main bus station (¥38) make the 70km drive to Wēihǎi's station every 10 minutes from 5.30am to 7pm, then you transfer to bus K01 for the 10km drive north to the ferry terminal.

  Bus

  From the long-distance main bus station (长途总汽车站; Chāngtú Zǒng Qìchē Zhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 666 6111; 86 Xi Dajie & Qingnian Lu; 西大街青年路的路口 ) there are buses to numerous destinations:

  ABěijīng ¥246, 10 hours, four daily (8.45am, 9.20am, 7pm and 7.10pm)

  AJǐ’nán ¥147, 5½ hours, every 30 minutes (6am to 6.20pm)

  APénglái ¥23 to ¥27, 1½ hours, frequently (5.30am to 6pm)

  AQīngdǎo ¥84, four hours, every 30 minutes (5am to 6.30pm)

  AShànghǎi ¥310, sleeper bus, 12 hours, three daily (7pm, 8pm and 8.20pm)

  ATiānjīn ¥198, 11 hours, one to two daily (10am and 7.30pm)

  AWēihǎi ¥38, one hour, frequently (6am to 6pm)

  Train

  Regular trains depart from Yāntái train station (火车站; Hǔochē Zhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 9510 5175; Beima Lu; 北马路 ) for the following destinations:

  ABěijīng 1st/2nd class ¥523/357, 5½ hours, two daily (9.43am and 2.20pm)

  AJǐ’nán 1st/2nd class ¥194/162, three hours, 16 daily (6.50am to 6.15pm)

  AQīngdǎo seat/hard sleeper ¥38/57, 4½ hours, one daily (8.27am)

  AShànghǎi 1st/2nd class ¥874/566, eight hours, two daily (9.10am & 2.21pm)

  AXī’ān seat/hard sleeper ¥198/349, 24 hours, one daily (3.15pm)

  8Getting Around

  To/From the Airport

  Airport shuttle (机场巴士; Jīchǎng Bāshì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 629 9146; ¥20) buses leave from the long-distance bus station for the airport between 4.45am and 8pm. Shuttle buses also leave every hour from the Crowne Plaza (机场巴士; Jīchǎng Bāshì Crowne Plaza, 299 Gangcheng Dongdajie; 港城东大街99号 ¥20) between 4.30am and 7.30pm.

  Bus

  Bus 17 (¥2) conveniently runs along Yāntái's coastline, passing a number of sandy strips and tide pools in between the main beaches that are worth jumping off for. Bus 6 runs along Beima Lu from the old town to the bus station (北马路汽车站, Běimǎ Lù Qìchē Zhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0535 665 8714; cnr Beima Lu & Qingnian Lu; 北马路青年路的路口 ). Bus 10 reaches Láishān district’s main streets.

  Taxi

  Taxi flag fall is ¥8 for the first 6km and ¥1.80 (slightly more at night) per kilometre thereafter. It's about a ¥50 ride from the airport.

  Pénglái 蓬莱

  %0535 / Pop 450,000

  The city of Pénglái (蓬莱) has long been connected with the Taoist legend of the Eight Immortals Crossing the Sea. Though the exact location of the legendary land of Pénglái, where the Fo
ur Immortals were said to live, is disputed, Pénglái City in Shāndōng (about 75km northwest of Yāntái) enjoys an understandable connection to the legend, especially thanks to the 1000-year-old Pénglái Pavilion, which sits on a mountain overlooking the Bo Sea.

  1Sights

  Pénglái PavilionHISTORIC SITE

  (蓬莱阁, Pénglái Gé ¥140; h6.30am-6.30pm summer, to 5pm winter)

  About 75km northwest of Yāntái perched on a bluff overlooking the waves, the 1000-year-old Pénglái Pavilion is closely entwined with Chinese mythology and the Taoist legend of the Eight Immortals Crossing the Sea. The route up to the pavilion passes the grounds of an ancient naval base and a series of temples. The pavilion itself is unassuming as its restored exterior is rather similar to surrounding structures.

  Inside is a collection of prized inscriptions left by famous visitors since the Song dynasty, and a beautiful modern rendering of the Eight Immortals by Zhou Jinyun. There are many versions of the story, but in this one the immortals, who came from different walks of life, shared drinks at the pavilion before crossing the Bo Sea using unique superpowers.