Lonely Planet China

by Lonely Planet

  Though very few beds here qualify as even remotely ancient, there are some beautiful examples of elaborately carved traditional beds, along with some explanations of the symbolism etched upon them (grapes, for example, signify a hope for plenty of sons and grandsons).

  Huìyuán Pawn HouseHISTORIC BUILDING

  (汇源当铺, Huìyuán Dàngpù Changfeng Jie, 常丰街, Dōngzhà; 东栅 h8am-5pm)

  Once a famous pawnshop that eventually expanded to branches in Shànghǎi, this old shop is bare now, though the high counter – where the owner lorded over those who came to pawn their possessions – remains.

  Xīzhà Scenic Zone

  The Xīzhà scenic zone is the more photogenic of the two zones, as its main street, Xizha Dajie (西栅大街) is criss-crossed with bridges from where you can gaze upon the canals. This is where visitors spend most of their time.

  Chinese Footbinding Culture MuseumMUSEUM

  (三寸金莲馆, Sāncùn Jīnlián Guǎn 349 Xizha Dajie, 西栅大街349号, Xīzhà; 西栅 h8am-5pm)

  With plenty of English, this fascinating museum covers the thousand-year history of female footbinding in China with examples of the shoes that constituted, as captions in the museum attest to, 'The Golden Lotus complex that was the freakish mentality of the males at that time'. Periodically banned, footbinding was final abolished in the 20th century.

  Yuèlǎo TempleBUDDHIST SITE

  (月老庙, Yuèlǎo Miào Xīzhà, 西栅 )

  Singles and couples alike come here to win the favour of the god of love (who, interestingly, appears here as an old man) by lighting incense and tying red-stringed charms to trees around the temple.

  White Lotus PagodaBUDDHIST SITE

  (白莲塔, Báilián Tǎ h8am-5pm)

  This seven-storey pagoda is a beacon at the far west end of the Xīzhà scenic zone. You can climb up to the 3rd floor for excellent views over the Grand Canal.

  4Sleeping & Eating

  Wūzhèn is a lovely place to stay overnight, although you can easily make it a day trip from either Shànghǎi or Hángzhōu. Only the Xīzhà scenic zone is set up for overnight guests, with both budget and boutique inns. The visitor centre can make bookings, though you'll need to book ahead on weekends and holiday periods.

  Restaurants and snack vendors are plentiful. Prices are fixed though not outrageous; for cheaper food look to restaurants along Xinhua Lu, which bisects the Dōngzhà scenic zone. Everything in Dōngzhà shuts up at 5pm; restaurants and stalls stay open until 9pm or 10pm in Xīzhà.

  Wisteria Youth HostelHOSTEL$

  (紫藤国际青年旅社, Zǐténg Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè %0573 8873 1332; wuzhenwisteria@163.com; 43 Sizuo Jie, 丝作街43号 4-/6-/8-bed dm ¥100/80/60, d from ¥350; W)

  At the far west end of Xīzhà, in a creaky wooden building within stumbling distance of the bar strip, this hostel has basic but clean rooms and a pleasant common area that opens on to a large square. The dorms are the best value you'll find on a budget in Wūzhèn but the double rooms are only worthwhile with a discount.

  Wūzhèn GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$

  (乌镇民宿, Wūzhèn Mínsù %0573 8873 1088; wuzhen1@wuzhen.com.cn; 137 Xizha Dajie, 西栅大街137号 r from ¥340; a)

  Stretching the length of Xizha Dajie, in the Xīzhà scenic zone, is this loose collection of canalside, family-run B&Bs in old wooden homes with modern amenities. Prices rise for rooms with river views and verandahs, and those in the middle of town (rooms are numbered 1 to 65) are generally considered more desirable as they're away from the main gates.

  Reserve in advance (through the visitor centre booking hotline) if you've got your heart set on a verandah; otherwise you can book on arrival at the visitor centre or at the reception at 137 Xizha Dajie.

  3Entertainment

  Ten-minute martial-arts performances are held eight times daily on the aptly named Kungfu Boat (拳船; quán chuán), just inside the main entrance to the Dōngzhà scenic zone. Other performances, such as shadow puppet shows (píyǐngxì), take place irregularly in halls around both zones; look out for signs or inquire at the visitor centre for the day's schedule.

  8Information

  There are ATMs at the main entrances to both scenic zones.

  China PostPOST

  (中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng 500 Xizha Dajie, 西栅大街500号 h8am-5pm)

  Midway down Xizha Dajie.

  Wūzhèn Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

  (乌镇游客服务中心, Wūzhèn Yóukè Fúwù Zhōngxīn %0573 8873 1088; www.wuzhen.com.cn; Hongqiao Lu, 虹桥路 h8am-5.30pm)

  At the entrance to the Xīzhà scenic zone, with left luggage and an accommodation booking counter.

  8Getting There & Away

  From Hángzhōu, buses (¥31, 75 minutes, hourly from 7am to 6.20pm) run regularly to Wūzhèn from the Main Bus Station. The last bus returns at 6.25pm.

  From Shànghǎi, buses (¥61, two hours) run roughly every 30 minutes from Shànghǎi South Bus Station; the last return bus is at 6pm. Eight buses (¥35, 110 minutes) also run between Wūzhèn and Sūzhōu train station.

  There are two daily buses to Nánxún at 8.30am and 1.30pm (60 minutes, ¥10), but no direct buses in the opposite direction.

  8Getting Around

  Bus 350 (¥2, 7am to 5.30pm, frequent) runs in a loop from Wūzhèn bus station to Xīzhà scenic zone and Dōngzhà scenic zone and then back to the bus station. A free shuttle bus (7.40am to 5.20pm, every 20 minutes) runs between the main entrance to both scenic zones.

  Sānlúnchē (pedicabs) can be picked up at Wūzhèn bus station and on Xinhua Lu (新华路), at the west end of the Dōngzhà scenic zone. Rides between the two zones or the bus station cost ¥10. It is possible to walk between the two zones in 20 minutes.

  Nánxún 南浔

  %0572 / Pop 491,000

  Established during the Southern Song dynasty, Nánxún (南浔) rose to prominence in the Ming and Qing dynasties, when it became a key trading point along the grand canal from Běijīng to Hángzhōu. Merchants made fortunes in silk and translated it into decadent homes. It's now a sprawling city, on the border with Jiāngsū province, but the old town within it is well preserved. Like other towns on the water, Nánxún has arched stone bridges, meandering lanes and old wooden houses. What sets it apart is its fascinating mix of Chinese and European architecture – and comparatively few visitors.

  1Sights

  Nánxún's scenic area (¥100, 7.30am-5pm Apr-Oct, 8am-4.30pm Nov-Mar) stretches a couple of kilometres along a network of canals and is easily walkable in half a day. The waterway along Nanxi Lu (南溪路) is the largest, and the most touristy; it runs perpendicular to Dongdajie (东大街), another canal-lined street. From Dongdajie, several bridges cross over to Bǎijiānlóu, the most atmospheric – and least crowded – part. If you arrive by public bus, you'll enter from Bǎijiānlóu. The main ticket office is at the opposite end of Nanxi Lu, which means you may be able to dodge the admission fee, though you'll need a ticket to enter any of the sights (the ticket covers entry to all of them). The scenic area is well signposted in English.

  BǎijiānlóuHISTORIC SITE

  (百间楼, Hundred Room Corridor )

  Oddly overlooked by most visitors, this stretch of 100 (or so) wooden row houses, flanking a narrow canal, is Nánxún's most charming spot. Most houses are still lived in, with residents running small tea shops on their waterfront patios.

  Zhangshiming's Former ResidenceHISTORIC BUILDING

  (张石铭旧居, Zhāng Shí Míng Jiùjū Nanxi Lu, 南溪路 )

  The grandest of Nánxún's wealthy merchant homes looks like a classic Chinese manor, with ornate carvings in wood, stone and brick – until you reach deep into the interior, which hides a European-style ballroom, complete with crown moulding, crystal chandelier and brocade drapery. Other European touches draw on both Renaissance and Baroque styles. The combined effect is both fascinating and bizarre, a well preserved portrait of the cultural exchange between China and the West at the turn
of the last century.

  4Sleeping

  Nánxún is an easy day trip from Hángzhōu, though there are a handful of inns here nestled among the canals if you choose to stay.

  Bayside InnINN$$

  (云水谣客栈, Yúnshuǐyáo Kèzhàn %0572 301 7919; 71 Dongdajie, 东大街71号 d from ¥360; aW)

  The best value inn on the water in Nánxún has clean, if compact, rooms with modern amenities and friendly staff, who try their best at English. All the rooms are a little different, so have a look around. Naturally the best ones have windows opening over the canal.

  5Eating

  Tourist restaurants line Nanxi Lu, which runs alongside the town's largest canal. For cheap eats head to Nandongjie (南东街), lined with noodle shops, just over Tōngjīn Bridge (通津桥; Tōngjīnqiáo) from Dongdajie.

  ZhuàngyuánlóuNOODLES$

  (状元楼 Nandongjie, 南东街 noodles ¥7-12; h5am-10pm)

  One of Nánxún's local specialities is shuāng jiāo miàn (双浇面), a kind of long thin wheat noodle in a rich, dark soy broth. This is the most popular shop in which to try it, though it looks nearly identical to others just like it (to spot it, look for the coal furnace outside). Once inside, you'll be led into the tiny kitchen to choose your toppings.

  8Getting There & Away

  Buses leave every 45 minutes (¥45, 1½ hours) from Hángzhōu’s north bus station (7.20am to 5.20pm); the last return bus is at 5.20pm.

  Buses also depart for:

  AShànghǎi ¥50, 2½ hours, frequent

  ASūzhōu ¥25, one hour, every 20 to 40 minutes (7am to 5.50pm)

  There is no direct bus from Nánxún to Wūzhèn; you'll need to take one of the hourly buses to Jiāxìng (嘉兴; ¥23, one hour) and transfer there for the hourly bus to Wūzhèn (¥11, one hour).

  Nánxún's bus station is at the back entrance to the scenic area. Cross the overpass and in 50m you'll see a sign pointing you to the main sights.

  THE BRIDGES OF TàISHùN COUNTY

  Soggy Tàishùn (泰顺), in southeast Zhèjiāng, is China's living bridge museum: there are hundreds of covered wooden bridges – many centuries old, in varying stages of preservation and crumble – scattered around the countryside. The best of those that are easily accessible are the four clustered around the village of Sìxī (泗溪), which sits on the confluence of two streams.

  From the nearby bus stop in Nánxī (南溪), it's a short 400m walk back through the village to Nánxī Bridge (南溪桥; Nánxī Qiáo ). What this level bridge lacks in grandeur it makes up for in usefulness: built in 1842, it's more local thoroughfare than tourist attraction.

  Next head back 200m to the main village junction and turn right. In 1km you can turn right again and take a 3km detour up to Nányáng Bridge (南阳桥; Nányáng Qiáo ), a level wooden cantilever bridge, built in 1870 and situated in the grassy hills above town. Otherwise veer left for Xīdōng Bridge (溪东桥; Xīdōng Qiáo; Creek East Bridge ), in Sìxī proper, another 500m. Easily identified by its dramatic winged roof and deep vermilion staining, this Ming dynasty arched wooden bridge was first built in 1570 and later rebuilt in 1827.

  From here, the village is well signposted in English. Follow signs to gracefully arching Běijiàn Bridge (北涧桥; Běijiàn Qiáo; North Stream Bridge ), the most picturesque of Sìxī's bridges, accessed by stone steps. It was originally built in 1674 and last rebuilt in 1803. Don't miss the 1000-year-old camphor tree just before it.

  Just past Běijiàn Bridge, at the far end of the village, is the Covered Bridge Culture Hall (廊桥文化展厅; Lángqiáo Wénhuà Zhǎntīng ), which has models and information (in English!) on other noteworthy bridges in the area. If you're feeling ambitious, you can hire one of the unofficial taxi drivers (¥150 to ¥400, depending on the route) who haunt the Nánxī bus stop to take you around. Make sure the driver understands where to go before setting out, as some might not know the location of all the bridges. This map (www.langqio.net/map.asp) comes in handy.

  GETTING THERE & AWAY

  To get to Sìxī you need to first get to Wēnzhōu (温州), which is serviced by frequent high-speed trains from Shànghǎi Hóngqiáo (¥178 to ¥226, four hours) and Hángzhōu East (¥129 to ¥153, three hours). High-speed trains arrive at Wēnzhōu South (温州火车南站; Wēnzhōu Huǒchē Nánzhàn), 15km from downtown, from where you'll need to take a taxi (¥40, 25 minutes) to Niúshān Transport Centre (牛山客运中心; Niúshān Kèyùn Zhōngxīn), Wēnzhōu's central bus station. The sleeper train from Shànghǎi South (soft/hard sleeper ¥186/288, 11 hours, 11.30pm) arrives at the more convenient main train station, from where you can catch local buses 21, 23 and 107 (¥2, 20 minutes, frequent) to Niúshān.

  At the bus station buy a ticket to Nánxī (南溪; ¥46, two hours, every 40 minutes 6.20am to 6.40pm) on the Tàishùn-bound bus. The last return bus leaves at 5pm; buy your ticket from the stall opposite the Nánxī bus stop, which has the timetable posted.

  If you find yourself overnighting in Wēnzhōu, the E-X Palm D'or Hotel (意杰金棕榈酒店; Yìjié Jīnzōnglǘ Jiǔdiàn %0577 8802 2222; www.expalmhotel.com; 23 Minhang Lu; 明航路23号 r from ¥600; pnaiW), 3km from the bus station (and 15km from the high-speed-train station), is a comfortable choice.

  Xīnyè 新叶

  %0571 / Pop 3000

  Cut with sparkling streams, centred on placid ponds and embraced by silent hills, the picturesque village of Xīnyè (新叶; ¥68, 8am-4pm) is populated by families sharing the surname Ye (叶) and an abundance of free-roaming chickens. The village is laid out in accordance with the traditional five element (五行; wǔ xíng) theory, so it's a balanced exercise in feng shui aesthetics. During spring, the village is framed by fields of bright yellow rapeseed.

  1Sights

  The elegant white Tuányún Pagoda (抟云塔; Tuányún Tǎ h8am-4pm) is the definitive image of Xīnyè and a good place to start a tour of the village. Built in 1567, the seven-storey tower symbolises hopes by its architects for a 'meteoric rise' for the village and generations to come. It's located near the tourist centre and next to Wénchāng Hall (文昌阁; Wénchāng Gé h8am-4pm), another noteworthy attraction. The latter contains a portrait of Confucius and an adjacent shrine (土地祠; tǔdì cí) to the village god (for good harvests). Smudged red Maoist slogans add their own narrative. Not far away, the Xīshān Ancestral Temple (西山祠堂; Xīshān Cítáng h8am-4pm) is the highest-ranking ancestral temple in the village and dates to the Yuan dynasty.

  The Hall of Good Order (有序堂; Yǒuxù Táng h8am-4pm) is central to the village; its front door does not open so its accessible side door faces out onto pyramid-shaped Dàofēng Mountain (道峰山; Dàofēng Shān), across the waters of half-moon shaped South Pond (南塘; Nántáng), from where eight alleys radiate out through the village. Originally built in 1290 and rebuilt during the Republic, the hall contains some astonishing wood carvings of a deer, small birds and a monkey in the trees. At the end of the day, sit out next to the pond and watch old folk gathering to chat.

  Shuāngměi Hall (双美堂; Shuāngměi Táng h8am-4pm) is another lovely wood-panelled structure containing intricate and exquisite carvings above pillars. At the time of research, Chóngrén Temple (崇仁堂; Chóngrén Táng h8am-4pm), located next to Half Moon Pond (半月塘; Bànyuè Táng), was undergoing reconstruction.

  The village is signposted in Chinese; you can get a map at the tourist centre. The admission fee covers all the village sights; hold onto your ticket for entry.

  4Sleeping

  There are several guesthouses here and you'll see signs posted around the village.

  Dàojīn RénjiāGUESTHOUSE$

  (道金人家 %159 8816 0523; r ¥100)

  A reliable option inside the village, with well kept but basic singles and doubles and meal service. The easiest way to get here from the bus stop is to continue down the main road and then turn right on the market lane; follow it around the bend and look for the guesthouse down an alley on the right.

  There are
also signs in English directing you from nearby South Pond.

  5Eating

  Xīnyè has just a couple of small eateries, though all guesthouses offer meals.

  8Information

  The nearest international ATMs are in Xīn'ānjiāng or Jīnhuá.

  8Getting There & Away

  There is a direct bus service from Hángzhōu's main bus station (¥61, two hours, 6.35am) and also from Hángzhōu’s west bus station (¥61, two hours, 8.20am and 1.50pm). A return bus leaves at 12.45pm.

  Xīnyè also works as a convenient day trip from Zhūgě: buses to Xīnyè (¥4, 30 minutes) depart at 7.45am, 10.20am, 1.30pm and 5.15pm and return at 6.10am, 8.30am, noon and 3.20pm.

  To get to the village from the bus dropoff, turn right and follow the stone path for a few minutes. Note that to get an admission ticket covering the sights, you'll need to go to the tourist centre at the far northeast corner of the village.

  Zhūgě 诸葛

  %0579 / Pop 4000

  Photogenic Zhūgě (诸葛; 7.30am-5pm summer, 8am-4.30pm winter; ¥100; www.zhugevillage.cn) is a fascinating composition of traditional Chinese village architecture and feng shui planning: the village was designed according to the bāguà (八卦; eight trigrams) of the I Ching. Included in Zhūgě's meticulous plans are numerous snaking cobblestone alleyways – some only wide enough for one person to pass – intentionally designed (for purposes of protection) for outsiders to get hopelessly lost. This is naturally one of the pleasures of visiting.