Cháoyáng CaveCAVE
(朝阳洞, Cháoyáng Dòng MAP GOOGLE MAP )
At the jutting point that marks the boundary between One Hundred Step Beach and One Thousand Step Beach, 'Sun-facing' Cave is a small, rarely visited grotto with altars inside to Guanyin. The sound of the roaring waves here is said to imitate the chanting of the Buddha; it's also known as the island's best sunrise spot.
Shàncái CaveCAVE
(善财洞, Shàncái Dòng MAP GOOGLE MAP )
This cave is named after a boy attendant to Guanyin, often seen in Chinese Buddhist temples. He's also known as the 'child god of wealth' and you'll see visitors pulling out money for him to bless. There's a path leading here from Guānyīn Cave.
Fódǐng MountainMOUNTAIN
(佛顶山, Fódǐng Shān MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥5)
A steep but beautifully shaded half-hour climb can be made up Fódǐng Mountain – Buddha’s Summit Peak – the highest point on the island. This is also where you will find Huìjì Temple. Watch devout pilgrims and Buddhist nuns stop every three steps to either bow or kneel in supplication. The less motivated take the cable car (索道; suǒdào, one-way/return ¥40/70, 6.30am-5pm).
The Xiāngyún Pavilion (香云亭; Xiāngyún Tíng) is a pleasant spot for a breather.
Huìjì TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(慧济禅寺, Huìjì Chánsì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥5; h5.30am-6.30pm)
Less grand than the temples at sea level, hilltop Huìjì draws pilgrims who make the climb up Fódǐng Mountain. The temple has a small vegetarian canteen (慧济禅寺素菜馆, Huìjì Chánsì Sùcàiguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; breakfast ¥5, lunch & dinner ¥10; h4.30-6.30am, 9am-noon, 3.30-5.30pm; v) for post-hike sustenance.
Pǔtuóshān, Zhèjiāng | XIA YUAN/GETTY IMAGES ©
4Sleeping
Most hotels on Pǔtuóshān aim squarely at tour groups and holidaying Chinese, with prices to match. Room rates are generally discounted from Sunday to Thursday. Larger hotels have shuttle buses to and from the pier.
As you leave the arrivals building, local hotel touts flapping plastic photo placards will descend; these rooms are generally at the cheaper end in a nearby village. You can do your own legwork in the villages of Xīshān Xīncūn (西山新村), a short walk over the hill to the west from the ferry terminal, and Lóngwān Cūn (龙湾村), around a 15-minute walk east of the ferry terminal. Look for the characters ‘内有住宿’, which means rooms are available. All the rooms are very similar, going for around ¥150 on a weekday, and double at weekends; bargain if you can.
Chánzōng Rúshì Sea View HotelHOTEL$$
(禅宗如是大酒店, Chánzōng Rúshì Dàjiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0580 669 6898; 1 Meicen Lu; 没岑路1号 d from ¥600)
It's not the most scenic area of the island but you can't beat the location for convenience – just steps from the jetty. It's worth paying an extra 25% to upgrade to a seaview room; nonview rooms have windows but are dark. Chánzōng Rúshì is a step up from a basic guesthouse and good value for Pǔtuóshān. Discounts likely midweek.
Hǎibiān RénjiāGUESTHOUSE$$
(海边人家 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %130 5984 6649; 77, Bldg 34, Longwan Village, 龙湾村34幢77号 r from ¥300; W)
This very clean budget choice up the steps in Lóngwān Village and not far from Gold Beach in the southeast of the island has 10 rooms with showers (including a sweet attic room with a skylight) and a tip-top, clean ambience. There's no English spoken but the owners are hard-working and efficient. You're likely to get a discount during the week.
Landison Pǔtuóshān ResortHOTEL$$$
(雷迪森广场酒店, Léidísēn Guǎngchǎng Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0580 669 0666; www.landisonputuoshan.com; 115 Fayu Lu, 法雨路115号 tw with/without balcony ¥1588/2588; ais)
One of the island's fanciest places to stay, the Landison adds little touches of serenity like bowls of floating orchid petals and Buddhist statuary, though the whole place could use freshening up. Rooms, spacious and with plenty of natural light, surround a courtyard with an 800-year-old camphor tree; some have balconies. Weekday discounts bring rooms down to ¥1000, plus a 15% service charge.
5Eating
Pǔtuóshān dining is largely seafood and hotel restaurants and therefore expensive. Less expensive are the makeshift restaurants set up by villagers in hillside Lóngwān Cūn (龙湾村); when the weather's good look for plastic tables and chairs. You can also get noodles (from ¥20) on Meicen Lu, just east of the ferry port. The best places to eat are the vegetarian canteens inside the temples; both Pǔjì and Huìjì have them.
ZǎozǐshùVEGETARIAN$$
(枣子树 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 84-86 Meicen Lu, 梅岑路84-6号 dishes ¥28-108; h10.30am-9.30pm; v)
Far more upscale (and with prices to match) than a typical temple canteen, Zǎozǐshù serves up delicacies like stir-fried tea mushrooms (干煸茶菇; gānbiān chágū) and stewed papaya with snow lotus seed (瓜田雪莲; guātián xuělián). It's part of the Meicen Restaurants complex; look for the English sign inside that says 'vegetarian life style'.
8Information
Wi-fi is easy to come by; most accommodations have it.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 85-7 Meicen Lu, 梅岑路85-7号 h8am-noon & 1.30-4.30pm)
Currency exchange and a 24-hour ATM that accepts international cards. There are several different banks here, on what is dubbed ‘Financial Street’.
China MobileTELEPHONE
(中国移动, Zhōngguó Yídòng GOOGLE MAP ; 85-3 Meicen Lu, 梅岑路85-3号 h8am-5pm)
For mobile phone SIM cards.
China PostPOST
(中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; 124 Meicen Lu, 梅岑路124号 h8am-5pm summer, 8am-4.30pm winter)
ClinicMEDICAL
(诊所, Zhěnsuǒ GOOGLE MAP ; %0580 609 3102; 95 Meicen Lu, 梅岑路95号 h8am-5pm)
Industrial & Commercial Bank of ChinaBANK
(ICBC, 工商银行, Gōngshāng Yínháng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 85-15 Meicen Lu, 梅岑路 h8-11am & 2-5pm)
Forex currency exchange.
Left Luggage OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(行李寄存, Xínglǐ Jìcúnchù MAP GOOGLE MAP ; per day ¥5-10; h6.45am-4.15pm)
At the ferry terminal and also at the Zhōushān Pǔtuó Tourist Destination Service Centre, if you want to leave large luggage behind.
Tourist Service CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(旅游咨询中心, Lǚyóu Zīxún Zhōngxīn GOOGLE MAP ; %0580 319 1919; h8.30am-4.30pm)
8Getting There & Away
Getting to Pǔtuóshān looks daunting as it requires multiple forms of transportation (most visitors do it on a package tour). Even coming from Níngbō, the nearest major hub, the journey takes a minimum of three hours. However, transfers are seamless and the construction of bridges lashing the principle islands of the Zhōushān archipelago to the mainland means the journey is largely made by bus (unless you choose otherwise).
First you need to get to Pǔtuó Central bus station (普陀中心站; Pǔtuó zhōngxīnzhàn), also called Shěnjiāmén (沈家门), on the island of Zhōushān. Buses depart from:
AHángzhōu south ¥65, four hours, hourly
ANíngbō south ¥52, 90 minutes, frequent from 5.55am
AShànghǎi south ¥130 to ¥220, five hours, every 40 minutes
From Pǔtuó Central you'll be immediately funnelled onto a minibus (¥10) that will take you the last 10 minutes to the dockside Zhōushān Pǔtuó Tourist Destination Service Center (舟山旅游目的地服务中心; Zhōushān Lǚyóu Mùdìdì Fúwù Zhōngxīn) on Zhūjiājiān (朱家尖), where you get your ferry ticket (¥25) and admission ticket to the island. The crossing from here takes just 10 minutes. Ferries depart frequently between 6.30am and 5.30pm, after which there half-hourly departures until 8.30pm and a last boat at 9.50pm.
The other option is the slow overnight ferry direct from Shànghǎi, which takes 12 hours. From Shànghǎi, the boat leaves at 7.
30pm on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, reaching Pǔtuóshān at around 8am. In the other direction, it leaves on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 4pm (winter) or 5pm (summer), reaching Shànghǎi at around 6am. Tickets cost anywhere from ¥139 (4th class) to ¥499 (special class); it’s easy to upgrade (bǔpiào) once you’re on-board. In Pǔtuóshān boats depart from the main ferry terminal (普陀山客运码头; Pǔtuóshān Kèyùn Mǎtou MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0580 609 1121); in Shànghǎi, from Wusong Passenger Transportation Centre, in the north of the city. On Pǔtuóshān, ferry tickets can be bought at the ticket office at the jetty.
The nearest airport is at Zhōushān (Pǔtuóshān) on the neighbouring island of Zhūjiājiān (朱家尖); get the ferry from the dock.
8Getting Around
Minibuses zip from the passenger ferry terminal to various points around the island, including Pǔjì Temple (¥5), One Thousand Step Beach (¥8), Fǎyǔ Temple (¥10) and the cable car station (¥10), leaving every 20 minutes or when full between 7am and 4.30pm. There are more bus stations at Pǔjì Temple, Fǎyǔ Temple and other spots around the island serving the same and other destinations. If you're heading to Pǔjì Temple and the sights in the south of the island, walking is fine.
Níngbō 宁波
%0574 / Pop 5.77 million
Níngbō (宁波), an ancient harbour city, has been an important trading port for millennia, and today is one of China's busiest. One of the five ports opened during the Treaty of Nanjing in 1842, it has a former foreign concession, Lǎo Wàitān (老外滩), now a vibrant, pedestrian-only entertainment district along the Yǒng River. For travellers, Níngbō is primarily a waypoint on the journey to Pǔtuóshān.
4Sleeping
Should you find yourself overnighting in Níngbō, the city's main east–west thoroughfare Zhongshan Lu (中山路) is lined with midrange business hotels, including many chains, such as 7 Days Inn. There are more hotels, as well as some more upscale options (including international chains), in Lǎo Wàitān.
Nányuàn Wénchāng Business HotelBUSINESS HOTEL$$
(南苑文昌商务酒店, Nányuàn Wénchāng Shāngwù Jiǔdiàn %0574 5586 3999; 2 Wenchang Lu, 文昌路2号 s/d ¥298/398; naW)
With it's convenient location just off Zhongshan Lu, 2km either way from the train station or Lǎo Wàitān, and just seconds from subway line 1, Nányuàn Wénchāng is an easy choice. Rooms are spacious, clean and modern and the savvy manager speaks decent English. Wi-fi is fast and there's a no-smoking floor, too.
5Eating
Tiānyī Guǎngchǎng (天一广场), Níngbō's spiderweb-shaped central square is full of restaurants offering an international spread of cuisines, including plenty of wallet-friendly fast-food joints and a supermarket.
GāngyāgǒuDUMPLINGS$
(缸鸭狗 68 Shuijing Jie, 水晶街68号, Tiānyī Guǎngchǎng, 天一广场 dishes ¥8-48; h10.30am-9.30pm)
Gāngyāgǒu has been making Níngbō's signature dumplings (宁波汤圆; Níngbō tāngyuán; six for ¥10), silky boiled rice cakes stuffed with sugar-spiked ground sesame, since 1926. They come in more inventive flavours too, such as rose (玫瑰; méiguī) and pumpkin (南瓜; nánguā). You can make a meal out of it by ordering some xiǎolóngbāo (小笼包; soup dumplings; ¥19 to ¥36). There's a picture menu.
8Information
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng Waima Lu, 外马路 h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri)
Currency exchange and a 24-hour ATM in Lǎo Wàitān.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Buses to Pǔtuó central bus station (普陀中心站; Pǔtuó zhōngxīnzhàn), also known as Shěnjiāmén (沈家门), from where you can travel onward to Pǔtuóshān, leave frequently from Níngbō's south bus station (汽车南站; Qìchē Nánzhàn 408 Jiaoshuiqiao Lu; 角水桥路408号 ).
Buses also run frequently between the south bus station and Hángzhōu (¥65 to ¥75, two hours).
Train
Níngbō is well connected to China's high-speed rail network. Destinations include:
AHángzhōu East ¥71, one hour, frequent
AJīnhuá ¥145, two hours, seven daily
AShànghǎi Hóngqiáo ¥97 to ¥144, two hours, frequent
8Getting Around
Níngbō has just one train station for high-speed and ordinary trains, 3km south of downtown. The south bus station is just across the plaza from the train station's south exit.
Subway line 1 runs east–west along Zhongshan Lu, stopping at Tiānyī Guǎngchǎng; rides cost ¥2 to ¥3. Taxis start at ¥11.
Shàoxīng 绍兴
%0557 / Pop 2.16 million
Sprawling, ancient Shàoxīng (绍兴), built on a network of canals, is among the oldest cities in the province. Unlike the more touristy water towns, which have concentrated historic areas, Shàoxīng is a contemporary city marbled with old, where modern housing blocks are shot through with rivulets and white-washed homes. The city is also the birthplace of many influential and colourful figures, including the writer Lu Xun.
1Sights
Many of Shàoxīng's sights are related to Lu Xun (1881–1936), China’s first great modern novelist, who lived here until he went abroad to study. (He later returned to China, but was forced to hide out in Shànghǎi’s French Concession when the Kuomintang decided his books were too dangerous). These are clustered on the cobblestone pedestrian area known as Lǔxùn Native Place (鲁迅故里; Lǔxùn Gùlǐ Luxun Zhonglu; 鲁迅中路 h8.30am-5pm). The most interesting of the bunch is the Sānwèi Shūwū (三味书屋), the one-room schoolhouse where the author studied as a boy. There are also two residences through which you can stroll. Entry is free, though you'll need to show your passport.
From here you can walk north along the quays, some of which are shaded with wooden overhangs, past quiet slices of residential life. The most noteworthy among the numerous stone bridges (some ancient and many still in use) you'll pass is Bāzǐ Bridge (八子乔; Bāzi Qiáo ), shrouded in ivy and shaped like the character for lucky number eight (八; bā). It dates to the first years of the 13th century.
Two kilometres west of Bāzǐ Bridge is Cāngqiáo Street (仓桥直街; Cāngqiáo Zhíjiē ), a restored stretch of old shophouses, several of which now house cafes.
4Sleeping
Lǔxùn Native Place Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(老台门鲁迅故里国际青年旅舍, Lǎotáimén Lǔxùn Gùlǐ Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě %0575 8508 0288; www.yhachina.com/ls.php?id=260; 558 Xinjian Nanlu, 新建南路558号 dm ¥55, d ¥198-398; aiW)
Filling the meandering corridors of a centuries-old courtyard house, this hostel is right in line with the city's other historic sites. The renovations are a bit patchwork but the rooms are clean and comfortable. There's also a restaurant and lounge where you can unwind with some Shàoxīng wine. Staff speak some English and are friendly.
The hostel is just south of Lǔxùn Native Place, on a small road running perpendicular from the tourist strip. It's also a five-minute walk from the BRT station on Zhongxing Zhonglu (中兴中路).
5Eating
Gāo Lǎotài Nǎiyóu XiǎopānDESSERTS$
(高老太奶油小攀 608 Xinjian Nanlu, 新建南路608号 tart ¥3; h8.30am-9pm)
Shàoxīng's custard tarts are different from the ones you find in Shànghǎi or Macau, with thin crisp shells, the lightest of custard and wispy caps of meringue. Get 'em to go from this tiny stand.
oXiánhēng JiǔdiànZHEJIANG$$
(咸亨酒店 %0557 8512 7179; 179 Luxun Zhonglu, 鲁迅中路179号 dishes ¥20-55; h10.30am-2.30pm & 4.30-8.30pm)
Xiánhēng Jiǔdiàn is a fantastic, if touristy, place to sample local food and drink. Dishes include dried broad beans stewed in fennel water (茴香豆; huíxiāng dòu) and 'drunk' river crab (醉蟹; zuì xiè) that has been pickled and cooked with wine vinasse, the residue from the winemaking process. Order Shàoxīng wine from the counter out front.
You'll need to first purchase a prepaid card (minimum ¥100), which you'll use to pu
rchase dishes inside. The remaining balance and deposit will be returned to you when you return the card. The restaurant is easily spotted by its outdoor seating, just west of Lǔxùn Native Place.
8Getting There & Around
Frequent high-speed trains run between Hángzhōu East and Shàoxīng North (¥20 to ¥63, 20 minutes); however, the high-speed train station is far north of the city, either 30 minutes in a taxi (¥50) or an hour on the BRT1 express bus (¥4). There are seven K trains daily between 7am and 2.12pm from either Hángzhōu or Hángzhōu East that run to Shàoxīng train station (¥11 to ¥13, one hour), which is downtown.
Frequent buses also run from Hángzhōu to Shàoxīng Passenger Transport Centre (¥24 to ¥27, one hour), although the bus station is also north of the city centre.
Shàoxīng taxis start at ¥7.
Shànghǎi
Sights
Activities
Tours
Festivals & Events
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Zhujiajio
Shànghǎi
%021 / Pop 24.26 million
Why Go?
Lonely Planet China Page 55