You can’t see the Great Wall from space, but you’d have a job missing Shànghǎi (上海). One of the country’s largest and most vibrant cities, Shànghǎi somehow typifies modern China while being unlike anywhere else in the land. Shànghǎi is real China, but – rather like Hong Kong or Macau – just not the China you had in mind.
This is a city of action, not ideas. You won’t spot many Buddhist monks contemplating the dharma, oddball bohemians or wild-haired poets handing out flyers, but skyscrapers will form before your eyes. Shànghǎi best serves as an epilogue to your China experience: submit to its debutante charms after you’ve had your fill of dusty imperial palaces and bumpy 10-hour bus rides. From nonstop shopping to skyscraper-hopping to bullet-fast Maglev trains and glamorous cocktails – this is Shànghǎi.
When to Go
ASummer is peak season but it’s hot and sticky with heavy rain; spring and late September to October are optimal (neither too hot nor rainy). Winter is cold and clammy.
Best Places to Eat
A Yang’s Fry Dumplings
A El Willy
A Table No 1 by Jason Atherton
A Din Tai Fung
A Lost Heaven
A Fú Hé Huì
Best Places to Sleep
A Fairmont Peace Hotel
A Mandarin Oriental Pudong
A Kevin’s Old House
A Waterhouse at South Bund
A Urbn
Shànghǎi Highlights
1 The Bund Strolling down the promenade or raising an evening glass to phosphorescent Pǔdōng
2 Shànghǎi Museum Loading up on Chinese culture’s greatest hits
3 Skyline Admiring the curvature of the earth from atop the Shànghǎi Tower or the Shànghǎi World Financial Center
4 Rockbund Art Museum Catching up with the latest trends in contemporary Chinese art
5 Tiánzǐfáng Weaving through a forest of shoppers’ elbows in this charming shíkùmén warren
6 French Concession Putting on your best shoes and stepping out
7 East Nanjing Road Plunging into the neon-lit swell
8 Bund restaurants Dining at some of Shànghǎi’s signature restaurants, all with show-stopping views
9 Jade Buddha Temple Fathoming the fantastic at Shànghǎi’s most sacred shrine
a Yùyuán Gardens Seeking out a quiet pocket and sitting down
History
As the gateway to the Yangzi River (Cháng Jiāng), Shànghǎi (the name means ‘by the sea’) has long been an ideal trading port. However, although it supported as many as 50,000 residents by the late 17th century, it wasn’t until after the British opened their concession here in 1842 that modern Shànghǎi really came into being.
The British presence in Shànghǎi was soon followed by the French and Americans, and by 1853 Shànghǎi had overtaken all other Chinese ports. Built on the trade of opium, silk and tea, the city also lured the world’s great houses of finance, which erected grand palaces of plenty. Shànghǎi also became a byword for exploitation and vice; its countless opium dens, gambling joints and brothels managed by gangs were at the heart of Shànghǎi life. Guarding it all were the American, French and Italian marines, British Tommies and Japanese bluejackets.
After Chiang Kaishek’s coup against the communists in 1927, the Kuomintang cooperated with the foreign police and the Shànghǎi gangs, and with Chinese and foreign factory owners, to suppress labour unrest. Exploited in workhouse conditions, crippled by hunger and poverty, sold into slavery, excluded from the high life and the parks created by the foreigners, the poor of Shànghǎi had a voracious appetite for radical opinion. The Chinese Communist Party (CCP) was formed here in 1921 and, after numerous setbacks, ‘liberated’ the city in 1949.
The communists eradicated the slums, rehabilitated the city’s hundreds of thousands of opium addicts, and eliminated child and slave labour. These were staggering achievements; but when the decadence went, so did the splendour. Shànghǎi became a colourless factory town and political hotbed, and was the power base of the infamous Gang of Four during the Cultural Revolution.
Shànghǎi’s long slumber came to an abrupt end in 1990, with the announcement of plans to develop Pǔdōng, on the eastern side of the Huángpǔ River. Since then Shànghǎi’s burgeoning economy, leadership and intrinsic self-confidence have put it miles ahead of other Chinese cities. Its bright lights and opportunities have branded Shànghǎi a Mecca for Chinese (and foreign) economic migrants. In 2010, 3600 people were squeezed into every square kilometre, compared with 2588 per sq km in 2000 and by 2014, the city’s population had leaped to a staggering 24 million. Over nine million migrants make Shànghǎi home, colouring the local complexion with a jumble of dialects, outlooks, lifestyles and cuisines.
1Sights
The majority of sightseeing in Shànghǎi centres on the Bund and People's Square with its cluster of museums and lovely park. Roaming the Bund promenade provides a non-stop show of heritage architecture with views over the river to the futuristic skyscrapers of Pǔdōng. A quick ferry ride across will have you zipping up to the observation decks of the Shànghǎi Tower and the iconic Oriental Pearl TV Tower. Back on the Pǔxī side, it’s all about peeking inside historic mansions in the former French Concession and seeking out a much-needed culture hit in the sacred temples and traditional teahouses of the Old Town and Jìng’ān.
The Bund & People's Square
1Top Sights
1Shànghǎi MuseumC6
2Shànghǎi Urban Planning Exhibition HallC5
3The BundG3
4Yùyuán Gardens & BazaarH7
1Sights
5Bund History MuseumH2
6Chénxiānggé MonasteryG6
7Custom HouseG3
8East Nanjing RoadE3
9Holy Trinity ChurchF3
10Hongkong & Shanghai Bank BuildingG4
11Rockbund Art MuseumG2
12Shànghǎi Gallery of ArtG4
13Sky RingB1
14Yuanmingyuan RdG2
2Activities, Courses & Tours
15Huángpǔ River CruiseH5
4Sleeping
16Astor House HotelG1
17Bund Garden ShanghaiF4
18Fairmont Peace HotelG3
19Fish Inn BundE2
20JW Marriott Tomorrow SquareB5
21Metropolo Hotel – People's SquareD6
22Mingtown E-Tour Youth HostelB6
23Mingtown People's Square Youth HostelE6
24Peninsula HotelG2
25PhoenixD6
26Waldorf AstoriaH4
27Yangtze Boutique ShànghǎiC4
5Eating
28El WillyH5
29Huanghe Road Food StreetB4
30Jiājiā Soup DumplingsB4
31Light & SaltG2
32Lost HeavenG5
33M on the BundG4
34Mr & Mrs BundG3
35Nánxiáng Steamed Bun RestaurantH7
36No 1 WaitanyuanG2
37Yang's Fry DumplingsB4
38Yúxìn ChuāncàiE4
6Drinking & Nightlife
39BarbarossaB5
GlamG4
Long BarH4
40M1NTF4
41Mid-Lake Pavilion TeahouseH7
42PopG4
43VueH1
3Entertainment
Fairmont Peace Hotel Jazz BarG3
44House of Blues & JazzG4
45Shànghǎi Concert HallD7
46Shànghǎi Grand TheatreB6
47Yìfū TheatreD5
7Shopping
Amy Lin's PearlsA5
48Foreign Languages BookstoreE4
49Han City Fashion & Accessories PlazaA5
50Old StreetG7
51Shànghǎi Museum Art StoreC6
52Sūzhōu CobblersG4
Transport
53Buses to Zhūjiājiǎo (Pu'an Rd terminal)C7
The Bund & People's Square 外滩、人民广场
People's Square is ground central for Shànghǎi sightseeing with world-class museu
ms, art galleries and a beautiful park.
Architecture lovers will be in their element, with some of the finest and most varied examples you'll see anywhere in the world. From the parade of colonial styles along the Bund's promenade, to the framed panoramas of Pǔdōng's futuristic skyline, to the modern and art deco skyscrapers of People's Square, there's a lot to take in.
oThe BundARCHITECTURE
(外滩, Wàitān MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 3 East Zhongshan No 1 Rd; 3 中山东一路 mLine 2, 10 to East Nanjing Rd)
Symbolic of concession-era Shànghǎi, the Bund was the city’s Wall Street, a place of feverish trading and fortunes made and lost. Originally a towpath for dragging barges of rice, the Bund (an Anglo-Indian term for the embankment of a muddy waterfront) was gradually transformed into a grandiose sweep of the most powerful banks and trading houses in Shànghǎi.The optimum activity here is to simply stroll, contrasting the bones of the past with the futuristic geometry of Pǔdōng’s skyline.
The majority of the art deco and neoclassical buildings here were built in the early 20th century and presented an imposing – if strikingly un-Chinese – view for those nosing by boat into the busy port city. Today it has emerged as a designer retail and restaurant zone, and the city’s most exclusive boutiques, restaurants and hotels see the Bund as the only place to be. Evening visits are rewarded by electric views of Pǔdōng and the illuminated grandeur of the Bund. Other options include taking a boat tour on the Huángpǔ River or relaxing at some fabulous bars and restaurants. Huángpǔ Park, at the north end of the promenade, features the modest Bund History Museum (外滩历史纪念馆, Wàitān Lìshǐ Jìniànguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri; mLine 2, 10 to East Nanjing Rd, exit 7), which contains a collection of old photographs and maps.
Get here early for the intriguing sight of the morning exercises.
oShànghǎi Urban Planning Exhibition HallMUSEUM
(上海城市规划展示馆, Shànghǎi Chéngshì Guīhuà Zhǎnshìguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.supec.org; 100 Renmin Ave, entrance on Middle Xizang Rd; 人民大道100号 adult/child ¥30/15; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun, last entry 4pm; mLine 1, 2, 8 to People’s Square, exit 2)
Set over five levels, this modern museum covers Shànghǎi's urban planning history, tracing its development from swampy fishing village to modern-day megacity. Its mix of photography, models and interactive multimedia displays keeps things entertaining. The 1st floor covers the city's rise, including the establishment of the international settlement, and profiles its colonial architecture and shíkùmén (stone gate) housing. The most popular feature is on the 3rd floor – a visually stunning model showing a detailed layout of this megalopolis-to-be, plus an impressive Virtual World 3D wraparound tour.
oShànghǎi MuseumMUSEUM
(上海博物馆, Shànghǎi Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.shanghaimuseum.net; 201 Renmin Ave; 人民大道201号 h9am-5pm, last entry 4pm; c; mLine 1, 2, 8 to People's Square)F
This must-see museum escorts you through the craft of millennia and the pages of Chinese history. It's home to one of the most impressive collections in the land: take your pick from the archaic green patinas of the Ancient Chinese Bronzes Gallery through to the silent solemnity of the Ancient Chinese Sculpture Gallery; from the exquisite beauty of the ceramics in the Zande Lou Gallery to the measured and timeless flourishes captured in the Chinese Calligraphy Gallery.
Chinese painting, seals, jade, Ming and Qing furniture, coins and ethnic costumes are also on offer, intelligently displayed in well-lit galleries. The building itself is designed to resemble the shape of an ancient Chinese dǐng (three-legged cooking vessel). The excellent museum shop sells postcards, a rich array of books, and faithful replicas of the museum's ceramics and other pieces.
The audio guide is well worth the ¥40 (deposit ¥400 or your passport). Expect to spend half, if not most of, a day here.
Yuanmingyuan RoadAREA
(圆明园路, Yuánmíngyuán Lù MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mLine 2, 10 to East Nanjing Rd)
Like a smaller, more condensed version of the Bund, the pedestrianised, cobblestone Yuanmingyuan Rd is lined with a mishmash of colonial architecture. Running parallel with the Bund, just one block back, the road features some fine examples of renovated red-brick and stone buildings dating from the 1900s. Look for the art deco YWCA building (No 133) and Chinese Baptist Publication building (No 209), the ornate 1907 red-brick Panama Legation building (No 97) and the 1927 neoclassical Lyceum building.
Former British ConsulateHISTORIC BUILDING
(英国驻上海总领事馆, Yīngguó Zhù Shànghǎi Zǒng Lǐngshìguǎn GOOGLE MAP ; 33 East Zhongshan No 1 Rd; 33 中山東路 1 號 mLine 2, 10 to East Nanjing, exit 7)
The original British Consulate was one of the first foreign buildings to go up in Shànghǎi in 1852, though it was destroyed in a fire and replaced with the current structure in 1873. Now renovated, it is used as a financiers' club and restaurant, No 1 Waitanyuan (外滩源一号, Wàitān Yuán Yī Hào MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 5308 9803; www.wtysh.com; 33 East Zhongshan No 1 Rd; h中山东一路33号 platter for 2 persons ¥288; hhigh tea 2-5pm; mLine 2, 10 to East Nanjing Rd), which serves high tea. Also within the grounds are the former Consul’s Residence (1884) – now a flagship Patek Philippe store – and several century-old magnolia trees.
Hongkong & Shanghai Bank BuildingHISTORIC BUILDING
(HSBC Building, 汇丰大厦 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 12 East Zhongshan No 1 Rd; 中山东一路12号 mLine 2, 10 to East Nanjing Rd)
Adjacent to the Custom House, the Hongkong & Shanghai Bank building was constructed in 1923. The bank was first established in Hong Kong in 1864 and in Shànghǎi in 1865 to finance trade, and soon became one of the richest in Shànghǎi, arranging the indemnity paid after the Boxer Rebellion. The magnificent mosaic ceiling inside the entrance was plastered over until its restoration in 1997 and is therefore well preserved.
Custom HouseNOTABLE BUILDING
(自订的房子, Zì Dìng De Fángzi MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 13 East Zhongshan No 1 Rd; 中山东一路13号 mLine 2, 10 to East Nanjing Rd, exit 1)
The neoclassical Custom House, established at this site in 1857 and rebuilt in 1927, is one of the most important buildings on the Bund. Capping it is Big Ching, a bell modelled on London’s Big Ben. Clocks were by no means new to China, but Shànghǎi was the first city in which they gained widespread acceptance and the lives of many became dictated by a standardised, common schedule. During the Cultural Revolution, Big Ching was replaced with loudspeakers that blasted out revolutionary songs (‘The East is Red’) and slogans.
East Nanjing RoadAREA
(南京东路, Nánjīng Dōnglù MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mLine 2, 10 to East Nanjing Rd)
Linking the Bund with People’s Square is East Nanjing Rd, once known as Nanking Rd. The first department stores in China opened here in the 1920s, when the modern machine age – with its new products, automobiles, art deco styling and newfangled ideas – was ushered in. A glowing forest of neon at night, it’s no longer the cream of Shànghǎi shopping, but its pedestrian strip remains one of the most famous and crowded streets in China.
Shànghǎi Gallery of ArtGALLERY
(外滩三号沪申画廊, Wàitān Sānhào Hùshēn Huàláng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.shanghaigalleryofart.com; 3rd fl, Three on the Bund, 3 East Zhongshan No1 Rd; 中山东一路三号三楼 h10am-7pm; mLine 2, 10 to East Nanjing Rd)F
Take the lift up to the 3rd floor of Three on the Bund (外滩三号, Wàitān Sān Hào GOOGLE MAP ; 3 East Zhongshan No 1 Rd; 中山东一路3号 mLine 2, 10 to East Nanjing Rd) to this neat, minimalist art gallery showcasing current highbrow and conceptual Chinese art. It's all bare concrete pillars, ventilation ducts and acres of wall space; there are a couple of divans on which you can sit and admire the works on view.
MORNING EXERCISES ALONG THE BUND
Early risers wandering along the Bund are rewarded with the fascinating sight of locals doing their morning exercises, posed against the backdrop of Pǔdōng's skyline – there are brilliant phot
o opportunities to be had in the morning light.
You'll see myriad offbeat ways to get the circulation flowing, with everything from groups of taichi practitioners with synchronised hand fans, to those honing their sword-wielding techniques, to bunny hopping down stairs or walking backwards along the promenade.
Kite flying is also a popular pastime. It's an impressive sight as middle-aged men take control of these magnificent crafts as they soar to stunning heights.
Aim to get here around 7.30am (or earlier) as things wind up around 9am.
ROCKBUND ART MUSEUM
Rockbund Art MuseumMUSEUM
(RAM, 上海外滩美术馆, Shànghǎi Wàitān Měishùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.rockbundartmuseum.org; 20 Huqiu Rd; 虎丘路20号 adult/child ¥30/15; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; mLine 2, 10 to East Nanjing Rd)
Housed in the magnificent former Royal Asiatic Society building (1932) – once Shànghǎi's first museum – this world-class gallery behind the Bund focuses on contemporary Chinese and international art, with rotating exhibits year-round and no permanent collection. One of the city’s top modern-art venues, the building's interior and exterior are both sublime. Check out the unique art deco eight-sided bāguà (trigram) windows at the front, a fetching synthesis of Western modernist styling and traditional Chinese design.
Old Town 南市
That elusive sense of an olden-days Shànghǎi can be glimpsed through the sights of this neighbourhood: the temples, Yùyuán Gardens and old shíkùmén lanes.
oYùyuán Gardens & BazaarGARDENS, BAZAAR
(豫园、豫园商城, Yùyuán & Yùyuán Shāngchéng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Anren St; 安仁街 high/low season ¥40/30; h8.30am-5.15pm, last entry at 4.45pm; mLine 10 to Yuyuan Garden)
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