Although slightly out of the action, this hostel is almost next door to Luban Rd metro station, so transport is sorted. Rooms are clean and simple with pine furniture and flooring, TV and kettle. There are women-only, men-only and mixed four- to eight-bed dorms, and there's a bar-restaurant area with free pool table and free movie screenings. Wi-fi is in the public areas only.
Staff members speak English and are very friendly.
Yuèyáng HotelHOTEL$
(悦阳商务酒店, Yuèyáng Shāngwù Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6466 6767; 58 Yueyang Rd; 岳阳路58号 s ¥198, d ¥338-368; a; mHengshan Rd)
One of the best budget options in the French Concession that’s within easy walking distance of a metro station, Yuèyáng has well-kept spacious rooms with big double beds and laminated flooring. Shower rooms are clean and modern, although, annoyingly, the hot water isn’t always piping hot. Expect only small discounts, if any.
oQuintetB&B$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6249 9088; www.quintet-shanghai.com; 808 Changle Rd; 长乐路808号 d incl breakfast ¥850-1100; naW; mChangshu Rd)
This chic B&B has five homely double rooms in a 1930s townhouse full of character. Some of the rooms are small, but each is decorated with style, incorporating modern luxuries such as large-screen TVs and laptop-sized safes, with more classic touches such as wood-stripped floorboards and deep porcelain bathtubs. The loft room comes with a private rooftop terrace.
Staff members sometimes get a BBQ going in the downstairs restaurant terrace in summer. No sign – just buzz on the gate marked 808 and wait to be let in. Be aware there is no elevator.
oKevin’s Old HouseB&B$$
(老时光酒店, Lǎoshíguāng Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6248 6800; www.kevinsoldhouse.com; No 4, Lane 946, Changle Rd; 长乐路946弄4号 ste incl breakfast from ¥900; aW; mChangshu Rd)
Housed in a secluded 1927 four-storey French Concession villa, this lovely, quiet place is run by a friendly, English-speaking owner. Six spacious suites are spread throughout the house, featuring wooden floorboards, traditional Chinese furniture and a few antiques, as well as fridges, flat-screen TVs and washing machines. Suite 328 is the pick of the bunch.
There's an attached Italian restaurant with a long menu of pizza and pasta dishes.
oMagnolia Bed & BreakfastB&B$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 5403 5306; www.magnoliabnbshanghai.com; 36 Yanqing Rd; 延庆路36号 r ¥702-1296; aiW; mChangshu Rd)
Opened by Miranda Yao of the cooking school Kitchen at..., this cosy five-room B&B is located in a 1927 French Concession home. It’s Shànghǎi all the way, with original art deco features combined with comfort and design; a true labour of love. There are discounts for stays of seven nights or more. There's no front desk, so phone ahead before visiting.
oAndazLUXURY HOTEL$$$
(安达仕酒店, Āndáshì Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 2310 1234; http://shanghai.andaz.hyatt.com; 88 Songshan Rd; 嵩山路88号 r ¥1800-3300; aWs; mSouth Huangpi Rd)
Housed in a tower with retro ‘70s style windows, this fab hotel’s design-led lobby – a pronouncement of metal latticework – suggests an art space, a sensation that persists when you hunt for the open-plan reception (it’s on the right). Along curving corridors, guest rooms are cool and modern, with basins and bathtubs that glow in different colours, coffee machines and monumental flat-screen TVs.
With room design courtesy of Japanese interior designer Super Potato, all mod cons are operated by iPad, while views of Pǔxī or Pǔdōng – depending on your choice – range out beyond curved and chunky windows. Extra bonus: free drinks for guests in the bar during happy hour 6pm to 8pm daily. Discounts of up to 35% online.
oLangham XīntiāndìLUXURY HOTEL$$$
(新天地朗廷酒店, Xīntiāndì Lǎngtíng Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 2330 2288; xintiandi.langhamhotels.com; 99 Madang Rd; 马当路99号 r/ste ¥1800/2400; aWs; mSouth Huangpi Rd)
Xīntiāndì has become a magnet for luxury hotels, and they don’t come much nicer than this one. Its 357 smart, stylish rooms all feature huge floor-to-ceiling windows, plenty of space to spread out in, and an attention to the minute details that make all the difference: Japanese-style wooden tubs in some suites, heated bathroom floors, Nespresso machines, VPN wi-fi and fresh flowers.
Amenities include the much-lauded Cantonese restaurant T'ang Court, an indoor pool and the award-winning, stunning Chuan spa.
West Nanjing Rd & Jìng’ān
1Top Sights
1Jìng'ān TempleB3
2Activities, Courses & Tours
2Lóngwǔ Kung Fu CenterD3
4Sleeping
3Le Tour Traveler's RestA1
4PúlìB3
5UrbnA2
5Eating
6Co. Cheese Melt BarB2
7Dī Shuǐ DòngD3
8Din Tai FungC2
9Hǎi Dǐ LāoC1
10Pure and WholeA2
11SumerianC1
12Yang's Fry DumplingsD2
6Drinking & Nightlife
13Citizen CaféD3
14DogtownC1
15Helen'sD2
16Tailor BarA3
3Entertainment
17Shànghǎi Centre TheatreC2
7Shopping
18Jǐngdézhèn Porcelain ArtwareC2
8Information
19Australian ConsulateC2
20Canadian ConsulateA3
21Irish ConsulateC2
22UK ConsulateC1
23US ConsulateD2
Transport
24Jìng'ān Train Ticket OfficeA2
Jìng’ān
oLe Tour Traveler’s RestHOSTEL$
(乐途静安国际青年旅舍, Lètú Jìng’ān Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6267 1912; www.letourshanghai.com; 319 Jiaozhou Rd; 胶州路319号 dm ¥100-150, r ¥340-400; aiW; mLine 2, 7 to Jing’an Temple, exit 2)
Housed in a former towel factory, this fabulous youth hostel leaves most others hanging out to dry. You’ll pass a row of splendid shíkùmén (stone-gate houses) on your way down the alley to get here. The old-Shànghǎi textures continue once inside, with red-brick walls decorated in graffiti, polished concrete floors and reproduced stone gateways above doorways leading to simple but smart rooms and six-person dorms (with shared bathrooms).
Double rooms are not very spacious, but they have flat-screen TVs and they're clean. Rooms are ¥10 to ¥30 pricier on Fridays and Saturdays. The hostel also has small apartments next door for short- and long-term rental. The ground floor has a ping-pong table, a pool table and wi-fi, all of which are free to use, and there’s a fine rooftop bar-restaurant with outdoor seating. Bicycles can also be rented for ¥30 per day.
It's down an alley off Jiaozhou Rd.
oUrbnBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(雅悦酒店, Yǎ Yuè Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 5153 4600; www.urbnhotels.com; 183 Jiaozhou Rd; 胶州路183号 r incl breakfast ¥1400-1700; a; mLine 2, 7 to Jing’an Temple, exit 1)S
Within a former post office, China’s first carbon-neutral hotel not only incorporates recyclable materials and low-energy products where possible, it also calculates its complete carbon footprint – including staff commutes and delivery journeys – and offsets it by donating money to environmentally friendly projects. The 26 open-plan rooms are beautifully designed using recycled brick and timber from a French Concession shíkùmén, with low furniture and sunken living areas that exude space.
PúlìLUXURY HOTEL$$$
(璞丽酒店, Púlì Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 3203 9999; www.thepuli.com; 1 Changde Rd; 常德路1号 d from ¥2300; aWs; mLine 2, 7 to Jing’an Temple, exit 9)
With open-space rooms divided by hanging silk screens and an understated beige-and-mahogany colour scheme accentuated by the beauty of a few well-placed orchids, the Púlì is an exquisite choice. The Zen calm and gorgeous design of this 26-storey hotel make a strong case for stylish skyscrapers. Other perks are the free minibar and coffee pod machine. Book ahead for discounts of up to 60%.
> Pǔdōng
oMandarin Oriental PudongHOTEL$$$
(上海浦东文华东方酒店, Shànghǎi Pǔdōng Wénhuá Dōngfāng Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 2082 9888; www.mandarinoriental.com; 111 South Pudong Rd; 浦东南路111号 d ¥1800-2800, ste from ¥3600; aiWs; mLujiazui)
Slightly tucked away from the Lùjiāzuǐ five-star hotel melee in a sheltered riverside spot, the 362-room Mandarin Oriental is a visual feast, from the beautiful oval chandeliers and multicoloured glass murals (depicting forests) in the lobby to the excellent dining choices, such as Fifty 8° Grill. All five-star expectations are naturally met, but it's the meticulous service that ices this cake.
Sumptuous rooms aside, there's a 24-hour pool and gym, spa and fantastic views. The address may seem a bit stranded, but it's a short walk to the heart of Lùjiāzuǐ and there's a complimentary shuttle bus within the area.
oRitz-Carlton Shanghai PudongHOTEL$$$
(上海浦东丽思卡尔顿酒店, Shànghǎi Pǔdōng Lìsī Kǎ'ěrdùn Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 2020 1888; www.ritzcarlton.com; Shànghǎi IFC, 8 Century Ave; 世纪大道8号 d from ¥2800; aiWs; mLujiazui)
From the stingray-skin-effect wallpaper in the lift to its stunning alfresco Flair bar and exceptional service, the exquisitely styled 285-room Ritz-Carlton in the Shànghǎi IFC is a peach. The beautifully designed rooms – a blend of feminine colours, eye-catching art deco motifs, chic elegance and dramatic Bund-side views – are a stylistic triumph. Open-plan bathrooms (divided by a screen) feature deep and inviting free-standing bathtubs.
oPark HyattHOTEL$$$
(柏悦酒店, Bóyuè Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6888 1234; www.parkhyattshanghai.com; Shànghǎi World Financial Center, 100 Century Ave; 世纪大道100号世界金融中心 d from ¥2200; aiWs; mLujiazui)
Spanning the 79th to 93rd floors of the towering Shànghǎi World Financial Center, this soaring hotel sees Pǔdōng’s huge buildings (bar the Shànghǎi Tower) dwarfing into Lego blocks as lobby views graze the tip of the Jīnmào Tower. Smaller than the Grand Hyatt, it's a subdued but stylish 174-room affair with a deco slant, high-walled corridors of brown fabric and grey stone textures.
Rooms are luxurious, with nifty features (mist-free bathroom mirror containing a small TV screen, automatically opening toilet seats). All come with huge TVs, deep bathtubs, leather chaise longues, sumptuous beds and outrageously good views. There are a few dining options including 100 Century Avenue with its exceptional views. Access is from the south side of the tower.
Hóngkǒu & North Shànghǎi
oAstor House HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$$
(浦江饭店, Pǔjiāng Fàndiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6324 6388; www.astorhousehotel.com; 15 Huangpu Rd; 黄浦路15号 d ¥1880-2580, 'celebrity' r ¥3080, ste from ¥4800; aiW; mTiantong Rd)
Stuffed with history (and perhaps a ghost or two), this old-timer shakes up an impressive cocktail from select ingredients: a location just off the Bund; old-world, Shànghǎi-era charm; great discounts; and colossal rooms. It's played host to the likes of Albert Einstein and Charlie Chaplin, and the original polished wooden floorboards, corridors and galleries pitch the mood somewhere between British public school and Victorian asylum.
There’s enough wood panelling to build an ark; you could shunt a bed into the capacious bathrooms; and some of the rooms on the higher floors have river views. Pop up the stairs and hang a left to a small museum along the corridor to explore the history of the hotel. Discounts of 40% are common.
West Shànghǎi
Rock & Wood International Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(老木国际青年旅舍, Lǎomù Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè GOOGLE MAP ; %021 3360 2361; No 278, Lane 615, Zhaohua Rd; 昭化路615弄278号 dm ¥75-80, s ¥110-120, d ¥180-190; aiW; mWest Yan'an Rd)
With a serene bamboo-edged pond in its courtyard, and a bright and inviting lounge and bar area, this is an affordable and tranquil choice that sees a steady stream of travellers. Rooms and mixed dorms are clean and quiet, and the deluxe double (¥270 to ¥280) is the nicest of the bunch – basic but clean and comfy with a four-poster pine bed. The staff is very welcoming.
The cheapest single has a shared shower room. There's no kitchen but guests can use the fridge, and the hostel restaurant serves well-priced Western and Chinese cuisine, as well as great coffee.
PRICE RANGES
SLEEPING
The following price ranges represent the price per night of an en suite double room in high season.
$ Less than ¥500
$$ ¥500–¥1300
$$$ More than ¥1300
EATING
The following price ranges refer to a main course.
$ less than ¥60
$$ ¥60–¥160
$$$ more than ¥160
5Eating
Brash, stylish and forward-thinking, Shànghǎi’s culinary scene typifies the city’s craving for foreign trends and tastes. As much an introduction to regional Chinese cuisine as a magnet for talented chefs from around the globe, Shànghǎi has staked a formidable claim as the Middle Kingdom’s hottest dining destination.
The Bund & People's Square
oJiājiā Soup DumplingsDUMPLINGS$
(佳家汤包, Jiājiā Tāngbāo MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 90 Huanghe Rd; 黄河路90号 12 dumplings ¥25; h7am-10pm; mLines 1, 2, 8)
A fixture on Huanghe Road Food Street, this humble tiled restaurant is a real contender for one of Shànghǎi's best dumpling places, with juicy pork and crab xiǎolóngbāo served up in bamboo steamers. Expect a queue and to share a table.
oYúxìn ChuāncàiSICHUAN$
(渝信川菜, Yú Xìn Chuāncài MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6361 1777; 5th fl, Huasheng Tower, 399 Jiujiang Rd; 九江路399号华盛大厦5楼 dishes ¥20-98; h11am-2.30pm & 5-9.30pm; W; mLine 2, 10 to East Nanjing Rd)
At the top of Shànghǎi’s best Sìchuān restaurants, Yúxìn is a dab hand in the art of blistering chillies and numbing peppercorns. All-stars include the 'mouth-watering chicken' starter (口水鸡; kǒushuǐ jī), or opt for the simply smoking spicy chicken (辣子鸡; làzǐ jī), the crispy camphor tea duck (half/whole ¥38/68) or catfish in chilli oil.
There's an occasionally misfiring English menu (‘Impregnable Sibao’ anyone?). Take the lift.
oYang’s Fry DumplingsDUMPLINGS$
(小杨生煎馆, Xiǎoyáng Shēngjiān Guǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 97 Huanghe Rd; 黄河路97号 dumplings from ¥8; h6.30am-8.30pm; mLine 1, 2, 8 to People’s Square)
The city’s most famous place for sesame-seed-and-scallion-coated shēngjiān (生煎; fried dumplings) gets nil points for decor or service, but queues can stretch to the horizon as eager diners wait for scalding shēngjiān to be dished into mustard-coloured bowls. Watch out for boiling meat juices that unexpectedly jet down your shirt (and your neighbour’s). Per liǎng (两; four dumplings) ¥8.
Huanghe Road Food StreetCHINESE$
(黄河路美食街, Huánghé Lù Měishí Jiē MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mLine 1, 2, 8 to People’s Square)
With a prime central location near People’s Park, Huanghe Rd covers all the bases from cheap lunches to late-night post-theatre snacks. You’ll find large restaurants, but Huanghe Rd is best for dumplings – get ‘em fried at Yang’s or served up in bamboo steamers across the road at Jiājiā Soup Dumplings.
oLight & SaltINTERNATIONAL$$$
(光与盐, Guāng Yǔ Yán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6361 1086; www.light-n-salt.com; 6th fl, YMCA Bldg, 133 Yuanmingyuan Rd; 圆明园路133号6楼 mains ¥167-330, set lunch 2-/3-course ¥158/188; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 11.30am-4pm & 6-10.30pm Sat & Sun; mLine 2, 10 to East Nanjing Rd)
In the elegant art deco former YMCA building, this classy yet casual restaurant is divided into different sections to suit many moods. Diners will appreciate smart leather booths, dining tables and an outdoor terrace with brilliant Bund views from which you can enjoy contemporary European-influenced mains. If you're needing a drink, check out quality cocktails at its speakeasy-style Library Distillery, or enjoy a coffee in
the plant-filled cafe stocked with art and design books.
oUltravioletGASTRONOMY$$$
(紫外线, Zǐwàixiàn www.uvbypp.cc; dinner from ¥5000; hdinner Tue-Sat; mLine 2, 10 to East Nanjing Rd)
You’ve probably paired food and wine before, but what about coupling an illuminated apple-wasabi communion wafer with purple candles and a specially designed cathedral scent? Welcome to China’s most conceptual dining experience. The evening’s diners gather first at Mr & Mrs Bund for an aperitif before they’re whisked away to a secret location.
The meal consists of 20 courses – each accompanied by a different sensory mood (sounds, scents and images). This is Paul Pairet’s masterpiece, years in the making. Revolving around his signature mischievous creations, a dinner here is bound to be unlike anything you’ve ever experienced before.
Reservations must be made online; book months in advance.
oMr & Mrs BundFRENCH$$$
(先生及夫人外滩; Xiānshēng Jí Fūrén Wàitān MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6323 9898; www.mmbund.com; 6th fl, Bund 18, 18 East Zhongshan No 1 Rd; 中山东一路18号6楼 mains ¥160-800, 2-/3-course set lunch ¥200/250; h5.30-10.30pm Mon-Wed, 5.30pm-2am Thu &Fri, 11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30pm-2am Sat, 11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-10.30pm Sun; mLine 2, 10 to East Nanjing Rd)
French chef Paul Pairet's casual eatery aims for a space that’s considerably more playful than your average fine-dining Bund restaurant. The mix-and-match menu has a heavy French bistro influence, reimagined and served up with Pairet’s ingenious presentation. But it’s not just the food you’re here for: it’s the post-midnight menu deal (two-/three-course meals ¥250/300), the bingo nights and the wonderfully wonky atmosphere. Ring the doorbell for entry.
Lonely Planet China Page 60