oM on the BundEUROPEAN$$$
(米氏西餐厅, Mǐshì Xīcāntīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6350 9988; www.m-restaurantgroup.com/mbund/home.html; 7th fl, 20 Guangdong Rd; 广东路20号7楼 mains ¥200-400, 2-course set lunch ¥188, weekend brunch 2-/3-courses ¥268/298; h11.30am-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm; mLine 2, 10 to East Nanjing Rd)
M exudes a timelessness and level of sophistication that eclipses the razzle-dazzle of many other upscale Shànghǎi restaurants. The menu ain't radical, but that’s the question it seems to ask you – is breaking new culinary ground really so crucial? Crispy suckling pig and tagine with saffron are, after all, simply delicious just the way they are.
The art deco dining room and 7th-floor terrace overlooking the Bund are equally gorgeous. It's also a heavenly spot for afternoon tea (¥88 to ¥138). Make reservations well in advance.
Old Town
Element FreshSANDWICHES$
(新元素, Xīnyuánsù GOOGLE MAP ; www.elementfresh.com; 6th fl, Fraser Residence, 228 South Xizang Rd; 西藏南路228号6楼 breakfast from ¥38, meals ¥60-100; W; mLine 8 to Dashijie)
Handy Old Town outpost of the health-conscious chain dedicated to pick-me-up breakfasts, crisp salads, sandwiches, and feel-good juices and smoothies.
Nánxiáng Steamed Bun RestaurantDUMPLINGS$
(南翔馒头店, Nánxiáng Mántou Diàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 85 Yuyuan Rd, Yùyuán Bazaar; 豫园商城豫园路85号 12 dumplings on 1st fl ¥22; h1st fl 10am-9pm, 2nd fl 7am-8pm, 3rd fl 9.30am-7pm; mLine 10 to Yuyuan Garden)
Shànghǎi’s most famous dumpling restaurant divides the purists, who love the place, from the younger crowd, who see an overrated tourist trap. Decide for yourself how the xiǎolóngbāo rate, but lines are long and you won’t even get near it on weekends. There are three dining halls upstairs, with the prices escalating (and crowds diminishing) in each room.
The takeaway deal (including crab meat) is comparable to what you pay elsewhere for xiǎolóngbāo, but the queue snakes halfway around the Yùyuán Bazaar.
oEl WillySPANISH$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 5404 5757; www.elwillygroup.com; 5th fl, South Bund 22, 22 East Zhongshan No 2 Rd; 中山东二路22号5楼 mains from ¥65, 3-course set menus ¥168; h11am-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm Mon-Sat; mLine 10 to Yuyuan Garden)
Ensconced in the stunningly converted South Bund 22, bright, vivacious and relocated from the French Concession, Willy Trullas Moreno’s fetching and fun restaurant is a more relaxed counterpoint to many other overdressed Bund operations. Seasonally adjusted scrumptious tapas and paellas are Willy’s forte, paired with some serene Bund views beyond the windows. Chopsticks encourage the communal Chinese dining approach.
oTable No 1 by Jason AthertonEUROPEAN$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6080 2918; www.tableno-1.com; The Waterhouse at South Bund, 1-3 Maojiayuan Rd; 毛家园路1-3号 mains ¥148-268; hlunch & dinner; W; mLine 9 to Xiaonanmen)
On the ground floor of the Waterhouse by the Cool Docks, British chef Jason Atherton’s Table No 1 fits in perfectly with the distressed industrial-chic theme. A low-key cocktail bar gives way to a deceptively casual dining room where candlelit wooden tables are arranged in communal dining style. A short selection of modern European dishes make up a beautifully considered menu.
Sharing options are also available.
French Concession
oĀ Dà CóngyóubǐngSHANGHAI$
(阿大葱油饼 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2, Lane 159, South Maoming Rd; 茂名南路159弄2号 cóngyóubǐng ¥5; h6am-3pm Thu-Tue; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)
The very definition of a hole-in-the-wall, Ā Dà Cóngyóubǐng is a takeaway spot with a long queue of hungry locals (a one-hour wait is not unheard of), serving the tastiest of that crispy Shànghǎi snacking stalwart: cóngyóubǐng (spring-onion pancake). You can get them all over town, but this simple place frequently edges into Top 10 lists (as voted by local diners).
Follow the aroma down the small alley, which actually leads off Nanchang Rd near the intersection of South Maoming Rd.
oJian Guo 328SHANGHAI$
(建国, Jiànguó MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6471 3819; 328 West Jianguo Rd; 建国西路328号 mains ¥22-58; h11am-2pm & 5-9.30pm; mJiashan Rd)
Frequently crammed, this boisterous narrow two-floor MSG-free spot tucked away on Jianguo Rd does a roaring trade on the back of excellent well-priced Shanghainese cuisine. You can’t go wrong with the menu; highlights include the deep-fried duck legs, aubergine casserole, scallion-oil noodles and yellow croaker fish spring rolls. Reserve.
oSpicy JointSICHUAN$
(辛香汇, Xīnxiānghuì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6470 2777; 3rd fl, K Wah Center, 1028 Middle Huaihai Rd; 淮海中路1028号嘉华中心3楼 dishes ¥12-60; h11am-10pm; W; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)
If you only go to one Sìchuān joint in town, make it this one, where the blistering heat is matched only by its scorching popularity. Dishes are inexpensive by the city’s standards; favourites include massive bowls of spicy catfish in hot chilli oil, an addictive garlic-cucumber salad, smoked-tea duck and chilli-coated lamb chops.
Be forewarned that the wait can be excruciatingly long at peak times; you’ll need a mobile number to secure a place in the queue.
Baker & SpiceCAFE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bakerandspice.com.cn; 195 Anfu Rd; 安福路195号 sandwiches & salads from ¥50; h6am-10.30pm; W; mChangshu Rd)
Whether you're craving a healthy sit-down lunch or a takeaway treat, Baker & Spice has you covered. The long wooden communal table suits solo diners, while couples and groups natter away at tables spread out in this bright and airy bakery-cafe. Everything comes lovingly presented: sandwiches on dense, fibre-rich bread; quinoa and kale salads; muffins; pains-au-chocolate; tartines; cakes; and sizeable vanilla custard Berliners.
oLost HeavenYUNNAN$$
(花马天堂, Huāmǎ Tiāntáng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6433 5126; www.lostheaven.com.cn; 38 Gaoyou Rd; 高邮路38号 dishes ¥48-96; h11.30am-1.30pm & 5.30-10.30pm; mShanghai Library)
Located on a quiet street in Shànghǎi’s most desirable neighbourhood, Lost Heaven is stylish and atmospheric with subdued red lighting and a giant Buddha dominating the main dining area. The Yúnnán food is delicately flavoured and nicely presented, although purists may bemoan the way some dishes, such as the Dali chicken, aren’t as spicy as they should be.
The Yúnnán vegetable cakes come with a salsa-like garnish and make a fantastic starter. There are a few branches around town, including one on the Bund (花马天堂, Huāmǎ Tiāntáng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6330 0967; www.lostheaven.com.cn; 17 East Yan’an Rd; 延安东路17号 dishes ¥50-160; h11.30am-3pm & 5.30-10.30pm; mLine 2, 10 to East Nanjing Rd). Reserve.
oJesseSHANGHAI$$
(吉士酒楼, Jíshì Jiǔlóu MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6282 9260; www.xinjishi.com; 41 Tianping Rd; 天平路41号 dishes ¥28-188; h11am-4pm & 5.30pm-midnight; mJiaotong University)
Jesse specialises in packing lots of people into tight spaces, so if you tend to gesture wildly when you talk, watch out with those chopsticks. This is Shanghainese home cooking at its best: crab dumplings, jujubes (red dates) stuffed with glutinous rice, Grandma’s braised pork and plenty of fish, drunken shrimp and eel.
oDī Shuǐ DòngHUNANESE$$
(滴水洞 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6253 2689; 2nd fl, 56 South Maoming Rd; 茂名南路56号2楼 dishes ¥25-128; h11am-1am; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)
Until the chilled lagers arrive, the faint breeze from the spreading of the blue-and-white tablecloth by your waiter may be the last cooling sensation at Dī Shuǐ Dòng, a rustic upstairs shrine to the volcanic cuisine of Húnán. Loved by Shanghainese and expats in equal measure, dishes are ferried in by sprightly peasant-attired staff to tables stuffed with enthusiastic, red-faced diners.
The claim to fame is the Húnán-style cumin-crusted ribs, but there’s no excuse not to sample the làzi jīdīng (fried chicken with chillies), the excellent Húnán-style fried crab in claypot or even the classic boiled frog. Cool down with plenty of beers and crowd-pleasing caramel
ised bananas for dessert.
Liquid LaundryAMERICAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6445 9589; www.theliquidlaundry.com; 2nd fl, Kwah Centre, 1028 Middle Huaihai Rd; 淮海中路1028号2楼 mains ¥48-128; h11am-midnight Sun-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat; W; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)
With bow-tied ‘mixologists’, subway-tiled walls and exposed warehouse piping, Liquid Laundry will have you thinking you’ve just walked off the elevator into NYC. This vast gastropub/cocktail bar offers several options – wood-fired pizza at the counter, American bourbon whiskies in the lounge area, rotisserie chicken with homemade hot sauce to a backdrop of shiny brewery vats, and 15 craft beer taps.
oElEfanteMEDITERRANEAN$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 5404 8085; www.el-efante.com; 20 Donghu Rd; 东湖路20号 lunch set ¥128, weekend brunch from ¥198; h11.30am-3pm & 6-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat & Sun; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)
Willy Trullas Moreno's ElEfante sits squarely at the heart of the French Concession – in the same spot as his first venture – with a choice patio and romantic 1920s villa setting. Its tantalising Mediterranean menu, with tapas-style dishes, has pronounced Spanish and Italian inflections, and has local gastronomes buzzing.
oT8FUSION$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6355 8999; http://t8-shanghai.com; Xīntiāndì North Block, Bldg 8; 太仓路181弄新天地北里8号楼 mains ¥238-598, set lunch weekdays ¥158; h11am-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm; mSouth Huangpi Rd, Xintiandi)
T8 aims to seduce, which it does exceptionally well. Catalan chef Jordi Servalls Bonilla is at the helm, bringing a preference for molecular cuisine with dishes such as tataki of sesame-crusted tuna and foie gras millefeuille (a layered pastry cake). The renovated grey-brick shíkùmén (石库门; stone-gate house) with striking feng shui–driven entrance is the perfect setting.
The dark, warm interior is decorated with antique Chinese cabinets and a carved wooden screen. Reserve ahead.
KagenJAPANESE$$$
(隐泉源铁板烧, Yǐnquán Yuán Tiěbǎnshāo MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6433 3232; 28d Taojiang Rd; 桃江路28号丁 all-you-can-eat-&-drink teppanyaki ¥328; h5.30-11pm Mon-Thu & Sun, 11.30am-midnight Fri & Sat; mChangshu Rd)
Opened by the folks at Haiku (隐泉之语, Yǐnquán Zhī Yǔ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6445 0021; 28b Taojiang Rd; 桃江路28号乙 maki rolls ¥70-140; h11am-2pm & 5.30-10pm; mChangshu Rd) next door, supersleek Kagen offers excellent value all-you-can-eat-and-drink teppanyaki. Wagyu beef, tiger prawns and foie gras are some of the finer ingredients on the menu, and quality sushi, sashimi, sake and wine are all part of the buffet deal. It also offers an à la carte menu. Reserve.
Jìng’ān
oYang's Fry DumplingsDUMPLINGS$
(小杨生煎馆, Xiǎoyáng Shēngjiān Guǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2nd fl, 269 Wujiang Rd; 吴江路269号2楼 4 fried dumplings from ¥8; h10am-10pm; mLine 2, 12, 13 to West Nanjing Rd, exit 4)
A much-too-small outlet of this famous dumpling-house chain, specialising in delicious pork and prawn shēngjiān. Pass your receipt to the kitchen to collect your dumplings.
oSumerianCAFE$
(苏美尔人, Sū Měi Ěr Rén MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.sumeriancoffee.com; 415 North Shaanxi Rd; 陕西北路415号 mains from ¥20; h7am-8pm; W; mLine 2, 12, 13 to West Nanjing Rd, exit 1)
Run by a bright and sunny team of staff, good-looking Sumerian packs a lot into a small space. The real drawcard here is the coffee – the cafe roasts its own single-origin beans sourced seasonally from Ethiopia, El Salvador and China. It does good pour-overs and lattes, as well as a nitro and eight-hour cold drip. The homemade bagels are also a standout, with a delicious selection of toppings and spreads.
Co. Cheese Melt BarSANDWICHES$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 32 Yuyuan East Rd; 愚园东路32号 sandwiches from ¥25; h11.30am-10pm Tue-Thu & Sun, to 1am Sat; W; mLine 2, 7 to Jing'an Temple)
A godsend for those with a hankering for the ultimate in Western comfort food, this joint is dedicated entirely to the humble grilled-cheese sandwich. Run by a Canadian expat, this intimate bar offers a selection of 20 gourmet cheese melts on sourdough, or build your own classic grilled cheese on white bread with a side of pickles and hot sauces.
There's an IPA and cider on tap, bottled craft beers and a good bar selection. Jars of homemade Polish pickles line the walls. Don't miss the signature pickleback – a shot of whisky with briny pickle-juice chaser. If you want something different for a boozy brunch, try the alcoholic cereal served with Baileys milk.
Pure and WholeVEGETARIAN$
(純和整個, Chún Hé Zhěnggè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 5175 9822; www.pureandwhole.com; 98 Yanping Rd; 延平路98号 dishes ¥37-78; h11.30am-10pm; aWv; mLine 2, 7 to Jing’an Temple, exit 2)
When you've overdosed on dumplings, this popular vegetarian restaurant offers much-needed respite with detox salads, wholewheat wraps stuffed with tofu 'chorizo', chickpeas and avocado, or white-bean stews. It does cleansing juices and creative blended drinks. Grab a seat upstairs overlooking the main road.
oCommune SocialTAPAS$$
(食社, Shíshè GOOGLE MAP ; www.communesocial.com; 511 Jiangning Rd; 江宁路511号 tapas ¥38-198, set-lunch menu 3/5 course ¥178/218; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm Tue-Fri, noon-3pm & 6-10.30pm Sat, to 3pm Sun; mLine 7 to Changping Rd)
A venture by UK celebrity chef Jason Atherton, this natty Neri & Hu–designed restaurant blends a stylish, yet relaxed, vibe with sensational tasting dishes, exquisitely presented by chef Scott Melvin. It's divided neatly into upstairs cocktail bar with terrace, downstairs open-kitchen tapas bar and dessert bar. It's the talk of the town, but has a no-reservations policy, so prepare to queue.
There's a range of tapas menus, including a vegetarian option, and set-lunch menus all featuring modern European creations.
oHǎi Dǐ LāoHOTPOT$$
(海底捞 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6258 9758; 3rd fl, 1068 West Beijing Rd; 北京西路1068号3楼 hotpot per person ¥100-120; h10.30am-late; W; mLine 2, 12, 13 to West Nanjing Rd)
This Sichuanese hotpot restaurant is all about service, and the assault begins the minute you walk in the door. Pre-dining options include complimentary shoeshines, manicures and trays of fresh fruit; once you’ve actually sat down, the buzz of activity continues with the donning of matching red aprons and a YouTube-worthy noodle-stretching dance performance (order lāo miàn; 捞面).
Din Tai FungDUMPLINGS$$
(鼎泰丰, Dǐng Tài Fēng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6289 9182; www.dintaifung.com.tw/en; Shànghǎi Centre, 1376 West Nanjing Rd; 南京西路1376号 10 dumplings ¥58-88; h10am-10pm; v; mLine 2, 7 to Jing’an Temple, exit 1)
Critically acclaimed dumplings and flawless service from Taiwan’s most famous dumpling chain. Reserve ahead.
oFu 1088SHANGHAI$$$
(福1088 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 5239 7878; 375 Zhenning Rd; 镇宁路375号 h11am-2pm & 5.30-11pm; mLine 2, 11 to Jiangsu Rd)
In a 1930s villa, exclusive Fu 1088 has 17 rooms filled with Chinese antiques. Rooms are rented out privately, with white-gloved service and an emphasis on elegant Shanghainese fare with a modern twist such as shredded crab and drunken chicken. There’s a minimum charge of ¥300 per person for lunch, and ¥400 for dinner, excluding drinks.
Pǔdōng
Baker & SpiceCAFE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; IFC Mall, 8 Century Ave; 世纪大道8号 sandwiches & salads from ¥50; h10am-10pm; mLujiazui)
Small branch in the IFC Mall with baked pastries, bagels, salad bowls and weekend brunch.
Food OperaASIAN$
(食代馆, Shídàiguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; B2, Superbrand Mall, 168 West Lujiazui Rd; 陆家嘴西路168号B2楼 dishes from ¥15; h10am-10pm; mLujiazui)
Grab a card from the booth (¥10 deposit), load up with credits and then spend, spend, spend on a whole host of open kitchens in this hopping food court. There's Korean, teppanyaki, Japanese noodles, pasta and much more. The spicy shoyu ramen at Ramen Play is a good place to start. Just point at what you want and hand over your card.
oSichuan FolkSICHUAN$
$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %021 3111 8055; Room 110, 1368 Shibo Ave; 世博大道1368号110室 mains from ¥22; h11am-2pm & 5-9pm; mChina Art Museum)
Formerly known as Bāguó Bùyī, Sichuan Folk is pretty much the most authentic Sìchuān food in town, cooked up by the diligent chefs at this famous restaurant at the World Expo site, originally founded in Chéngdū. With no concessions to the dainty Shànghǎi palate, prepare for a spicy firecracker of a meal. It's located in a complex opposite the Mercedes-Benz Arena.
oGrand CaféBISTRO$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 5047 8838; http://shanghai.grand.hyatt.com; Grand Hyatt, Jīnmào Tower, 88 Century Ave; 世纪大道88号君悦大酒店 buffet lunch/dinner from ¥288/388; hbuffet lunch 11.30am-2.30pm, à la carte 24hr; mLujiazui)
On the 54th floor of Jīnmào Tower (in the Grand Hyatt lobby), the Grand Café offers stunning panoramas through its glass walls and an excellent-value lunch buffet; pile your plate with endless crab legs, Peking duck, fresh prawns, mini burgers, dumplings, made-to-order noodles: you name it. Finish it off with gelato, delectable cakes, fruit and French cheeses. Book well in advance for a window table. Service charge 10%.
Lonely Planet China Page 61