Small enough to feel intimate, but big enough for a sometimes pulsating atmosphere, Yùyīntáng has long been one of the top places in the city to see live music. Any Shànghǎi rock band worth its amps plays here, but you can also catch groups on tour from other cities in China, as well as international acts. Rock is the staple diet, but anything goes, from hard punk to jazz.
oShànghǎi Centre TheatreACROBATICS
(上海商城剧院, Shànghǎi Shāngchéng Jùyuàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6279 8948; Shànghǎi Centre, 1376 West Nanjing Rd; 南京西路1376号 tickets ¥120-300; mLine 2, 7 to Jing’an Temple)
The Shànghǎi Acrobatics Troupe has popular performances here at 7.30pm most nights. It’s a short but fun show and is high on the to-do list of most first-time visitors. Buy tickets a couple of days in advance from the ticket office on the right-hand side at the entrance to the Shànghǎi Centre.
Fairmont Peace Hotel Jazz BarJAZZ
(爵士吧, Juéshì Bā MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6138 6883; 20 East Nanjing Rd; 南京东路20号费尔蒙和平饭店 h5.30pm-2am, live music from 7pm; mLine 2, 10 to East Nanjing Rd)
Shànghǎi’s most famous hotel features Shànghǎi’s most famous jazz band (starts at 7pm), a septuagenarian sextet that’s been churning out nostalgic covers such as ‘Moon River’ and ‘Summertime’ since the dawn of time. There’s no admission fee, but you'll need to sink a drink from the bar (draught beer starts at ¥70, a White Lady is ¥98).
The original band takes the stage from 7pm to 9.45pm; to get the pulse moving, a ‘sultry female vocalist’ does her bit from 9.45pm.
House of Blues & JazzLIVE MUSIC
(布鲁斯乐爵士之屋, Bùlǔsī Yuè Juéshì Zhīwū MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6323 2779; 60 Fuzhou Rd; 福州路60号 beer from ¥70; h5pm-1am Tue-Sun; mLine 2, 10 to East Nanjing Rd)
Fittingly dark and divey, this vintage jazz and blues bar exudes plenty of class with its polished heavy wood decor. The house band delivers live jazz or blues from 9.30pm (10pm on Friday and Saturday) to 1am. Sunday night is a free-for-all jam. Entry is free if you're here to eat or drink; happy hour offers half-priced beers to 8pm.
Shànghǎi Concert HallCLASSICAL MUSIC
(上海音乐厅, Shànghǎi Yīnyuè Tīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6386 2836; www.shanghaiconcerthall.org; 523 East Yan’an Rd; 人民广场延安东路523号 tickets ¥80-480; mLine 1, 2, 8 to People’s Square, Line 8 to Dashijie)
A decade or so ago, the government shunted all 5650 tonnes of this classic 1930s building 66m away from busy East Yan’an Rd to a quieter parkside setting. It features smaller-scale concerts plus local and international soloists.
The website is in Chinese, but you can pick up the program from the box office.
Yìfū TheatreCHINESE OPERA
(逸夫舞台, Yìfū Wǔtái MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6322 5294; www.tianchan.com; 701 Fuzhou Rd; 人民广场福州路701号 tickets ¥30-280; mLine 1, 2, 8 to People’s Square)
One block east of People’s Square, this is the main opera theatre in town. The theatre presents a popular program of Běijīng, Kun and Yue (Shàoxīng) opera. A Běijīng opera highlights show is performed several times a week at 1.30pm and 7.15pm; pick up a brochure at the ticket office.
Shanghai Symphony Orchestra HallCLASSICAL MUSIC
(上海交响乐团, Shànghǎi Jiāoxiǎngyuè Tuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.shsymphony.com; 1380 Middle Fuxing Rd; 复兴中路1380号 mChangshu Rd)
Designed by architects Isozaki Arata and Yasushisa Toyota, and opening in 2014, this concert venue is now the home of the Shanghai Symphony Orchestra, which has been going strong since 1949. Small chamber music concerts are held most Friday evenings at affordable prices, but they do tend to sell out, so book in advance. Tickets can be bought at the venue box office or on the website.
Cotton ClubLIVE MUSIC
(棉花俱乐部, Miánhuā Jùlèbù MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6437 7110; www.thecottonclub.cn; 1416 Middle Huaihai Rd; 淮海中路1416号 h7.30pm-2am Tue-Sun; mChangshu Rd)
Harlem it ain’t, but this is still the best and longest-running bar for live jazz in Shànghǎi. It features blues and jazz groups throughout the week. Wynton Marsalis once stepped in to jam, forever sealing the Cotton Club’s reputation as the top live-music haunt in town. The music gets going around 9pm or 10pm.
Shànghǎi Conservatory of MusicCLASSICAL MUSIC
(上海音乐学院, Shànghǎi Yīnyuè Xuéyuàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6431 1792; 20 Fenyang Rd; 汾阳路20号 hticket office 9am-8.30pm; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)
The auditorium here holds classical-music performances (Chinese and Western), usually on weekends at 7.30pm, and the musicians are often the stars of the future. You can buy tickets next door to the campus at Music Ticket; it also sells tickets to performances at other venues in the city.
Oriental Art CenterCLASSICAL MUSIC
(上海东方艺术中心, Shànghǎi Dōngfāng Yìshù Zhōngxīn GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6854 1234; www.shoac.com.cn; 425 Dingxiang Rd; 浦东丁香路425号 mScience & Technology Museum)
Home of the Shànghǎi Symphony Orchestra, the Oriental Art Center was designed to resemble five petals of a butterfly orchid. There are three main halls that host classical, jazz, dance and Chinese and Western opera performances. Saturday brunch concerts (10am, held on the first and third Saturday of the month) cost from ¥30 to ¥80. Free tours of the centre are conducted on the first Saturday of the month (from 1.30pm to 4.30pm).
Shànghǎi Circus WorldACROBATICS
(上海马戏城, Shànghǎi Mǎxìchéng GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6652 7501; www.era-shanghai.com/era/en/; 2266 Gonghexin Rd; 共和新路2266号 tickets ¥120-600; mShanghai Circus World)
Out on the far northern outskirts of town, you'll find this impressive complex. The show – Era: Intersection of Time – combines awesome acrobatics with new-fangled multimedia elements. Shows start at 7.30pm. Tickets are available at the door, but booking ahead is advised.
7Shopping
Shànghǎi's runaway property market and thrusting economy have filled pockets citywide: Shànghǎi shoppers buy up big-time. While locals have a passion for luxury goods and designer labels, it's not all about Gucci, Prada and Louis Vuitton. Whether you're after boutique threads, a set of snappy heels, Chinese antiques, handmade ceramics or a period poster from the Mao era, Shànghǎi is an A to Z of shopping.
The Bund & People's Square
oShànghǎi Museum Art StoreGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(上海博物馆艺术品商店, Shànghǎi Bówùguǎn Yìshùpǐn Shāngdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 201 Renmin Ave; 人民大道201号 h9.30am-5pm; mLine 1, 2, 8 to People’s Square)
Attached to the Shànghǎi Museum and entered from East Yan’an Rd, this shop offers a refreshing change from the usual tourist tat. Apart from the excellent range of books on Chinese art and architecture (including many Shànghǎi-centric titles), there's a good selection of quality cards, prints and slides. The annex shop sells fine imitations of some of the museum’s ceramic pieces, as well as scarves and bags.
oSūzhōu CobblersFASHION & ACCESSORIES
(上海起想艺术品, Shànghǎi Qǐxiǎng Yìshùpǐn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.suzhou-cobblers.com; Unit 101, 17 Fuzhou Rd; 福州路17号101室 h10am-6.30pm; mLine 2, 10 to East Nanjing Rd)
Right off the Bund, this cute boutique sells exquisite hand-embroidered silk slippers, bags, hats and clothing. Patterns and colours are based on the fashions of the 1930s, and as far as the owner, Huang 'Denise' Mengqi, is concerned, the products are one of a kind. Slippers start at ¥650 and can be made to order.
oForeign Languages BookstoreBOOKS
(外文书店, Wàiwén Shūdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.sbt.com.cn; 390 Fuzhou Rd; 福州路390号 h10am-6.30pm; mLine 2, 10 to East Nanjing Rd)
Open since the 1950s, this monumental red-brick bookshop is Shànghǎi's best for English-language fiction, nonfiction and travel guides. There's also a stellar selection of Chinese cultural, cooking and language books. Kids' literature is on the 4th floor.
Old Town
oO
ld StreetGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(老街, Lǎo Jiē MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Middle Fangbang Rd; 方浜中路 mLine 10 to Yuyuan Garden)
This renovated Qing dynasty stretch of Middle Fangbang Rd is lined with specialist tourist shops, spilling forth with shadow puppets, jade jewellery, embroidered fabrics, kites, horn combs, chopsticks, zǐshā teapots, old advertising posters, banknotes, Tibetan jewellery, the usual knock-off Mao memorabilia, reproduction 1930s posters, old illustrated books and calligraphy manuals, and surreal 3D-dazzle kitten photos.
oSouth Bund Fabric MarketCLOTHING
(南外滩轻纺面料市场, Nán Wàitān Qīngfǎng Miànliào Shìchǎng GOOGLE MAP ; 399 Lujiabang Rd; 陆家浜路399号 h8.30am-6pm; mLine 4 to Nanpu Bridge)
This old building with more than 100 stalls is one of the best and easiest fabric markets for tourists as many of the stallholders speak a little English. Dresses and suits can be chosen from pattern books or copied from pictures and made up in a dizzying range of fabrics.
Shíliùpù Fabric MarketCLOTHING
(十六铺面料城, Shíliùpù Miànliào Chéng GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6330 1043; 2 Zhonghua Rd; 中华路2号 h8.30am-6pm; mLine 9 to Xiaonanmen)
Having silk shirts, dresses and cashmere coats tailor-made for a song is one of Shànghǎi’s great indulgences. This three-storey building, one of several fabric markets in the city, is conveniently located near the Yùyuán Bazaar. It’s a cheaper source of silk than many shops, with prices around ¥200 per metre.
French Concession
oDòng LiángFASHION & ACCESSORIES
(棟梁 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 3469 6926; www.dongliangchina.com; 184 Fumin Rd; 富民路184號 hnoon-9pm; mChangshu Rd, Jing'an Temple)
For an up-to-the-minute look at what's hot in local fashion, head to this beautiful boutique housed in a converted villa. Showcasing new Chinese design talent, pieces don't come cheap. The offerings are some of the coolest fashion and accessory collections from designers such as Ms Min, Yifang Wan, Hefang and Comme Moi together in one studio.
There is another shop nearby on Changle Rd.
oCulture MattersSHOES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 15 Dongping Rd; 东平路15号 h11am-9.30pm; mHengshan Rd, Changshu Rd)
Sneaker freaks should stop by this small Dongping Rd shop to ogle its fine selection of cool Feiyue and Warrior trainers (originating in Shànghǎi in the 1920s as martial arts shoes). There are a few branches around town including one at Tai'an Rd ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 20 Tai'an Rd;泰安路20号 h11am-9.30pm; mJiatong University) and prices start at an incredible ¥60.
oOOAK Concept BoutiqueJEWELLERY
(OOAK设计师品牌概念店, OOAK Shèjìshī Pǐnpái Gàiniàndiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.theooak.com; 30, Lane 820, Julu Rd; 巨鹿路820弄30号 h11am-8pm; mJiashan Rd, Hengshan Rd)
Tall and skinny OOAK ('One of a Kind') has three floors of inspiring jewellery; catchy and attractive modern clothing for women; and bags and shoes from a host of talented big-name and aspiring independent designers from Europe and far-flung parts of the globe.
oLolo Love VintageVINTAGE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2 Yongfu Rd; 永福路2号 hnoon-9pm; mShanghai Library, Changshu Rd)
There's rock and roll on the stereo and a huge white rabbit, stuffed peacock and plastic cactus outside this wacky shrine to vintage 1940s and 1950s glad rags, behind the blue steel door on Yongfu Rd. It’s stuffed with frocks, blouses, tops, shoes, brooches and sundry togs spilling from hangers, shelves and battered suitcases.
There’s a lovely garden out the front.
oPīlìngpālāng – Anfu LuCERAMICS
(噼呤啪啷 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.pilingpalang.com; 183 Anfu Rd; 安福路183号 h10am-9.30pm; mChangshu Rd)
You'll find gorgeous vibrant-coloured ceramics, cloisonné and lacquer, in pieces that celebrate traditional Chinese forms while adding a modern and deco-inspired slant here at Pīlìngpālāng. Tea caddies and decorative trays make for great gifts or souvenirs.
Comme MoiFASHION & ACCESSORIES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 5466 4689; www.commemoi.com.cn; 169 Xinle Rd; 新乐路169号 mSouth Shaanxi Rd)
Fitted out by Shànghǎi-based designers Neri & Hu, and located in the art deco Donghu Hotel building, this is the flagship store of Comme Moi. Created by one of China’s most successful supermodels, Lu Yan, the Comme Moi label features relaxed chic styles in classic muted tones.
Cottage ShopACCESSORIES, VINTAGE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 3416 0523; 170 Wulumqi Middle Rd; 乌鲁木齐中路170号 h11am-8pm; mChangshu Rd)
If you're in the market for an antique camera, bowler hat, vintage checked shirt, kerosene lamp or designer leather wallet, duck into the Cottage Shop and you won't be disappointed.
YizidiGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(煙纸店, Yān Zhǐ Diàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Xīntiāndì North Block, Bldg 25; 太仓路181弄新天地北里25号楼 h10am-10pm Mon-Thu & Sun, 10.30am-10.30pm Fri & Sat; mSouth Huangpi Rd)
It might be the tiniest shop imaginable but Yizidi – part of the Zen Lifestore (钲艺廊, Zhēng Yìláng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 7 Dongping Rd; 东平路7号 h10am-10pm Sun-Thu, 10.30am-10.30pm Fri & Sat; mChangshu Rd) group – manages to pack in a number of great gifts and souvenirs, from hand-sewn brightly coloured slippers made in Shànghǎi to Saint John wind-up toys (robots, planes, cars).
IAPM MallMALL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.iapm.com.cn/; 999 Middle Huaihai Rd; 淮海中路999号 h10am-11pm; W; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)
There is a mix of high-end designers (Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen, Miu Miu, Prada) and younger casual brands such as Mango, Camper and Muji at this upscale mall, worth a look for the spectacular and well-considered interior design alone. You'll also find a branch of the supermarket city'super here, packed with imported goods.
Zhēnchálín TeaDRINKS
(臻茶林, Zhēnchálín MAP GOOGLE MAP ; No 13, Lane 210, Taikang Rd, Tiánzǐfáng; 泰康路210弄13号田子坊 h10am-8.30pm; mDapuqiao)
From the entrance this looks like just another tea shop, but poke around inside and you’ll find specially blended herbal teas from Ayako, a traditional Chinese medicine–certified nutritionist. Peruse the hand-wrapped pǔ’ěr teas and ceramic and crystal teaware while staff ply you with tiny cups of ginseng oolong and offer tasters of whatever takes your fancy to keep you lingering.
Bags of tea start at around ¥45.
Urban TribeCLOTHING
(城市山民, Chéngshì Shānmín MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.urbantribe.cn; 133 West Fuxing Rd; 复兴西路133号 10am-10pm; mShanghai Library)
Urban Tribe draws inspiration from the ethnic groups of China and Southeast Asia. The collection of loose-fitting blouses, pants and jackets made of natural fabrics are a refreshing departure from the city’s on-the-go attitude and usual taste for flamboyance. Don’t miss the collection of silver jewellery, nor the lovely tea garden behind the store.
Jìng’ān
oSpinCERAMICS
(旋, Xuán GOOGLE MAP ; www.spinceramics.com; 360 Kangding Rd; 康定路360号 h11am-8pm; mLine 7 to Changping Rd, exit 2)
High on creative flair, Spin brings Chinese ceramics up to speed with oblong teacups, twisted sake sets and all manner of cool plates, chopstick holders and ‘kung fu’ vases. Pieces are never overbearing, but trendily lean towards the whimsical, geometric, thoughtful and elegant. All are made by Shànghǎi designers in the famous pottery town of Jǐngdézhèn. Prices are reasonable – pick up contemporary (beautiful) spiral teacups for ¥70.
oDesign CommuneHOMEWARES
(設計公社, Shèjì Gōngshè GOOGLE MAP ; www.thedesignrepublic.com; 511 Jiangning Rd; 江宁路511号 h10am-7pm; mLine 7 to Changping Rd)
Run by esteemed interior-design duo Neri & Hu – the last word on everything tasteful in Shanghai – Design Republic has set up this multilevel showroom displaying products from acclaimed local and international designers. Within a beautiful red-brick building that was a former police headquarters (c 1909), here you'll encounter anything from Scandinavian fu
rniture to designer glassware, ceramics and accessories.
Jǐngdézhèn Porcelain ArtwareCERAMICS
(景德镇艺术瓷器, Jǐngdézhèn Yìshù Cíqì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6253 8865; 212 North Shaanxi Rd; 陕西北路212号 h10am-9pm; mLine 2, 12, 13 to West Nanjing Rd, exit 1)
This is one of the best places for high-quality traditional Chinese porcelain. Blue-and-white vases, plates, teapots and cups are some of the many choices available. Credit cards are accepted, and overseas shipping can be arranged.
Amy Lin’s PearlsJEWELLERY
(艾敏林氏珍珠, Àimǐn Línshì Zhēnzhū MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %139 1631 3466; www.amylinspearls.com; Room 30, 3rd fl, 580 West Nanjing Rd; 南京西路580号3楼30号 h10am-8pm; mLine 2, 12, 13 to West Nanjing Rd, exit 1)
It may be in a market known for fake goods, but Amy Lin's is the most reliable retailer of pearls of all colours and sizes. Freshwater pearls (from ¥80), including prized black Zhèjiāng pearls (from ¥1500) and saltwater pearls (from ¥200), are available here. The staff speak English and will string your selection for you. This place sells jade and jewellery, too.
Lonely Planet China Page 63