Hóngkǒu & North Shànghǎi
oGuǒyúanHUNANESE$
(果园 GOOGLE MAP ; 524 Dongjiangwan Rd; 东江湾路524号 mains from ¥18; h11am-2pm & 5-10pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm & 5-10pm Sat & Sun; mHongkou Football Stadium)
The cool lime-green tablecloths do little to tame the tempestuous flavours of this fantastic Húnán restaurant. The tiěbǎn dòufu (铁板豆腐; sizzling tofu platter) here is a magnificent dish, but its fiery flavours are almost eclipsed by the enticing xiāngwèi qiézibāo (湘味茄子煲; Húnán aubergine hotpot) and the lovely zīrán yángròu (孜然羊肉; lamb with cumin; ¥32).
Xújiāhuì & South Shànghǎi
oHóng Làjiāo XiāngcàiguǎnHUNANESE$
(红辣椒湘菜馆 GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6283 2970; 754 Panyu Rd; 番禺路754号 mains ¥28-58; h11am-midnight; mLine 11 to Jiaotong University)
There's no shortage of decent Húnán restaurants in Shànghǎi but you won't find much better than this one. Wooden benches and an exposed-brick effect make for a rough-and-ready atmosphere, but there's nothing casual about the food: a feast of unforgettably smoky, spicy flavours. Many of the dishes are prepared in the typical 'dry pot' (干锅; gān guō) style, and are served up in an iron pot placed over a burner at the table.
oDin Tai FungSHANGHAI$
(鼎泰丰, Dǐng Tài Fēng GOOGLE MAP ; %021 3469 1383; 5th fl, Grand Gateway 66, 1 Hongqiao Rd; 虹桥路1号港汇广场5楼 mains ¥38-58; h10am-10pm; mLine 1, 9, 11 to Xujiahui)
This brightly lit and busy Taiwan-owned restaurant chain may still be peddling its ‘Top 10 restaurants of the world’ mantra after a two-decades-old review in the New York Times, but it does deliver some absolutely scrummy Shànghǎi xiǎolóngbāo dumplings. Not cheap perhaps (the pork variety are five for ¥30, or 10 for ¥60), but they’re delicate, flavoursome and worth every jiǎo.
Service is top-notch and you can watch masked chefs prepare your dumplings through sheet glass on arrival, where you can also peruse pictures of Tom Cruise giving his thumbs up. Vegetable or pricey black truffle xiǎolóngbāo options are also on offer.
West Shànghǎi
o1221SHANGHAI$$
(Yī Èr Èr Yī; GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6213 6585; 1221 West Yan’an Rd; 延安西路1221号 dishes ¥28-128; h5-11pm; mWest Yan'an Rd)
No one has a bad thing to say about this dapper expat favourite, and rightly so: it has never let its standards dip over the years. Meat dishes start at ¥58 for the beef and yóutiáo (dough strips), and the plentiful eel, shrimp and squid dishes cost around twice that. Other tempting fare includes the roast duck and braised pork.
oFú Hé HuìVEGETARIAN$$$
(福和慧 GOOGLE MAP ; %021 3980 9188; 1037 Yuyuan Rd; 愚园路1037号 set menus ¥380, ¥680 & ¥880; h11am-2pm & 5-10.30pm; v; mJiangsu Rd)
The most recent venture from owner Fang Yuan and chef Tony Lu, the Shànghǎi team behind Fu 1015, Fu 1088 and Fu 1039 (福一零三九; Fú Yào Líng Sān Jiǔ GOOGLE MAP ; %021 5237 1878; 1039 Yuyuan Rd; 愚园路1039号 dishes ¥60-108; mJiangsu Rd), this is the standout in an amazing bunch. Set in an elegant private room, the strictly vegetarian menu draws on Yuan's Buddhist faith. Choose from three set menus featuring creative and delicate flavours that won it a place in Asia's 50 Best Restaurants 2016.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Shànghǎi adores its lychee martinis and cappuccinos to go and, with dazzling salaries and soaring property prices leaving the streets sloshing with cash, there are more than enough bars and cafes to wet the lips of the thirsty white-collar set. There's a happening nightlife scene that keeps everyone – VIP or not – well entertained.
The Bund & People's Square
oGlamLOUNGE
(魅力, Mèilì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 7th fl, 20 Guangdong Rd; 广东路20号7楼 cocktails ¥80-100; h5pm-late; mLine 2, 10 to East Nanjing Rd)
The decor here is decidedly bohemian – full of art and curiosities – and its cool retro feel makes it one of the Bund's most atmospheric spots for a drink. Cocktail prices are accessible, as is the bar menu, ranging from truffle cheese toasties to soft-serve ice cream.
oLong BarBAR
(廊吧, Láng Bā MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6322 9988; 2 East Zhongshan No 1 Rd; 中山东一路2号 drinks from ¥70; h4pm-1am Mon-Sat, 2pm-1am Sun; W; mLine 2, 10 to East Nanjing Rd)
For a taste of colonial-era Shànghǎi’s elitist trappings, you’ll do no better than the Long Bar. This was once the members-only Shànghǎi Club, whose most spectacular accoutrement was a 34m-long wooden bar. Foreign businessmen would sit here according to rank, comparing fortunes, with the taipans (foreign heads of business) closest to the view of the Bund.
Now part of the Waldorf Astoria, the bar’s original wood-panelled decor has been painstakingly re-created from old photographs. There’s a good selection of old-fashioned cocktails as well as an oyster bar (and jazz, naturally).
oBarbarossaBAR
(芭芭露莎会所, Bābālùshā Huìsuǒ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.barbarossa.com.cn; People’s Park, 231 West Nanjing Rd; 南京西路231号人民公园内 h11am-2am; W; mLine 1, 2, 8 to People’s Square, exit 11)
Set back in People’s Park alongside a pond, Barbarossa is all about escapism. Forget Shànghǎi, this is Morocco channelled by Hollywood set designers. The action gets steadily more intense as you ascend to the roof terrace, via the cushion-strewn 2nd floor, where the hordes puff on fruit-flavoured hookahs. At night, use the park entrance just east of the former Shànghǎi Race Club building (上海跑马总会; Shànghǎi Pǎomǎ Zǒnghuì).
Happy hour (from 2pm to 8pm) is a good time to visit for two-for-one cocktails.
M1NTCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6391 2811; www.m1ntglobal.com; 24th fl, Cross Tower, 318 Fuzhou Rd; 福州路318号24楼 h9.30pm-late Wed-Sat; mLine 2, 10 to East Nanjing Rd)
Exclusive penthouse-style club with knockout city views and snazzy fusion food but not a lot of dance space. Dress to impress or you’ll get thrown into the shark tank. No sports shoes etc.
PopBAR
(流行音乐, Liúxíng Yīnyuè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6321 0909; www.threeonthebund.com; 7th fl, Three on the Bund, 3 East Zhongshan No 1 Rd; 中山东一路3号7楼 h11am-late; mLine 2, 10 to East Nanjing Rd)
On the top floor of Three on the Bund, Pop's splendid roof terrace is divided into multiple entities, all with choice views of Pǔdōng’s hypnotising neon performance. There’s always a crowd, whether they're here for the Miami art deco–themed cocktail bar or the Louisiana-style Whisper bar, specialising in American rye whiskies and bourbon. There's also a stylish restaurant that channels a retro New York brassiere.
The menu is mainly Western comfort food, with mains from ¥120.
SHàNGHǎI PUB CRAWL
Pub CrawlPUB
(http://pubcrawlshanghai.com; ¥150)
Every Saturday at 9.30pm, this organised pub crawl starts with an hour-long open bar (with free snacks), followed by a series of bars around town, with free shots and cut-price booze to follow. It's a great way to size up the Shànghǎi bar scene and make new friends. Sign up online; cost ¥150.
Old Town
Mid-Lake Pavilion TeahouseTEAHOUSE
(湖心亭, Húxīntíng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Yùyuán Bazaar; 豫园商城 tea ¥50; h8am-9pm; mLine 10 to Yuyuan Garden)
Next to the entrance to the Yùyuán Gardens is the Mid-Lake Pavilion Teahouse, once part of the gardens and now one of the most famous teahouses in China, visited by Queen Elizabeth II and Bill Clinton, among others. The zigzag causeway is designed to thwart spirits (and trap tourists), who can only travel in straight lines.
The wonderfully lengthy menu recommends suitable brews to drink in each season and the tea is served elegantly with tiny nibbles.
French Concession
oSenator SaloonCOCKTAIL BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 5423 1330; www.senatorsaloon.com; 98 Wuyuan Rd; 五原路98号 h5pm-1am Mon-Fri, to late Sat & Sun; mChangshu Rd)
From the team behind Sìchuān Citizen (龙门阵茶屋, Lóngménzhèn Cháwū
MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 5404 1235; 30 Donghu Rd; 东湖路30号 dishes ¥26-98, set lunch ¥38-68; h11am-10.30pm; W; mSouth Shaanxi Rd) and Citizen Café comes this classy 1920s Prohibition Era–style cocktail bar in a quiet spot on Wuyuan Rd. Slink into a dark-wood booth under pressed metal ceilings and dim art deco lights to order a barrel-aged Negroni from waitstaff decked out in braces and bow ties. There's a long menu of American bourbon and whisky rye-based cocktails, and excellent table service.
oSpeak LowCOCKTAIL BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6416 0133; 579 Middle Fuxing Rd; 复兴中路579号 h6pm-1.30am Sun-Thu, to 2.30am Fri & Sat; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)
Speak Low is a standout in a city overrun with speakeasy-style bars. Once you find your way in through Ocho bar equipment shop, start with a drink on the 2nd floor; cocktails run ¥75 to ¥85. Then head upstairs (hint: find China and you'll find the entrance) to the intimate, seating-only bar for expertly crafted Japanese-influenced cocktails from ¥100.
oCafé del VolcánCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cafevolcan.com; 80 Yongkang Rd; 永康路80号 espressos ¥26, flat whites ¥36; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun; W; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)
Tiny Café del Volcán offers a pit stop from the bustle of bar-heavy Yongkang Rd. The minimalist cafe has just a few wooden box tables sharing the space with the roasting machine. The coffee here is excellent and its signature beans come from the owner's coffee plantation in Guatemala – in the family for 120 years – while other single-origin beans are from Ethiopia, Kenya, Panama and Yúnnán.
oDr WineWINE BAR
(葡萄酒博士, Pútáojiǔ Bóshì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 177 Fumin Rd; 富民路177号 h11am-2am; W; mJing’an Temple)
Black-leather armchairs, salvaged shíkùmén brick walls and worn-in tables set the mood at this casual, two-storey wine bar on Fumin Rd. Wines are sold by both the glass (from ¥48) and bottle. Pair it with the usual French accompaniments – a cheeseboard (from ¥88) or charcuterie plate (saucisson, pâté etc from ¥120) – and settle in for the night.
oEl CóctelBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6433 6511; 2nd fl, 47 Yongfu Rd; 永福路47号 h5.30pm-late; mShanghai Library)
What do you get when you cross an ever-inventive Spanish chef with a perfectionist bartender from Japan? El Cóctel, of course – a retro cocktail lounge that mixes up some damn fine drinks, but make sure you come with cash to spare. Like a lot of bars in the city, it can get very smoky, and if you don’t reserve you might find it hard to get in.
oCitizen CaféCAFE
(天台餐厅, Tiāntái Cāntīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 222 Jinxian Rd; 进贤路222号 h11am-12.30am; W; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)
Decked out with Chesterfield seating, dark-wood-panelled walls, whirring ceiling fans and small lamps, this feels like a snug private gentleman's club by day and romantic candlelit hideaway come sundown. Weekday lunch sets (11am to 2pm) are great value where you can recharge with a club sandwich, fries and a latte for ¥45. The small 2nd-floor terrace is a great spot for sipping cocktails while watching street scenes unfold.
oCafé des StagiairesBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cafestagiaires.com; 54-56 Yongkang Rd; 永康路54-56号 mains from ¥45; h10am-midnight; W; mSouth Shaanxi Rd)
One of the original bars on buzzing Yongkang Rd, this hip oasis of Francophilia spills over with slightly zany Gallic charm. There's a coke bottle chandelier and a (French) geography lesson via the wine list: Languedoc, Provence, Côte du Rhône, Loire, Alsace, Bourgogne, Bordeaux and, bien sûr, Rest of the World. Each table is regularly stocked with addictive chilli peanuts.
If that's insufficient, sample the quality charcuterie, cheese and pizzas. Happy hour is 5pm to 8pm weekdays and 2pm to 6pm weekends, with great-value wine at ¥20 per glass.
oBell BarBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://bellbar.cn; Tiánzǐfáng, back door No 11, Lane 248, Taikang Rd; 泰康路248弄11号后门田子坊 h11am-2am Wed-Mon, 2pm-2am Tue; W; mDapuqiao)
This eccentric, unconventional boho haven is a delightful Tiánzǐfáng hideaway, with creaking, narrow wooden stairs leading to a higgledy-piggledy array of rooms and the tucked-away attic slung out above. Expect hookah pipes, mismatched furniture and a small, secluded mezzanine for stowaways from the bedlam outside. It’s in the second alley (Lane 248) on the right.
Time PassageBAR
(昨天今天明天, Zuótiān Jīntiān Míngtiān MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6240 2588; No 183, Lane 1038, Caojiayan Rd; 曹家堰路1038弄183号 h5pm-late; W; mJiangsu Rd)
Time Passage has real staying power, clocking up around 20 years in the business of cheap beer and good music. Beyond its no-nonsense Gucci-free vibe – not a suit in sight – it’s a relaxing, down-to-earth spot for an evening beer or a daytime coffee.
There’s live music on Friday and Saturday nights, and a daily happy hour from 5.30pm to 7.30pm.
Jìng’ān
oDogtownBAR
(狗镇, Gǒu Zhèn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 409 N Shaanxi Rd; 陕西北路409号 h4-10pm Mon-Fri, noon-11pm Sat & Sun; mLine 2, 7 to Jing'an Temple; Line 2, 12, 13 to West Nanjing Rd)
Run by the team from Sumerian next door, this pocket-sized bar is literally a streetside shack with a few stools at its bar, though most revellers stand on the pavement with beer in hand. It's a great place to get chatting to random strangers. For early starters, there's a free keg of Asahi going on weekends from noon until it runs out.
If that wasn't a sweet enough deal, Dogtown also serves homemade soft-corn tortilla tacos (from ¥15) and bagels. Note it's closed during the winter months.
Tailor BarCOCKTAIL BAR
(裁缝栏, Cáiféng Lán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %183 0197 7360; 4th fl, 2 Huashan Rd; 华山路2号4楼 cocktails ¥90-150; h6.30pm-late; mLine 2, 7 to Jing'an Temple)
Set up by London-trained mixologist Eddie Yang, this swanky speakeasy is accessed via a nondescript lift next to a Chinese medicine shop. It lives up to its name with cocktails tailor-made to suit your tastes; there's no menu, so pick a few items and let the staff do their thing. During the day they serve coffee and there are good views of Jìng’ān Temple.
Mokkos LamuBAR
( GOOGLE MAP ; 1245 Wuding W Rd; 武定西路1245号 h7pm-2am; mLine 2, 11 to Jiangsu Rd, exit 5)
Hidden away on a residential side street, Mokkos is a long-running local fave that specialises in nothing but shōchū (Japanese spirit made from grains). It's an intimate, jovial and welcoming bar where drinkers sit on stools around the curved bar lined with large, aesthetically pleasing shōchū bottles. There's a choice of wheat, rice or potato varieties, and it also does shōchū cocktails for ¥40.
There's a guitar on the wall for regular impromptu jams.
Helen'sBAR
(海倫的, Hǎilún De MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 148 N Maoming Rd; 茂名北路148号 h5pm-2am; mLine 2, 12, 13 West Nanjing Rd, exit 12)
Had enough of wall-to-wall suits and sky-high prices? Helen's speciality is the bargain-basement, no-frills, student-set dive-end of the bar market. Enjoy.
Pǔdōng
oFlairBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 58th fl, Ritz-Carlton Shanghai Pudong, 8 Century Ave; 世纪大道8号58楼 cocktails from ¥95; h5.30pm-late; W; mLujiazui)
Wow your date with Shànghǎi’s most intoxicating nocturnal visuals from the outdoor terrace on the 58th floor of the Ritz-Carlton, where Flair nudges you that bit closer to the baubles of the Oriental Pearl TV Tower. If it’s raining, you’ll end up inside, but that’s OK as the chilled-out interior, designed by the firm Super Potato, is very cool. Book well in advance for the terrace.
Hóngkǒu & North Shànghǎi
oVueBAR
(非常时髦, Fēicháng Shímáo MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hyattonthebundsh.com; 32nd & 33rd fl, Hyatt on the Bund, 199 Huangpu Rd; 黄浦路199号外滩茂悦大酒店32-33楼 h5.30pm-late; mTiantong Rd)
Take in the extrasensory nocturnal views of the Bund and Pǔdōng from Vue bar at the Hyatt on the Bund, complete with outdoor jacuzzi to dip your toes in while you raise your glass of bu
bbly. There's a cover charge of ¥100 for those not staying at the hotel, which includes a free drink.
3Entertainment
Shànghǎi is no longer the decadent city that slipped on its dancing shoes as the revolution shot its way into town, but entertainment options have blossomed again over the past decade. Plug into the local cultural scene for a stimulating shot of gallery openings, music concerts and laid-back movie nights at the local bar.
oShànghǎi Grand TheatreCLASSICAL MUSIC
(上海大剧院, Shànghǎi Dàjùyuàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021 6386 8686; www.shgtheatre.com; 300 Renmin Ave; 人民广场人民大道300号 hbox office 9am-8pm; mLine 1, 2, 8 to People’s Square)
Shànghǎi’s state-of-the-art concert venue hosts everything from Broadway musicals to symphonies, ballets, operas, and performances by internationally acclaimed classical soloists. There are also traditional Chinese-music performances. Pick up a schedule at the ticket office.
oYùyīntángLIVE MUSIC
(育音堂 GOOGLE MAP ; %021 5237 8662; www.yytlive.com; 851 Kaixuan Rd; 凯旋路851号 mWest Yan’an Rd)
Lonely Planet China Page 62