Lonely Planet China

by Lonely Planet

  If you book a place to stay in one of the tǔlóu, most owners can help with transport and they usually arrange pick-up from Nánjìng or Yǒngdìng.

  Quánzhōu 泉州

  %0595 / Pop 1.2 million

  The role of Quánzhōu (泉州) as an integral part of the maritime Silk Road during Song and Yuan rule is still felt in the city’s architecture, cuisine and ethnic diversity. Today it’s a handsome, if grossly undervisited place – due partly to the lure of nearby Xiàmén – but what Marco Polo described in the 13th century as ‘one of the two ports in the world with the biggest flow of merchandise’ does not easily fade away.

  Wandering Quánzhōu’s ancient stone streets and temples of many faiths creates a rare sense of timelessness in urban China. Hints of a rich Islamic and maritime past are readily visible, and the atmosphere at times feels like a city further west. There are also easy day trips from here to the fascinating historic villages of Chongwu and Xunpu which have long faced out towards the sea.

  Quánzhōu

  1Sights

  1Confucius TempleA2

  2Guāndì TempleB3

  3Jǐnxiùzhuāng Puppet MuseumB3

  4Kāiyuán TempleA1

  5Qīngjìng MosqueB3

  6Tiānhòu TempleA4

  4Sleeping

  754 Coffee InnA1

  8Quánzhōu Humei Holiday HotelB3

  9Tíhò Cafe & HostelA4

  5Eating

  10Ānjì KèjiāwángB3

  11Lánshì ZhōnglóuB1

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  12Gǔcuò CháfángB3

  8Information

  13Wenling Nanlu Train Ticket OfficeB4

  1Sights

  Guāndì TempleTAOIST TEMPLE

  (关帝庙, Guāndì Miào MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Tumen Jie, 涂门街 )F

  This smoky and magnificently carved temple is southeast of Qīngjìng Mosque. A furnace burns prayer books stuffed in by devotees. It’s dedicated to Guan Yu, a Three Kingdoms general who was deified as the God of War. Inside the temple are statues of the god and wall panels that detail his life. Busy merchants gather outside.

  Língshān Islamic CemeteryCEMETERY

  (灵山伊斯兰教圣墓, Língshān Yīsīlán Shèngmù cnr Donghu Lu & Lingshan Lu, 在东湖路与灵山路的路口 )

  Set at the foot of the mountain of Língshān, this leafy cemetery is one of the most intact historic cemeteries in China. Two of Mohammed’s disciples are said to be buried here, and you’ll also find some granite steles dating from the Míng dynasty. Take bus 7 or 203 and hop off at Shèngmùzhàn (圣墓站).

  Maritime MuseumMUSEUM

  (泉州海外交通史博物馆, Quánzhōu Hǎiwài Jiāotōngshǐ Bówùguǎn Donghu Lu, 东湖路 h8.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun)F

  On the northeast side of town, this fabulous museum explains Quánzhōu’s trading history, the development of Chinese shipbuilding and the kaleidoscope of religions in the port’s heyday. The Religious Stone Hall and Islamic Culture Hall are highlights, boasting a beautiful collection of gravestones and reliefs of different religions dating from the Yuan dynasty. Take bus 7 or 203 and alight at Qiáoxiāng Tǐyùguǎn (侨乡体育馆).

  Kāiyuán TempleBUDDHIST SITE

  (开元寺, Kāiyuán Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 176 Xi Jie, 西街176号 admission ¥10; h7.30am-7pm)

  In the northwest of the city, one of the oldest temples in Quánzhōu dates back to AD 686. Surrounded by trees, Kāiyuán Temple is famed for its pair of rust-coloured five-storey stone pagodas, stained with age and carved with figures, which date from the 13th century. Behind the eastern pagoda is a museum containing the enormous hull of a Song dynasty seagoing junk, which was excavated near Quánzhōu in 1974.

  Confucius TempleCONFUCIAN TEMPLE

  (府文庙, Fǔwén Miào MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Zhongshan Zhonglu, 鲤城区中山中路 )F

  A living relic of the Song dynasty built in 976 and the largest Confucian Temple in southern China.

  Jǐnxiùzhuāng Puppet MuseumMUSEUM

  (锦绣庄木偶艺术馆, Jǐnxiùzhuāng Mù’ǒu Yìshùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 10-12 Houcheng Jie, 后城街10-12号 h9am-9pm)F

  A very simple museum behind Tumen Jie displaying puppet heads, intricate 30-string marionettes and comical hand puppets. Shows run intermittently.

  Qīngjìng MosqueMOSQUE

  (清净寺, Qīngjìng Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 108 Tumen Jie, 涂门街108号 admission ¥3; h8am-5.30pm)

  Built by the Arabs in 1009 and restored in 1309, this stone edifice is one of China’s only surviving mosques from the Song dynasty. Only a few sections (mainly walls) of the original building survive, largely in ruins. The adjacent mosque is a donation from the government of Saudi Arabia.

  NáNYīN: THE SOUL MUSIC OF QUáNZHōU

  The square in front of Confucius Temple on Tumen Jie is one of the busiest spots in Quánzhōu during daytime, but once the sun sets, amateur and professional musicians start to gather to practise Nányīn (南音), one of the oldest music genres in China.

  The music of Nányīn can be traced as early as Han dynasty, and it was inscribed onto the Unesco Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2009. These slow, haunting melodies are performed with Chinese musical instruments like the bamboo flute, the Chinese lute (pipa) as well as other percussive instruments like clappers. Sometimes the music is purely instrumental, sometimes with ballad singing in the local dialect by a solo singer or by a quartet. The lyrics sung revolve around classical Chinese poems and Buddhist sutras.

  The performance in front of Confucius Temple usually starts at 7pm every night. The shows are free.

  zFestivals & Events

  Lantern FestivalCULTURAL

  The Lantern Festival is celebrated on the 15th day of the first lunar month. Streets in downtown Quánzhōu swell with people after dark, flashing their glow sticks or lanterns and marching to Tiānhòu Temple (天后宫; Tiānhòu Gōng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1 Nanmen Tianhou Lu; 南门天后路1号 h9am-5pm) to pray for prosperity.

  4Sleeping

  There are plenty of nondescript midrange hotels along Wenling Nanlu heading north, as well as some decent accommodation near the old town. The high-end options are also excellent value; enquire about discounts.

  54 Coffee InnGUESTHOUSE$

  (泉州新街54咖啡客栈, Quánzhōu Xīnjiē Wǔshísì Kāfēi Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0595-2287 5167; 54 Xin Jie, 新街54号 dm ¥85, s & d ¥158-178; aW)

  It’s worth the effort to seek out this welcoming red-brick building managed by two friendly women. The four-bed dormitory is excellent value, while the courtyard is a great place to meet other China travellers.

  The entrance to the unmarked Xin Jie is on Xi Jie, about 150m west of the intersection at Zhongshan Zhonglu. From there, walk north for another 150m and the guesthouse is to your right.

  Tíhò Cafe & HostelHOSTEL$

  (堤后咖啡客栈, Tíhòu Kāfēi Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0595-2239 0800, 1865 9009 055; caimj@126.com; 114 Tihou Lu, 堤后路114号 dm ¥50, s & d ¥108-158; aiW)

  A little quirk goes a long way in Quánzhōu’s fairly routine hotel scene, so this place is a welcome sight for independent travellers. Located at the western edge of the old town, the six-bed mixed dorm here is small but clean. Private rooms sport unusual furniture choices, but most of your time will be spent in the cool communal areas, sipping cappuccino and comparing purchases from the market.

  Catch bus 40 (westbound) from the long-distance bus station and alight at Línzhāngmén (临漳门). A taxi from the train station and the centre of town is around ¥20.

  Super 8 Hotel Creative ParkBUSINESS HOTEL$$

  (泉州速8创意园店 %0595 2866 5100; service@bestchinahotel.com; Quanxiu Lu Lingtian 1, 丰泽区秀路领SHOW天地1号楼 r ¥250-300; paW)

  The Super 8 brand rarely disappoints and this new branch located in ‘Live Show Wonderland’ gives you a clean, warm, relatively quiet bed in the middle of a designated party zone about 2km southeast of the city centre. Check in and sleep it off
.

  Quánzhōu Humei Holiday HotelBUSINESS HOTEL$$

  (泉州湖美假日酒店, Quánzhōu Húměi Jiàrì Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0595 6531-8858; Wenling Nanlu, 溫陵南路 d ¥215-225; paW)

  The former Lake Hotel retains its great location, while a recent makeover has given the small rooms a sense of colour and style beyond the business basics, especially in the bathrooms. Service is commendably earnest.

  Jǐnjiāng HotelHOTEL$$

  (锦江之星旅馆, Jǐnjiāng Zhīxīng Lǚguǎn %2815 6355; 359 Wenling Beilu, 温陵北路359号 tw/d ¥176/189; aiW)

  Not many midrange chain hotels are as good value as this one. It’s opposite a fine park and there are good restaurants in the neighbourhood. All rooms are large enough to practise yoga on the floor and the bathrooms sparkle.

  Wàndá Vista QuánzhōuHOTEL$$$

  (泉州万达文华酒店, Quánzhōu Wàndá Wènhuá Jiǔdiàn %0595-6829 8888; www.wandahotels.com; 719 Baozhou Lu, 宝洲路719号 d ¥1288-1588; aiW)

  Located at the southern edge of Quánzhōu’s city centre, the Wàndá Vista looks like a Las Vegas mall from the outside, but inside it’s more like a shiny craps table. Rooms on the upper floors have good views of Jìnjiāng River, though, and all are huge. The buffet comes highly recommended.

  C & D Quanzhou HotelHOTEL$$$

  (泉州悦华酒店 %0595-2801 9999; www.yeohwahotels.com; 129 Citong Xilu, 刺桐西路129号 d ¥1650-2200; aiW)

  The name has changed but the C & D is still the best hotel in the city, with four restaurants, a complete spa and friendly English-speaking staff. Generous rack-rate discounts will please tired travellers. It’s about 2km southeast of the centre.

  5Eating

  You can find the usual noodle and rice dishes served in the back lanes around Kāiyuán Temple and also along the food street close to Wenling Nanlu.

  Ānjì KèjiāwángHAKKA$$

  (安记客家王 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 461 Tumen Jie; meals from ¥50; h11am-9pm)

  The Ān family are well known across town for their Cantonese-style dim sum, which sneaks a few Hakka delights onto the trolley. The xiāmǐ chángfěn (虾米肠粉; shrimp in rice paper) and xián dànjuǎn (咸蛋卷; salty egg rolls) will do just nicely thanks.

  Lánshì ZhōnglóuHAKKA$$

  (蓝氏钟楼肉粽 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 9-21 Dong Jie; meals from ¥25; h11am-9.30pm)

  In an area flush with eateries, this Hakka favourite draws a return crowd for its honest, affordable fare. The signature hēimǐzòng (黑米粽; black rice dumplings) and dànhuángzòng (蛋黄粽; rice dumpling with yolk) are recommended by staff for a reason. There’s another branch in Xiàmén.

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  New Overseas Chinese Village west of Zhongshan Park and Yuanhe 1916 Idea Land on Xinmen Jie are like the many designated ‘party’ areas in Fújiàn, full of old houses turned into cafes, bars and restaurants. Young people are often out in abundance here.

  The BrickyardBEER GARDEN

  (%0595 6043 1105; Quanxiu Lu, 丰泽区乐其道6号101 Wc)

  Every midsized Chinese city has a place where expats go to meet up and whinge about living in a midsized Chinese city. Quánzhōu has the Brickyard, and it’s absolutely fantastic. Heaps of beers on tap, reliable pub food and an atmosphere convivial enough to make you want to pack it in and make the nearby-sea change.

  Gǔcuò CháfángTEAHOUSE

  (古厝茶坊 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 44 Houcheng Xiang; tea ¥50-480, snacks from ¥20; h9am-1am)

  Curious travellers will find many answers in the alley behind Guāndì Temple, often provided by smiling old men reading poems and playing games in this classic Chinese teahouse. Pull up a bamboo chair on the flagstone floor and slow right down for the afternoon.

  8Information

  Bank of ChinaBANK

  (中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; 9 Jiuyi Jie, 九一街9号 h9am-5pm)

  Has a 24-hour ATM.

  China PostPOST

  (中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Dong Jie & Nanjun Lu, 在东街与南骏路的路口 h8.30am-6pm)

  Sells stamps and postcards.

  Public Security BureauPOLICE

  (PSB, 公安局, Gōng’ānjú GOOGLE MAP ; %2218 0323; 62 Dong Jie, 东街62号 hvisa section 8-11.30am & 2.30-5.30pm)

  You can extend your visa here.

  Quánzhōu Xiéhé HospitalHOSPITAL

  (泉州协和医院 GOOGLE MAP ; Quánzhōu Xiéhé Yīyuàn; Tian’an Nanlu, 天安南路 )

  In the southern part of town.

  8Getting There & Away

  Bus

  Both Quánzhōu bus station (泉州汽车站; Quánzhōu Qìchēzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Wenling Nanlu & Quanxiu Jie) and the long-distance bus station (泉州客运中心站; Quánzhōu Kèyùn Zhōngxīnzhàn cnr Quanxiu Jie & Pingshan Lu) further east along Quanxiu Jie have buses to the following destinations:

  AGuǎngzhōu ¥250, seven hours, four daily

  AShēnzhèn ¥280, eight hours, four daily

  Regular deluxe buses:

  AFúzhōu ¥70, 2½ hours

  AXiàmén ¥37, 1½ hours

  Train

  D trains depart from the high-speed train station (高铁泉州站; Gāotiě Quánzhōu Zhàn), 15km from the town centre:

  AFúzhōu ¥55, one hour, half-hourly

  AShànghǎi ¥307, 8½ hours, 12 daily

  AXiàmén ¥21, 45 minutes, half-hourly

  In town, train tickets can be bought at the Wenling Nanlu ticket office (铁路火车票代售点; Tiělù Huǒchēpiào Dàishòudiǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 166 Wenling Nanlu; 温岭南路166号 h9am-6pm) or from the ticket office (火车售票亭; Huǒchē Shòupiàotíng 675 Quanxiu Jie; 泉秀街675号 h7am-6pm) just east of the long-distance bus station. There’s a ¥5 booking fee.

  8Getting Around

  Buses 17 and K1 run from the high-speed train station to Quánzhōu bus station and the long-distance bus station respectively, via Zhōnglóu (钟楼), the intersection of Zhongshan Zhonglu and Xijie. Bus 203 links the train station to Maritime Museum and Islamic Cemetery. A taxi from the centre of town to the train station costs ¥50. Local bus 15 links both bus stations. Bus 2 goes from the bus station to Kāiyuán Temple. Taxi flag fall is ¥7, then ¥1.80 per kilometre.

  Around Quánzhōu

  Chóngwǔ 崇武

  %0595 / Pop 50,000

  One of the best-preserved city walls in China can be found in the ancient ‘stone city’ of Chóngwǔ (崇武). The granite walls date back to 1387, stretch over 2.5km and average 7m in height. Scattered around the walls are 1304 battlements and four gates into the city.

  The town wall was built by the Ming government as a frontline defence against marauding Japanese pirates, and it has survived the past 600 years remarkably well. You can also walk along the top of the wall at some points.

  If your interest here is solely architectural, enter the old town through a narrow gate roughly 200m before the ticketed entrance. From there you can weave your way past intact 14th-century houses and up towards the wall.

  1Sights

  Chóngwǔ Stone Arts Expo ParkPARK

  (崇武石雕工艺博览园, Chóngwǔ Shídiāo Gōngyì Bólǎnyuán admission ¥45)

  Adjacent to the old town is Chóngwǔ Stone Arts Expo Park. It is filled with 500 stone sculptures made by local craftspeople, a small beach, a lighthouse and some basic seafood restaurants. The open spaces and clean ocean air make it worth the effort, especially if you have kids.

  4Sleeping & Eating

  There are a handful of decent hotels within walking distance or a short taxi ride of the old city, but most travellers make day trips from Quánzhōu.

  The strip of cafes adjacent to the old city serve congee with crab meat (¥20), while many vendors inside the park sell barbecued squid on sticks (¥10). There are comfortable, modern eateries frequented by a younger crowd on the pedestrian-only Xinhua Jie, which is about 2km west of the old town.

  West Gulf Holiday HotelRESORT$$

  (湾假�
��酒店, Wān Jiàrì Jiǔdiàn %0595 2787 7777; www.xswhotel.com; r ¥440-680; paWs)

  It was a bit of a building site when we visited – Holiday Inn has moved in and renovated – but the beautiful ocean views, three-star hotel rooms, friendly service and convenient access to the old town lift West Gulf into its own, somewhat uncompetitive, category.

  8Getting There & Away

  Frequent buses depart Quánzhōu’s long-distance bus station (¥13, 1½ hours), taking you past arrays of stone statues (the area is famed for its stone-carving workshop) before ending up in Chóngwǔ. Motorbikes (¥5) will take you from the bus drop-off to the stone city.

  From Chóngwǔ, it’s best to take the a return bus Quánzhōu where numerous connections are available.

  Xúnpǔ Village 蟳埔村

  Xúnpǔ VillageVILLAGE

  The fishing village of Xúnpǔ, some 10km southeast of the city centre of Quánzhōu, was on the old trade route of the maritime Silk Road and was perhaps the Arabs’ first port of call when they set foot in Quánzhōu during the Song dynasty. The village, now under encroaching urbanisation, is still fascinating and you’ll find some old houses built with oyster shells behind the main road in the village and older women still wearing flamboyant traditional head ornaments.