Lonely Planet China
Page 88
Kāifēng MuseumMUSEUM
(开封博物馆, Kāifēng Bówùguǎn GOOGLE MAP ; %0371 393 2178, ext 8010; Zhengkai Dadao, near Wu Dajie, 郑开大道与五大街交叉口 h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)F
Containing a modest collection of archaeological finds, woodblock prints and historical objects, the Kāifēng Museum was slated to move into a new home 5km west of the city in 2017. The draw for most is two notable Jewish stelae, managed by the Kāifēng Institute for Research on the History of Chinese Jews. A ticket to see the stelae was ¥50 at the old museum (at time of research the future price was unknown).
Iron Pagoda ParkPARK
(铁塔公园, Tiě Tǎ Gōngyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 210 Beimen Dajie, 北门大街210号 day/night ¥40/80; h8am-6.30pm)
Rising up within Iron Pagoda Park is a magnificent 11th-century pagoda (55m tall), a gorgeous, slender brick edifice wrapped in glazed rust-coloured tiles (hence the name); its narrow stairs are climbable for ¥35. A 30-minute evening light show is held at 7.30pm, 8pm, 9pm and 9.30pm. Take bus 1 from Zhongshan Lu; alternatively, a taxi will cost ¥10.
ALONG THE RIVER DURING THE QINGMING FESTIVAL
Now held in the Forbidden City and widely acknowledged as China’s first shén (godly) painting, Along the River During the Qingming Festival was completed by Zhang Zeduan (张择端) in the early 12th century. These days, you’ll see it everywhere in Kāifēng. Museums and parks have it in carved wood and stone bas-relief, it's found in scale dioramas, souvenir posters and advertising (it’s on the Kāifēng Hostel’s poster), and there's even a historical theme park modelled on it.
The long (about 25cm x 529cm) painting depicts life in a city that experts have attributed as Kāifēng. It’s packed to the gills with details of the period: boats unloading goods at a harbour, an inn crowded with customers and children playing on the streets. As you would imagine, it offers valuable insight into the life and times of a large Song dynasty town. When the original is displayed in Beijing, queues to see it last hours. Art enthusiasts will no doubt recognise later copies of the work, some of which are equally famous – the 1737 version, presented to Emperor Qianlong, is now held in Taipei's national Palace Museum.
You can see versions at several places in Kāifēng, including the Riverside Scenic Park, the scale diorama in the Shānshǎngān Guild Hall and the replica version in the Kāifēng Museum.
zFestivals & Events
Chrysanthemum FestivalCULTURAL
(hOct)
Millions of chrysanthemums are on full display at Lóngtíng Park (龙亭公园; Lóngtíng Gōngyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0371 566 0316; Zhongshan Lu; 中山路 ¥80; h8am-6pm) and elsewhere around the city during this autumn festival. In 2015, botanists grafted 641 flowers together, earning a spot in the Guinness World Records.
4Sleeping
At the time of research, Kāifēng had closed all hotels to foreigners except for a few four- and five-star options. However, both the Jǐnjiāng Inn (锦江之星; Jǐnjiāng Zhīxīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0371 2399 6666; 88 Zhongshan Lu; 中山路88号 d ¥208-246; aiW) and the Tiānfú Hostel have accepted foreigners in the past; check with them if you're looking for budget accommodation. If nothing is available, you can always visit as a day trip from Zhèngzhōu.
Tiānfú International Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(天福国际青年旅舍, Kāifēng Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0371 2315 3789; 30 Yingbin Lu, 迎宾路30号 dm ¥80, d from ¥298; aiW)
On our last visit, this so-so hostel was being managed by three middle-aged women who seemed unlikely candidates for conveying that fun youth hostel experience. Shooing us out the door with claims that the hostel was closed for renovations (it wasn't), they were neither helpful nor particularly friendly. Definitely confirm before you book here. No English.
Courtyard & Sunlight InnBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(阳光纳里酒店, Yángguāng Nàlǐ Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0371 2238 2222; 5 Qishengjiao Commercial Area, Longting Xilu, 龙亭西路七盛角商业街5号楼 d from ¥468; aW)
Part of a re-created Song dynasty tourist street, this boutique hotel offers a peaceful setting where you can unwind at the end of the day. Expect some semblance of style with a faux interior courtyard, decorated with upside-down parasols, and traditional-style furnishings in the rooms. Bike rental is also available. It's just east of the Millennium City Park (清明上河园; Qīngmíng Shànghéyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Longting Nanlu; 龙亭南路 day ¥100, night ¥219-299; h8am-6pm).
Pullman HotelHOTEL$$$
(铂尓曼酒店, Bó'ěrmàn Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0371 2358 9999; www.pullmanhotels.com; 16 Longting Beilu, 龙亭北路16号 d from ¥2062; naWs)
Set in expansive, park-like grounds, Kāifēng's top hotel choice opened in 2015. Rooms are stylish, with woven tapestries featuring the city's famous sights, though it must be said the bathrooms are a bit jarring, featuring an unusually garish marble. Discounts of 66% make this an excellent, affordable luxury choice.
5Eating
Kāifēng is particularly famous for its snacks and night markets, and you'll find several food streets scattered around town. Xīsī Square is the best of the night markets; the Drum Tower night market is more central but with less variety.
Bǎiqíyuán Food CourtFOOD HALL$
(百奇源美食, Bǎiqíyán Měishí MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 4th fl, New Mart Mall, Ximen Dajie, 西门大街新玛特4楼 meals from ¥20; h9.30am-8pm)
This tempting food court offers plenty of easy-to-order meals, with noodles, dumplings, fried rice, soups and personal stir-fries to choose from. Pre-pay at the entrance (¥10 deposit), take your card and enjoy!
Xīsī Square Night MarketSTREET FOOD$
(西司广场夜市, Xīsī Guǎngchǎng Yèshì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Dingjiao Jie, 丁角街 meals from ¥20; h6.30pm-late)
Join the scrum weaving between stalls busy with red-faced popcorn sellers and hollering Hui Muslim chefs cooking up kebabs and náng bread. There are loads of vendors, selling cured meats, hearty jiānbǐng guǒzi (煎饼裹子; pancake with chopped onions), sweet potatoes, roast rabbit, xiǎolóngbāo (Shànghǎi-style dumplings), peanut cake (花生糕, huāshēng gāo) and cups of sugarcane juice.
Look for yángròu kàngmó (羊肉炕馍; lamb in a parcel of bread), a local Kāifēng Muslim speciality, and for noodle vendors who pull and twist fresh níuròu lāmiàn (牛肉拉面; noodles in beef broth). Take bus 24 to get here.
Gǔlóu Night MarketSTREET FOOD$
(鼓楼夜市, Gǔlóu Yèshì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Sihou Jie, 寺后街 meals from ¥15; h6.30pm-late)
Kāifēng’s bustling night market wraps around the Drum Tower, sprawling in various directions, and serves the usual run of point-and-grill kebabs and steamers of soup dumplings. It's always crowded with locals out enjoying themselves.
Vegetarian RestaurantVEGETARIAN$$
(素斋部, Sùzhāibù MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Temple of the Chief Minister, 大相国寺, Dà Xiāngguó Sì ¥32-88; h11.30am-2pm; v)
Looking out onto the grounds of the Temple of the Chief Minister, the outdoor tables at this small Buddhist dining hall offer the city's most atmospheric setting. Sample vegetarian classics such as braised spare ribs or stewed fish – all made of tofu and vegetables, of course – or simply relax with a pot of tea.
8Information
The area around Zhongshan Lu has internet cafes, but at the time of research, you needed local ID to use the computers. Some places may let you go online for an hour or so.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Xi Dajie & Zhongshan Lu, 西大街与中山路交叉口 )
Has a 24-hour ATM.
China PostPOST
(中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; Ziyou Lu, 自由路 h8am-5.30pm)
West of the Temple of the Chief Minister.
IATA Air Ticket OfficeTICKET OFFICE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0371 2595 5555; cnr Zhongshan Lu & Shengfu Jie, 中山路与省府街交叉口 h9am-5pm)
K�
�ifēng Number One People’s HospitalHOSPITAL
(开封第一人民医院, Kāifēng Dìyī Rénmín Yīyuàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0371 2567 1288; 85 Hedao Jie, 河道街85号 )
Located right in the heart of town.
Public Security BureauPOLICE
(PSB; 公安局, Gōng’ānjú GOOGLE MAP ; %0371 2595 8899; 86 Zhongshan Lu, 中山路86号 h8.30am-noon & 2.30-6pm Mon-Fri)
Visa renewals.
Railway Ticket OfficeTICKET OFFICE
(火车票代售, Huǒchēpiào Dàishòu MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Yingbin Lu, 迎宾路 h8am-noon & 1.30-5.30pm)
Zhāngzhòngjǐng PharmacyPHARMACY
(张仲景大药房, Zhāngzhòngjǐng Dàyàofáng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Xufu Jie, 徐府街 h7.30am-10pm summer, 8am-9pm winter)
Next to Shānshǎngān Guild Hall.
8Getting There & Away
Air
The nearest airport is at Zhèngzhōu. Tickets can be bought at the IATA Air Ticket Office, next to the Public Security Bureau. The airport shuttle (机场巴士; Jīchǎng Bāshì MAP GOOGLE MAP ) runs from the corner of Gulou Jie and Jiefang Lu (¥40, two hours, half-hourly, 5.10am to 6.40pm).
Bus
Buses leave from the main long-distance bus station (开封长途汽车中心站; Kāifēng chángtú qìchē zhōngxīnzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ), opposite the train station:
AĀnyáng ¥63, four hours, half-hourly
ALuòyáng ¥60, three hours, hourly
AXīnxiāng ¥29.50, three hours, hourly
AZhèngzhōu ¥7, 1¾ hours, every 15 minutes
Buses also run from the west long-distance bus station (开封长途汽车西站; Kāifēng chángtú qìchē xīzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ):
ADēngfēng ¥42, 3¼ hours, one daily (9.30am)
ALuòyáng ¥63, three hours, two daily (8.50am and 2pm)
AXīnxiāng ¥29.50, three hours, six daily
AZhèngzhōu ¥7, 1¾ hours, every 15 minutes
AZhūxiān Zhèn ¥6, 45 minutes, every 15 minutes
Note that almost all buses to Zhèngzhōu terminate at its east train station; to get into town either take the metro or the transfer bus running between the two train stations.
Train
Kāifēng's train station is located in the south of town, around 1km beyond the city walls. You can buy tickets at the railway ticket office. Rail options – and tickets – from Kāifēng are limited; your options are much better leaving from Zhèngzhōu.
A new Zhèngzhōu–Kāifēng intercity train was nearing completion at the time of research. Most trains leave from the Zhèngzhōu east train station and will eventually terminate at the Kāifēng station, but so far only go to the Songcheng Lu station, a ¥20 cab ride from Kāifēng.
ABěijīng West Hard sleeper ¥195, 12 hours, two daily
ALuòyáng Hard seat ¥30, 2½ hours, eight daily (few tickets available)
AShànghǎi Hóngqiáo D train 2nd/1st class ¥232/371, six to seven hours, three daily
AXī’ān Seat/sleeper ¥81/163, eight hours, three morning trains (few tickets available)
AZhèngzhōu East ¥18 to ¥22, 30 minutes, frequent service
8Getting Around
Zhongshan Lu is a good place to catch buses (¥1) to most sights. Taxis (flag fall ¥5, pollution tax ¥1) are the best way to get about; a journey from the train station to Zhongshan Lu should cost around ¥7.
Avoid pedicabs as they frequently rip off tourists.
Zhūxiān Zhèn 朱仙镇
%0371 / Pop 210,000
Zhūxiān Zhèn (朱仙镇), where the 1000-year-old craft of woodblock printing (木板年画; mùbǎn niánhuà) is still practised, is known as one of China’s four ‘ancient’ towns: the other three are Hànkǒu (trade), Jǐngdézhèn (porcelain) and Fóshān (silk). An easy day trip from Kāifēng, the woodblock prints here are a sure highlight for anyone interested in traditional Chinese arts and crafts.
1Sights
Zhūxiān MosqueMOSQUE
(朱仙清真寺, Zhūxiān Qīngzhēn Sì )F
Originally founded in the Northern Song dynasty, this mosque is housed in a traditional Chinese temple compound with a pretty rose garden. Examine the elaborately carved lintels and the examples of Chinese/Arabic calligraphy. It's a pleasant walk, 700m south of Zhūxiān's main road along a wide stone path.
Guānyǔ TempleTEMPLE
(关羽庙, Guānyǔ Miào ¥10; h8am-5pm)
Dedicated to Guandi, the god of war and protection (among other things), this temple was originally built during the Ming dynasty (then dedicated to the god of wealth); the present structure dates back to 1708. Consisting of a single hall, there is not much to see here besides the building.
Yuè Feī TempleTEMPLE
(岳飞庙, Yuè Fēi Miào ¥30; h8.30am-6.30pm)
Dedicated to the Southern Song military hero Yuè Feī, this temple was first founded in 1478. Although the hall interiors are largely without interest, there are some old stelae in the courtyard, carried by weathered stone bìxǐ (碧玺; mythical tortoise-like dragons).
4Sleeping & Eating
As it's an easy day trip from Kāifēng, there is no need to spend the night in Zhūxiān.
Look for freshly baked naan (flat bread; ¥1.50), sold by Muslim vendors in the street.
7Shopping
Yǐnshì Lǎo TiānchéngARTS & CRAFTS
(尹氏老天成 %0371 2671 2924)
The artist/owner of this woodblock printing workshop, Mr Yin (尹), is a fifth-generation artisan whose family has been in business for more than 200 years. A beautifully bound book of prints, with English explanations, housed in a wooden presentation box costs ¥200 (but if you’re nice, he'll knock ¥20 off the price). Located 100m east of the Yuè Feī Temple.
8Getting There & Away
Head to Kāifēng's west bus station, from where buses (¥6, 45 minutes, every 15 minutes) run all the way to Zhūxiān. The last bus from Zhūxiān leaves at 5.50pm. The driver can let you off at the mosque, or you can get off at a busy thoroughfare closer to the centre of town.
Húběi
Whan
Jingzhou
Around Jingzhou
Wdang Shan
Shennongjia
Yichang
Húběi
Pop 57.9 million
Why Go?
Like much of central China, Húběi (湖北) is better known for its industrial belt rather than the searing beauty of its lush and fertile landscape of mountain parks and plains sluiced by rivers, lakes and sacred Taoist sites.
The Three Gorges snakes across the border, carrying gobsmacked visitors into its belly, while the mountainous west rises to the sacred peaks of Wǔdāng Shān, the kind of kung-fu film setting where courtyards of taichi masters cling to mountaintops and adhere to Taoist virtues. And hikers will find Shénnóngjià National Park in its sparse, water-coloured natural state.
Húběi’s central location ensured it played a key role in Chinese history – there's evidence around Jīngzhōu of the great Chu kingdom that ruled here more than 2000 years ago. China’s modern history echoes through the cultural sites of Wǔhàn, one of China's most dynamic cities, where the hum of commerce spills over into jumping nightlife.
When to Go
AMar & Apr Rhododendrons are in bloom and the Three Gorges cruises are warm and breezy.
ASep–Nov The end of the crippling summer turns the riverside concession of Wǔhàn into an outdoor party.
ANov–Mar Winter time slows down in Wǔdāng Shān. Hold that taichi pose.
Best Places to Eat
A Xiǎo Bèiké
A Bàyú Rénjiā
A Piān Qiáo Wān
Best Places to Sleep
A Wǔhàn Bingo International Youth Hostel
A Tomolo
A Taichi Hotel
Húběi Highlights
1 Wǔdāng Shān Learning taichi on the majestic cloud-covered mountain where it was invented, then wandering off-path to quiet temples hanging over yonder.
2 Shénnóngjià Spott
ing the famed 'wild man' as you hike in the wilds of northeast Húběi and camping under the stars on elevated grassy knolls.
3 Wǔhàn Doing the cultural dance around Wǔhàn's fine museums and temples before shuffling to the dance floors of the riverfront concession.
4 Yíchāng Tackling the Three Gorges the Húběi way, from this humble river city, rather than the better known Chóngqìng.
5 Jīngzhōu Cycling around the historic gates, city walls and ruined temples of ancient Jīngzhōu.
History
The Húběi area first came to prominence during the Eastern Zhou (700–221 BC), when the powerful Chu kingdom, based in present-day Jīngzhōu, was at its height. Húběi again became pivotal during the Three Kingdoms (AD 220–280). The Chinese classic The Romance of the Three Kingdoms (Sān Guó Yǎnyì) makes much reference to Jīngzhōu. The mighty Yangzi River (Cháng Jiāng) ensured prosperous trade in the centuries that followed, especially for Wǔhàn, China’s largest inland port and stage of the 1911 uprising, which led to the fall of the Qing and the creation of the Republic of China.