4 Yáolǐ Visiting this ancient riverside village with its moss-hewn residences and traditional pottery kilns.
5 Bāyī Square Starting your long morning walk where the Long March was inspired, in Nánchāng, the energetic, riverside capital with surprisingly decent nightlife.
6 Lúshān Seeking respite from the heat in this former Communist Party summer playground atop a misty national park dotted with European-style villas.
History
Jiāngxī’s Gán River Valley was the principal trade route that linked Guǎngdōng with the rest of the country in imperial times. Its strategic location, natural resources and long growing season have ensured that the province has always been relatively well off. Jiāngxī is most famous for its imperial porcelain (from Jǐngdézhèn), although its contributions to philosophy and literature are perhaps more significant, particularly during the Tang and Song dynasties.
Peasant unrest arose in the 19th century when the Taiping rebels swept through the Yangzi River Valley. Rebellion continued into the 20th century, and Jiāngxī became one of the earliest bases for the Chinese communists.
8Getting There & Around
Nánchāng is connected by air to most major cities in China. There's also a small airport at Jǐngdézhèn. Bullet trains link Nánchāng with an ever-growing number of cities, including Wǔhàn and Shànghǎi and, most recently, beautiful Wùyuán in the north of the province.
Travelling around the province, long-distance buses are usually quicker and more frequent than trains. Within towns and cities, local buses cost ¥1 (carry exact change). Around the villages, you may sometimes have to resort to motorbike taxis.
Nánchāng 南昌
%0791 / Pop 2.5 million
Known reverently in textbooks for fomenting Chinese Communist Party (CCP) rule, Nánchāng (南昌) now galvanises support for its attractive, tree-lined streets and easy urban charm. It's a handy base for Jiāngxī's immediate country to the north and is now on a number of bullet-train lines.
The area around Bāyī Park – where the Long March arguably began – buzzes after sunset, while the old quarter near the Gán River is worthy of a lengthy stroll.
Nánchāng
1Sights
1Bāyī SquareC2
2Former Headquarters of the Nánchāng UprisingB2
3Téngwáng PavilionA1
4Sleeping
47 Days InnD3
5Galactic Classic International HotelC3
6Galactic Peace HotelC3
7Nánchāng YHA Letu International HostelA1
8Swiss International HotelA1
5Eating
9Kǎlúnbì KāfēiB1
10Le Bistro 100A1
6Drinking & Nightlife
111923 Zuǒàn CafeA1
12Caffé BeneB1
13Helen'sA1
Transport
14Advance Rail Ticket OfficeC1
15Airport BusD3
16Bayi Guangchangbei Bus StopC2
17Nánchāng Railway International Ticket OfficeC1
18Shuttle Bus for West Train StationD3
19Zhongshan Donglu Bus StopC2
1Sights
Bāyī SquarePARK
(南昌八一广场, Nánchāng Bāyī Guǎngchǎng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Zhongshan Lu, 中山路 )
Where the Communist Party first insurged, you'll now find groups of Chinese, young and old, walking, dancing, hawking and laughing throughout this popular park in the heart of the city. Best enjoyed just after dusk or dawn.
Téngwáng PavilionMONUMENT
(腾王阁, Téngwáng Gé MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rongmen Lu, 榕门路 ¥50; h7.30am-6.30pm summer, 8am-5pm winter)
This nine-storey pagoda is the city’s drawcard monument, first erected during Tang times, but destroyed and rebuilt no less than 29 times, most recently in 1989. Traditional music performances are played on the 6th floor. Take Bus 2内 from the train station. Visitors can climb to the top for views of the modern city.
Former Headquarters of the Nánchāng UprisingMUSEUM
(八一南昌起义纪念馆, Bāyī Nánchāng Qǐyì Jìniànguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 380 Zhongshan Lu, 中山路380号 h9am-5pm, closed Mon)F
Wartime paraphernalia for rainy days and enthusiasts of the CCP. Admission free with passport.
THE NáNCHāNG UPRISING
The Nánchāng Uprising is known as the first appearance of the People's Liberation Army. On 1 August 1927, Zhou Enlai and Zhu De broke ranks with the Nationalist-controlled military and, together with 30,000 communist troops, held the city for four days. The communists were eventually forced to retreat to the nearby mountains where they continued their gruelling campaign, and eventually the fabled Long March in 1934.
4Sleeping
Nánchāng YHA Letu International HostelHOSTEL$
(国际旅馆, Nánchāng Guójì Lǚguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0791 8523 9191; [email protected]; 253 Shengjinta Jie, 绳金塔街253号 dm/s/d ¥25/50/80)
Nánchāng's best hostel is on the historic 'snack' street and does a steady business in itinerant Chinese backpackers and Chinese-language-student drifters from afar. Dorms are perfectly kept, while the private rooms are compact but bright and airy.
7 Days InnHOTEL$$
(七天连锁酒店, Qītiān Liánsuǒ Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0791 8610 5088; www.7daysinn.cn; 19 Zhanqian Lu, 站前路19号 r from ¥165; aiW)
The Bāyī Square branch of this 24/7 chain has clean rooms with wooden floors, and service is always earnest. The breakfast will fill a hole too.
Swiss International HotelLUXURY HOTEL$$$
(南昌瑞颐大酒店, Nánchāng Ruìyí Dàjiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0791 8777 7777; www.swissinternationalhotels.com/nanchang; 69 Yanjiang Bei Lu, 沿江北路69号 r from ¥900; paWs)
On the mighty Gán River is Nánchāng's finest high-end hotel, doing the Swiss efficiency model proud. Rooms are understated and spacious with big-window views of barges and bridges. Staff provide real expertise on the area and can arrange trips around the province. The day spa and swimming-pool area were under renovation when we visited.
Galactic Classic International HotelHOTEL$$$
(嘉莱特精典国际酒店, Jiāláitè Jīngdiǎn Guójì Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0791 8828 1888; www.glthp.com; 2 Bayi Dadao, 八一大道2号 r from ¥1288; aW)
Not exactly out of this world, but this classy Chinese luxury hotel near the train station has quite the futuristic exterior. Rooms are a little dated, but very big and the soft colours ease the jet lag. Over the road, its older sister, Galactic Peace Hotel (嘉莱特和平国际酒店; Jiāláitè Hépíng Guójì Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0791 8611 1118; www.glthp.com; 10 Guangchang Nanlu; 广场南路10号 r from ¥1080; aiW), is a slightly cheaper option.
Discounted to ¥699 when not busy.
PRICE RANGES
SLEEPING
Price ranges include taxes, private bathrooms and sometimes breakfast.
$ less than ¥100
$$ ¥100–¥300
$$$ more than ¥300
EATING
These categories are indicative of at least one substantial dish, plus rice and tea.
$ less than ¥30
$$ ¥30–¥60
$$$ more than ¥60
5Eating
oKǎlúnbì KāfēiASIAN$$
(卡伦比咖啡 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Bāyī Park, 八一公园西门 mains ¥40-100; h9am-1.30am; W)
This modern cafe-restaurant, with a charming lakeside location inside Bāyī Park, does fresh coffee (¥40), Chinese tea (¥90) and imported beer (¥30) as well as good quality food. The steaks (¥100 to ¥200) are expensive. Instead, go for noodles (¥45) or one of the tasty casserole pots (¥50 to ¥60).
Pay a few extra kuài to upgrade your dish to a tàocān, a set meal with rice, soup and other small accompaniments. No English sign, but it does have an English menu.
Le Bistro 100FRENCH$$$
(法国小厨100, Fǎguó Xiǎochú 100 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0791 610 0100; 100 Rongmen Lu, 榕门路100号 mains ¥60
-100; hnoon-10pm)
It's not totally French, but you're in the middle of China, so be grateful that you can vary your cuisine. Pull up a seat at this small restaurant and order beef, fish and chicken dishes of the utmost quality. The wine list (bottles only) is good too.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oHelen'sBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0791 8671 9023; 536 Dieshan Lu, 叠山路536号 beer from ¥30, snacks from ¥20)
Helen's large tables and booths fill with groups of young and well heeled Chinese playing drinking games, smoking hookah pipes, dancing to hip hop and house, and eating delicious miniburgers. It's dimly lit, very friendly and a lot of fun.
1923 Zuǒàn CafeCAFE
(1923-左岸艺文咖啡馆, 1923 Zuǒ'àn Yìwén Kāfēi Guǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Minde Lu, 民德路 drinks ¥30-60)
This Parisian-themed bar-cafe on the shopping street of Minde Lu is remarkably cool for a second-tier Chinese city. The owner has sourced antiques and bric-a-brac from across Europe to create an intimate, kooky venture where you can sip martinis or hot espressos in period splendour.
Caffé BeneCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1 Minde Lu, 民的路1号佑民寺旁 coffee ¥25; h10.30am-11pm; W)
Spacious branch of the stylish Korean coffee chain. Does good coffee plus a small selection of Western food, including Belgian waffles and ice cream. Free wi-fi.
8Information
There are 24-hour internet cafes by the train station.
Bank of ChinaATM
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; 161 Minde Lu, 民的路161号 )
Bank of China ATM.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; Zhanqian Xilu, 站前西路 )
Includes foreign exchange.
China PostPOST
(中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; Youzheng Rd, 邮政路 )
Public Security BureauPOLICE
(PSB, 公安局, Gōng’ānjú %0791 8728 8493; 131 Yangming Lu, 阳明路131号 h8am-noon & 2.30-6pm)
The 1st Hospital of Nánchāng CityHOSPITAL
(南昌市第一医院, Nánchāng Shì Dìyī Yīyuàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0791 886 2288, 0791 870 0989; 128 Xiangshan Beilu, 象山北路128号 )
8Getting There & Away
Air
Chāngběi airport, 28km north of Nánchāng, has flights to all major Chinese cities as well as Bangkok and Singapore. Book tickets through www.ctrip.com.
Bus
Bus 89 links the train station with Xúfāng bus station (徐坊客运站; Xúfāng Kèyùnzhàn 850 Jinggangshan Dadao; 井冈山大道850号 ). Bus 18 links the train station with Qīngshān bus station (青山客运站; Qīngshān Kèyùnzhàn 19 Qingshan Nanlu; 青山南路19号 ), which will eventually be connected to the metro.
Services from Qīngshān bus station:
ALúshān ¥59, 2½ hours, 8am, 9.30am and 10.40am
AWùyuán ¥106, 3½ hours, 8am, 10.25am, 12.40pm, 2.15pm and 4.25pm
Services from Xúfāng bus station:
AGànzhōu ¥120, 5½ hours, hourly, 7.20am to 6.50pm
AJǐngdézhèn ¥85, three hours, hourly, 7am to 7.30pm
AJiǔjiāng ¥41, two hours, every 40 minutes, 8am to 7pm
AYīngtán ¥43, two hours, every 90 minutes, 7.45am to 6.15pm
AYùshān ¥84, four hours, 2.40pm
Train
An increasing number of bullet trains leave from Nánchāng's colossal west train station, which will be connected to the metro. Shuttle bus 1 (高铁巴士1号线; gāotiě bāshì yīhàoxiàn; ¥5, 45 minutes, half-hourly 6am to 11pm) links the two train stations.
Services from Nánchāng train station (南昌火车站; Nánchāng Huǒchēzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; Erqi Nanlu; 二七南路 ):
ABěijīng West Z-class hard sleeper ¥317, 11½ hours, two daily (7.55pm, 8.02pm)
ABěijīng West K/T-class hard sleeper ¥317, 16 to 22 hours, six daily
AGànzhōu K/T-class hard seat ¥63, four to five hours, 14 daily
AGuǎngzhōu T/K-class hard sleeper ¥230 to ¥250, 11 to 13 hours, six daily
AHángzhōu East G-class bullet ¥264, two to three hours, 30 daily, 7.32am to 9pm.
AJǐngdézhèn K-class hard seat ¥41 to ¥47, five hours, two daily (7.08am, 4.34pm)
AXī'ān G-class hard sleeper ¥748, 7½ hours, 7.05am
AYùshān K-class hard seat ¥44, 4½ hours, seven daily
Services from Nánchāng West train station (南昌西站; Nánchāng Xīzhàn Xizhan Jie; 西站街 ):
ABěijīng West G-class, hard seat, ¥806, eight to nine hours, two daily (8.48am and 1.12pm)
AShànghǎi (Hóngqiáo) G-class bullet ¥337, 3½ hours, 30 daily
AWǔhàn D-class bullet ¥100 to ¥110 , 2½ hours, 13 daily (8.02am to 7.39pm)
AWùyuán D-class bullet ¥150 to 250, 2½ hours
You can pick up tickets at either the Nánchāng Railway International Ticket Office (南铁国旅; Nántiě Guólǚ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 393 Bayi Dadao; 八一 大道393号 h8.30am-6pm) on the day of travel or the Advance Rail Ticket Office (火车铁路售票处; Huǒchē Tiělù Shòupiàochù MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 393 Bayi Dadao; 八一 大道393号 h8am-noon & 12.30-5pm) if you're a little more organised. They're in the same building.
8Getting Around
Airport buses ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥15) leave every 20 minutes from 5.30am to 9pm from the north side of the train-station square and take 50 minutes. A taxi to the airport (机场; jīchǎng) costs around ¥120.
Line 1 of Nánchāng's flash metro (地铁; dìtiě) is up and running. Line 2 (connecting both train stations with Bāyī Sq) should also be open. Tickets starts at ¥1.50 for single trips.
Around Nánchāng
LuótiáncūnVILLAGE
(罗田村 ¥40, incl admission to Shuǐnán & Jīngtái villages)
This rarely visited, 1100-year-old village, its uneven stone-flagged alleys etched with centuries of wear, provides a history-laden rural escape from urban Nánchāng.
A lazy amble around the village will take you through a tight maze of lanes, past hand-worked pumps, ancient wells, stone steps, scattering chickens, lazy water buffalo and conical haystacks. Rudimentary walking-tour signs – 'visit and go ahead' – will point you towards the most notable old buildings.
A 1km-long flagstone path links Luótiáncūn with its sibling village, Shuǐnán (水南). A further 500m down the stone path (and across the road) is the forlorn village of Jīngtái (京台). Both also contain some wonderful old buildings.
Simple guesthouses (around ¥30 per person) are available in Luótiáncūn – ask for zhùsù (住宿; accommodation) – and there are a few restaurants by the main square.
To get here, take Bus 22 (¥1) from Nánchāng train station to a bus stop called Bayi Qiao (八一桥; 30 minutes), then walk 400m straight ahead to catch bus 136, from a bus stop underneath the flyover, to the small town of Ānyì (安义; ¥10, 90 minutes, frequent from 6am to 6pm). From Ānyì bus station, where the 136 terminates, take a bus to nearby Shíbí (石鼻; ¥5, 30 minutes, half-hourly, 7am to 5.30pm), but tell the ticket seller on the bus that you want to go to Luótiáncūn. They will then sell you a bus ticket which is also valid for the final 5km minibus ride to the village entrance. The last bus back to Nánchāng leaves Ānyì at 6.30pm.
Lúshān 庐山
%0792 / Pop 111,000
The drive up to Lúshān (庐山) weaves through thick forest and low-hanging clouds until you reach a town indelibly inked in the Chinese consciousness. Long revered as a Buddhist centre and as a spiritual retreat for European missionaries, Lúshān infiltrated the public imagination as the official summer residence of the Chinese Community Party.
The Taiping Rebellion in the mid-19th century destroyed most of the spiritual sites, though some 20th-century European-style villas still dot the hillsides. These days, however, most people come simply to escape the scorching summer heat of Nánchāng (it's particularly popular at weekends).
1Sights & Activities
When it's not covered in mist, walking around here is pleasant: there are plenty of viewpoints, some waterfalls and a few notable villas to head for. Buy a bilingual map (地图 dìtú; ¥6) in Xīnhuá Bookstore, opposite the main square – called Jiēxīn Park (街心公园; Jiēxīn Gōngyuán) – and head off in whatever direction takes your fancy.
Lúshān National ParkMOUNTAIN
(庐山国家公园, Lúshān Guójiā Gōngyuán adult/student ¥180/135)
Venturing in any direction from the town of Lúshān will take you into the wilds of one of the most ethereal environments in this province. The 300-sq-km Lúshān National Park is best known for its strange rock formations that seem almost perennially covered in cloud. Loads of hiking trails are clearly marked and often paved. You pay to enter upon arrival at the foot of the mountain; all accommodation, restaurants and hiking trails are at the top.
Sāndiéquán WaterfallWATERFALL
(三叠泉瀑布, Sāndiéquán Pùbù )
The three-tiered waterfall inside Lúshān National Park is a highlight and just reward for hikers. The ascent of 1600m will test your knees, but press on to the top (or take the cable car) for tremendous, misty vistas.
4Sleeping
There are dozens of hotels lining the main road. You can negotiate during the week and in low season.
Lonely Planet China Page 92