Lúshān HotelHOTEL$
(庐山饭店, Lúshān Fàndiàn %0792 828 5430; www.lsfd.lsw.cn; 4 Guling Jie, 古岭街4号 r ¥80-130)
Pretty ordinary, but it's cheap, the closest to the bus station, there is a big TV in the lobby and staff are all smiles.
Dàzìrán Youth HostelHOSTEL$$
(大自然青年旅社, Dàzìrán Qíngnián Lǚshè %0792 829 6327; www.yhalushan.com; 1 Hubei Lu, 湖北路1号 dm/d ¥50/180, weekends dm/d ¥70/260; aiW)
It may feel a bit like a school camp with bedding for plenty and communal kitchens to feed a marching army, but the site is well managed and maintained and the views aren't to be scoffed at. Book ahead in summer, especially for the dorm beds.
It’s about a 1km walk from the bus station; from Guling Zhengjie turn left onto Henan Lu and continue for about 600m.
8Information
Xīnhuá BookstoreTOURIST INFORMATION
(新华书店, Xīnhuá Shūdiàn 11 Guling Zhengjie, 牯岭政街11号 )
Essential stop for maps and useful information on the town. Particularly important if your hotel owner doesn't speak English and you don't speak Chinese.
8Getting There & Away
In summer there are three direct buses to Lúshān from Nánchāng’s Qīngshān bus station. Otherwise, you'll have to first go to the small city of Jiǔjiāng (九江) at the foot of the mountain, then catch a bus up to Lúshān (¥15.5, one hour, hourly 6.50am to 4.30pm) from there. The last bus back down to Jiǔjiāng from Lúshān is at 5pm.
Buses from Jiǔjiāng long-distance bus station (九江长途汽车站; Jiǔjiāng chángtú qìchēzhàn):
ANánchāng ¥37, two hours, hourly until 7pm
AWǔhàn ¥100, 3½ hours, hourly until 5.30pm
AWùyuán ¥100, three hours, 8.30am, 11.50am and 2.30pm
Jǐngdézhèn 景德镇
%0798 / Pop 1.6 million
Jǐngdézhèn (景德镇) is a bustling, regional city synonymous with a thriving porcelain industry. For more than 1700 years, the kilns have fired some of the world's most recognisable and highly sought-after ceramic creations. Even those unaccustomed to the ways of the wheel will be stoked by the range of glazed wares on offer at the many small galleries around town.
Little of the city's architectural heritage remains – and the city's rich cultural history does not leap out at the unsuspecting visitor – but the city boasts a rejuvenated arts district known as the Sculpture Factory and it is well worth a day or two getting to know more about the precious 'white gold'.
1Sights
oSculpture FactoryARTS CENTRE
(雕塑瓷厂, Diāosù Cíchǎng 139 Xinchang Donglu, 新厂东路139号 )F
This tree-lined street, and the pathways that branch off it, form a kind of porcelain-production arts district, which is a centre for contemporary ceramics in China. Some of the world's leading porcelain artists work and teach here and visitors can wander freely around the kilns, workshops and small factories as the latest masterpieces are being sculpted. This is also the most pleasant place in town to shop for ceramics, including tea sets.
While here, ceramics enthusiasts should pay a visit to the Pottery Workshop. Casual visitors can ask to look around. Staff speak English, and there's a pleasant cafe on-site.
Bus 1, which runs along Zhushan Zhonglu in the centre of town, stops outside the south gate of the complex. Get off at Caojialing (曹家岭) bus stop, then walk through the archway opposite.
SānbǎoGALLERY
(三宝 %798 849 7505; www.chinaclayart.com; 588-680 Sanbao Lu, 三宝路588-680号 )F
About 12km southeast of the city is this wonderful ceramics 'institute' spread across four converted houses. The passion project of Jackson Li, a prominent Chinese artist, the set-up includes a high-end gallery featuring overseas exhibitions, workshops, and a very hip bar-restaurant.
Jǐngdézhèn Ancient KilnMUSEUM
(古窑, Gǔyáo GOOGLE MAP ; Cidu Dadao, 瓷都大道 ¥95; h8am-5pm)
A bit like a living museum, this large, nicely landscaped site contains traditional porcelain-making equipment, including revived ancient kilns, and has teams of staff demonstrating how they were once used. Some of the buildings here date from Qing and Ming times, although have been largely rebuilt. Bus 5 runs here from the train station, via Zhushan Xilu.
WORTH A TRIP
YáOLǐ
Situated on the banks of the Yáohé River, and surrounded by forested hills and tea plantations, Yáolǐ Ancient Village (瑶里古镇; Yáolǐ Gǔzhèn), 90 minutes from Jǐngdézhèn, is a gorgeous rural getaway.
Like Jǐngdézhèn, Yáolǐ was one of China's original centres for porcelain production, and there's an ancient kiln site you can visit here. The village itself is made up of elegant, moss-hewn, stone-walled courtyard homes, many of which are still lived in, and wandering its tight, riverside pathways is a treat.
It's free to walk around the village but you need a ticket to enter any of the notable buildings. The ¥150 'through ticket' gives you access to all the sights, but better value is the ¥60 ticket, which gets you in to the village's four best sights, including the Ancient Kiln and the engaging Chéng Ancestral Hall (程民宗词; Chéngmín Zōngcí), where you can buy your ticket.
The Ancient Kiln (古窑; Gǔyáo) is about 3km beyond the village (away from Jǐngdézhèn); walk along the country road and you'll see the entrance on your right. It contains a collection of sights, all strung out along a riverside walk (give yourself at least an hour here). Don't miss the Song dynasty 'dragon kiln' (龙窑; lóngyáo), which was built up a slope to increase the heat of the kiln's fire.
Simple restaurants, teahouses and family-run guesthouses (农家乐; nóngjiālè) are dotted around the village, including cute Píngcháng Rénjiā (平常人家 %150 7980 8902; Yáolǐ Gǔzhèn; 瑶里古镇 r ¥80; aW), to the left of the river as you enter the village.
Direct buses to Yáolǐ (¥14, 90 minutes) leave from Jǐngdézhèn's Lǐcūn bus station at 7.30am and 2.30pm, and return at 9am and 3.40pm. Alternatively, catch a bus to Éhú (鹅湖; every 20 minutes until 5pm) from the same station, then change for Yáolǐ (frequent). To get to Lǐcūn bus station, take Bus 1 to Lǐcūn bus stop, walk back on yourself, cross the junction and it will be on your right.
CCourses
Pottery WorkshopARTS CENTRE
(乐天陶社, Lètiān Táoshè %0798 844 0582; www.potteryworkshop.com.cn; inside Sculpture Factory arts district, 雕塑瓷厂内 residencies incl accommodation & meals per week ¥2600)
Runs highly regarded, month-long residency programs for artists.
4Sleeping
Jǐngdézhèn has a decent smattering of business hotels, and one excellent hostel.
oJǐngdézhèn International Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(景德镇国际青年旅舍, Jǐngdézhèn Guójì Qīngniánlǚshè %0798 844 8886, 0798 844 9998; [email protected]; south end of Sculpture Factory, 139 Xinchangdong Lu, 新厂东路139号（雕塑瓷厂前门口内 dm ¥45-50, r ¥128-148)
Located inside the Sculpture Factory arts district, about 3km east of the town centre, this is the only hostel in Jǐngdézhèn but is smart, clean and has English-speaking staff and a cafe. No website, but you can book through www.yhachina.com.
5Eating
Jǐngdézhèn's restaurants are the typical second-tier city range of delicious street fare, working-class restaurants and pan-Chinese banquet halls. Dig in.
oSānbǎo Shíguāng JiǔbāCHINESE$$
(三宝时光酒吧 %0798 848 3665; 588-680 Sanbao Lu, 三宝路588-680号 mains ¥20-50)
The Sānbǎo gallery's signature restaurant is perhaps the best in the city. A homely, artsy mood permeates the two floors of wooden furniture and fresh, simple chicken, pork and vegetable dishes. Cold beer flows (¥20).
8 Dù ChúfángJIANGXI$$
(八渡厨房, Bādù Chúfáng GOOGLE MAP ; 57 Guangchang Nanlu, 广场南路57号 mains ¥20-50; h11am-9.30pm)
Popular modern restaurant serving Jiāngxī specialities such a
s niúqi chōngtiān (牛气冲天; spicy beef claypot), xiāngcūn lǎodòufu (乡村老豆腐; village-style tofu) and hóngshāo huángyātou (红烧黄丫头; braised river fish).
7Shopping
Jīnchānglì Porcelain MarketMALL
(金昌利陶瓷大厦, Jīnchānglì Táocí Dàshà GOOGLE MAP ; 2 Zhushan Zhonglu, 珠山中路2号 h9am-6pm)
This multistorey shopping centre, specialising entirely in porcelain, isn't as pleasant a place to shop for ceramics as the Sculpture Factory, but it sure does stock a lot of tea sets!
8Getting There & Away
Air
From Jǐngdézhèn Luōjiā Airport (景德镇罗家机场), Air China flies daily to Běijīng and Shenzhen Airlines makes the daily Shànghǎi trip.
Bus
Jǐngdézhèn's main bus station is called Xīkè Zhàn (西客站 GOOGLE MAP ; Yingbin Dadao; 迎宾大道 ). Services include the following:
ANánchāng ¥85, three hours, hourly 6.50am to 7.30pm
ANánchāng Airport ¥60, three hours, every two hours, 6.50am to 5.50pm
AJiǔjiāng ¥56, 90 minutes, hourly 7.30am to 6.30pm
AWùyuán ¥30, one hour, 7.40am and 1.40pm
AYīngtán ¥61, 2½ hours, 7.40am, 9.15am, 1.20pm and 5pm
AYùshān ¥91, four hours, 8.20am
Train
There's a train-ticket booking office beside Jǐnjiāng Inn (锦江之星; Jǐnjiāng Zhīxīng GOOGLE MAP ; %0798 857 1111; www.jinjianginns.com; 1 Zhushan Xilu; 珠山西路1号 r from ¥169; aW). Services include the following:
ABěijīng K-class hard sleeper ¥337, 23 hours, 5.31am
AHuáng Shān K-class hard seat ¥25, three to four hours, two daytime trains (5.21am and 6.43pm)
ANánchāng K-class hard seat ¥41 to ¥47, five hours, two daily (7.05am and 1.49pm)
AShànghǎi K-class hard sleeper ¥194, 16 hours, 6.43pm
8Getting Around
The airport shuttle bus (机场巴士; jīchǎng bāshì; ¥10) meets arriving flights and goes to the train station, via the bus station and People's Sq (人民广场; Rénmín Guǎngchǎng). A taxi costs at least ¥70.
Wùyuán 婺源
%0793 / Pop 134,100
Wùyuán (婺源) is home to some of southeastern China’s most immaculate views. Parcelled away in this hilly pocket is a scattered cluster of picturesque Huīzhōu villages, where old China remains preserved in enticing panoramas of ancient bridges, trickling streams and stone-flagged alleyways.
Despite lending its name to the entire area, the main town of Wùyuán itself is a fairly bog-standard town, but it has some comfortable hotels, and you can arrange bicycle hire here for cycling trips into the far more arresting countryside.
2Activities
Wùyuán county has a number of villages spread out of a roughly 30km radius. Wengong Beilu (文公北路), and its southern extension Wengong Nanlu (文公南路), is the main north–south drag in the more modern town centre, also known as Wùyuán.
Merida Bike ShopCYCLING
(美利达自行车, Měilìdá Zìxíngchē %0793 734 1818, 135 1703 3662; Liangli Shanlu, 凉笠山路二环路南段 h8.30am-9pm)
Rents good-quality second-hand mountain bikes for ¥30 per day (deposit ¥500). It has helpful staff. It's located a short walk downhill from Tiānmǎ Hotel. Turn left at the crossroads, then second left.
Héngyuán ChēhángCYCLING
(恒元车行 %0793 734 6328; Wengong Beilu, 文公北路 h7am-7pm)
Rents cheap, but brand-new mountain bikes for ¥50 per day (deposit ¥600). Just up from the crossroads with Chaxiang Xilu (茶乡西路), next to 'Heaven and the World' KTV club.
4Sleeping
Yíngdū BīnguǎnHOTEL$
(迎都宾馆 %0793 734 8620; 13 Wengong Nanlu, 文公南路13号 r ¥100; aiW)
Centrally located hotel in reasonable condition. Get Bus 1 to People's Hospital (Rénmín Yīyuàn); it's on the right.
Tiānmǎ HotelHOTEL$$
(天马大酒店, Tiānmǎ Dàjiǔdiàn %0793 736 7123; www.wytm.cn; 119 Wengong Beilu, 文公北路119号 r incl breakfast from ¥628; aiW)
This smart hotel, opposite Běizhàn (north bus station), is comfortable.
Can be discounted to ¥158 when quiet.
8Information
ATMs are plentiful in Wùyuán, but not in the villages, so load up with cash here.
People’s HospitalHOSPITAL
(人民医院, Rénmín Yīyuàn Wengong Nanlu, 文公南路 )
Bus 1 goes here.
Public Security BureauPOLICE
(PSB, 公安局, Gōng’ānjú 2 Huancheng Beilu; h8-11.30am & 2.30-5.30pm)
Bus 1 goes here.
Qǐháng WǎngbāINTERNET
(启航网吧 Wengong Nanlu, 文公南路 per hour ¥3; h24hr)
Internet cafe; next to People’s Hospital.
Xīnhuá BookstoreTOURIST INFORMATION
(新华书店, Xīnhuá Shūdiàn Tianyou Xilu, 天佑西路 h8am-8pm)
The Wùyuán Tourist Map (旅游交通图; lǚyóu jiāotōng tú; ¥6) sold here is in Chinese only, but includes a street map of Wùyuán town and a road map of the surrounding countryside. Very useful if you intend to cycle out to the villages. Bus 1 goes here, or walk downhill along Wengong Nanlu, bear left and it's on your left.
8Getting There & Around
Local Bus 1 (¥1; 6am to 6pm), from Wùyuán bus station forecourt, goes to north bus station and People's Hospital before terminating at the new train station.
Bus
Wùyuán bus station (婺源汽车站; Wùyuán qìchēzhàn) is about 2km west of town. Bus services include the following:
AHángzhōu ¥140, 3½ hours, 9.10am, 1.30pm and 4.30pm
AJiǔjiāng ¥100, 2½ hours, 8.20am, 11.50am and 2.30pm
ANánchāng ¥111, 3½ hours, 8am, 10am, 12.10pm, 2pm and 5pm
ASānqīng Shān (east section) ¥32, 1½ hours, 11am
AShànghǎi South ¥210, six hours, 9.50am and 10.30am
ATúnxī ¥46, 2½ hours, 8.20am and 1.20pm
AYùshān ¥46, 2½ hours, 8.10am, 11am and 1.20pm
Services from the smaller north bus station (北站; Běizhàn) include the following:
AGuānkēng ¥23, 2½ hours, 7am, 8.30am, 11am and 2.30pm
ALǐkēng ¥6, 20 minutes, half-hourly (6.30am to 5.20pm)
ALǐngjiǎo ¥20, 90 minutes, 8am, 9.20am, 10.30am, 1.30pm and 3.10pm
AQīnghuá (via Sīkǒu) ¥10, 30 minutes, half-hourly (7am to 5pm)
AXiǎoqǐ ¥15, one hour, hourly (6.30am to 3.30pm)
Train
Wùyuán's train station (火车站; huǒchēzhàn) is an impressive structure on the outskirts of the city centre. Moto-taxis line the exit to take you to the various villages. The high-speed rail line connects Fúzhōu to Héféi, where it connects with another high-speed line to Běijīng.
Destinations include:
ABěijīng South, G-class, hard seat, ¥577, seven hours, 9.13am, 11.25am and 1.02pm
AFúzhōu, G-class, hard seat, ¥196, two to 2½ hours, 10 daily
AGuǎngzhōu South G-class, hard seat, seven hours, 4.33pm
ANánchāng West K-class, hard seat ¥150, two to 2½ hours, 11.10am, 11.58am and 4.33pm
AShànghǎi Hongqiao G-class, hard seat, ¥269, four hours, 2.57pm
Around Wùyuán
Wùyuán is home to some of southeastern China’s most immaculate views. The main reason to come to this region is to explore the numerous villages which retain their architectural integrity amid splendid pastoral settings.
It is enjoying a renaissance among domestic tourists; hence the crowds on weekends.
Walking
Many of Wùyuán’s villages are linked by time-worn postal roads (驿道; yìdào) that today provide hikers with the perfect excuse to explore the area’s gorgeous backcountry: imagine wild azalea, wisteria and iris blooms dotting steep hills cut by cascading streams and you’re off to the right start.
Most trails are difficult to navigate without help from a local, but one f
abulous 8km-long, three-hour trail linking the rarely visited villages of Guānkēng (官坑) and Lǐngjiǎo (岭脚) has bilingual signposts along its route, so can be done independently.
The path takes you up and over a pass, and has numerous steps, so it's not feasible if you've cycled out here.
Follow the hiking sign beside Guānkēng Fàndiàn, in Guānkēng village, and head straight upstream. After the second pavilion (near the top of the pass) turn left, then right immediately afterwards, to continue on the path to Lǐngjiǎo, from where you can catch a bus back to Wùyuán (¥20, 90 minutes, 7am, 11.30am and 1pm).
Cycling
Though you can reach most of Wùyuán's villages by bus, cycling gives you more freedom to village-hop around the surrounding countryside. Roads are in good nick and well signposted in pinyin as well as Chinese characters. You can pick up a Chinese map of the area from Xīnhuá Bookstore.
One possible two- to three-day trip is the 130-km circuit from Wùyuán, passing Lǐkēng, Xiǎoqǐ and the Duànxīn Reservoir, before looping back to Wùyuán via Qīnghuá and Sīkǒu. Follow Wengong Beilu north out of Wùyuán to pick up signs to Lǐkēng.
How long the circuit takes you depends on how much time you spend in each village, but the total cycling time (not including side trips to villages such as Guānkēng and Lǐngjiǎo, both 30 minutes from the main road) is about seven or eight hours. You could do it in two days, but taking three days makes more sense.
Some roads are hilly, but the only really tough climb is the one-hour slog from Jiānglǐng up to the Duànxīn Reservoir.
Lonely Planet China Page 93