Individual cycling times from Wùyuán to various villages:
Lǐkēng one hour
Wāngkǒu 90 minutes
Xiǎoqǐ 2½ hours
Guānkēng 4½ hours
Sīkǒu one hour
Qīnghuá 90 minutes
In Wùyuán, numerous places rent bikes; don't forget to ask for a bike lock (车锁; chēsuǒ).
Wāngkǒu 汪口
Less popular than some of the other ticketed villages, Wāngkǒu (¥60), 9km northeast of Lǐkēng, enjoys a fine location beside a rushing weir at the confluence of two large rivers.
Xiǎoqǐ 晓起
About 35km from Wùyuán, Xiǎoqǐ (¥60) dates to AD 787. There are actually two villages here: the larger, more touristy lower Xiǎoqǐ (下晓起; Xià Xiǎoqǐ) and the much quieter upper Xiǎoqǐ (上晓起; Shàng Xiǎoqǐ), where you’ll find a fascinating old tea factory (传统生态茶作坊; chuántǒng shēngtài chá zuòfang). The two are linked by a time-worn, 500m-long stone pathway. Both parts of the village have accommodation.
Lǐngjiǎo 岭脚
Lǐngjiǎo is best known as one end of the old Qing postal route which now serves as one of Wùyuán's most spectacular and manageable hikes. The village itself is magical and pristine. There is not much to do, but it has a couple of basic restaurants for pre- or post-hike sustenance. A new guesthouse has just opened up, run by an ex-Shanghai travel writer.
Little Lǐkēng 小李坑
%0793 / Pop 15,000
Little Lǐkēng (小李坑; Xiǎo Lǐkēng) is the most popular village in the area due to its Song dynasty houses and buzzing laneways. The walk in from the car park is beautiful, despite the train line running overhead: winding, lantern-strewn river with punters offering lifts on bamboo barges, narrow footbridges dissecting the valley floor. After sunset, visitors fill the riverside lanes for chrysanthemum tea, rice wine and trinkets, snapping photos of rooftops glowing under red lanterns and old-fashioned street lamps.
Note, there is another, plain-old Lǐkēng (李坑) village in the north of the county.
1Sights & Activities
Walk in any direction and you will hit the countryside.
Lǐkēng’s highly photogenic focal point hinges on the confluence of its two streams, traversed by the bump of the 300-year-old Tōngjì Bridge (通济桥; Tōngjì Qiáo) and signposted by the Shēnmíng Pavilion (申明亭; Shēnmíng Tíng), one of the village’s signature sights, its wooden benches polished smooth with age.
Among the báicài (Chinese cabbage) draped from bamboo poles and chunks of cured meat hanging out in the air from crumbling, mildewed buildings, notable structures include the Patina House (铜录坊; Tónglù Fáng), erected during Qing times by a copper merchant, the rebuilt old stage (古戏台; gǔxìtái), where Chinese opera and performances are still held during festivals, and spirit walls erected on the riverbank to shield residents from the sound of cascading water.
Admission to the village costs ¥60.
Dáfū MansionHISTORIC BUILDING
(達夫大厦, Dáfū Dàshà )
This former Qing governor residence is a fine example of the period. Pay special attention to the doorway and entrance gate.
4Sleeping & Eating
Lǐsi Cháhàn GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(李斯察汗, Lǐsi Cháhàn %0793 737 0149; Little Lǐkēng, 小李坑 d ¥150-200; aW)
Above the Lǐsi family tea shop is a new guesthouse featuring large, clean rooms, with TV, hot running water and village views from some of the rooms. The old couple in charge will do everything they can to make you feel comfortable.
Brook HotelGUESTHOUSE$$
(傍溪居, Bàng Xī Jū %138 7934 9519, 138 7032 7901; [email protected]; d ¥120; aW)
The most established guesthouse in the village is on the right-hand side of Tōngjì Bridge as you walk into the village. Rooms are clean and spacious, and there are also some slightly cheaper ones in a newer build just off the river. The owner 'Linda' speaks some English and yummy meals are available on-site.
Guāngmíng TeahouseCHINESE$$
(光明茶楼, Guāngmíng Chálóu %0793 737 0999; mains ¥15-50; aW)
The best restaurant in Little Lǐkēng is the charming Guāngmíng Teahouse. It acts as an informal thoroughfare to the best photo spot in the village, perched above the village stream. It's a lovely spot to try the local hóng lǐyú (red carp; 红鲤鱼). There's an English menu.
8Getting There & Around
Irregular buses travel the road past the village turn-off, from where it’s a five-minute walk to the ticket office. It's easier and more reliable to catch a moto-taxi (¥40 from Wùyuán, 20 minutes) or a regular taxi.
Qīnghuá 清华
%0793 / Pop 40,000
Qīnghuá is the main village in Wùyuán. While there is not a lot to endear it to travellers, it's conveniently located for access to a number of the tourist villages, plus it's a handy place to stock up on supplies, including cash at the one ATM.
Laojie (老街; Old Street), which leads down to the 800-year-old Rainbow Bridge (彩虹桥; Cǎihóng Qiáo), is the town's most interesting street.
There are a few simple guesthouses (客栈; kèzhàn) on Laojie and one or two decent business hotels.
Lǎojiē KèzhànBUSINESS HOTEL$
(老街客栈 %0793 724 2359; 355 Qinghua Laojie, 清华老街355号 s/d ¥50/60; aW)
The welcoming Old Street does the trick with its simple, spotless rooms. The manager has good local knowledge.
Qinghua HostelHOSTEL$$
(清华宾馆, Qīnghuá Bīnguǎn %0793 724 2789; Zhengfu Lu, 镇政府路 r ¥138; aW)
More hotel than hostel, but nonetheless friendly and fairly new. Next door to a supermarket and close to the famed Rainbow Bridge.
The best restaurants are on Laojie (老街; Old Street).
Buses leave from the turn-off into the town to Jǐngdézhèn( ¥25, two hours, 7.20am, 8.30am and 2pm) and Wùyuán (via Sīkǒu; ¥10, 30 minutes, half-hourly 6am to 5pm).
Buses between Wùyuán and Lǐngjiǎo also stop here.
Guānkēng 官坑
%0793 / Pop 3500
Guānkēng (官坑) is a low-key Wùyuán village set between two valleys in the north of the county. It may lack the architectural heritage of its neighbours, but the absence of tour buses more than compensates.
Guānkēng is best known in travel circles as the start or end point of a wonderful three-hour hike to the equally quiet village of Lǐngjiǎo.
A handful of guesthouses cater to independent travellers, and can provide information on hiking. Guānkēng Fàndiàn (官坑饭店 %0793 725 9588; beside the arched bridge; per person ¥40; aW) is a friendly and welcoming guesthouse beside the arched bridge. It serves hearty hiking fare and the man of the house speaks some English.
By far the easiest and fastest way to get here is via taxi (¥100, 30 minutes) or moto-taxi (¥80 per person), which are usually waiting in the car park or on the main road. Buses from here to Wùyuán (¥22, two hours) leave at 6am, 6.40am, 7.30am and 11am.
Sīxī & Yáncūn 思溪、延村
%0793 / Pop 30,000
Less hectic than other parts of Wùyuán, but with a small independent travel scene and stunning natural surrounds, these charming twin villages are among the most favoured by return visitors to the county.
Sīxī (思溪) and Yáncūn (延村) are quintessential Qing chic, with the prow-shaped, covered wooden Tōngjì Bridge (通济桥; Tōngjì Qiáo) at Sīxī's entrance, dating to the 15th century. Follow the signs to the numerous Qing dynasty residences, making sure not to miss the large Jìngxù Hall (敬序堂; Jìngxù Táng). A 15-minute walk back along the road, towards Sīkǒu, brings you to Yáncūn, Sīxī’s more homely sibling, where you'll find yet more Qing architecture.
Admission to the villages costs ¥60.
There is one incredible hotel in Yáncūn, plus a few more typical guesthouses in Sīxī. You can also stay outside the paid area in Sīkǒu town where an excellent new hotel is
proving popular.
oWángjiā Huīyuàn InnBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(王家徽院, Wángjiā Huīyuàn Sīkǒu town, 思口镇政府侧 d from ¥250; aW)
Two brothers and their father have re-created a period mansion using their own incredibly deft touch and indefatigable work ethic. The result is splendid and makes a handy alternative to staying within Sīxī village proper, some 3km away. Plans are afoot to extend out back.
Sīkǒu is a much larger town than the more popular Sīxī and Yáncūn and buses run more regularly around the region.
oGo Home HotelHERITAGE HOTEL$$$
(归去来兮, Guīqù Láixī %0793 733 5118; Yáncūn Village, 延村 r incl breakfast ¥328-1180; aW)
Housed in a 270-year-old former residence, this immaculately renovated boutique hotel in Yáncūn is the most appealing place to stay in any of the villages around Wùyuán. Each room is different (ask to see them all), but decorated beautifully with period wooden furniture. Lunch and dinner cost ¥50 each.
No website, but you can book a room through www.ctrip.com (search for Guiqulaixi Hotel).
To get here, take any Wùyuán–Qīnghuá bus (¥3, 20 minutes) and get off at Sīkǒu (思口). Motorbikes will take you the rest of the way (¥5), or just walk (3km).
Sānqīng Shān 三清山
%0793
Sānqīng (三清) means ‘The Three Pure Ones’, and you won't find a mountain park in China more serendipitous than this triumvirate of natural majesty, believed to resemble Taoism’s three most important deities. Concrete may encroach underfoot, and a cable car whir overhead, but consider the architectural feat as you hike around sheer rock face, looking out onto a forest of fantastical granite spires and a gorgeous canopy sprinkled with white rhododendron blooms.
Unlike Huáng Shān, its more famous neighbour to the north, Sānqīng Shān has a spiritual legacy and has been a place of retreat for Taoist adepts for centuries. Views are spectacular in any season, reaching a climax amid the flowering buds of late May.
The main town near the mountain park is Yùshān; this is where you'll find the train and bus station.
1Sights
Taoist Sānqīng TempleTAOIST SITE
(三清宫, Sānqīng Gōng )
Established during the Ming dynasty, this is one of the few Taoist temples in Jiāngxī to have survived the Cultural Revolution.
Nánqīng GardenMOUNTAIN
(南清苑, Nánqīng Yuàn )
Sānqīng Shān's main summit area is known as the Nánqīng Garden, a looping trail that wends beneath strange pinnacles and connects the southern and eastern sections.
2Activities
Hiking is the activity you come for, or at least some kind of gazing into the great abyss. There are two main access points: the southern section (南部; nán bù) and the eastern section (东部; dōng bù). You can buy maps (¥5), or photograph the ones on the signboards.
West Coast TrailHIKING
(西海岸, Xī Hǎi’àn )
The spectacularly exposed West Coast Trail was built into the cliff face at an average altitude of 1600m. This trail eventually leads to the secluded Taoist Sānqīng Temple, established during the Ming dynasty.
Sunshine Coast TrailHIKING
(阳光岸, Yángguāng Àn )
The Sunshine Coast Trail winds through a forest of ancient rhododendrons, sweet chestnut, bamboo, magnolia and pine, and even features a glass-floored observation platform. There are lots of steps here; take it on the way back from the Taoist Sānqīng Temple.
HIKING TIMES
Estimated hiking times from the southern-section trailhead:
Atop of southern-section cable car: 1½ hours
Atop of eastern-section cable car: three hours
Abottom of eastern-section cable car: five hours
ANánqīng Garden loop and back: four hours
4Sleeping
You can sleep in three areas: on the summit, at the trailheads or in the town of Yùshān. Prices rise on weekends, when it's a good idea to reserve if you want to sleep at the trailheads or on the summit.
Fāngfāng BīnguǎnGUESTHOUSE$
(芳芳宾馆 %187 7931 6629, 0793 220 5890; off Renmin Dadao, 人民大道日景现代城 s/d ¥60/100; ai)
In the collection of simple family-run guesthouses near the Yùshān bus station, Fāngfāng is our pick thanks to that age-old combination of cleanliness, friendliness and value. Left, then second left.
International Trade HotelHOTEL$$
(国贸大酒店, Guómào Dàjiǔdiàn %0793 235 3922; Renmin Beilu, 人民北路汽车站对面 r ¥218; pai)
If you need to iron your fanny pack or test your new hiking shoes on faux-marble lobby floors, this smart business hotel with good-value, spacious rooms will prepare you for the challenge ahead. It's opposite the bus station.
Sānqīngshān International ResortHOTEL$$$
(三清山国际度假酒店, Sānqīngshān Guójì Dùjià Jiǔdiàn %0793 223 3333; 三清山风景名胜区南部外双溪 tw from ¥1788; aW)
Surprisingly luxurious hotel located at the southern trailhead outdoes Sānqīng Shān's oft-greedy hoteliers at every level. Wrangle the price down and you have yourself an excellent-value, customer-focused, amenity-stacked, buffet-breakfast-serving oasis on the edge of the great outdoors.
Rates may be discounted to ¥888 during off-peak periods.
Rìshàng BīnguǎnHOTEL$$$
(日上宾馆 %0793 218 9377; r from ¥480)
About a 10-minute climb from Sānqīng's southern chairlift is the welcoming, pale blue-Rìshàng, which has a stupendous viewing deck and neat, renovated rooms. If it's full, you won't go wrong with the options either side.
5Eating
Yùshān has the greatest variety of restaurants at competitive prices. As you ascend the mountain, the food gets a little greasy and overpriced.
Xīntíngjì TǔcàiguǎnJIANGXI$$
(新廷记土菜馆 Renmin Dadao, 日景现代城国际公寓号 mains ¥20-50; h9am-9pm)
The shiny photos match the delicious offerings at this quiet eatery near the Yùshān bus station. Specialities include jīnpái guōmèn tǔjī (金牌锅焖土鸡; free-range chicken casserole), xiǎochǎo huángniúròu (小炒黄牛肉; spicy beef stir-fry) and suìjiāo báiyù dòu (碎椒白玉豆; a simple but tasty broad-bean dish). Turn left out of the bus station and it's on your left, just before the crossroads.
8Getting There & Away
Sānqīng Shān is accessed via the town of Yùshān (玉山). The 11am bus from Wùyuán to Yùshān stops at Sānqīng Shān (eastern section). The return to Wùyuán leaves at around 7pm.
Bus
Yùshān bus station (玉山汽车站; Yùshān qìchēzhàn) services:
AHángzhōu ¥105, four hours, 7.30am, 9am, 11.20am and 3.30pm
ANánchāng ¥80, four to five hours, 7.10am and 3pm
AShànghǎi ¥145, 5½ hours, 10am
AWùyuán ¥45, 2½ hours, 7.55am and 1.20pm
Train
Local bus 8 (¥1) links the train and bus stations, but is only hourly. A motor-rickshaw costs around ¥8. Destinations from Yùshān train station (玉山火车站; Yùshān huǒchēzhàn) include the following:
AHángzhōu K-class hard seat ¥52, four to five hours, four morning trains (6.47am, 6.54am, 7.05m and 8.38am)
AShànghǎi South K-class hard seat/sleeper ¥75/138, seven hours, seven daily
AYīngtán K-class hard seat ¥24, two hours, six daytime trains (8.39am to 5.10pm)
The bullet train from Chángshā to Hángzhōu passes through the Yùshān South Train Station (玉山火车南站; Yùshan Huǒchē Nánzhàn).
Services include the following:
ANánchāng G-class hard seat ¥44, one hour, 13 daily
AShànghǎi Hongqiao G-class hard seat, ¥214, 2½ hours, nine daily
8Getting Around
Buses (¥17, 80 minutes, 6.30am to 5.20pm) run from Yùshān bus station to the start of both the eastern section (东部) and southern section (南部)
– make sure you specify your destination, as no buses link the two sections and they are at least 20km apart. The last buses back to Yùshān leave just after 4.30pm.
A cable car (三清山索道; Sānqīng Shān Suǒdào 1-way/return ¥70/125) leaves from both sections. The eastern-section cable-car ride is more spectacular, but leaves you further from the West Coast Trail; if you’re walking, the southern section is a much shorter hike. Note, you can use your return ticket on either cable car.
Lónghŭ Shān 龙虎山
%0701
Lónghǔ Shān (龙虎山) is billed as a natural Taoist wonderland, welcoming visitors of all ages to find 'The Way'. While the family-centred entertainment – gentle raft rides, climbing shows, miniature train and 4D cinema – make passable fun, the real draw is the park's location by a winding river, where clusters of red sandstone peaks overlook grazing water buffalo and solitary herons. It's an easily packaged taste of the lush Jiāngxī countryside.
During the Song dynasty (960–1279) Lónghǔ Shān became the centre of the emergent Zhèngyī sect, which claimed to represent the teachings of religious Taoism’s founder, Zhang Daoling (34–156). Together with the Quánzhēn sect, Zhèngyī Taoism was one of the most prominent schools of Taoism in late imperial China, and there were more than 100 temples and monasteries here before the Cultural Revolution swept into town.
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