Lonely Planet China
Page 102
oKowloon ParkPARK
(九龍公園 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lcsd.gov.hk; Nathan & Austin Rds, Tsim Sha Tsui; h6am-midnight; c; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit C2)
Built on the site of a barracks for Indian soldiers in the colonial army, Kowloon Park is an oasis of greenery and a refreshing escape from the hustle and bustle of Tsim Sha Tsui. Pathways and walls criss-cross the grass, birds hop around in cages, and ancient banyan trees dot the landscape. In the morning the older set practise taichi amid the serene surrounds, and on Sunday afternoon Kung Fu Corner stages martial-arts displays.
Hong Kong Cultural CentreNOTABLE BUILDING
(香港文化中心 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lcsd.gov.hk; 10 Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h9am-11pm; fStar Ferry, mEast Tsim Sha Tsui, exit J)
Overlooking the most beautiful part of the harbour, the aesthetically challenged and windowless Cultural Centre is a world-class venue containing a 2085-seat concert hall, a Grand Theatre that seats 1750, a studio theatre for up to 535, and rehearsal studios. On the building’s south side is the beginning of a viewing platform from where you can gain access to the Tsim Sha Tsui East Promenade.
Bruce Lee statue by artist Cao Chong-en, Hong Kong | EVERYTHING/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
New Territories
The New Territories offers much cultural and natural interest. Ancient walled villages (Sheung Shui, Fan Ling, Yuen Long), wetlands teeming with birds and aquatic life (Yuen Long), temples (Tsuen Wan, Sha Tin, Fan Ling), a solid museum in Sha Tin, and generous expanses of unspoiled country are just some of its attractions. Notably, Sai Kung Peninsula has fabulous hiking trails, delicious seafood and attractive beaches. And, of course, there's the awe-inspiring Hong Kong Unesco Global Geopark.
oHong Kong Global GeoparkPARK
(香港地質公園 www.geopark.gov.hk)
Part of the Unesco Global Geopark Network, the spectacular Hong Kong Global Geopark consists of two regions of rock formations – volcanic rock formations from 140 million years ago and sedimentary rock formations from 400 million years ago – and a total of eight major groups of sites dispersed over 50 sq km in the eastern and northeastern New Territories. The best way to experience either region is by joining a guided boat tour. The Recommended Geopark Guide System (hkr2g.net) has recommendations.
oLai Chi WoVILLAGE
(荔枝窩 GOOGLE MAP ; hakkahomelcw@gmail.com)
This 400-year-old village inside Plover Cove Country Park is arguably Hong Kong's best-preserved Hakka walled village and has an intact feng shui woodland. Featuring 200 houses, three ancestral halls, two temples, and a breezy square fringed by banyans and opening onto recently revived rice paddies, Lai Chi Wo is not only a sight to behold, but also one of Hong Kong's most biologically diverse freshwater wetlands.
Along a stream leading to the village is the looking-glass mangrove with buttress roots forming a lace-like pattern. Also here is the white-flower Derris, a climbing vine with long, supple branches like elongated arms that form a natural swing. The Derris plant is poisonous and can be used as a fish stunner or insecticide, but only the root is harmful and only when crushed – there are butterflies and dragonflies aplenty here, hovering over scuttling mangrove crabs.
A 5- to 7-hectare crescent-shaped wood embraces the village from behind – this is ideal for the feng shui of a Hakka village. Not only does having the backing of wood bring good luck, it fosters a good life. Thickly grown trees and shrubs serve as a natural barrier against enemies and the elements, and are a source of food, fuel and construction materials. Lai Chi Wo was once the most affluent Hakka walled village in the northeastern New Territories.
Though almost completely abandoned in the 1960s, Lai Chi Wo has been undergoing a revival thanks to the efforts of villagers, academics and conservationists. The growing of rice and vegetables has resumed on a cautious scale, pig and cow sheds have been restored, and shuttered village houses now function as education and research facilities.
The village runs 90-minute guided tours every Sunday and public holiday – the ecological tour at 11am, and the cultural tour at 11am and 1.30pm. There's also a fabulous Hakka sticky-rice dumpling making workshop from 1.30pm to 3pm. Register at the village square or inform them before you go to ensure a place.
Bespoke tours can be arranged on weekdays, but make contact at least two weeks in advance. Currently the 9am Sunday ferry from the Ma Liu Shui Pier is the only direct public transport to the village, but sailings are expected to increase in the near future. The return sailing is at 3.30pm. Lai Chi Wo is only a 10-minute boat ride from the frontier town of Sha Tau Kok, but you'll need the Lai Chi Wo volunteers to get you a permit as the pier is in a closed area.
Most Hong Kong Global Geopark Sedimentary Rock tours make a stop at Lai Chi Wo, or just hike there from Wu Kau Tang or Luk Keng, and lunch at Yau Kee (有記 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2674 0172, 852 9558 7787; Lai Chi Wo; HK$60-160; h10.30am-2pm Sun & public holidays, closed on rainy days).
All tour, workshop and sailing times given were valid at the time of research, but may be subject to change in the coming months.
Green minibus 20C, operating between Tai Po Market MTR station and Tai Mei Tuk, goes beyond Tai Mei Tuk to Wu Kau Tang once every one to two hours between 5.45am to 7.45pm daily, with the last minibus returning from Wu Kau Tang at around 8.15pm. From Wu Kau Tang, it's a 90-minute walk to Lai Chi Wo.
On Sundays and public holidays, bus route 275R goes from Tai Po Market MTR station to Bride’s Pool, which is only a 15-minute walk from Wu Kau Tang.
Green minibus 56K leaves Fanling MTR station for Luk Keng at 30-minute intervals on weekdays, and 10-minute intervals on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays. From Luk Keng, it's a two-hour walk to Lai Chi Wo.
oHong Kong Heritage MuseumMUSEUM
(香港文化博物館 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2180 8188; www.heritagemuseum.gov.hk; 1 Man Lam Rd; adult/concession HK$10/5, Wed free; h10am-6pm Mon & Wed-Sat, to 7pm Sun; c; mChe Kung Temple, exit A)
Southwest of Sha Tin town centre, this spacious, high-quality museum inside an ugly building gives a peek into local history and culture. Highlights include a children's area with interactive play zones, the New Territories Heritage Hall with mock-ups of traditional minority villages, the Cantonese Opera Heritage Hall, where you can watch old operas with English subtitles, and an elegant gallery of Chinese art. There's also a Bruce Lee exhibit, with some 600 items of the kung fu star's memorabilia on display until July 2018.
To reach the Hong Kong Heritage Museum from Che Kung Temple MTR station, walk east along Che Kung Miu Rd, go through the subway and cross the footbridge over the channel. The museum is 200m to the east.
Tai Po MarketMARKET
(大埔街市 GOOGLE MAP ; Fu Shin St, Tai Po; h6am-8pm; mTai Wo)
Not to be confused with the MTR station of the same name, this street-long outdoor wet market is one of the most winning in the New Territories. Feast your eyes on a rainbow of fruit and vegetables, tables lined with dried seafood, old ladies hawking glutinous Hakka rice cakes, and stalls selling fresh aloe and sugar cane juices.
oPing Shan Heritage TrailVILLAGE
(屏山文物徑 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2617 1959; Hang Tau Tsuen, Ping Shan, Yuen Long; hancestral halls & Tsui Sing Lau Pagoda 9am-1pm & 2-5pm Wed-Mon; mTin Shui Wai, exit E)
Hong Kong's first-ever heritage trail features historic buildings belonging to the Tangs, the first and the most powerful of the 'Five Clans'. Highlights of the 1km trail include Hong Kong's oldest pagoda Tsui Sing Lau Pagoda (聚星樓 GOOGLE MAP ; Ping Ha Rd, Ping Shan Heritage Trail; h9am-1pm, 2-5pm Wed-Sun; dTin Shui Wai), the magnificent Tang Clan Ancestral Hall (鄧氏宗祠 GOOGLE MAP ; Hang Tau Tsuen, Ping Shan, Yuen Long; h9am-1pm & 2-5pm Wed-Sun; mTin Shui Wai, exit E), a temple, a study hall, a well and Ping Shan Tang Clan Gallery (屏山鄧族文物館 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2617 1959; Hang Tau Tsuen, Ping Shan, Yuen Long; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; dPing Shan) inside an old police station built by the British as much to monitor the coastline as to keep an eye on the clan.
Cro
ss Tsui Sing Rd from the ground floor of the MTR station and you'll see the pagoda. Set aside two hours for the trail.
oHong Kong Wetland ParkPARK
(香港濕地公園 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 3152 2666; www.wetlandpark.gov.hk; Wetland Park Rd, Tin Shui Wai; adult/concession HK$30/15; h10am-5pm Wed-Mon; c; g967, d705, 706)
This 60-hectare ecological park is a window on the wetland ecosystems of northwest New Territories. The natural trails, bird hides and viewing platforms make it a handy and excellent spot for birdwatching. The futuristic grass-covered headquarters houses interesting galleries (including one on tropical swamps), a film theatre, a cafe and a viewing gallery. If you have binoculars, bring them; otherwise be prepared to wait to use the fixed points in the viewing galleries and hides (towers or huts from where you can watch birds up close without being observed).
To reach Hong Kong Wetland Park, take the MTR West Rail to Tin Shui Wai and board light-rail line 705 or 706, alighting at the Wetland Park stop. It can also be reached directly from Hong Kong Island: jump on a 967 bus at Admiralty MTR bus station.
Mai Po Nature ReserveNATURE RESERVE
(米埔自然保護區 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2526 1011; www.wwf.org.hk; Mai Po, Sin Tin, Yuen Long; h9am-5pm; g76K from Sheung Shui East Rail or Yuen Long West Rail stations)
The 270-hectare nature reserve includes the Mai Po Visitor Centre at the northeastern end, where you must register; the Mai Po Education Centre to the south, with displays on the history and ecology of the wetland and Deep Bay; floating boardwalks and trails through the mangroves and mudflats; and a dozen hides (towers or huts from where you can watch birds up close without being observed). Disconcertingly, the cityscape of Shēnzhèn looms to the north.
Outlying Islands
From the old-world streetscapes of Cheung Chau and Peng Chau, to the monasteries and hiking trails of Lantau, and the waterfront seafood restaurants of Lamma, Hong Kong’s ‘Outlying Islands’ offer a host of sights and activities.
The sheer size of Lantau, Hong Kong's largest island, makes for days of exploration. The north tip of the island, home to the airport, Disneyland and the high-rise Tung Chung residential and shopping complex, is highly developed. But much of the rest of Lantau is still entirely rural. Here you'll find traditional fishing villages, empty beaches and a mountainous interior criss-crossed with quad-burning hiking trails.
Most visitors come to Lantau to visit Mickey or see the justly famous 'Big Buddha' statue, but be sure you get beyond the north side for a taste of a laid-back island where cows graze in the middle of the road, school kids gather seaweed with their grandparents in the shallow bays, and the odd pangolin is said to still roam the forested hillsides.
Lamma, Hong Kong's laid-back 'hippie island', is easily recognisable at a distance by the three coal chimneys crowning its hilly skyline. The chimneys stand out so much because Lamma, home to 6000 or so, is otherwise devoid of high-rise development. Here it's all about lush forests, hidden beaches and chilled-out villages connected by pedestrian paths. You won't see any cars here, but be prepared for spotting the odd snake.
Most visitors arrive in the main town of Yung Shue Wan, a counterculture haven popular with expats.
Small, dumb-bell–shaped Cheung Chau island is a popular getaway thanks to its beaches and its cute downtown lined with snack shops and incense-filled temples. Come here for an afternoon of temple touring, noshing on fish balls and exploring the rocky coastline. Or stay for a weekend at one of the many holiday rentals and treat yourself to a day of windsurfing lessons followed by an alfresco seafood dinner at one of several harbourside restaurants.
Hong Kong DisneylandAMUSEMENT PARK
(香港迪士尼樂園 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 183 0830; http://park.hongkongdisneyland.com; adult/child one-day ticket HK$539/385; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 9pm Sat & Sun; c; mDisney Resort Station)
Ever since it claimed Hong Kong in 2005, Disneyland has served as a rite of passage for the flocks of Asian tourists who come daily to steal a glimpse of one of America’s most famous cultural exports. It’s divided into seven areas – Main Street USA, Tomorrowland, Fantasyland, Adventureland, Toy Story Land, Mystic Point and Grizzly Gulch – but it's still quite tiny compared to the US version, and most of the attractions are geared towards families with small children.
PO LIN MONASTERY & BIG BUDDHA
oPo Lin Monastery & Big BuddhaBUDDHIST MONASTERY
(寶蓮禪寺 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2985 5248; Lantau Island; h9am-6pm)
Po Lin is a huge Buddhist monastery and temple complex that was built in 1924. Today it seems more of a tourist honeypot than a religious retreat, attracting hundreds of thousands of visitors a year and still being expanded. Most of the buildings you'll see on arrival are new, with the older, simpler ones tucked away behind them. The big draw is the enormous seated bronze Buddha, a must-see on any Hong Kong trip.
Commonly known as the ‘Big Buddha’, the Tian Tan Buddha is a representation of Lord Gautama some 23m high (or 26.4m with the lotus), or just under 34m if you include the podium. It was unveiled in 1993, and today it still holds the honour of being the tallest seated bronze Buddha statue in the world.
2Activities
Hong Kong offers countless ways to have fun and keep fit. From golf and soccer to cycling and windsurfing, you won’t be stumped for something active to do or somewhere to do it – for lists of fields, stadiums, beaches, swimming pools, water-sports centres etc, including equipment for hire, check the website or call the Leisure and Cultural Services Department (www.lcsd.gov.hk). There are also gyms, yoga studios and spas offering everything from aromatherapy to foot massage. If you prefer watching people play, the world’s most exciting dragon boat racing takes place right here!
oHigh Island Reservoir East DamHIKING
(萬宜水庫東霸 GOOGLE MAP )
A reservoir built in the 1970s, the South China Sea, and 14-million-year-old volcanic rocks make this one of Hong Kong's most breathtaking places. High Island Reservoir East Dam is in the only part of Hong Kong Global Geopark that's reachable on foot, and the only place where you can touch the hexagonal rock columns. The scenery is surreal and made even more so by the presence of thousands of dolosse blocks (huge cement barriers shaped like jacks) placed along the coast to break sea waves.
Hong Kong's second reservoir built by sealing off the coast with dams – Plover Cove was the first – High Island was constructed to provide fresh water to the territory when mainland China shut down supply during the 1967 riots. It was designed by Binnie & Partners of London and constructed by an Italian company, Vianini Lavori. At the southern end of East Dam, you'll see a giant dolos block in sky blue. It's a memorial erected by Vianini Lavori to those who died on the project. Nearby there's a slab of concrete that commemorates, in Chinese and English, the inauguration of the reservoir in 1978. The construction of the reservoir had one unintentional effect – it made a part of what 30 years later became Hong Kong Global Geopark accessible on foot. Off the coast of the southern end of the dam is Po Pin Chau (literally, Broken-Sided Island), a massive sea stack with rock columns all over its face like a giant pipe organ.
Country & Marine Parks AuthorityPARK
( GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2150 6868; www.afcd.gov.hk/english/country/cou_vis/cou_vis.html)
Has information about visiting Hong Kong's various country and marine parks.
Lantau PeakHIKING
(Fung Wong Shan; GOOGLE MAP )
Known as Fung Wong Shan (Phoenix Mountain) in Cantonese, this 934m-high peak is the second-highest in Hong Kong after Tai Mo Shan (957m) in the New Territories. The view from the summit is absolutely stunning, and on a clear day it's possible to see Macau 65km to the west. Watching the sun rise from the peak is a popular choice among hardy hikers. Some choose to stay at the Ngong Ping SG Davis Hostel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2985 5610; www.yha.org.hk; Ngong Ping; dm from HK$110, r from HK$400; g2 from Mui Wo, or 21, 23 from Tung Chung) and leave around 4am for the two-hour summit push.
If you're hiking
Lantau Peak as a day trip, take the MTR to Tung Chung, then take bus 3M to Pak Kung Au (tell the driver where you're getting off beforehand). From here, you'll follow the markers for section 3 of the Lantau Trail , ascending the peak and then descending the steps into Ngong Ping. This 4.5km route takes about three hours.
Tai Tam Waterworks Heritage TrailHIKING
(大潭水務文物徑 GOOGLE MAP )
This scenic 5km trail runs past reservoirs and a handsome collection of 20 historic waterworks structures – feats of Victorian utilitarian engineering that include bridges, aqueducts, valve houses, pumping stations and dams, many still working.
The trail, which ends at Tai Tam Tuk Raw Water Pumping Station, takes about two hours. Enter at Wong Nai Chung Gap near the luxury flats of Hong Kong Parkview, or at the junction of Tai Tam Rd and Tai Tam Reservoir Rd. On weekends you’ll see residents taking a walk with their dogs, kids, maids, chauffeurs and nannies.
From Admiralty MTR station, bus 6 takes you to Wong Nai Chung Reservoir. Walk east along Tai Tam Reservoir Rd.
Hong Kong Golf AssociationGOLF
(%852 2504 8659; www.hkga.com)
The HKGA is the authority that governs and promotes golfing events in Hong Kong, including the Hong Kong Open.