Lonely Planet China

by Lonely Planet

  Built around 1889, this Cantonese-style mansion with southern European elements belonged to merchant Lou Wa Sio (aka Lou Kau), who also commissioned the Lou Lim Ieoc Garden. Behind the grey facade, an intriguing maze of open and semi-enclosed spaces blurs the line between inside and outside. The flower-and-bird motif on the roof can also be found in the Mandarin's House and A-Ma Temple. Traditional craft workers often practise their art here during weekdays. Free guided tours in Chinese on weekends (10am to 7pm).

  Church of St DominicCHURCH

  (玫瑰堂, Igreja de São Domingos MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Largo de São Domingos; h10am-6pm; g3, 6, 26A)

  Smack in the heart of Macau's historic centre, this sunny yellow baroque church with a beautiful altar and a timber roof was founded by three Spanish Dominican priests from Acapulco, Mexico, in the 16th century, though the current structure dates from the 17th century. It was here, in 1822, that the first Portuguese newspaper was published on Chinese soil. The former bell tower now houses the Treasure of Sacred Art (聖物寶庫, Tresouro de Arte Sacra MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Largo de São Domingos; h10am-6pm), an Aladdin’s cave of ecclesiastical art and liturgical objects exhibited on three floors.

  Macau MuseumMUSEUM

  (澳門博物館, Museu de Macau MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %853 2835 7911; www.macaumuseum.gov.mo; 112 Praceta do Museu de Macau; MOP$15, 15th of month free; h10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun; g7, 8, disembark at Social Welfare Bureau)

  This interesting museum inside Monte Fort will give you a taste of Macau's history. The 1st floor introduces the territory's early history and includes an elaborate section on Macau's religions. Highlights of the 2nd floor include a recreated firecracker factory and a recorded reading in the local dialect by Macanese poet José dos Santos Ferreira (1919–93). The top floor focuses on new architecture and urban-development plans.

  Central Macau Peninsula

  1Top Sights

  1Sir Robert Ho Tung LibraryB4

  2St Joseph's Seminary & ChurchB4

  3St Lazarus Church DistrictF1

  1Sights

  4Church of St AugustineC4

  5Church of St DominicD2

  IACM Temporary Exhibition GalleryC3

  6Leal SenadoC3

  7Lou Kau MansionD3

  Macau MuseumE1

  8Monte FortE1

  Senate LibraryC3

  9Street of HappinessB3

  Treasure of Sacred ArtD2

  4Sleeping

  105Footway InnB1

  11San Va HospedariaB2

  5Eating

  12Clube Militar de MacauF4

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  13Macau SoulD1

  14Single OriginG1

  15Terra Coffee HouseC4

  7Shopping

  16Livraria PortuguesaE3

  Southern Macau Peninsula

  oMacau Museum of ArtMUSEUM

  (澳門藝術博物館, Museu de Arte de Macau MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %853 8791 9814; www.mam.gov.mo; Macau Cultural Centre, Avenida Xian Xing Hai; adult/child MOP$5/2, Sun free; h10am-6.30pm Tue-Sun; g1A, 8, 12, 23)

  This excellent five-storey museum has well-curated displays of art created in Macau and China, including paintings by Western artists like George Chinnery, who lived in the enclave. Other highlights are ceramics and stoneware excavated in Macau, Ming- and Qing-dynasty calligraphy from Guǎngdōng, ceramic statues from Shíwān (Guǎngdōng) and seal carvings. The museum also features 19th-century Western historical paintings from all over Asia, and contemporary Macanese art.

  Church of St AugustineCHURCH

  (聖奧斯定教堂, Igreja de Santo Agostinho MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2 Largo de St Agostinho; h10am-6pm; g3, 4, 6, 26A)

  The foundations of this church date from 1586 when it was established by Spanish Augustinians, but the present structure was built in 1814. The high altar has a statue of Christ bearing the cross, which is carried through the streets during the Procession of the Passion of Our Lord on the first Saturday of Lent, followed by thousands of devotees.

  Church of St LawrenceCHURCH

  (聖老楞佐教堂, Igreja de São Lourenço MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rua de São Lourenço; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun, 1-2pm Mon; g9, 16, 18, 28B)

  One of Macau's three oldest churches, St Lawrence was originally constructed of wood in the 1560s, then rebuilt in stone in the early 19th century. The neoclassical church has a magnificent painted ceiling and one of its towers once served as an ecclesiastical prison. Enter from Rua da Imprensa Nacional.

  Avenida da RepúblicaAREA

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; g6, 9, 16)

  Avenida da República, along the northwest shore of Sai Van Lake, is Macau's oldest Portuguese quarter. There are several grand colonial villas not open to the public here. The former Bela Vista Hotel, one of the most-storied hotels in Asia, is now the Residence of the Portuguese Consul-General (葡國駐澳門領事官邸; Consulado-Geral de Portugal em Macau MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rua do Boa Vista). Nearby is the ornate Santa Sancha Palace, once the residence of Macau’s Portuguese governors, and now used to accommodate state guests. Not too far away are beautiful, abandoned art deco–inspired buildings.

  A-Ma TempleTAOIST TEMPLE

  (媽閣廟, Templo de A-Ma MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rua de São Tiago da Barra; h7am-6pm; g1, 2, 5, 6B, 7)

  A-Ma Temple was probably already standing when the Portuguese arrived, although the present structure may date from the 16th century. It was here that fisherfolk once came to replenish supplies and pray for fair weather. A-Ma, aka Tin Hau, is the goddess of the sea, from which the name Macau is derived. It's believed that when the Portuguese asked the name of the place, they were told ‘A-Ma Gau’ (A-Ma Bay). In modern Cantonese, ‘Macau’ (Ou Mun) means ‘gateway of the bay’.

  Penha HillAREA

  (西望洋山, Colina da Penha MAP GOOGLE MAP ; g6, 9, 16)

  Towering above the colonial villas along Avenida da República is Penha Hill, the most tranquil and least-visited area of the peninsula. From here you’ll get excellent views of the central area of Macau. Atop the hill is the Bishop’s Palace, built in 1837 and a residence for bishops (not open to the public), and the Chapel of Our Lady of Penha (主教山小堂, Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Penha MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Penha Hill; h9am-5.30pm; g6B, 9, 16, 28B), once a place of pilgrimage for sailors.

  Maritime MuseumMUSEUM

  (海事博物館, Museu Marítimo MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %853 2859 5481; www.museumaritimo.gov.mo; 1 Largo do Pagode da Barra; adult MOP$3-10, child free; h10am-5.30pm Wed-Mon; g1, 2, 5, 6B, 7, 10)

  The highlights here are the interactive displays detailing the maritime histories of Portugal and China, the artefacts from Macau’s seafaring past, and the mock-ups of boats – including the long, narrow dragon boats used during the Dragon Boat Festival – and a Hakka fishing village.

  Macau Cultural CentreNOTABLE BUILDING

  (澳門文化中心, Centro Cultural de Macau MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %853 2870 0699; www.ccm.gov.mo; Avenida Xian Xing Hai; h9am-7pm Tue-Sun; g1A, 8, 12, 23)

  This US$100-million, 45,000-sq-metre contemporary concrete structure is the territory’s prime venue for cultural performances, from dance to theatre to multimedia shows. Creative Macau (創意空間 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %853 2875 3282; www.creativemacau.org.mo; Ground fl, Macau Cultural Centre, Avenida Xian Xing Hai; h2-7pm Mon-Sat; g1A, 8, 12, 23), an art space that runs exhibitions and poetry readings, is on the ground floor.

  MACAU IN ONE DAY

  Start in the Largo do Senado and wander up to the Ruins of the Church of St Paul. Spend an hour or so in the Macau Museum to give it all some context. Have lunch at Clube Militar de Macau, before getting a feel for Macau’s living history as you wander back through the tiny streets towards the Inner Harbour port and A-Ma Temple. Jump on a bus to sleepy Coloane Village. Take an easy stroll around here and bus it back to Taipa for some sightseeing and dinner at the lovely António. Then head for the gaudy magnificence of the Grand Lisboa Casino (新葡京 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %853 2838 2828; www.grandlisboa.com; Avenida de Lisboa, Macau Peninsula; g3, 10), before sauntering ov
er to Macau Soul for wine and jazz.

  Northern Macau Peninsula

  oGuia Fortress & Guia ChapelFORT

  (東望洋炮台及聖母雪地殿聖堂, Fortaleza da Guia e Capela de Guia MAP GOOGLE MAP ; hfortress 6am-6pm, chapel 10am-5.30pm; g2, 2A, 6A, 12, 17, 18, Flora Garden stop)F

  As the highest point on the peninsula, Guia Fort affords panoramic views of the city and, when the air is clear, across to the islands and China. At the top is the stunning Chapel of Our Lady of Guia, built in 1622 and retaining almost 100% of its original features, including some of Asia’s most important frescoes. Next to it stands the oldest modern lighthouse on the China coast (1865) – an attractive 15m-tall structure that is closed to the public.

  You could walk up, but it’s easier to take the Guia cable car that runs from the entrance of Flora Gardens, Macau’s largest public park.

  Casa GardenHISTORIC BUILDING

  (東方基金會會址 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 13 Praça de Luís de Camões; hgarden 9.30am-6pm daily, gallery open only during exhibitions 9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri; g8A, 17, 26)

  One of the oldest buildings in the city, this beautiful colonial villa was built in 1770. It was the headquarters of the British East India Company when it was based in Macau in the early 19th century. Today it's home to a small gallery that mounts interesting art exhibitions. Visitors can wander the slightly forlorn gardens.

  Flora GardensGARDENS

  (Jardim da Flora; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Travessa do Túnel; h8am-6pm, cable car closed Mon)

  The former grounds of a Portuguese mansion, this European-style garden is known for its cable car, which travels the short distance up Guia Hill, the highest point in the city and home to Guia Fortress & Guia Chapel. The park's tiny zoo is quite sad by global standards.

  Lou Lim Ieoc GardenGARDENS

  (盧廉若公園, Jardim Lou Lim Ieoc MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 10 Estrada de Adolfo de Loureiro; h6am-9pm; g2, 2A, 5, 9, 9A, 12, 16)

  Locals come to this lovely Sūzhōu-style garden to practise taichi, play Chinese music or simply relax among its lotus ponds and bamboo groves. The Victorian-style Lou Lim Ieoc Garden Pavilion (盧廉若公園, Pavilhão do Jardim de Lou Lim Ieoc MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %853 8988 4100; 10 Estrada de Adolfo de Loureiro; h9am-7pm Tue-Sun; g2, 2A, 5, 9, 9A, 12, 16) was where the Lou family received guests, including Dr Sun Yatsen, and is now used for exhibitions. Adjacent to the garden is the Macao Tea Culture House (澳門茶文化館, Caultura do Chá em Macau MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %853 2882 7103; Lou Lim Ieoc Garden, Avenida do Conselheiro Ferreira de Almeida; h9am-7pm Tue-Sun; g2, 2A, 5, 9, 9A, 12, 16), displaying Chinese tea-drinking culture with exhibits of teapots and paintings related to the coveted drink.

  Luís de Camões Garden & GrottoGARDENS

  (白鴿巢公園, Jardim e Gruta de Luís de Camões MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Praça de Luís de Camões; h6am-10pm; g8A, 17, 26)

  This relaxing garden with dappled meandering paths is dedicated to the one-eyed poet Luís de Camões (1524–80), who is said to have written part of his epic Os Lusíadas in Macau, though there is little evidence that he ever reached the city. You'll see a bronze bust (c 1886) of the man here. The wooded garden attracts a fair number of chess players, bird owners and Chinese shuttlecock kickers. The Sr Wong Ieng Kuan Library (白鴿巢公園黃營均圖書館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %853 2895 3075; Praça de Luís de Camões; h8am-8pm Tue-Sun) is also here.

  Lin Fung TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE

  (蓮峰廟, Lin Fung Miu MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Avenida do Almirante Lacerda; h7am-5pm; g1A, 8, 8A, 10, 28B)

  Dedicated to Kun Iam, the Goddess of Mercy, this Temple of the Lotus was built in 1592, but underwent several reconstructions from the 17th century. It used to host mandarins from Guǎngdōng province when they visited Macau. The most famous of these imperial visitors was Commissioner Lin Zexu, who was charged with stamping out the opium trade.

  Macau TowerLANDMARK

  (澳門旅遊塔, Torre de Macau MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %853 2893 3339; www.macautower.com.mo; Largo da Torre de Macau; observation deck adult/child MOP$135/70; h10am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat & Sun; g9A, 18, 23, 26, 32)

  At 338m, Macau Tower looms above the narrow isthmus of land southeast of Avenida da República. You can stay put on the observation decks on the 58th and 61st floors, or challenge yourself to some gravity-defying sport: the tower hosts a climbing wall, a bungee platform (said to be the highest commercial bungee jump in the world), a sky walk around the rim of the tower and more.

  Tap Seac SquareSQUARE

  (塔石廣場, Praca do Tap Seac MAP GOOGLE MAP ; g7, 8)

  This beautiful square surrounded by important historic buildings from the 1920s, such as the Cultural Affairs Bureau, Tap Seac Health Centre, Central Library, Library for Macau’s Historical Archives and Tap Seac Gallery (塔石藝文舘, Galeria Tap Seac MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.macauart.net/ts; 95 Avenida Conselheiro Ferreira de Almeida; h10am-9pm; g). It was designed by Macanese architect Carlos Marreiros. Marreiros also created the Tap Seac Health Centre, a contemporary interpretation of Macau’s neoclassical buildings.

  Old Protestant CemeteryCEMETERY

  (基督教墳場, Antigo Cemitério Protestante MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 15 Praça de Luís de Camões; h8.30am-5.30pm; g8A, 17, 26)

  As church law forbade the burial of non-Catholics on hallowed ground, this cemetery was established in 1821 as the last resting place of (mostly Anglophone) Protestants. Among those interred here are Irish-born artist George Chinnery (1774–1852), and Robert Morrison (1782–1834), the first Protestant missionary to China and author of the first Chinese-English dictionary.

  BRIGHT LIGHTS, SIN CITY

  A gambling mecca since the 19th century, Macau has lately been sprouting glitzy megacasinos like mushrooms after a rain. The change began when casino mogul Stanley Ho’s monopoly ended in 2002 and Las Vegas operators set up shop in competition. There are now more than 30 casinos in Macau, their total gaming revenue surpassing all of the world's major gambling jurisdictions combined. Macau Peninsula has most of the older, smaller casinos, while the newly infilled Cotai area is home to the new breed of casino-hotel-shopping-entertainment behemoths.

  Table games are the staple at casinos here – mostly baccarat, then roulette and a dice game called dai sai (big small). You'll hardly hear any whooping and clunking – slot machines make up only 5% of total casino winnings (versus Vegas’ 60%). Drunks are also hard to come by, as Chinese players believe that booze dulls their skill. Over 80% of gamblers and 95% of high rollers come from mainland China. The latter play inside members-only rooms where the total amount wagered on any given day can exceed a small country’s GDP.

  For recreational players, the only thing to watch out for is harassment by tip hustlers – scam artists who hang around tables acting like your new best friend. They may steal your chips, nag you for a cut or try to take you to a casino that will tip them for bringing clients.

  Casinos are open 24 hours. To enter, you must be 21 years or older and neatly dressed.

  The Islands

  %853

  The islands of Taipa, Cotai and Coloane are more like one big island these days, thanks to land reclamation. Head to Taipa for dining and shopping in the narrow streets of old Taipa Village. Visit the new area of Cotai (created by infilling marsh between Taipa and Coloane, hence the name) to gamble and gawk at the biggest casinos on earth. Go south to Coloane for beachy getaways and long Portuguese lunches.

  Taipa was once two islands that were slowly joined together by silt from the Pearl River. A similar physical joining has happened to Taipa and Coloane because of land reclamation from the sea. The new strip of land joining the two islands is known as Cotai (from Co-loane and Tai-pa). Taipa has rapidly urbanised and it’s hard to imagine that just a few decades ago it was an island of duck farms and boat yards. Today the most interesting part of the area for visitors is the well-preserved streets around Taipa Village.

  A haven for pirates until the start of the 20th century, Coloane (路環), considerably larger than Taipa or Cotai, is the only pa
rt of Macau that doesn’t seem to be changing at a head-spinning rate. Today it retains Macau’s old way of life, though luxurious villas are finding their way onto the island. All buses stop at the roundabout in Coloane Village.

  The newest part of Macau has risen out of the marshland that once divided Taipa and Coloane, with a name (from Co-loane and Tai-pa) to reflect this joining. Today, Cotai is Macau's answer to the Vegas Strip, an ever-growing collection of megacasinos and entertainment complexes drawing tens of millions of tourists every year. Even if you hate gambling, the casinos are marvels of giant-scale planning and detail – a faux Venice! A one-third-scale Eiffel Tower! An indoor model of Lisbon's train station!

  The Islands – Taipa

  1Top Sights

  1Taipa VillageB1

  1Sights

  2Church of Our Lady of CarmelC1

  3Museum of Taipa & Coloane HistoryA2

  4Taipa Houses-MuseumD1

  5Eating

  5AntónioB2

  6Tai Lei LoiB1

  7Shopping

  7Cunha BazaarB1

  oTaipa VillageVILLAGE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; g22, 26, 33)

  The historical part of Taipa is best preserved in this village in the south of the district. An intricate warren of alleys hold traditional Chinese shops and some excellent restaurants, while the broader main roads are punctuated by colonial villas, churches and temples. Rua do Cunha, the main pedestrian drag, is lined with vendors hawking free samples of Macanese almond cookies and beef jerky, and tiny cafes selling egg tarts and serradura pudding. Avenida da Praia, a tree-lined esplanade with wrought-iron benches, is perfect for a leisurely stroll.