Lonely Planet China

by Lonely Planet

  Westin GuǎngzhōuHOTEL$$$

  (广州天誉威斯汀酒店; Guǎngzhōu Tiānyú Wēisītīng Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 2886 6868; www.starwoodhotels.com; 6 Linhe Zhonglu, 林和中路6号 d/ste from ¥1279/2155; mLine 3, Línhé Xī)

  The luxurious Westin is the best place to stay in Tiānhé, if not in Guǎngzhōu. Staff are very welcoming and efficient, rooms are spacious and sparkling, and the location, near the eastern train station, is terrific.

  MulianBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

  (广州木莲庄酒店; Guăngzhōu Mùliánzhuāng Jiŭdiàn GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8353 8888; www.themulian.com; 715 Jinsui Lu; 金穗路715号 s/d/ste ¥448/688/1088; aW; mLine 5, Táncūn, exit D)

  If you don't mind windowless rooms (which is 90% of the rooms here), the Mulian is perfect for a getaway – the soundproofing is seamless; the decor is exotically Thai; there are a host of gadgets to keep you entertained indoors; and there's free afternoon tea when you get hungry.

  Guǎngdōng Victory HotelHOTEL$$$

  (胜利宾馆; Shènglì Bīnguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8121 6688; www.vhotel.com; 53 & 54 Shamian Beijie; 沙面北街53 、54号 r from ¥928, tr ¥1280, ste ¥1380-3880; aiW; mLines 1 & 6, Huángshā)

  There are two branches of the Victory Hotel on Shāmiàn Island: an older one at 54 Shamian Beijie (enter from 10 Shamian Sijie) and a newer wing – 胜利宾馆 (新楼) – at 53 Shamian Nanjie. Both offer decent value for money, especially as discounts of up to a third are available.

  PRICE RANGES

  The following price ranges refer to a double room with bathroom.

  $ less than ¥250

  $$ ¥250–¥600

  $$$ more than ¥600

  The following price ranges refer to a main course.

  $ less than ¥70

  $$ ¥70–¥150

  $$$ more than ¥150

  5Eating

  Guǎngzhōu is home to some excellent Cantonese restaurants. Dim sum (点心; diǎnxīn), or yum cha (饮茶; yǐnchá; tea drinking), may be the best-known form of Cantonese cuisine to foreigners, but in fact noodles, congee and desserts are equally popular locally.

  oGuăngzhōu RestaurantDIM SUM$

  (广州酒家; Guăngzhōu Jiŭjiā MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2 Wenchang Nanlu; 文昌南路2号 dim dum per dish ¥9-25; h7am-11pm; mLine 1, Chángshòu Lù)

  Guăngzhōu's oldest restaurant is dedicated to serving well-made dim sum with an exquisite selection of teas (¥8 to ¥50 per person). Times may have moved on but this is the traditonal dim sum model. Tables and dining spaces are set around a beautiful interior garden in the atrium. Go early: by 8.30am all the tables with views are taken.

  Huìfú VegetarianVEGETARIAN$

  (惠福慈心素食; Huìfú Cíxīn Sùshí MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8323 4326; 449 Huifu Donglu; 惠福东路449号 buffet ¥25; h11am-2pm & 5-8.30pm; Wv; mLines 1 & 2, Gōngyuán Qián, exit D)

  Serve yourself a selection of extremely fresh vegetarian Cantonese dishes such as sweet-and-sour tofu, and red bean with lotus root. Sweet ginger and rice cake soups, and dumplings are also available. No menu or Chinese needed.

  Tiger PrawnVIETNAMESE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8319 1277; www.tigerprawngz.com; 548 Huifu Donglu; 惠福东路548号 mains ¥21-108; h11am-10pm; mLine 6, Běijīng Lù)

  The large queue (plan on 15 to 60 minutes) between 7pm and 9pm reflects how popular Vietnamese food has become in Guǎngzhōu. Tiger Prawn is the long-standing star for Southeast Asian food in the city, using the right herbs and spices in the pho (rice noodles in beef broth) and the lemongrass chicken. The Chinese and Thai dishes are also excellent. English and photo menu.

  Chén TiānjìCANTONESE$

  (陈添记 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8182 8774; 59 Baohua Lu, 宝华路59号 dishes ¥9-35; h9.30am-10.30pm; mLine 1, Chángshòu Lù, exit D2)

  This old hole-in-the-wall serves three things – crunchy blanched fish skin (鱼皮; yúpí) tossed with peanuts and parsley; sampan congee (艇仔粥; tǐngzǎi zhōu); and rice-flour rolls (肠粉; chángfěn). Turn right from the metro exit, then turn into an alley; it’s the second eatery.

  Big Buddha Temple VegetarianVEGETARIAN$

  (大佛寺素食阁; Dàfógǔsì Sùshí Gé MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Huifu Lu, main hall, 2nd fl, cnr Beijing Lu; mains ¥15-148; h11am-8.30pm; Wv; mLine 6, Běijīng Lù)

  On the 2nd floor of the main hall of the calm Big Buddha Temple, choose from an extensive menu of banquet-worthy vegetarian dishes in an elevated ancient-China-style restaurant. The focus is on mock meats to mimic traditional Cantonese dishes for catering to omnivore temple visitors. Photo and English menu.

  oPànxī RestaurantDIM SUM$$

  (泮溪酒家; Pànxī Jiǔjiā MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8172 1328; 151 Longjin Xilu, 龙津西路151号 dishes from ¥40; h7.30am-midnight; mLine 1, Chángshòu Lù)

  Set in a majestic garden and embracing another one within its walls, Pànxī is the most representative of Guǎngzhōu‘s garden-restaurants. Corridors and courtyards are brought together to give the effect of ‘every step, a vista’ (一步一景). Elderly diners are known to get up and sing an operatic aria or two when the mood is right. You'll need to queue for a table after 8.30am.

  Social&CoINTERNATIONAL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 3804 9243; www.socialandco.com; 7 Huacheng Lu; 华成路7号 mains ¥60-140; h11.30am-2am; v; mLine 5, Zhūjiāng New Town)

  The Australian owners of this casually cool cafe command some of the best international dishes in Guǎngzhōu. Highlights are banoffee pie, Portuguese-style chicken, pork belly with plum sauce and a drinks list that includes tea-infused cocktails (¥60). Lunch packages (salad, sandwich, soup; ¥50) are good value.

  Wilber’sEUROPEAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 3761 1101; www.wilber.com.cn; 62 Zhusigang Ermalu, 竹丝岗二马路72号 mains ¥68-280; h11am-4pm & 5-9pm; W; mLine 1, Dōngshān Kǒu)

  Hidden on the edge of Yuèxiù District, gay-friendly Wilber’s gets top marks for cocktails and atmosphere, and the food isn't far behind. You can munch on cold cuts and mini burgers at the sleek bar, or opt for seafood risotto and pan-fried scallops in a set menu (¥350) in the ultramodern restaurant. Look for the restored colonial villa with whitewashed walls and patio.

  Táng Lì YuánCANTONESE$$

  (唐荔园 GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8181 8002; Lìwān Lake Park; 口荔湾湖公园内5号 mains ¥22-200; h7.30am-3pm & 5pm-3am; mLine 1, Huángshā)

  This garden-restaurant, known for its roasted pigeon (金牌乳鸽; jīnpái rǔgē), is located inside Lìwān Lake Park (荔湾湖公园; Lìwān Hú Gōngyuán). A highlight are the tables on boats that you can reserve for dinner. They’re inspired by Zǐdòng Chuán (紫洞船), aka ‘drinking boats’ or ‘whore boats’, used in the Qing dynasty by Xīguān merchants to entertain with banquets, opera and women.

  Each boat seats six. There’s a cover charge and a ‘seat fee’ of ¥150 and ¥20, respectively, per person. The restaurant sits at the junction of Huangsha Dadao (黄沙大道) and Ruyi Fang (如意坊).

  Bǐngshèng RestaurantCANTONESE$$

  (炳胜海鲜酒家; Bǐngshèng Hǎixiān Jiǔjiā MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 3428 6910; 33 Dongxiao Lu; dishes from ¥48; h11am-midnight; g293, 886)

  This exquisite restaurant surprises with every visit, and the price is right! Shùndé (a town south of Guǎngzhōu) cuisine's freshwater fish is the speciality here. The dòufuhuā zhēngxiègāo (豆腐花蒸蟹羔; bean curd with crab roe) and hǎilú cìshēn (海鲈剌身; sea bass sashimi) are outstandingly tasty. No English menu.

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  Guǎngzhōu’s party hub is Zhūjiāng Pátí (珠江琶醍), a strip of land by the river that is the former site of the massive Zhūjiāng Brewery. Converted facilities now throb with trendy bars and clubs. With traces of the brewery still visible, it’s the city’s most surreal (and boozy) party place. Upmarket Yánjiāng Lù Bar Street is also worth a visit.

  oKuí YuánCAFE

  (逵园 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8765 9746; 9 Xuguyuan Lu; 恤孤院路9号 h10am-midnight; W
; mLine 1, Dōngshān Kŏu, exit F)

  From its location inside the gorgeous Kuí Yuán building in the historic Dōngshān area, this cafe serves decent coffee and canapés during the day and morphs into a bar at night. Stylish, warm-toned seating areas occupy the rooms of the original residence. Built in 1922, the house is famous for its Western architectural features that include colonnaded verandahs and a portico.

  Sun’sLOUNGE

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8977 9056; www.sunsgz.com; B25-26 Yuejiang Xilu; cover from ¥50; h7am-2am Sun-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat; g779, 765 (final stop))

  The best of the lot in Zhūjiāng 'Party Pier' (珠江琶醍), Sun’s lets you sip cocktails on couches by the river or dance to electronic music.

  Shāmiàn ClubhouseBAR

  (沙面会馆; Shāmiàn Huìguăn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Shamian Dajie, 沙面大街 h11am-11pm; W; mLines 1 & 6, Huángshā)

  The ‘Red Mansion’ (c 1907), once known as ‘Shāmiàn’s grandest mansion’, fuses features of British colonial architecture such as colonnades and louvre windows with the Lǐngnán fondness for skylights. It has a small, clubby bar with long teak flooring.

  3Entertainment

  o191 SpaceLIVE MUSIC

  (191Space 音乐主题酒吧; 191 Space Yīnlè Zhǔtí Jiǔba MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8737 9375; www.191space.com; 191 Guangzhou Dadao Zhonglu; 广州大道中路191号 h8pm-2am; mLine 5, Wŭyángcūn, exit A)

  Two steps from the metro exit, this is a throbbing dive that features live indie gigs from China and overseas every weekend.

  Fei Live HouseLIVE MUSIC

  (飞; Fēi Unit B4, 128 Yuancun Sihenglu, Redtory, 员村四横路128号 mLine 3, Yúncūn, exit B)

  A live-music space with an awesome sound system and a focus on indie music, inside Redtory art village (红砖厂, Hóngzhuān Chǎng %020 8557 8470; www.redtory.com.cn; 128 Yuancun Sihenglu, 员村四横路128號 h6am-midnight; mLine 3, Yuncun, exit B).

  Guǎngzhōu Opera HouseTHEATRE

  (广州大剧院; Guǎngzhōu Dàjùyuàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 3839 2888, 020 3839 2666; http://gzdjy.org; 1 Zhujiang Xilu, 珠江西路1号 h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun; mLine 3, Zhūjiāng Xīnchéng, exit B1)

  Guǎngdōng’s premier performance venue. Local versions of international theatre productions, such as War Horse, are staged here.

  7Shopping

  Xīguān Antique StreetANTIQUES

  (西关古玩城; Xīguān Gŭwánchéng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Lizhiwan Lu, 荔枝湾路 h9am-8pm; mLine 5, Zhōngshān Bā)

  This street sells everything from ceramic teapots to Tibetan rugs. Even if you’re not in the mood to load up your pack with ceramic vases, it’s a wonderful place in which to browse. Note that most artefacts here are known to be fakes.

  Shàngxiàjiǔ Pedestrian StreetCLOTHING

  (上下九步行街; Shàngxiàjiǔ Bùxíng Jiē MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-late; mLine 1, Chángshòu Lù or Huángshā)

  Literally 'Up Down Nine Street', this pedestrianised shopping area in one of the oldest parts of the city, where the buildings retain elements of both Western and Chinese architecture, is a good place to look for discounted clothing (and street food) and is very busy with other young shoppers.

  8Information

  Emergency

  Ambulance 120

  Fire 119

  Police 110

  Internet Access

  Most hotels provide free broadband internet access. Free wi-fi is available at all Guǎngdōng branches of Starbucks, Fairwood (大快活; Dàkuàihuó) and Cafe de Coral (大家乐; Dàjiālè), but some require a local phone number for access.

  Medical Services

  CanAm International Medical CentreHOSPITAL

  (加美国际医疗中心; Jiāměi Guójì Yīliáo Zhōngxīn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8386 6988; www.canamhealthcare.com; 5th fl, Garden Tower, Garden Hotel, 368 Huanshi Donglu; h24hr)

  Has English-speaking doctors 24 hours a day, but you’ll need to call ahead.

  Guǎngzhōu First Municipal People’s HospitalHOSPITAL

  (广州第一人民医院; Guǎngzhōu Dìyī Rénmín Yīyuàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8104 8888; www.gzhosp.cn; 1 Panfu Lu)

  Medical clinic for foreigners on the 1st floor.

  Money

  ATMs are available – most 24 hours – throughout Guǎngzhōu.

  American Express Guǎngzhōu (美国运通广州; Měiguó Yùntōng Guǎngzhōu MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8331 1611; fax 020 8331 1616; Room 1004, Main Tower, Guǎngdōng International Hotel, 339 Huanshi Donglu; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri) Cashes and sells Amex travellers cheques.

  Bank of China (中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8334 0998; 686 Renmin Beilu; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun) Most branches change travellers cheques.

  Post

  China PostPOST

  (中国邮政; Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; 151 Huanshi Xilu; h8am-8pm)

  Located next to the train station.

  Public Security Bureau

  PSBPOLICE

  (公安局; Gōng'ānjú GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8311 5800, 020 8311 5808; 155 Jiefang Nanlu; h8-11.30am & 2.30-5pm)

  Helps with all 'aliens' needs. Between Dade Lu and Darin Lu.

  Telephone

  China TelecomTELEPHONE

  (中国电信; Zhōngguó Diànxìn GOOGLE MAP ; %10000; 196 Huanshi Xilu; h9am-6pm)

  Its main branch is opposite the train station (eastern side of Renmin Beilu).

  Tourist Information

  Tourist Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.visitgz.com; 325 Zhongshan Liulu; h9am-6pm)

  There are 19 tourist information centres, including at 325 Zhongshan Liulu, the airport and the train station.

  Travel Agencies

  Most hotels offer travel services that, for a small charge, can help you book tickets and tours.

  China Travel Service (CTS; 中国旅行社; Zhōngguó Lǚxíngshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020 8333 6888; 8 Qiaoguang Lu; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun) Located next to Hotel Landmark Canton (华厦大酒店; Huáxià Dàjiǔdiàn).

  Useful Websites

  ADelta Bridges Guǎngzhōu (www.deltabridges.com/users/guangzhou) Listings of events around town.

  AGuǎngzhōu Stuff (www.gzstuff.com) Entertainment listings, forums and classifieds.

  ALife of Guǎngzhōu (www.lifeofguangzhou.com) Yellow Pages for visitors and expats.

  ALonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/china/guangdong/guangzhou) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

  Visas

  The 72-Hour Visa-Free Transit policy allows passport holders of many countries a stopover in Guǎngzhōu without arranging a visa before arrival.

  8Getting There & Away

  Air

  Báiyún International Airport (白云国际机场, CAN, Báiyún Guójì Jīchǎng GOOGLE MAP ; %020 3606 6999; www.gbiac.net) is about 28km north of the city.

  The major airline serving Guǎngzhōu, China Southern Airlines (中国南方航空; Zhōngguó Nánfāng Hángkōng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %95539; www.csair.com; 181 Huanshi Xilu; h24hr), has an office southeast of Guǎngzhōu Railway Station. The airline runs frequent flights to major cities in China including Guìlín, Shànghǎi and Běijīng, as well as numerous international destinations.

  Bus

  Guǎngzhōu has many long-distance bus stations with services to destinations in Guǎngdōng, southern Fújiàn, eastern Guǎngxī and further afield. There are frequent buses to Fóshān (¥21, 45 minutes), Kāipíng (¥58, two hours), Shēnzhèn (¥65, two hours) and Zhūhǎi (¥60, two hours) from Tiānhé bus station, Fāngcūn bus station (from metro Kēngkǒu), Guǎngzhōu East coach terminal and Guǎngdōng long-distance bus station.

  Other destinations:

  ACháozhōu ¥170 to ¥180, six hours, hourly from Tiānhé station

  AGuìlín ¥170, 10 hours, eight daily from Guǎngdōng long-distance bus station (8.30am to 11.30pm)

  AHǎikǒu ¥260 to ¥285, 12 hours, seven daily from Guǎngdōng long-distance bus station

 
; ANánníng ¥185, 10 hours, five daily from Guǎngdōng long-distance bus station

  AQīngyuǎn ¥30 to ¥40, 1½ hours, every half-hour from Tiānhé station

  AShàntóu ¥180 to ¥200, five hours, every 30 minutes from Tiānhé station

  ASháoguān ¥75 to ¥85, four hours, every 45 minutes from Guǎngdōng long-distance bus station

  AXiàmén ¥230, nine hours, every 45 minutes from Tiānhé station

  AZhàoqìng ¥35 to ¥50, 1½ hours, every 15 minutes from Tiānhé station

  Deluxe buses ply the Guǎngzhōu–Shēnzhèn freeway to Hong Kong, which is the easiest route to travel. Buses ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) (from ¥110, 3½ hours) to Hong Kong and its airport leave from Hotel Landmark Canton near Hǎizhū Square station or China Hotel near Yuèxiù Park station every 30 minutes.

  Buses through Zhūhǎi to Macau (¥80, every hour, 2½ hours) leave frequently from Tiānhé station (7.40am to 8pm).

  Tiānhé Bus Station (天河客运站; Tiānhé Kèyùnzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; %020 3709 0062; www.tianhebus.com; Yanling Lu; 燕玲路 mLines 3 & 6, Tiānhé Coach Terminal) Most frequent departures to destinations in Guǎngdōng; accessible by metro.

  Fāngcūn Bus Station (芳村客运站, Fāngcūn Kèyùnzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; %020 3708 5070; www.fangcunbus.com; Huadi Dadao, 华地大道 mLine 1, Kengkou) Accessible by metro (Kēngkǒu station).