Lonely Planet China
Page 124
XīNGLóNG’S COFFEE CULTURE
During the early 20th century, many Hainanese left for Southeast Asia in search of a higher standard of living. In the 1950s, when the new government offered them free farm land, some returned, settling in communities around Xīnglóng – and bringing coffee back with them. Downtown Xīnglóng, around the Xīnglóng Trade Union (兴隆工会; Xīnglóng Gōnghuì) bus stop, is full of cafes selling locally produced coffee (¥5) and Indonesian-style sweets. Lín Qīng Gé has won the local coffee competition several years running.
The bus from Wànníng train station to Xīnglóng will let you off just before a bridge; follow the road another 300m and the cafe will be on your right.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Hourly buses run from Sānyà to Xīnglóng (¥28, two hours).
Train
The nearest train station is in Wànníng (万宁), where hourly trains arrive from Hǎikǒu (¥49, 75 minutes), Qiónghǎi (¥19, 20 minutes) and Sānyà (¥41, 45 minutes). Direct buses (¥5, 40 minutes) to Xīnglóng Town meet the trains at the station.
Guǎngxī
Guilin
Around Guilin
Ziyuan
Longj Rice Terraces
Sanjiang
Yangshuo
Around Yangshuo
Liugong
Xingping
Huangyao
Nanning
Yangmei
Beihi
Weizhou Island
Huashan Cliff Murals
Pingxiang
Detian Waterfall
Tongling Grand Canyon
Leye
Guǎngxī
Pop 51 million
Why Go?
Guǎngxī (广西) conjures up visions of cycling and bamboo-rafting upon shimmering river waters beneath the sublime karst peaks of Yángshuò and hiking between ethnic villages in the lofty Lóngjǐ Rice Terraces. That's not all though: you can take selfies in front of the dramatic Dānxiá landscape (a type of landform) at Tiānmén Mountain and Bājiǎozhài National Geopark, and get sprayed by the mighty waterfall of Détiān or splashed by live seafood in Běihǎi's Vietnamese quarter.
What's more, you'll be contemplating the 2000-year-old Huāshān cliff murals from a boat and comparing the poetry of the Dòng villages at Chéngyáng to the beauty of Japan's Kyoto.
After you've had your fill of wonders above ground, you'll be plunging into the subterranean forests of Lèyè and soaking your feet in the underground streams of Tōnglíng Grand Canyon. Doing it all in reverse also makes sense, for Yángshuò is the perfect conclusion to any expedition.
When to Go
AMar The flowering rapeseed adds splashes of bright yellow to the fields around Yángshuò's stunning karst peaks.
AJun–Sep Rain turns rice terraces into mirrors and fatten waterfalls.
ASep & Oct The gulf breeze keeps things cool as you stroll around Wéizhōu Island.
Best Places to Eat
A Dàilóng Farmer Restaurant
A Luna
A Gānjiājiè Lemon Duck
A Āmóu Delicious Eats
A Kali Mirch
Best Places to Sleep
A Giggling Tree
A Secret Garden
A Backpacker Inn
A This Old Place Youth Hostel
Guǎngxī Highlights
1 Yángshuò Cycling past scenery straight out of a painting alongside the Yùlóng River.
2 Lóngjǐ Rice Terraces Trekking among stilt houses and fields that cascade down the slopes like giant stairs.
3 Sānjiāng Stopping by the Chéngyáng Wind and Rain Bridge, drum towers and cedar-wood homes of the artistic Dòng people.
4 Tōnglíng Grand Canyon Letting underground rivers, ancient caves and primeval forests whisper you their secrets.
5 Bājiǎozhài National Geopark Watching the drama of Dānxiá geology unfold before you.
6 Lèyè Geopark Being awestruck by the surreal nature of the geopark's massive sinkholes and their caverns.
7 Běihǎi Exploring the delightful old seaside quarter and taking a trip to the volcanic island of Wéizhōu.
History
In 214 BC a Qin dynasty army attempted to assimilate the Zhuang people, living in what is now called Guǎngxī, into their newly formed Chinese empire. But while the eastern and southern parts submitted, the western extremes remained largely controlled by hill-tribe chieftains.
Major tribal uprisings occurred in the 19th century, the most significant being the Taiping Rebellion (1850–64), which became one of the bloodiest civil wars in human history, resulting in 20 million deaths.
Communist bases were set up in Guǎngxī following the 1929 Bǎisè Uprising led by Deng Xiaoping, although they were eventually destroyed by Kuomintang forces. Much of Guǎngxī fell briefly under Japanese rule following highly destructive WWII invasions.
Today the Zhuang, China’s largest minority group, makes up 32% of Guǎngxī’s population, which led to the province being reconstituted in 1955 as the Guǎngxī Zhuang Autonomous Region. As well as Zhuang, Miao and Yao, Guǎngxī is home to significant numbers of Dong people.
Language
Travellers with a grasp of Mandarin (Pǔtōnghuà) will have few problems navigating Guǎngxī’s vast sea of languages. Cantonese (Guǎngdōnghuà), known as Báihuà in these parts, is the language of choice in Nánníng, Píngxiáng and Dàxīn, but most people also understand Mandarin. Visitors will also hear a number of minority languages being spoken, such as Zhuang, Dong and Yao.
8Getting There & Around
Airports at Guìlín and Nánníng run domestic flights of three hours or less to every major city, as well as international flights mainly to destinations in Southeast Asia, such as Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia and Singapore.
Long-distance buses are less convenient than high-speed rail for covering great distances to neighbouring and more distant provinces, but are very handy for accessing nearby towns in closer provinces.
A well-developed network of rail lines links together most of the province, making train the transport option of choice for most travellers.
High-speed rail, centred in Nánníng, connects Guǎngxī to provincial neighbours including Guǎngdōng, Guìzhōu, Húnán and Yúnnán and to the far-off metropolises of Běijīng and Shànghǎi, shrinking colossal distances and journey times.
Guìlín 桂林
%0773 / Pop 5,189,562
Guìlín (桂林) was China's first city to develop tourism after 1949. For decades, children's textbooks proclaimed 'Guìlín's landscape is the best under heaven' (桂林山水甲天下). It was the darling of Chinese politicians, the star city proudly presented to visiting dignitaries. Today Guìlín's natural endowments still amaze, yet, thanks to imperfect urban planning, there is a pervasive feeling that the city is past its prime.
No matter where you’re going in Guǎngxī, you're likely to spend a night or two here – Guìlín is a convenient base to plan trips to the rest of the province. It's clean and modern, with a high percentage of English-speaking locals, but you'll have to put up with touts and high admission fees to sights.
Guìlín
1Sights
1Róng LakeB1
2Shān LakeC2
3South GateB1
4Sun & Moon Twin PagodasC2
4Sleeping
5Ming Palace International YouthD1
6SheratonD2
7This Old Place HostelB1
8White HouseB1
5Eating
9Kali MirchD2
6Drinking & Nightlife
10Róng CoffeeB2
1Sights & Activities
Guìlín’s sights are built around scraggly karst peaks that dot the bustling city. Some, owing to exorbitant admission prices, can be skipped, especially if you are heading to Yángshuò. A ride down the magical Lí River (漓江; Lí Jiāng) and a stroll around tranquil Róng and Shān lakes offer pleasing, wallet-friendly alternatives.
South GateG
ATE, LAKE
(南门; Nán Mén MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Róng Hú; 榕湖 )
On the northern shore of Róng Lake, and strikingly illuminated at night, the South Gate (南门; Nán Mén) is the only surviving section of the original Song-dynasty city wall (城墙; chéng qiáng). The area is abuzz with activity and is a good place to watch locals practising taichi, calligraphy and dancing.
East GateHISTORIC SITE
(东镇门; Dōngzhèn Mén )
About 1km north of Folded Brocade Hill (叠彩山; Diécǎi Shān GOOGLE MAP ; ¥35; h7am-6pm) is the partly reconstructed East Gate, flanked by crumbling sections of the original wall. To reach the East Gate, take bus 1 or 2 and get off at the Dōngzhèn Lù stop, then turn right down the road of the same name. Alternatively, it’s a short walk or cycle north along the riverbank, just east of the entrance to Folded Brocade Hill.
Shān LakeLAKE
(杉湖; Shān Hú MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Literally 'Fir Lake', Shān Lake, together with its neighbour Róng Lake (榕湖; Róng Hú MAP GOOGLE MAP ), was once part of a city moat.
Sun & Moon Twin PagodasPAGODA
(日月双塔; Rìyuè Shuāng Tǎ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; admission ¥45; h8am-10.30pm)
Elegantly embellishing the scenery of Shān Lake, the Sun and Moon Twin Pagodas, beautifully illuminated at night, are the highlight of a stroll around Guìlín’s two central lakes. The octagonal, seven-storey Moon Pagoda (月塔; Yuè Tǎ) is connected by an underwater tunnel to the 41m-high Sun Pagoda (日塔; Rì Tǎ), one of the few pagodas with a lift.
Solitary Beauty PeakPARK
(独秀峰; Dúxiù Fēng GOOGLE MAP ; 1 Wangcheng; 王城1号 admission ¥130; h7.30am-6pm; g1, 2)
This park is a peaceful, leafy retreat from the city centre. The entrance fee for the famous lone pinnacle includes admission to an underwhelming 14th-century Ming prince’s mansion (oversold as a ‘palace’). The 152m peak affords fine views of Guìlín.
WORTH A TRIP
Lí RIVER TRIP
The popular Lí River trip from Guìlín to Yángshuò lasts about 4½ hours and includes a wonderfully scenic boat trip to Yángshuò, lunch and a bus ride back to Guìlín. Expect to pay ¥350 to ¥450 for a boat with an English-speaking guide. There’s also the Two Rivers Four Lakes (二江四湖; Èr Jiāng Sì Hú ) boat ride around Guìlín that does a loop of the Lí River and the city’s lakes. Prices vary from ¥150 to ¥340 for 90 minutes, depending on the time of day (it costs more at night). Pretty much every Guìlín hotel and tourist information service centre can arrange these two tours.
4Sleeping
Ming Palace International YouthHOSTEL$
(桂林王城青年旅舍; Guìlín Wángchéng Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0773 283 6888; mingpalace123@hotmail.com; 10 Donghua Lu; 东华路10号, 中华小学旁 dm ¥40-45, s ¥120, d ¥160-220, tr ¥210-240; naiW; g99, 100 from South Guìlín Bus Station)
Well-located a very short walk from the east gate of the Ming palace and next to Zhōnghuá Primary School (Zhōnghuá Xiǎoxué), this affordable option has spacious, clean and bright doubles and twins, many with wood trim; single rooms are small, but value for money, and mixed and female dorms are clean (but there's no lift). The lobby is a bit gloomy, but staff are sunny and helpful.
Disembark the bus at Lèqún Lùkǒu (乐群路口), turn right at the first crossing, walk on, passing two arches, and then you'll see the hostel. A taxi from the airport costs ¥130.
This Old Place HostelHOSTEL$
(老地方国际青年旅舍; Lǎodìfāng Gúojì Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0773 281 3598; www.topxingping.com; 2 Yiwu Lu; 翊武路2号 dm ¥35-40, d ¥100-120, tr ¥200-280; aiW)
This hostel doesn't have a huge amount of character but enjoys an enviable position facing Róng Lake and it's a 10-minute walk to the main eating and shopping areas. Three-bed dorms have single beds with en suite; regular rooms have a similar, though more spacious, arrangement. Pricier rooms face the lake.
White HouseBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(白公馆; Bái Gōngguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0773 899 9888; www.glbgg.com; Bldg 4, 16 Ronghu Beilu; 榕湖北路16号4栋 d ¥980-1380, ste ¥1980-3780; naiW)
The White House is decked out in all manner of period (some genuine, some perhaps not) trappings reflecting the building it's in – part of the former residence of General Bai Chongxi (白崇禧), a powerful regional Guǎngxī warlord and father of the Taiwanese writer Kenneth Pai Hsien-yung (白先勇). Spacious guestrooms are lavishly appointed, featuring, among other luxuries, a mini-spa and high-thread-count bedding.
SheratonHOTEL$$$
(喜来登酒店; Xǐláidēng Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0773 282 5588; 15 Binjiang Lu; 滨江路15号 d ¥528-640; s)
Guǎngxī's first five-star hotel, the Sheraton is a bit long in the tooth, but its central positioning right by the Lí River is excellent. It's now more of a four-star hotel in its decor, standards and room appearance, and the swimming pool is external, but service is efficient, you're at the heart of the Guìlín action and you get value for money.
PRICE RANGES
SLEEPING
The following price ranges refer to a double room with bathroom.
$ less than ¥150
$$ ¥150–¥400
$$$ more than ¥400
EATING
The following price ranges refer to a main course.
$ less than ¥40
$$ ¥40–¥100
$$$ more than ¥100
5Eating
Chóngshàn Rice Noodle ShopNOODLES$
(崇善米粉店; Chóngshàn Mǐfěn Diàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0773 282 6036; 5 Yiren Lu; 依仁路5号 noodles ¥3-5; h6.30am-midnight)
This very popular Guìlín noodle shop near junction with Zhengyang Lu has branches all over town. Order at the front, take your docket to the cook and retrieve your food from a window. The slippery rice noodles come with a variety of ingredients, but the Guìlín speciality (also the tastiest) is with stewed vegetables (卤菜粉; lǔcài fěn).
oKali MirchINDIAN$$
(黑胡椒印度餐厅; Hēi Hújiāo Yìndù Cāntīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 15 Binjiang Lu, Zhengyang Jie; 正阳步行街滨江路15号 mains from ¥30; W)
Tucked away behind the Sheraton, this fantastic restaurant is run by an affable and well-travelled man from Darjeeling, who speaks perfect English and ensures that every dish is true to form. The vegetable samosas, onion pakoras, butter chicken and lamb biryani are just a few excellent dishes from a tried-and-tested menu, with all spices imported from India.
Céngsān JiāwèiguǎnGUANGXI$$
(曾三家味馆 GOOGLE MAP ; %0773 286 3781; 10 Xinyi Lu, 信义路10号 dishes ¥20-158; h11am-2pm & 5-9pm)
A modern restaurant jam-packed with middle-class locals who come for the generously plated wild boar, rabbit and cured meat dishes. If you prefer tamer flavours, there are other great options in the phone book of a menu. For weekend dinner, go before 6.15pm to snag a table. There's a Chinese picture menu. It's near junction with Xicheng Lu.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Guìlín’s streets are dotted with trendy cafes; Zhengyang Lu has a short stretch of bars with outdoor seating, while Binjiang Lu alongside the river has a slew of cute drinking spots, most with free wi-fi.
Róng CoffeeCAFE
(榕咖啡; Róng Kāfēi MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Bldg 5, Rónghú Hotel, 16 Ronghu Beilu, 榕湖北路16号 coffee & tea from ¥15, cake ¥24-30; h1-11pm; W)
Looking like a greenhouse with colourful armchairs, this peaceful cafe by the picturesque Róng Lake offers a lovely getaway from the busy streets. It's even got a tiny garden with a couple of tables and a garden swing.
7Shopping
Guìlín Night MarketMARKET
(夜市; Yèshì GOOGLE MAP ; Zhongshan Zhonglu; 中山中路 hfrom 7pm)
For souvenirs, check out Guìlín’s night market, which runs along Zhongshan Zhonglu from Ronghu Beilu to Sanduo Lu.
Bird Flower MarketMARKET
(花鸟市场; Huāniǎo Shìchǎng GO
OGLE MAP ; h8am-5pm Sat & Sun; g51)
This local flea market has everything from electronics to vintage magazines, calligraphy brushes, dogs and, of course, birds and flowers.
8Information
Buy a map of Guìlín (桂林地图; Guìlín dìtú) from bookshops or kiosks (¥7).
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP )
Branches on Zhongshan Nanlu (near the main bus station) and Jiefang Donglu change money, give credit-card advances and have 24-hour ATMs.
Guìlín Tourist Information Service CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
(桂林旅游咨询服务中心; Guìlín Lǚyóu Zīxún Fúwù Zhōngxīn GOOGLE MAP ; %0773 280 0318; South Gate, Ronghu Beilu; 榕湖北路 h8am-10pm)
These helpful centres dot the city. There's a good one just west of the South Gate on Róng Lake.