Lonely Planet China
Page 128
8Getting There & Away
High-speed trains connect Xìngpíng with Guìlín, Nánníng, Guángzhōu and other destinations via Yángshuò train station in the nearby settlement of Fànzèng Shān (饭甑山):
AGuǎngzhōu 1st/2nd class ¥141/117, 2½ hours, five daily, 8.21am to 6.49pm
AGuìlín 1st/2nd class ¥25/21, 30 minutes, seven daily, 9.03am to 7.19pm
ANánníng 1st/2nd class ¥157/131, 3½ hours, one daily, 9.03am
Regular buses head from the train station to Yángshuò, via Xìngpíng (¥5, 10 minutes). The bus continues to Yángshuò (¥15, 40 minutes).
Huángyáo 黄姚
%0774 / Pop 62,000
Huángyáo (黄姚) is one of China’s most high-profile and picturesque villages, with many movies filmed here; The Painted Veil, starring Edward Norton, is possibly the most well known.
Bucolic charm permeates the lovingly preserved 900-year-old village, though Huángyáo struggles to cope with the influx of roving tour groups and housing them all. There's plenty on its eight streets to ensure the ¥100 entry fee is well spent, including two massive 500-year-old Chinese banyans that have wound their way up from the river’s edge.
One of the village's most standout historical buildings, Guōjiā Dàyuàn (郭家大院 44 An Dongjie; 安东街44号 ) is named after the Guo family that lived here.
4Sleeping & Eating
To maximise its bucolic charms, spending the night in Huángyáo is an excellent idea and there's no shortage of accommodation options, some very comfortable and generally inexpensive.
ChanceGUESTHOUSE$
(偶然间客栈; Ǒuránjiān Kèzhàn %0774 672 2046; 38 Zhongxing Jie; 中兴街38号 d ¥100-260; aW)
Scenically situated in an old brick building backing onto a hill, this place has a lovely traditional vibe, with a large choice of rooms and a bar.
oHeterotopias ClanBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(异托邦会馆; Yìtuōbāng Huìguǎn %181 7679 6519; heterotopias@126.com; 49 Anle Jie; 安乐街49号 r ¥250-350; naiW)
With its cultured, civilised air and eight elegant rooms, Heterotopias sits inside an old courtyard complex. The owners are intellectual types and the hotel's white walls and minimalist aesthetic showcase their literary collection and paintings by their artist friends to great effect. The wi-fi signal is not too good in some of the rooms.
Yuǎnfāngde JiāINN$$
(远方的家 %133 7703 6002, 0774 672 2792; Yfdj13377036002@163.com; 94 Liyu Jie; 鲤鱼街94号 r ¥158, ste ¥288-358; aW)
Two floors of small but adequate rooms connected by a creaky wooden staircase and run by friendly owners. It’s on a busy street just before you reach Dàilóng Bridge (带龙桥; Dàilóng Qiáo).
oDàilóng Farmer RestaurantGUANGXI$
(带龙桥龙家饭庄; Dàilóngqiáo Lóngjiā Fànzhuāng %131 0054 9638; Zhongxing Jie; 中兴街 mains ¥15-80; h11am-8pm)
Rarely does a famous eatery (it's been featured countless times by the media) uphold its culinary excellence, and its boss, his modesty, so well. But that's precisely why patrons keep returning to feast on steamed spare ribs (豆豉蒸排骨; dòuchǐ zhēng páigǔ), stuffed tofu (豆腐釀; dòufu niàng) and other deliciousness on the river bank. The massively polite Mr Liang speaks English too. It's at the start of Dàilóng Bridge.
8Getting There & Away
Two direct buses run daily from Guìlín (¥72, three hours, 9am and 1.30pm). The return buses from Huángyáo usually leave at 2pm and 8pm, though the service is erratic, meaning you may have to take a bus to Hèzhōu (贺州; ¥18, two hours) and change to a Guìlín service (¥62 to ¥80, 2½ to four hours). The last bus from Hèzhōu is at 5.10pm. You could also take a fast D-class train (1st/2nd class ¥69/57) from Hèzhōu to Guìlín. Joining a local tour from Yángshuò (arriving at 11am and departing at 4.30pm) costs around ¥198.
Nánníng 南宁
%0771 / Pop 7.1 million
In many ways, Nánníng (南宁) is a typical provincial capital with few sights of note, but many of its streets are lined with trees and shaded with a bountiful canopy of leaves, affording welcome shade. It’s also a relaxing and friendly place to recharge your batteries before leaving for, or returning from, Vietnam. Nánníng's new metro system is helping to tame the town's distances.
Nánníng
4Sleeping
1Green Forest HostelA3
2Wànxīng HotelB2
8Information
3China International Travel ServiceA1
Transport
4Civil Aviation Administration of ChinaA1
Vienna HotelA1
1Sights
Guǎngxī MuseumMUSEUM
(广西博物馆; Guǎngxī Bówùguǎn GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Minzu Dadao & Gucheng Lu; 民族大道古城路的路口 h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun; mMinzu Guangchang)F
This fairly interesting but very dated museum showcases Qing ceramics, art and calligraphy with Guǎngxī characteristics, and the customs of ethnic minorities. The collection of ancient copper drums is one of China's best. On the ground floor, the traditional handicrafts shop (广西传统工艺展示馆) has great souvenirs. The garden out back is a welcome highlight, with a reproduction Wind and Rain Bridge, where you can also dine.
4Sleeping
Green Forest HostelHOSTEL$
(瓦舍; Wǎshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0771 281 3977; greenforest_nanning@yahoo.com; 3rd fl, 3 Jiefang Lu; 解放路3号3楼, 近民生步行街 dm ¥50-60, d ¥138; naiW; mChaoyang Guangchang or Xinmin Lu)
Located in an old and slightly distressed property, this hostel is located above a kindergarten (hence the paintings on the walls as you go up). Rooms are OK, but corridors are a bit musty and some rooms a tad damp. Get off the bus at Cháoyáng Sq (朝阳广场; Cháoyáng Guǎngchǎng), walk on for 10m, and you'll see the pedestrianised Minsheng Buxingjie.
Wànxīng HotelHOTEL$$$
(万兴酒店; Wànxīng Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0771 238 1000; www.nnwxhotel.com; unit 1, 42 Beining Jie; 北宁街42-1号 d ¥438-788, tr/ste ¥888/1688; aiW)
One of those seemingly characterless urban hotels that actually turn out to be very good. There's an uncluttered, marble-clad foyer overseen by very helpful staff, and rooms are comfortable, if unsurprising. Efficient and value for money; on the corner with Gonghe Lu.
5Eating & Drinking
Muslim HotelCHINESE$
(清真饭店; Qīngzhēn Fàndiàn GOOGLE MAP ; %135 5848 3838; 25 Xinhua Lu; 新华路25号 noodles from ¥6.50, mains ¥30-80,; h6.30am-8pm; mChaoyang Guangchang)
If you want to sample some flavours from the other side of China, this Muslim eatery inside a green building serves cheap, generous and hearty noodles on the ground floor, and northwestern Chinese fare on the 1st floor.
oGānjiājiè Lemon DuckGUANGXI$$
(甘家界牌柠檬鸭; Gānjiājiè Pái Níngméngyā %0771 585 5585; www.ganjiajie.com; 12-2 Yuanhu Lu; 园湖路12-2号 mains ¥30-70; h10am-9.30pm; mMacun)
One of eight branches in town, the star here is the flavourful lemon duck (柠檬鸭; níngméngyā), a Nánníng dish that cooks the fowl with pickled lemon peel, ginger, garlic and chilli. You'd be quackers not to try it. Choose from two types of duck: we recommend the more tender cherry duck (樱桃谷鸭; yīngtáo gǔyā).
oĀmóu Delicious EatsGUANGXI$$
(阿谋美食; Āmóu Měishí GOOGLE MAP ; Gucheng Lu; 古城路 mains from ¥25; h11am-9pm; a; mMinzu Guangchang)
Unique and flavourful ethnic dishes served on a photogenic wind-and-rain bridge or in a dining room, both within the lovely garden of the Guǎngxī Museum. There's a huge range of ethnic food, from fried pork belly dipped in rice wine (么佬族乳香肉饼甜酒; melǎozú rǔxiāng ròubǐng tiánjiǔ) to fragrant máonán beef (毛南香牛扣; máonán xiāngníukòu). There's a photo menu.
oQueen's HeadBAR
(22 Jiangbei Dadao; 江北大道22号 h7pm-2am)
With cider on tap (¥40), good cocktails, a London tube map on the wall, and posters of Big Ben, the London Eye and Union Jacks,
this anglophone pub has a decent range of imported beers and a fun, likeable atmosphere. There's a big screen and a pool table. It's a cut above the other very samey competition along this (never-ending) road.
8Information
The useful Street Map of Nanning (南宁街道图; Nánníng Jiēdào Tú; ¥5), in English and Chinese, can be found at bookshops and kiosks around town.
Nánníng International Tourism Distribution CentreBUS STATION
(南宁国际旅游集散中心; Nánníng Guójì Lǚyóu Jísàn Zhōngxīn GOOGLE MAP ; %0771 210 2362; 10 You'ai Nanlu; 友爱南路10号 h7.30am-8.30pm; mHuochezhan)
A large distribution centre of travel information for domestic and international travellers.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; Chaoyang Lu; 朝阳路 h9am-5pm Mon-Fri; mChaoyang Guangchang)
Changes travellers cheques and gives credit-card advances. Other Bank of China branches around town have 24-hour ATMs that accept international cards.
China International Travel ServiceTRAVEL AGENCY
(CITS; 中国国际旅行社; Zhōngguó Guójì Lǚxíngshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0771 222 0000; www.cits.net; 72 Chaoyang Lu; 朝阳路72号 h8am-11pm; mChaoyang Guangchang or Huochezhan)
Has some English-speaking staff and issues one-month Vietnam visas (¥420).
Public Security BureauPOLICE
(PSB; 公安局; Gōng’ānjú %0771 289 1260; 10 Xiuling Lu Xierli; 秀灵路西二里10号 h9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri)
Located 2km north of the train station, off Xiuling Lu (秀灵路).
8Getting There & Away
Air
Direct daily flights from Nánníng Wúxū International Airport include Běijīng (¥1500), Shànghǎi (¥1700), Xī’ān (¥1800), Kūnmíng (¥900), Guǎngzhōu (¥730) and Hong Kong (¥1440). You can also fly to a number of other destinations in Asia, including Hanoi (¥1800).
Book air tickets through www.english.ctrip.com or www.elong.net.
Bus
The main Lángdōng Long-Distance Bus Station (琅东客运站; Lángdōng Kèyùnzhàn %0771 550 8333; east end of Minzu Dadao; 民族大道东端 g6, 25, 42, 76, 90, 98, 206, 603, 701, 704, mLangdong Keyunzhan), 5km east of the city centre (linked on Line 1 of the new Nánníng metro), has high-speed, direct buses to pretty much everywhere, although you may be dropped at one of the other bus stations, also on the outskirts, when arriving. There’s a downtown ticketing office on Chaoyang Lu near CAAC (CAAC; 中国民航; Zhōngguó Mínháng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0771 243 1459; 82 Chaoyang Lu; 朝阳路82号 h24hr). Destinations from Lángdōng Long-Distance Bus Station include:
ABěihǎi ¥70, three hours, every 10 to 20 minutes (7.30am to 9.30pm)
AGuǎngzhōu ¥140 to ¥210, nine hours, regular (8am to 11pm)
AGuìlín ¥90 to ¥125, 4½ hours, every 15 to 30 minutes (8.20am to 10.45pm)
APíngxiáng ¥78 to ¥80, 2½ hours, regular (7.30am to 8.30pm)
AYángshùo ¥100 to ¥120, 3½ hours, three daily (10.10am, 3.40pm and 4.20pm)
There is one direct bus daily from Lángdōng Long-Distance Bus Station to Détiān Waterfall (Détiān Pùbù; ¥75, 3½ hours, 8.30am). Other daily routes include Chóngqìng, Chéngdū, Hǎinán Dǎo, Shànghǎi and Hong Kong (Xiānggǎng).
Buses for Yángměi leave from the Nánníngshì Huóyùn Xīzhàn (南宁市货运西站), just south of the corner of Daxue Lu and Luban Lu. Buses 4, 10, 24, 33, 34, 35 and 46 all pass by.
BORDER CROSSING: GETTING TO VIETNAM FROM NáNNíNG
Six daily buses run to Hanoi (河内; Hénèi, Vietnam; ¥160, 7½ to eight hours) via Friendship Pass (友谊关; Yǒuyì Guān). Two departures (8am and 8.20am) leave from Nánníng International Tourism Distribution Centre, and four (8.40am, 9am, 10am and 1.40pm) leave from Lángdōng Long-Distance Bus Station.
Note that you'll have to get off and walk across the border at Friendship Pass before boarding another bus to Hanoi. There’s also a daily train from Nánníng train station to Hanoi (soft sleeper ¥300,10½ hours, 6.10pm). There are also four trains and regular buses daily to Píngxiáng.
Local hostels will help organise visas (for free – you pay for the visa only).
Train
Nánníng has two train stations: the main train station at the centre of town and Nánníng East train station, where many high-speed trains stop and depart from.
Some daily services:
ABěihǎi ¥58 to ¥70, 90 minutes, regular, 6.45am to 9.05pm
ABěijīng West G-class train, 2nd/1st class ¥914/1380, 13 hours, two daily, 8am and 9.20am
AChéngdū ¥198, 27 hours, one daily (9.40pm)
AChóngqìng ¥164, 21½ hours, one daily (9.40am)
AGuǎngzhōu South 1st/2nd class ¥203/169, four hours, three daily (8am, 11.50am and 6pm)
AGuìlín ¥60 to ¥1180, 4½ to 6½ hours, over 20 daily
AHanoi soft sleeper ¥300, 10½ hours, one daily, 6.10pm
AShànghǎi G-class train 1st/2nd class ¥1179/768, 12 hours, one daily, 9.05am
AXī’ān ¥224, 30 hours, two daily (11.40am and 8.35pm)
Four daily trains go to Píngxiáng (¥30 to ¥33, four to six hours, 9.10am, 2.09pm, 2.50pm and 6.10pm) near the Vietnam border. Each one stops at Chóngzuǒ (¥18 to ¥20, two to three hours) and Níngmíng (¥26, 2½ to five hours), but only the slow one stops at Píngxiáng’s north train station.
Booth 16 in the train station sells international tickets to Hanoi.
8Getting Around
The airport shuttle bus (¥20, 40 minutes, 5.30am to 10.30pm) leaves every 30 minutes from outside the Vienna Hotel (维也纳酒店; Wéiyěnà Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 76 Chaoyang Lu; 朝阳路76号 mChaoyang Guangchang or Huochezhan). Bus 301 (¥3) also runs to the airport from Chaoyang Guangchang (朝阳广场). A taxi to the airport is about ¥120.
Line 1 of the Nánníng metro links the train station with Lángdōng Long-Distance Bus Station in the east and Nánníng East train station. Two further lines are under construction.
Buses 6 and 213 run the length of Chaoyang Lu and Minzu Dadao until around 11pm (¥2 per ride). A taxi ride from Lángdōng bus station to downtown is around ¥40. Taxis start at ¥7 and short pedicab rides cost ¥5.
Yángměi 扬美
YángměiVILLAGE
(扬美 ¥10)
A former market town on the Yōng River (邕江; Yōng Jiāng), Yángměi was founded a millennium ago and flourished in the 17th century, earning the nickname 'Little Nánníng'.
Spend a couple of hours wandering the cobbled streets, munching on fried fish (from ¥2), steamed rice rolls (¥4) and local starfruit (¥5 a catty) as you walk. The pace is slow and you’re free to peep into the musty Ming and Qing dynasty homes.
Most of Yángměi's early inhabitants were migrants from Shāndōng, with a small percentage from Guǎngdōng. Hybridity is reflected in its buildings, which feature both the sturdy solemnity of Shāndōng vernacular architecture, and the penchant for embellishment of the softer southern style.
Buses for Yángměi leave from West Bus Station (南宁市货运西站; Nánníngshì Huóyùn Xīzhàn) near the corner of Daxue Lu (大学路) and Luban Lu (鲁班路) in the northeast of town. Take bus 604 from Minsheng Guangchang (民生广场); buses 4, 10, 24, 33, 34, 35 and 46 also pass by. Departures and returns are from 8.40am to 6pm (¥17, two hours, every 50 minutes). The last bus back from Yángměi leaves at 4pm, but gets packed so arrive early for a seat.
Běihǎi 北海
%0779 / Pop 1.5 million
Běihǎi (北海; literally ‘North Sea’) – called baakhoi in the local baíhuà dialect – is famed among Chinese tourists for its Silver Beach, dubbed ‘number one beach on earth’ in tourism brochures (it ain't). A far more charming and unique selling point, however, is the lovely and crumbling Old Quarter, a delightful vignette of colonnaded streets and colonial-era architecture. It's lovely in the right light, and with a fine cafe and hotel, the old town is the place to settle down for a day or two to ease into Běihǎi's lazy seas
ide rhythms. The volcanic island of Wéizhōu is a further draw, just 70 minutes away by boat.
Běihǎi
1Sights
1Former British Consulate BuildingC2
4Sleeping
2Backpacker InnA1
5Eating
3Aunty Li's Shrimp PancakesA1
4Old Town Coffee, Bar & RestaurantA1
1Sights
Běihǎi's old streets (老街; lǎojiē) usually refer to Zhongshan Lu (中山路) and Zhuhai Lu (珠海路), once part of old Běihǎi's trading hub, which are now home to sleepy residences of the city’s older population. Built a century ago, the streets spread from west to east and are flanked by recently restored 19th-century qílóu buildings (arcade houses) housing an alarming number of pearl shops.
Start your stroll at the western end of Zhuhai Lu. Look for the small white arch inscribed with the Chinese characters 升平街 (Shengping Jie), the road’s former name. This street has been paved over and offers visitors an atmospheric walk.
Former British Consulate BuildingHISTORIC BUILDING
(英国领事馆旧址; Yīngguó Lǐngshìguǎn Jiùzhǐ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Beihai No 1 Middle School, 1 Beijing Lu; 北京路1号 )
Běihǎi's first consulate of a Western country is a whitewashed edifice built in 1885 that now sits inside the grounds of the Beihai No 1 Middle School. The building faces you as you stand in front of the school; the guard will let you in for a peek if you're nice.