Lonely Planet China

by Lonely Planet

  8Getting Around

  From Dàlǐ, a taxi to Xiàguān airport takes 45 minutes and costs around ¥100; to Xiàguān’s train station it costs ¥50.

  Bikes are the best way to get around and can be hired at numerous places from ¥25 to ¥40 per day. Try Dàlǐ Bicycle Club (大理自行车俱乐部; Dàlǐ Zìxíngchē Jùlèbù GOOGLE MAP ; 41 Boai Lu; h7.30am-8pm), which rents bikes and scooters.

  Buses (¥2, 30 minutes, marked 大理) run between the old town and Xiàguān from as early as 6.30am; wait along the highway and flag one down. Bus 8 runs between Dàlǐ and central Xiàguān (¥2, 30 minutes), close to the express bus station and the Xīngshèng bus station. Bus 4 also travels between Dàlǐ and central Xiàguān (¥2, 30 minutes). There is also an unmarked bus that runs past the west gate to and from the train station every 15 minutes from 6.30am (¥2, 30 minutes).

  Ěrhǎi Lake 洱海湖

  Ěrhǎi Lake (洱海湖; Ěrhǎi Hú; 'Ear-Shaped' Lake) dominates the local psyche. The seventh-biggest freshwater lake in China, it sits at 1973m above sea level and covers 250 sq km; it’s also dotted with villages to visit and surrounded by trails perfect for bike rides.

  1Sights

  Cáicūn (才村), a pleasant little village east of Dàlǐ (¥1.50 on bus 2), is the nexus of lake transport. All boat travel is on ‘official’ vessels. Expect to pay ¥180 for a three-hour trip, although you can normally haggle that down to ¥120 in low season.

  If you want to head to the east side of the lake, bargain for a boat to take you to Tiānjìng Gé (天镜阁), from where you can pick up a bus to Wāsè or Shuāngláng. You should pay no more than ¥100.

  On the east side of the lake, the beautiful waterside town of Shuāngláng (双廊) is extremely popular with domestic tourists. The town is a labyrinth of winding old alleys and traditional homes sitting on a little peninsula that juts into the lake.

  The other east-side highlight, close to Wāsè, is Pǔtuó Dǎo (普陀岛; Pǔtuó Island) and Lesser Pǔtuó Temple (小普陀寺; Xiǎopǔtuó Sì Pǔtuó Island; 普陀岛 ), set on an extremely photogenic rocky outcrop.

  Nánzhào Customs IslandISLAND

  (南诏风情岛; Nánzhào Fēngqíng Dǎo )

  This pleasant island has gardens, parks, a 17.5m-tall marble statue of Avalokiteshvara (Chenresig; aka Guanyin) and a hotel. Boats to the island cost ¥50, the price includes admission.

  2Activities

  Roads encircle the lake so it is possible to do a loop (or partial loop) of the lake by mountain bike. A bike path goes from Cáicūn to Tǎo Yuán Port, which makes a great day trip (but most travellers turn around at Xīzhōu; 喜洲). Some hard-core cyclists continue right around the lake (the full loop is around 98km). The lack of boats means you’re looking at an overnight stay or an extremely long ride in one day.

  4Sleeping

  There are several guesthouses, as well as upmarket boutique hotels, in Cáicūn and Shuāngláng.

  Sky & Sea LodgeGUESTHOUSE$

  (海地生活; Haǐdì Shēnghuó %0872 246 1762; www.skysealodge.org; dm ¥40, d ¥120-1000; W)

  Even the dorm at this peaceful lakeside hotel in Shuāngláng has decent views of Ěrhǎi Lake. Private rooms range from the functional to the swish, and most have balconies overlooking the lake. Friendly staff. You can’t take a taxi there so you’ll have to walk about 10 to 15 minutes through the village, ask locals to point the way.

  NeverlandHOSTEL$

  (牛背山国际青年旅舍; Niúbèishān Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě %0872 269 1677; Caicun Port; 才村码头 dm ¥35, d ¥108-228; aW)

  On the street leading to the boat dock, close to where the bus drops you off, this hostel caters mostly to Chinese travellers, but is friendly, and the light-filled, spacious rooms are decent value. There's a communal area and it offers Western and Chinese dishes.

  8Getting There & Away

  Bus 2 runs from Dàlǐ to Cáicūn, (¥1.50, 15 minutes), where you can pick up boats around Ěrhǎi Lake. Alternatively, head to Xiàguān's east bus station, where you can find regular buses to Shuāngláng and Wāsè and other destinations on the east side of the lake.

  Cāng Shān 苍山

  The range of gorgeous peaks known as Cāng Shān (苍山) rises imposingly above Dàlǐ and offers the best legwork in the area. Most travellers head first for Zhōnghé Temple (中和寺; Zhōnghé Sì ), on the side of Zhōnghé Shān (中和山; Zhōnghé Mountain ¥40; h8am-6pm). At the temple, be careful of imposter monks passing out incense and then demanding ¥200 for a blessing.

  1Sights & Activities

  You can hike up the mountain, a sweaty two to three hours for those in moderately good shape (but note the warning that there have been several reports of robbery of solo walkers). Keep your eyes peeled for the elusive red panda, a number of which have been spotted here recently. Walk about 200m north of the chairlift (苍山索道; Cāng Shān Suǒdào ¥60 return) base to the riverbed. Follow the left bank for about 50m and walk through the cemetery, then follow the path zigzagging under the chairlift. When you reach some stone steps, you know you are near the top. This is but one of several paths to the temple.

  Branching out from either side of Zhōnghé Temple is a trail that winds along the face of the mountains, taking you in and out of steep, lush valleys and past streams and waterfalls. From the temple, it’s a nice 11km walk south to Gǎntōng Temple (感通寺; Gǎntōng Sì ), Qīngbì Stream (清碧溪; Qīngbì Xī ) and/or Guānyīn Temple (观音堂; Guānyīn Táng ), from where you can continue to the road and pick up a Dàlǐ-bound bus. The path, called Jade Belt Road (玉带路; Yùdài Lù), is paved and easily walkable.

  There’s also a cable car (感通寺索道; Gǎntōng Sì Suǒdào one way/return ¥50/80) between Qīngbì Stream and Gǎntōng Temple.

  Alternatively, take the new cable car (洗马潭索道; Xǐmǎ Tán Suǒdào return ¥280) up to the Horse Washing Pond (洗马潭; Xǐ Mǎ Tán ), high in the mountain range, where Kublai Khan set up his base in the late 13th century. If you buy your ticket from your hostel, or online, you should get ¥50 off the price.

  4Sleeping

  Higherland InnINN

  (高地旅馆; Gāodì Lǚguǎn %0872 266 1599; www.higherlandinn.com; dm ¥30, d ¥80-120)

  Simple rooms, all with shared bathroom, high up in the Cāng Shān. There's also an artists studio here.

  8Information

  On hikes around Cāng Shān there have been several reports of robbery of solo walkers. As ever, watch your bags and possessions when on buses and trains.

  8Getting There & Away

  The starting point for Cāng Shān treks is walking distance from Dàlǐ.

  Xǐzhōu 喜洲

  %0872 / Pop 2,500

  A trip to the old town of Xǐzhōu (喜洲) for a look at its well-preserved Bai architecture is lovely, and some travellers now make it their base for exploring the area around Dàlǐ.

  4Sleeping & Eating

  You can find beds for as little as ¥80, although you're just a 30 minute bus ride from Dàlǐ. The interesting town of Zhōuchéng (州城), 7km north of Xǐzhōu, also has basic accommodation.

  Linden CentreHOTEL$$$

  (喜林苑; Xǐ Lín Yuàn %0872 245 2988; www.linden-centre.com; 5 Chengbei; d/ste incl breakfast ¥980/1480; iW)

  Traditional home turned into a very smart boutique hotel with 16 rooms. All are set around a courtyard, have balconies and come with antique furniture but modern bathrooms.

  8Getting There & Away

  You can catch a local bus (¥7) from the west gate in Dàlǐ, but a bicycle trip is also a good idea – although it's a long ride there and back.

  Nuòdèng 诺邓

  %0872 / Pop 1200

  This anachronistic hamlet, oft-lauded as the ‘thousand-year-old’ village, has one of the highest concentrations of Bai in Yúnnán and some of the best preserved buildings in the entire province. Nuòdèng (诺邓) has managed to maintain traditional village life, with ponies and donkeys clomping up the steep flagstone streets past traditional mud
brick buildings with ornate gates, many of which date back to the Ming and Qing dynasties. It's a little busier than it was, but Nuòdèng is still very peaceful and a delightful place to kick back for a while.

  1Sights

  After crossing the bridge at the bottom of the village you’ll see one of the original salt wells, located inside a wooden shed. The town is built upon a steep hill and winding up through the alleys you’ll reach an impressive Confucian Temple (孔庙; Kǒngmiào), which today serves as the village primary school (check out the detailed frescos still visible on the ceiling). Further uphill is the picturesque 16th-century Yuhuang Pavillion (玉皇阁; Yùhuáng Gé).

  Village life is centred on the small market square; a good place to catch some sun and gab with the local elders.

  On the way to Nuòdèng village from Yúnlóng, the Bi River is forced by the surrounding hills into a serpentine roll that from above looks remarkably like a yin-yang symbol (Tàijítú; 太极图). You won’t notice this natural phenomenon from ground level; you need to go up to a viewing platform on the nearby hill. The road to the pavilion is 7km of endless switchbacks, a tedious and tiring hike, or you could hire a rickshaw to take you there and back for ¥60 to ¥80.

  4Sleeping

  There are a few guesthouses in the village, but locals also advertise beds in their houses for as little as ¥30.

  Fùjiǎ LiúfāngyuànINN$

  (复甲留方苑 %0872 572 3466; 502609@qq.com; dm ¥35, d ¥78-288; W)

  Big rooms and sit-down toilets at this friendly, family-run guesthouse set around a lush garden of bougainvillea. The new annexe offers very comfortable rooms and a terrace that overlooks the village and is perfect for stargazing. It's right at the top of the village; call ahead and they'll come and meet you.

  Luwo International Youth HostelHOSTEL$

  (驴窝驿国际青年旅舍; Lǘwōyì Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě %137 2507 3636; 674766748@qq.com; dm ¥35, d with/without bathroom ¥128/78; W)

  This hostel at the top of the village – follow the signs – has sizeable rooms set around a large courtyard. Thin mattresses but everything is clean, there's a separate bar area and the staff speak some English.

  5Eating

  oYán Quán NóngjiāYUNNAN$$

  (盐泉农家 %0872 552 5111; dishes from ¥20; h11am-8pm)

  The one genuine restaurant in the village is also one of the most famous in Yúnnán, after being featured on the hit Chinese TV show A Bite of China. People come from far and wide to sample huǒtuǐ (火腿; ¥40), a slightly salty cured ham that is the local speciality. And it tastes great, as do the all-natural veggies and tofu.

  It's at the base of the village over a little bridge.

  8Getting There & Away

  Buses (¥39, three hours, every 40 minutes from 7.50am to 4.30pm) leave from Xiàguān’s express bus station to the sleepy county seat Yúnlóng (云龙), from where you can take a three-wheel rickshaw or minivan (¥30) the final 7km to Nuòdèng. Buses back to Xiàguān leave on a similar schedule; the final departure is at 4.30pm. At the time of writing there were no buses running to Lánpíng (兰坪), but if they start again you can change at Lánpíng for buses to Liùkù. There are also two daily buses to Kūnmíng (¥175 to ¥189; seven to eight hours, 9am and 10.30am).

  Shāxī 沙溪

  %0872

  The tiny hamlet of Shāxī (沙溪), 120km northwest of Dàlǐ, is an evocative throwback to the days of the Tea Horse Road. (You can almost hear the clippety-clop of horses’ hooves and shouts of traders.) It is one of only three surviving caravan oases that stretched from Yúnnán to India and is by far the best preserved – and the only one with a functioning market (Friday), when Bai and Yi villagers converge on the town. If you're here then, check out the animal trading down by the river.

  The village’s wooden houses, courtyards and narrow, winding streets make it a popular location for period Chinese movies and TV shows, and there are ever-increasing numbers of domestic day trippers. However, this is still a wonderfully relaxed place where you can spend the night sitting by the river under a canopy of stars and listening to the frogs croaking in the rice paddies.

  1Sights

  Sideng Jie (寺登街) is the ancient town street leading off the main road. It’s about 300m downhill to the multifrescoed Xìngjiào Sì (兴教寺; Xìngjiào Temple Shiji Guangchang, 市集广场 ¥20; h9am-5pm), the only Ming dynasty Bai Buddhist temple. On the opposite side of the courtyard is the Three Terraced Pavilion (魁星阁; Kuíxīnggé Shiji Guangchang, 市集广场 ¥20; h9am-5pm), which has a prominent theatrical stage (古戏台; gǔxìtái), something of a rarity in rural Yúnnán. There is a small museum here, ask the guard at the temple for the key. The absolute highlight, however, is the Ōuyáng Courtyard (欧阳大院; Ōuyáng Dàyuàn off Sideng Jie; 寺登街 ), a superb example of three-in-one Bai folk architecture in which one wall protected three yards/residences. Sadly, most of it is currently closed to the public, although you can poke your head inside for a quick look.

  Exit the east gate and head south along the Huì River (惠江; Huì Jiāng) for five minutes, cross the ancient Yùjīn Qiáo (玉津桥; Yùjīn Bridge), and you’re walking the same trail as the horse caravans. If you look hard enough, you’ll still be able to see hoofprints etched into the rock, or so the locals claim. Ponies can be rented for ¥40 an hour by the river, if you want to ride part of the trail yourself.

  Otherwise, the main activity around town is walking. The guesthouses in town have maps that can get you started and keep you busy for days.

  THE TEA HORSE ROAD

  Less well-known than the Silk Road, but equally important in terms of trade and the movement of ideas, people and religions, the Tea Horse Road (茶马古道; Chámǎgǔdào) linked southwest China with India via Tibet. A series of caravan routes, rather than a single road, which also went through parts of Sìchuān, Myanmar (Burma), Laos and Nepal, the trails started deep in the jungle of Xīshuāngbǎnnà. They then headed north through Dàlǐ and Lìjiāng and into the thin air of the Himalayan mountains on the way to the Tibetan capital Lhasa, before turning south to India and Myanmar.

  Although archaeological finds indicate that stretches of the different routes were in use thousands of years ago, the road really began life in the Tang dynasty (AD 618–907). An increased appetite for tea in Tibet led to an arrangement with the Chinese imperial court to barter Yúnnán tea for the prized horses ridden by Tibetan warriors. By the Song dynasty (AD 960–1279), 20,000 horses a year were coming down the road to China, while in 1661 alone some 1.5 million kilograms of tea headed to Tibet.

  Sugar and salt were also carried by the caravans of horses, mules and yaks. Buddhist monks, Christian missionaries and foreign armies utilised the trails as well to move between Myanmar, India and China. In the 18th century the Chinese stopped trading for Tibetan horses and the road went into a slow decline. Its final glory days came during WWII, when it was a vital conduit for supplies from India for the Allied troops fighting the Japanese in China. The advent of peace and the communist takeover of 1949 put an end to the road.

  4Sleeping

  Waiting for ShāxīINN$

  (沙溪古宇; Shāxī Gǔyǔ %0872 472 1877; Beiguzong Xiang; 北古宗巷 r ¥120; W)

  The rooms aren't large at this traditional courtyard house, but they're comfortable enough with reasonable beds and are set around a small garden with a well. There's also a well-stocked bar.

  Horsepen 46INN$

  (马圈46客栈; Mǎjuàn Sìshīliù Kèzhàn %0872 472 2299; www.horsepen46.com; 46 Sideng Jie; 寺登街46号 dm ¥30, r ¥80-120; iW)

  In-demand guesthouse with cute, compact rooms surrounding a sunny little courtyard. There’s a laid-back traveller vibe here with daily communal dinners (¥25). There's also free laundry, bike hire (¥20 per day) and the helpful English-speaking staff can organise hikes in the area. It's tucked away to the right of the stage in the village square.

  Old Theatre InnGUESTHOUSE$$$

  (戏台会馆; Xìtái
Huìguǎn %0872 472 2296; reservations@shaxichina.com; Duànjiādēng Village; 段家登 r incl breakfast ¥520; iW)

  This boutique guesthouse has been lovingly restored out of a 200-year-old Chinese theatre and inn. There are only five very comfortable rooms here, all with photogenic views towards the nearby mountains; book ahead. It’s located 3km north of Shāxī; you can rent a bike here (¥20) to get around.

  5Eating

  Lóngfèng Ruìyīng Qīngzhēn FànguǎnYUNNAN$

  (龙凤瑞英清真饭馆 dishes from ¥10; h7.30am-10pm)

  Excellent Huí-run restaurant on Shāxī's 'main' street. It's good for a noodle breakfast, or dinner. Try the gānbā (dried beef) or zàn shuǐ kǔ cài, a spinachlike vegetable that comes with a spicy dipping sauce. To find it, turn left at the top of Sideng Jie and walk for two minutes and look for the green sign with white characters.

  oHungry BuddhaITALIAN$$

  (大嘴佛; Dàzuǐ Fó www.soundinner.com; Sideng Jie; 寺登街 mains from ¥60; h11am-9pm Tue-Sun; Wv)

  The most sophisticated eatery in town, and one of the most notable in all Yúnnán, with a mouth-watering, all-vegetarian menu utilising locally produced ingredients. Great homemade cheese, pasta and pizza, as well as a fine breakfast. Proper wine list too. There are only 10 spots at the wooden counter where you eat and watch your meal being prepared, so grab one early.