Lonely Planet China

by Lonely Planet

  When to Go

  The best time to visit is September through to November, when you’re most likely to have clear skies and (particularly in October) blazing autumn colours to contrast with the turquoise lakes. Summer is the busiest, and also rainiest, time. Spring can be cold but still pleasant, and winter, if you’re prepared for frigid temperatures, brings dramatically frosted trees and frozen-in-place waterfalls, but also limited access to trails and an increased reliance on the park shuttle bus.

  Jiǔzhàigōu

  2Activities, Courses & Tours

  1Ecotourism ProgramA2

  4Sleeping

  2Angelie HotelA1

  5Eating

  3Ā Bù Lǔ ZīA2

  4Nuòrìlǎng Junction Tourist Service CenterA4

  5Rúyìlínkă CàipŭA1

  8Information

  Agricultural Bank of China ATMA2

  6Jiǔzhàigōu Park EntranceA2

  7Jiǔzhàigōu Visitors CentreA2

  1Sights

  oJiǔzhàigōu National ParkNATIONAL PARK

  (九寨沟风景名胜区; Jiǔzhàigōu Fēngjǐng Míngshèngqū %0837 773 9753; www.jiuzhai.com; incl bus adult/concession ¥310/200; h7am-7pm May–mid-Nov, 8am-6pm mid-Nov–Apr, last tickets 4hr before closing)

  Jiǔzhàigōu is, for many, a highlight of China. It's still possible to get a glimpse of pristine nature for a moment or two at a time in this increasingly popular park, and even ballooning visitor numbers don't detract from the raw beauty of the sparkling lakes and rugged landscapes of the park's three main branches: the Zécháwā, Rìzé and Shùzhèng Valleys. Additionally, the restricted Zhārú Valley is open to those willing to pay a premium for an immersive ecotourism experience.

  Most travellers should visit the Zécháwā Valley (则查洼沟) first, since buses stop heading to the top around 2pm to 3pm. Ride for one hour and the full 18km to the foot of the 4350m length of Long Lake (长海; Cháng Hǎi), then walk back to Five-Coloured Pool (五彩池; Wǔcǎi Chí). It's possible to walk from here all the way back to the Nuòrìlǎng Junction (诺日朗中心站; Nuòrìlǎng Zhōngxīn Zhàn) but travellers with limited time would be best advised to take the bus, especially during the low season when water levels are low in the rest of the lakes on this fork.

  From Nuòrìlǎng Bus Station, catch a shuttle for the roughly 19km ride to the Primeval Forest (原生森林; Yuánshēng Sēnlín) at the top of the Rìzé Valley (日则沟). Though not the most stunning section of the park, the 8km-long stretch of trail down from here to Bamboo Arrow Lake (箭竹海; Jiànzhú Hăi) has some of the least-trodden trails. From here it's a short hike to Panda Lake (熊猫海; Xióngmāo Hǎi), Five-Flower Lake (五花海; Wŭhuā Hǎi) and Pearl Shoals (珍珠滩; Zhēnzhūtán); three of the park's most popular attractions for their crystal-clear water, variety of colourful hues and, at the last, booming waterfalls with snowy peaks in the background. On the way keep an eye out for the path up to the Tiger Mouth (老虎嘴; Lăohŭzuĭ), a cliff-top overlook of Five-Flower Lake that shows better than perhaps anywhere else in Jiǔzhàigōu the astounding array of colours that are possible in a single small lake.

  It's around 3km from Pearl Shoals back to the Nuòrìlǎng Junction and Waterfall (诺日朗瀑布; Nuòrìlǎng Pùbù), and the top of the Shùzhèng Valley (树正沟). Most will skip the majority of this 14km valley, largely because buses tend to stop between 5pm and 6pm, after which the only option is to walk out or hire one of the very rare private vehicles as a taxi. There are a number of pretty lakes and three small Tibetan villages, however, and those with the legs to keep walking will find the paths largely free of visitors. Note that in some of the villages, especially Shùzhèng (树正寨), travellers may be approached by local families offering homestays from ¥100. This is officially against park regulations, and therefore is not recommended by Lonely Planet.

  On the way out of the park, shuttles stop a few kilometres before the exit at Zhārú Temple (扎如寺; Zhārú Sì), a large Buddhist temple open to visitors from 2pm to 6pm, beyond which lies Zhārú Village and the restricted Zhārú Valley Ecotourism base. From the temple, it's a pleasant 15-minute walk back to the visitors centre.

  Inside the park, overpriced snacks are available at any of the Tibetan villages and many of the shuttle-bus stops. For a full meal head to the pricey buffet of the Nuòrìlǎng Junction Tourist Service Center (诺日朗游客服务中心; Nuòrìlǎng Yóukè Fúwù Zhōngxīn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; buffet from ¥68), or walk uphill about 400m to a row of small restaurants with mains from ¥18 to ¥58.

  Seniors 70 and over and kids get in free but are required to purchase ¥10 visitor insurance. A ¥90 hop-on-hop-off bus fee is automatically included in admission for all visitors. During the low season (16 November to 31 March), admission tickets are valid for a second day of entry to the park.

  HOW TO ‘DO’ JIǔZHàIGōU

  ABuy early Tickets are available from the visitors centre one day in advance, until 2pm. Drop by the park the afternoon before your visit and avoid the queues the next morning.

  AStart early Get to the park entrance just a few minutes after opening. The early jam will have cleared up, and you’ll still avoid the crush of late-rising tour groups.

  AGo up first Since the most spectacular scenery is in the park’s upper reaches, you’ll see the highlights first if you take the bus to the top, then walk or ride down. Head first to either Long Lake or Grass Lake, work your way down to the Nuòrìlǎng junction, then go up the other fork. Later in the day you can see the lakes between Nuòrìlǎng and the entrance, or even double back to catch your first valley in a different light.

  AGet off the bus Trails run throughout the park; by walking, you’ll steer clear of the biggest crowds – though they're by no means empty. The walking trails are generally on the opposite side of the lakes from the road, so you’ll have more peace and quiet, too. If you have just a day, though, buses are required to see the entirety of both routes.

  APack a lunch Dining options inside the park are limited and expensive. If you bring your own food you can picnic far away from the masses and avoid spending any longer than necessary at the busiest points.

  ATake it easy Site elevations vary from 2140m to 3060m, which can be tough if you're not acclimatised. Ideally, spend a few nights in the region first to make the most of your time in the park.

  TTours & Activities

  As part of the park’s ecotourism program (九寨扎如沟生态旅游; Jiǔzhài Zhārú Gōu Zhēngtài Lǚyóu MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0837 773 7070, English 135 5148 2613; zharu.jiuzhai.com; 2nd fl, Heye Guesthouse; 荷叶迎宾馆二楼 1/2/3 days from ¥560/1320/1960) visitors can hike and even camp inside the Zhārú Valley, just east of the main tourist areas. However, numbers are restricted and prices are high, so it won't be for everyone.

  There are other great hiking opportunities all over this area, although not in the national park itself. One option is to hike around the hills near Zhuo Ma’s Homestay; Zhuo Ma can advise you on good routes. She also arranges short horse treks (¥180, two hours) from the village.

  4Sleeping Eating

  Angelie HotelHOSTEL$

  (三喜宾馆; Sānxǐ Bīnguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %133 0904 3806; Péngfēng Village; 彭丰村 dm from ¥40, r from ¥200; aW)

  Angelie Hotel is equal parts hostel and hotel, and the friendly, English-speaking staff organise Huánglóng tours (¥120), cook Chinese and Western food, and book tickets – all the usual hostel stuff in a hotel-ish setting. Dorms are stand-alone rooms on top of the roof, which offers incredible views of the mountains. From the park entrance cross the street, turn left and walk 400m.

  oZhuo Ma’s HomestayHOMESTAY$$

  (卓玛; Zhuómǎ %135 6878 3012; www.zhuomajiuzhaigou.hostel.com; per person ¥200)

  A genuine Tibetan homestay, this pretty wood cabin in a tiny village about 10km from the main park has six simple rooms and a wonderfully accommodating family. There’s a common bathroom with shower, and prices include three meals and pick-up from the bus statio
n (otherwise it’s around ¥60 in a taxi). There's also a new upscale ecolodge in the works.

  Rúyìlínkă CàipŭTIBETAN$

  (如意林卡菜谱 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %180 1577 8135; Péngfēng Village; 彭丰村 dishes ¥18-58; h9am-11pm)

  Stop in for tasty Tibetan dishes (and beers) – the meat pie (牛肉烤饼; niúròukăobĭng; ¥58) is extremely tasty, and large enough for leftovers that can make an excellent breakfast in the park the next morning. To get here walk past Ā Bù Lǔ Zī away from the direction of the park; it's three alleys up, tucked away down on the right.

  Ā Bù Lǔ ZīTIBETAN$$

  (阿布氇孜藏餐; Ābù Lǔzī Fēngqíng Zàngcānba MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %135 6878 3012; www.abuluzi.com; Péngfēng Village; 彭丰村 dishes from ¥39; h11am-11pm)

  The fanciest Tibetan restaurant in Jiǔzhàigōu, this excellent establishment is run by the same family behind Zhuo Ma’s Homestay (Zhuo Ma’s brother, Ke Zhu, is a Lhasa- and Běijīng-trained chef). There's an extensive menu of delicious Tibetan dishes, and some Western ones as well. For a quick fix, there's an affiliated dumpling joint downstairs.

  8Information

  A China Construction Bank ATM ( GOOGLE MAP ) at the park entrance accepts foreign cards, as does the Agricultural Bank of China ATM ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) (in Péngfēng Village), where you can also change cash.

  The park has an informative multi-language website (www.jiuzhai.com). The visitors centre (沟口游客中心; Gōukŏu Yóukè Zhōngxīn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; park entrance; 沟口 h7am-2pm) by the park entrance ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) is less helpful.

  8Getting There & Away

  Air

  More than a dozen daily flights link Chéngdū with Jiǔzhàigōu Airport (officially, Jiǔhuáng Airport), which is actually located in Chuānzhǔ Sì (川主寺), a small town closer to Sōngpān than Jiǔzhàigōu. Direct-flight routes in high season include Běijīng, Shànghǎi, Hángzhōu, Chóngqìng, Kūnmíng and Xī’ān.

  Shuttle buses to Jiǔzhàigōu (¥50, 1½ hours) meet arriving flights and drop off at Mènghuàn Jiǔzhài parking lot (梦幻九寨停车场; Mènghuàn Jiǔzhài tíngchē chǎng), 4km west of the park entrance. A taxi from there costs about ¥10. Early arrivals also have the option of a shuttle to Jiǔzhàigōu via Huánglóng National Park (¥120, 1½ hours) with a four-hour stop for sightseeing before continuing on.

  A taxi all the way from the airport is pricey during peak season – about ¥300 (over ¥500 after 11pm). Many hotels and hostels offer pick-up services for about the same price.

  Bus

  Jiǔzhàigōu Central Bus Station (九寨沟口汽车站; Jiǔzhàigōukǒu Qìchēzhàn GOOGLE MAP ) is just 2km east of the park entrance. Some buses arrive at Jiǔzhàigōu Xiàn's station (九寨沟县), 40km away. A taxi from Jiǔzhàigōu Xiàn to Péngfēng Village costs ¥40 to ¥100, depending on season and time of day.

  Selected buses departing Jiǔzhàigōu Central Bus Station:

  AChéngdū ¥140 to ¥155, 10 hours, 12 daily from 6.50am to 9.30am

  AChóngqìng ¥250, 12 hours, one daily (7.30am)

  AGuǎngyuán ¥123, eight hours, one daily (6.30am)

  AHuánglóng National Park ¥48, three hours, two daily (7am, 7.30am)

  ASōngpān ¥43, two hours, one daily (7.30am)

  Note that you can travel to western Sìchuān, via Mă'ĕrkāng (¥170, 8am) and Dānbā, without having to go via Chéngdū.

  8Getting Around

  Taxis ply the streets and don't use meters. Generally, rides within Péngfēng Village and to Jiǔzhàigōu Central Bus Station cost ¥10.

  In Jiǔzhàigōu National Park, from Nuòrìlǎng Bus Station (诺日朗车站; Nuòrìlǎng Chēzhàn GOOGLE MAP ) catch a shuttle for the roughly 19km ride to the Primeval Forest (原生森林; Yuánshēng Sēnlín) at the top of the Rìzé Valley (日则沟).

  HUáNGLóNG NATIONAL PARK

  Huánglóng National ParkNATIONAL PARK

  (黄龙景区; Huánglóng Jǐngqū %0837 724 9166; www.huanglong.com; adult/student & senior ¥200/110, cable car ¥80; h8am-5pm)

  A trip to Huánglóng National Park is essentially a three- to four-hour, moderate hike up and down one small valley. However, the valley is stunning, with exquisite terraces of coloured limestone ponds in blues, greens, oranges, yellows and white. The best time to come from is June to October, ideally during mild July and August. Outside of this period, lack of water in the pools significantly reduces the visual impact of the park. At this elevation (3600m), always bring a jacket.

  With smaller crowds than Jiǔzhàigōu, Huánglóng is certainly worth the trip in the right season. To see the whole park, walk 800m to the cable car (9am to 5pm), which drops you in a deep forest. The path leads you up a few kilometres to the start of the main sights, and then down again to the entrance – some 8km of long ascents and descents in all.

  By the park entrance is a visitor centre with restaurant, teahouse and luggage check. Pack a picnic as bottled water costs ¥10 in the park. There are also a few expensive tour-group hotels nearby, but most people visit as a day trip from Sōngpān or Jiǔzhàigōu.

  To get here, two daily buses depart Jiǔzhàigōu (¥48, three hours, 7am and 7.30am); travellers arriving on early-morning flights can take an airport shuttle (¥120, 1½ hours) directly to Huánglóng, where they will wait for four hours before departing for Jiǔzhàigōu. There's also one return bus to Jiǔzhàigōu (¥45, 3pm) and a minibus (¥120, departs when full) by the visitor centre. To get to Sōngpān, take the Jiǔzhàigōu bus and ask the driver to drop you at Chuānzhǔ Sì (川主寺; one hour), where you can catch a shared taxi to Sōngpān (¥60).

  Lángzhōng 阆中

  %0817 / Pop 242,535

  An endless sea of black-tile roofs with waves of swooping eaves, flagstone streets lined with tiny shops, and temples atop hills of mist overlooking the river. It's all here in the town of Lángzhōng (阆中), Sìchuān’s capital city for 20 years during the Qing dynasty and now home to the province’s largest grouping of extant traditional architecture.

  1Sights

  Imperial Examination HallHISTORIC BUILDING

  (贡院; Gòng Yuàn Xuedao Jie; 学道街 ¥55; h8am-6.30pm)

  The best-preserved Qing-era imperial examination hall in China, with a number of in-character actors on hand to pose for photographs. On Xuedao Jie (学道街), which is parallel to Wumiao Jie, one block north.

  Zhang Fei TempleTEMPLE

  (张飞庙; Zhāngfēi Miào Xi Jie; 西街 ¥58; h8am-6.30pm)

  This temple is the tomb of local boy Zhang Fei, a respected general during the kingdom of Shu and hero of the Three Kingdoms epics, who administered the kingdom from here until his murder in the year 221. It’s on Xi Jie, a continuation of Wumiao Jie.

  Feudal Government OfficeHISTORIC BUILDING

  (道台衙门; Dàotái Yámén Xuedao Jie; 学道街 ¥40; h8am-6.30pm)

  Dioramas inside this recreation of a Shu-era government office depict scenes of legal hearings, officials' lives and feudal-era prisons alongside captions (in limited English) describing the workings of the era's bureaucracy.

  Jǐnpíng ParkMOUNTAIN

  (锦屏山; Jǐnpíng Shān ¥25; h8am-6pm)

  Considered an essential element of the feng shui balance of ancient Lángzhōng and holy to Taoists, Jǐnpíng is dotted with pavilions, temples and caves. To get here, catch a ferry (¥3, from 8am to 6pm) across the river from the wharf just below the Huáguāng Tower (华光楼; Huáguāng Lóu 21 Dadong Jie; 大东街21号 ¥20; h8am-6.30pm).

  Jǐnpíng GateTOWER

  (锦屏门; Jǐnpíng Mén h8am-6.30pm)F

  Originally constructed in 1371 and renovated in 1767, the current version of Jǐnpíng Gate is a 2010 rebuild. Join art students sketching from the top in admiring the old town's slate rooftops from the concrete staircase just off Nan Jie, a street running parallel to Dadong Jie.

  Zhōngtiān TowerTOWER

  (中天楼; Zhōngtiān Lóu Wumiao Jie; 武庙街 ¥20; h8am-6.30pm)

  For bird’s-eye views of the city’
s rooftops and lanes, climb to the top of Zhōngtiān Lóu, a 2006 rebuild on the way to Zhang Fei Temple in the centre of the old town.

  4Sleeping

  oTiānyī Youth HotelGUESTHOUSE$$

  (天一青年旅舍; Tiānyī Qīngnián Lǚshě %0817 622 5501; www.fshui.com; 100 Dadong Jie; 大东街100号 r without bathroom ¥98-138, with bathroom ¥168-238; aiW)

  If you want to improve your geomancy, settle into this beautiful courtyard inn beside the Fēng Shuǐ Museum. The nice twin rooms are each inspired by a particular feng-shui element: earth, wood, fire, metal or water. The shared-bathroom twins and doubles are more simple, but are crisp and clean with lots of natural wood. Some have simple bedrolls (褥子; rùzi).

  oAncient HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$$

  (杜家客栈; Dùjiā Kèzhàn %0817 622 4436; 63 Xiaxin Jie; 下新街63号 r from ¥480; ai)

  The nicest rooms in this large wooden building with multiple courtyards are set around a back courtyard with an open-air stage (performances Friday and Saturday from 8pm to 10pm), and go for a discounted ¥295. Less-expensive rooms are slightly smaller and off the main courtyards, but share the same historical ambience (also discounted, to ¥148). Turn right off Dadong Jie just before Huáguāng Tower.