Lonely Planet China
Page 165
8Getting There & Away
You can fly between Xīnjiāng and most of the larger Chinese cities, as well as to several Central Asian capitals and a couple of cities further afield, including Moscow, Tehran, Dubai, Seoul and Istanbul.
There are overland border crossings with Pakistan (Khunjerab Pass), Kyrgyzstan (Irkeshtam and Torugart Passes) and Kazakhstan (Korgas, Ālāshānkǒu, Tǎchéng and Jímùnǎi). The Qolma Pass to Tajikistan remains closed to foreign travel, sadly. All of these border crossings are by bus, except Ālāshānkǒu, China’s only rail link to Central Asia. A new high-speed railway line to Pakistan is under construction.
Heading back into mainland China, the obvious route is the train line following the Silk Road through Gānsù. More rugged approaches are the mountain roads from Charklik to Qīnghǎi, and Karghilik to Ali (Tibet).
8Getting Around
Xīnjiāng is enormous (slightly bigger than Iran), and getting around usually takes time, money or both. The bus is the standard way to get around, and while bus journeys are cheap, new laws forbidding drivers to drive overnight and constant document checks along the way have increased travel times over the past few years. Buses are often sleepers, which means you're on either the top (cheaper) or bottom (pricier) bunk, arranged in three lines down the middle of the bus. On-board entertainment usually includes kung fu–film marathons cranked to the hilt. Shared taxis run along many of the bus routes, taking up to half as long, and costing twice as much as buses. Shared taxis only depart when full.
In 2015, the brand new Ürümqi–Lánzhōu high-speed railway line opened, massively cutting travel times within Eastern Xīnjiāng. In the west of the province, train journeys are not nearly as fast, but they're a lot of fun, with overnight sleepers being the norm – a great way to meet locals.
Flying around the province can save a lot of time and tickets are often discounted by up to 60%. Be aware that flights can sometimes be cancelled for lack of passengers or due to bad weather, but if you have more money than time, this is a good way to claw some back.
Central Xīnjiāng
Bound by deserts and mountain ranges, much of present-day Central Xīnjiāng would have been completely familiar to Silk Road traders on the Northern Route to Kashgar. Today the largest and most important city in the region is Xīnjiāng's capital, Ürümqi, though for travellers the ancient cities around Turpan, the Tianshan mountains, and the Buddha caves of Kuqa are the bigger draws.
Ürümqi 乌鲁木齐
%0991 / Pop 3.1 million
In Xīnjiāng's capital, Ürümqi (乌鲁木齐; Wūlǔmùqí), high-rise apartments form a modern skyline that will soon dash any thoughts of spotting wandering camels and ancient caravanserais. The vast majority of its inhabitants are Han Chinese, and the city is one of the least typical of Xīnjiāng, though glimpses of the distant Tiān Shān mountains provide a taste of the extraordinary landscapes awaiting you elsewhere.
As a fast-growing Central Asian hub, the city does business with traders from Běijīng to Baku and plays host to an exotic mix of people. Indeed, it's hard to imagine where else in the world you'll see Chinese, Arabic, Latin and Cyrillic script so commonly side-by-side. This truly is Central Asia.
Ürümqi is not a historic city, but its museum is excellent and there are some atmospheric Uighur districts. Most travellers pass through the provincial capital at some point, and many find their stay to be surprisingly enjoyable.
Ürümqi
1Top Sights
1Xīnjiāng Autonomous Region MuseumA2
1Sights
2Hóngshān ParkC3
3People's ParkC5
4Sleeping
4Jǐnjiāng InnD5
5Màitián International Youth HostelB4
6Sheraton Ürümqi HotelA2
7White Birch International Youth HostelD1
5Eating
8EminD7
9Tous Les JoursB4
10XīqíB4
6Drinking & Nightlife
11FubarC4
1Sights & Activities
oXīnjiāng Autonomous Region MuseumMUSEUM
(新疆自治区博物馆; Xīnjiāng Zìzhìqū Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 132 Xibei Lu; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)F
Xīnjiāng’s massive provincial museum is a must for Silk Road aficionados. The highlight is the locally famous ‘Loulan Beauty’, the first of half a dozen 3800-year-old desert-mummified bodies of Xīnjiāng's erstwhile Indo-European inhabitants. Other exhibits include some amazing silks, decorative arts, pottery and sculpture, a collection of white jade and an introduction to the traditions of each of the province’s minorities. From the Hóngshān Intersection, take bus 7 for four stops and ask to get off at the museum (bówùguǎn).
Èrdàoqiáo MarketBAZAAR
(二道桥市场; Èrdàoqiáo Shìchǎng GOOGLE MAP ; Jiefang Lu)
The Èrdàoqiáo Market and nearby International Bazaar (Guójì Dàbāzhá) have undergone extensive ‘redevelopment’ in recent years and are now aimed more at Chinese tour groups than Uighur traders. Planted in the bazaar is a replica of the Kalon Minaret from Bukhara in Uzbekistan (though the 12th-century original doesn’t have an elevator inside it). The surrounding streets are worth a stroll for their Uighur markets and snack stalls.
Hóngshān ParkPARK
(红山公园; Hóngshān Gōngyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥10; hdawn-dusk)
More of an amusement park than a natural wonder, Hóngshān Park is nevertheless a great place to stroll and enjoy the good city views, particularly from the 18th-century hilltop pagoda, which has become something of a city icon. The main southern entrance is to the north of the Xīdàqiáo Intersection – it can be hard to find your way in elsewhere, as the park is fenced off with totalitarian relish.
People’s ParkPARK
(人民公园; Rénmín Gōngyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h7.30am-dusk)
A green oasis with manicured grounds and a ceremonial pagoda in its centre, around which visitors may paddle little boats in the summer months. Like most parks here, its perimeters are sealed with high fences and razor wire: enter either via the park's north or south entrance.
oAltus ExpeditionsADVENTURE
(%0991 230 0257; www.altus-expeditions.com)
This American-run, Ürümqi-based adventure travel company offers tours all over Xīnjiāng, and specialises in cycling trips, for which it has a fleet of top-of-the-line mountain bikes. Expect physically challenging but safety-conscious adventure packages. Bespoke tours can also be arranged, and the owners know Xīnjiāng better than almost anyone else.
WHICH TIME IS IT?
All of China officially runs on Běijīng time (Běijīng shíjiān). Xīnjiāng, several time zones removed from Běijīng, however, unofficially runs duelling clocks: while the Chinese tend to stick to the official Běijīng time, the locals set their clocks to unofficial Xīnjiāng time (Xīnjiāng shíjiān), two hours behind Běijīng time. Thus 9am Běijīng time is 7am Xīnjiāng time. Most government-run services, such as banks, post offices, bus stations and airlines, run on Běijīng time, generally operating from 10am to 1.30pm and from 4pm to 8pm to cater to the time difference. Uighurs will often automatically use Xīnjiāng time – a political statement as much as anything else – so always double check which clock they're using when making plans!
4Sleeping
White Birch International Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(白桦林国际青年旅舍; Báihuàlín Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0991 488 1428; jiangtao.xj@foxmail.com; 186 Nanhu Nanlu; 南湖南路186号 dm ¥40-60, d ¥160; iW)
There's usually at least one English-speaking staff member at this hostel who can help with local tips and onward transport. The hostel is a bit out of the centre but rooms are fine, if sparse, and there's laundry and a nearby park. It's the most popular spot for international backpackers, and as such it's the best place to meet other travellers.
Email for bus directions or to arrange a pick-up from the airport.
Màitián International Youth Host
elHOSTEL$
(麦田国际青年旅舍; Màitián Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0991 459 1488, 139 9988 3785; 726 Youhao Nanlu; 友好南路726号 dm ¥45-60, r ¥160; iW)
On the east side of the Parkson Shopping Mall, the excellently located Màitián has simple doubles and dorms, some with private bathrooms, and a chilled out, brightly decorated common area and bar. The cheapest dorms share decent bathrooms and all the rooms get a regular cleaning. Book ahead in summer. The friendly staff speak almost no English.
Jǐnjiāng InnHOTEL$$
(锦江之星; Jǐnjiāng Zhīxīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0991 281 5000; 93 Hongqi Lu; r incl breakfast ¥249; aW)
This small and rather under-the-radar place is nevertheless a real find – it's in the heart of Ürümqi and has spotless (if rather functional) minimalist rooms that come with TVs, kettles and bright red furniture. In fact, for this price, it's streets ahead of most of the other midrange accommodation options. Some English is spoken.
Sheraton Ürümqi HotelLUXURY HOTEL$$$
(喜来登乌鲁木齐酒店; Xǐláidēng Wūlǔmùqí Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0991 699 9999; www.starwoodhotels.com; 669 Youhao Beilu; r from ¥607; naiWs)
There is no shortage of luxury accommodation in Ürümqi these days, but all in all, the Sheraton's offerings are the best in town. The property has a prime location on the city's best shopping street and is actually quite affordable given its excellent facilities, English-speaking staff and high service standards. Rooms are big, well appointed and stylishly furnished.
PRICE RANGES
SLEEPING
$ less than ¥150
$$ ¥150–300
$$$ more than ¥300
EATING
$ less than ¥30 (for a main course)
$$ ¥30–50
$$$ more than ¥50
5Eating
Ürümqi has the greatest variety of cuisine available in Xīnjiāng, whether it be the ad hoc Uighur street food that takes over entire neighbourhoods in the evenings, or the more formal restaurants offering cuisine from all regions of China and beyond.
XīqíNOODLES$
(西岐 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Lanxiuyuan Xijie; 揽秀园西街 mains ¥15-22; h24hr)
This fantastic place in the heart of the city is busy with hungry diners all day and night. The fare is simple but delicious: choose from a variety of steaming bowls of spicy noodles and delicious meat-filled buns. Point at what you want at the counter, pay and take your number and grab a booth.
Tous Les JoursCAFE, BAKERY$
(多乐之日; Duōlè Zhī Rì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Youhao Nanlu; 友好南路, Parkson Shopping Mall cakes from ¥5; h10am-10pm; W)
This excellent bakery serves up an impressive selection of baked goods, including croissants, fresh bread and cakes, and does real coffee, fresh juice and a number of other things that might seem like a dream come true after weeks of Chinese hotel breakfasts. There are several other outlets around town, but this one is the handiest.
RendezvousINTERNATIONAL$$
(瑞都西餐厅; Ruìdōuxī Cāntīng %0991 255 5003; 960 Yan'an Lu; 延安路960号 mains ¥32-65; h11am-10.30pm; W)
Well worth travelling out a little way for, this American-run cafe offers a welcome change of pace from Ürümqi's other dining options, with pizza, sandwiches, Tex-Mex and real coffee on the menu, not to mention an English menu, English-speaking staff and wi-fi. It's in the neighbourhood around the Russian market; take a cab.
Huāzhī LínTAIWANESE$$
(花之林 GOOGLE MAP ; %0991 480 0111; Youhao Nanlu, 3rd fl, Apical Center Boutique Hotel; mains ¥20-128; h11am-10pm; W)
This bright and stylish place, with plush booths, private nooks and city views is the place for a Taiwanese feast, though you'll struggle if you don't have a Chinese speaker with you as the menu has few photos. Try sānbēi jī (三杯鸡; chicken on the bone), hóngshāo ròu (红烧肉; braised pork belly) and the delicious huāzhīlín tèkè cài (花之林特克菜; pancakes with eggs and pepper).
EminUIGHUR$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0991 888 8462; Longquan Jie; meals ¥15-50; h8am-midnight)
This is a great spot to try Uighur food if you fancy something more formal than a street kebab stand. There's a pictorial menu to help you decide between various beef and lamb dishes; take a seat in the red-velvet chairs studded with 'gems' and enjoy the steaming Uighur tea as you watch the locals eating around you.
CarrefourSUPERMARKET$
(加乐福; Jiālèfú GOOGLE MAP ; h8am-10pm)
This French supermarket chain offers good produce and has excellent-value cafeterias. There's another branch located at Èrdàoqiáo Market.
6Drinking & Nightlife
FubarBAR
(福吧; Fúbā MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 40 Gongyuan Beijie, 公园北街40号 beer ¥25-35, mains ¥40-80; h7pm-4am; W)
This well-known, long-running expat watering hole has a good selection of imported beers, and classic pub grub such as pizzas and burgers. It's popular with a crowd of young expat teachers and volunteers, making this a good place to get the up-to-date information about goings on in and around Ürümqi. There's a pool table and views into the People's Park.
7Shopping
Navigate the OutdoorsSPORTS & OUTDOORS
(畅行户外用品店, Chàngxíng Hùwài Yòngpǐn Diàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0991 453 0938; 437 Youhao Nanlu)
Almost directly opposite the China Southern Airlines Hotel, this small shop rents camping gear such as tents (per day ¥15), sleeping bags (per day ¥10) and sleeping pads (per day ¥5).
8Information
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Jiefang Beilu & Dongfeng Lu; h10am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3.30pm Sat & Sun)
Can handle most transactions and has an ATM.
China International Travel ServiceTICKET OFFICE
(CITS; 中国国际旅行社; Zhōngguó Guójì Lǚxíngshè GOOGLE MAP ; %0991 282 1428; www.xinjiangtour.com; 16th fl, 33 Renmin Lu; h10am-7.30pm Mon-Fri)
This office runs tours around the province and can supply a driver and English-speaking guide.
China PostPOST
(中国邮政; Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; Hóngshān Intersection; h10am-10pm)
The main branch handles all international parcels.
Public Security BureauPOLICE
(PSB; 公安局; Gōng’ānjú GOOGLE MAP ; %0991 281 0452, ext 3456; Kelamayi Donglu; h10am-1.30pm & 4-6pm Mon-Fri)
You should be able to renew a visa here but processing times can be as long as three weeks, so it's really a last resort. It's far better to come to Xīnjiāng with plenty of time left on your visa for your travels.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Ürümqi Diwopu International Airport is a big domestic and international hub, and its international destinations include Almaty (Kazakhstan), Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan), Baku (Azerbaijan), Tbilisi (Georgia), Istanbul (Turkey), Islamabad (Pakistan), Seoul (South Korea), Dubai (UAE), Moscow (Russia), Dushanbe (Tajikistan), Tashkent (Uzbekistan) and Tehran (Iran). Some of these flights are seasonal, however, and schedules change with great regularity.
You can get to Ürümqi by direct flights from almost anywhere in China. Destinations within Xīnjiāng include Altay (Ālètài), Hotan (Hétián), Kashgar (Kāshí), Kuqa (Kùchē), Tǎchéng and Yīníng. China Southern has the most flights to and around Xīnjiāng, with a central booking office in the Southern Airlines Pearl International Hotel (南方航空收票处; Nánfāng Hángkōng Shòupiàochù GOOGLE MAP ; www.global.csair.com; 576 Youhao Nanlu).
Bus
There are two long-distance bus stations in Ürümqi, one of which serves northern destinations, the other serves destinations to the south.
The main bus station (碾子沟长途汽车站; Niǎnzigōu Chángtú Qìchēzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; Heilongjiang Lu) has sleeper buses to the following:
ABù’ěrjīn ¥178 to ¥188, 13 hours, three daily (11am, 8pm and 8.30pm)
AHāmì ¥150 to ¥160, 10 hou
rs, two daily (1pm and 8pm)
AYīníng ¥193 to ¥203, 10 to 13 hours, almost hourly (8am to 9pm)
BRT bus 1 runs from the train station to Hóngshān, passing Heilongjiang Lu on the way. Bus 44 or 906 pass directly in front of the bus station.
The south bus station (南郊客运站; Nánjiāo kèyùnzhàn Xinhua Nanlu) has frequent departures to the following: