Marijuana Grower's Handbook

by Ed Rosenthal

  MUCKS

  Mucks are composed primarily of humus from drained swampland or bogs and are found in areas that get plenty of rain. Though they are often very fertile and normally support dense vegetation, mucks are fairly acidic. They contain little potassium, so this nutrient needs to be added.

  Mucks range from very dense to a lighter, sandy soil. Denser mucks need tilling so that healthy roots can develop. Lighter mucks are easily cleared for planting. The dense vegetation that mucks support may be helpful in that, when turned into the soil, the plant material becomes “green” manure.

  SOIL TESTS

  The best way to learn about your soil or planting mix is to have a professional laboratory perform a soil test. This is the only way to know exactly how much of each nutrient the soil contains. Using the results, you can target the best ways to amend the planting medium to meet the plant’s needs.

  These soil tests were performed on various planting mixes that are widely available in hydroponic and gardening supply stores.

  The test performed by Perry Labs has 19 parameters. They are listed along with general guidelines for the preferred range:

  PH Proper pH is important because outside of the range some essential nutrients become unavailable.

  EC (Electrical Conductivity) A low EC means that there are not a lot of available nutrients. When EC is too high, water although present, becomes unavailable to the roots.

  NITRATE (NO3) is the form of N that plants absorb most easily. Notice that the manure has a low rating. Most of its N is held in organic compounds and is released over time.

  AMMONIUM (NH4) is absorbed, to a limited extent, directly by the plants. However, it is used by soil organisms and converted to the more soluble and plant friendly NO3. It is not desirable because it is toxic to plants in high amounts.

  PHOSPHOROUS (P) is one of the macronutrients plants need. Soluble P is very acidic so it brings down the pH of soil in too large an amount.

  POTASSIUM (K) is one of the macronutrients plants need.

  CALCIUM (CA) is often considered a macronutrient because plants use so much of it. It is usually adequate in garden soils, but some planting mixes don’t contain enough. Coir and pure peat moss have very little.

  There are also results for other plant nutrients including magnesium, sulfur, boron, zinc, copper, manganese, iron, sodium, and chlorine.

  The next two categories, Moisture Holding Capacity and Air Filled Porosity, are indications of how well the medium holds each. Mediums with high water holding capacity need irrigation infrequently as compared with those that hold less. The roots need oxygen, which is found in air. Mediums with high air holding capacity meet roots needs. Low air capacity leads to anaerobic conditions.

  Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) is the ability of the soil to hold nutrients. Too low a level indicates a soil or planting medium that has the capacity to hold few nutrients.

  DRAINAGE

  No matter how well the soil is prepared, the groundwater level and the permeability of the lower layers are of utmost importance. Soils in areas with high water tables or underlying clay or hardpan do not drain well. In either case, the garden can be grown in raised beds filled with soil from the site that has been amended with additives and nutrients. If the local soil is too poor, use landscape soil or planting mix.

  CLAY SOILS

  Clays are made of fine crystalline particles formed by chemical reactions between minerals. These particles are so small that they have no structure when wet, but react more like a very viscous liquid. Sticky and easily molded or shaped when wet, when dry clay forms hard clods, normally observed as a grid of square cracks along the ground surface. Clays are rather difficult to work with, mainly because they drain so poorly.

  Despite their disadvantages, clay soils are often very fertile. The success of a plant in clay soil depends on how well the soil drains. A reddish-colored clay soil (sometimes referred to as “red dirt”) indicates proper aeration and good drainage. Blue or gray clays mostly have insufficient aeration for growing marijuana; they must be tilled and amended in order to support healthy growth.

  Since marijuana roots (particularly the vertical ones) must penetrate the soil, it is necessary to till clay soils thoroughly to loosen them. The addition of perlite, sand, used planting mix, compost, gypsum, manure, and fresh clippings helps loosen and aerate clay soils.

  In low-lying areas, stream banks for example, the soil often retains too much water. This can lead to rot in both roots and stems. Planting mounds help the soil drain so the stem and taproot stay dry.

  Prepare clay soil in late autumn before frost by tilling it and adding conditioners such as bark, charcoal, compost, grass clippings, gypsum, leaves, manure, paper and cardboard planting mix and wood chips.

  Spread ground cover seed such as clover, vetch, or rye over the top of the soil after tilling. This creates green manure that provides soil texture as well as air and water pathways.

  If the soil is still sticky, break up large clods and add compost and sand in early spring. At planting, use a hoe to till the specific areas where the seeds will be planted.

  As the composts and green manure raise the organic level in the soil, it becomes less dense. With each passing year you’ll find that the soil becomes easier to work with. The roots will have an easier time penetrating the soil. After several years, you’ll likely discover the only thing you have to do is turn the cover crop over. No further tilling should be needed.

  LOAMS

  Loams are a combination of the soils discussed above. They are usually made up mostly of sand and silt with about 20% clay. They are described as sandy silt, silty clay, sandy clay or organic silty clay. Organic loams are made up of at least 20% organic matter. Loams range from easily worked fertile soils all the way to densely packed sod. Loams with a lot of organic matter produce an excellent marijuana crop with little soil modification.

  Loams usually have good drainage, but hold water well. They are packed with nutrients and are excellent garden soils.

  HUMUS AND COMPOSTS

  Decayed organic matter, including plant life, animal droppings and microbes, are referred to as humus or compost. Nutrient contents depend upon the original ingredients, but most humus or compost contain bacteria, fungi, insects, worms and microorganisms that are necessary for a complete conversion of important nutrients. During their life processes, many of these organisms convert insoluble chemicals to a soluble form that plant roots can absorb.

  Humus and composts hold water well and are frequently added to condition soils, as mentioned earlier.

  Good compost has a rich, earthy smell and a dark brown to black color. They usually contain partially decayed matter, such as twigs or leaves.

  Humus and compost can be produced naturally as part of the soil’s life process, or they can be “manufactured” at your grow site simply by gathering the native vegetation and piling it up. It takes between one and three months to cure, depending on what type of matter you are using. Decomposition of the humus or compost can be achieved more quickly by chopping up the ingredients, turning the pile, and adding substances high in nitrogen, including chemical fertilizers Most compost is neutral to slightly alkaline, but acidic compost piles can be “sweetened” using lime. Adding lime to highly acidic compost shortens the curing time since microbes prefer an only slightly acidic environment.

  pH

  The pH level is a measure of how alkaline (sweet) or acidic (sour) it is. The pH scale runs from 0 to 14, with 7 considered neutral: a pH level below 7 is acid, above 7 is alkaline. The pH determines the solubility of nutrients and affects the plant’s regulation of its metabolism and nutrient uptake. Slightly acidic soils with a pH range from 5.8 to 6.5 are regarded as marijuana friendly.

  The pH of the soil interacts with the soil’s composition to affect nutrient solubility. Soils with a high percentage of organic matter contain nutrients that are soluble between pH levels of 5.0 and 6.5. Phosphorous, manganese, and boron (which are discu
ssed in more detail in the following chapter) are less soluble at pH values above 6.5.

  Dry western states have soil that usually ranges from slightly acidic to highly alkaline. Nutrients tend to be quite soluble in these types of soils, providing that the pH range is adjusted to between 6.0 and 6.5. Use a simple pH meter or a test kit, available at most gardening stores, to accurately test the soil ph. If it is alkaline or near neutral, adjust the soil accordingly before planting.

  Over-watering combined with a dense, non-porous medium makes roots vulnerable to mold and diseases. House and Garden Roots Excelurator removes mold and disease from the root system removes as well as inoculates the soil with beneficial bacteria that facilitate root growth.

  ADJUSTING THE pH

  Always test the pH of any soil you are using. The pH of your garden soil may be different from other soils in the area, so don’t trust what your neighbor is doing. Developers and homeowners often truck in new soil if the native soil is poor in texture, nutrients, or both.

  Keep in mind that soils vary in the amount of material needed to adjust the pH. Sandy soils require less material to change pH as compared to loam. Clays require the most because of their density and the electrical charge of the soil particles. Whether your soil is excessively alkaline or acid, there are a number of materials you can add to adjust the pH.

  ADJUSTING ACID SOILS

  Limestone, also known as Ca carbonate (CaCO3), is the best way to treat acidic soils. Quarried and powdered limestone contains large amounts of trace elements. It comes in three forms: ground limestone, quicklime, hydrated, and liquid lime (which is the fastest acting).

  Dolomitic limestone is a limestone variety high in magnesium as well as Ca. It is a good choice for adjusting the acidic, magnesium-deficient soils often found in the Northeast.

  Seashells and egg shells, are composed mostly of Ca and both raise soil pH. Grind them into a fine powder using a blender. They affect soil pH gradually. By contrast, most wood ashes are alkaline and extremely soluble, so they affect soil pH very quickly.

  All commercial limes list their Ca carbonate equivalent, which is a measure of their neutralizing power, on the bag.

  To determine how much lime to use, divide the total amount of limestone required by the pH test by the Ca carbonate equivalent. For example, a field may require 50 pounds (22 kg) of limestone, and the Ca carbonate limestone we are discussing for our purposes may have an equivalent of 1.78. If you divide the 50 pounds (22 kg) by 1.78, the resulting figure, about 29 pounds (13 kg), is the amount you will require.

  Grade, or particle size, of the powder is also listed on the package. The categories used define the fineness of the powder: superfine, pulverized, agricultural grade and fine meal. Finer grades result in faster soil-adjusting action, but are more prone to washing away.

  THE TW0 KINDS OF SOIL HORIZONS THAT FORM UNDER PRAIRIE AND FOREST VEGETATION, AND INTERGRADES BETWEEN THE TWO

  A: The surface horizon consists of organic debris including dead vegetation and animal droppings. It is in various degrees of decay, the top layer, the most recent has the least decay. This horizon is deeper in forests, where leaves are constantly falling seasonally, adding to the pile. Before earthworms were introduced to the Americas, Eastern forests had larger layers. Now earthworms carry the material to their tunnels below the surface.

  B: Uppermost Horizon is more prominent in prairie soils. It consists of minerals and organic matter. Grass roots carry nutrients and organic mateer to the root zone which may extend several feet. The organic matter mixes with the mineral soil already present. In forest soils this layer is much shallower. However, earthworm activity has increased organic content.

  C: Subsurface horizon consists of clay or other semi-porous layer. This layer is missing from some soils.

  D: Subsurface—a mixture of mineral soil, rocks, pebbles, and clay.

  E: Geologic—bedrock, or other non organically produced materials.

  Add lime to a depth of one inch (2.5 cm) four to five months ahead of planting so it has time to adjust the soil. You can water it into the soil. Water well afterwards or spread it before a rain, providing that the soil is moist enough to absorb the water and lime, and it does not simply run off.

  Adjust the medium in planting holes and raised beds. Soil can be adjusted with lime during or after planting, as long as the lime doesn’t come into direct contact with the plants. You can add hydrated or liquid lime to soil with a hose-end sprayer. Lime can also be mixed in irrigation water; however, it can clog up drip lines, hoses, and pumps. You can also use a liquid hydroponic adjuster such as pH Up (usually a potassium salt) to raise irrigation water pH; it has an immediate effect because it’s water-soluble.

  ADJUSTING ALKALINE SOILS

  Alkaline soils have a pH higher than 7, outside the range for optimum marijuana growth. Adjust alkaline soils using iron sulfate or magnesium sulfate. Both sulfates can be introduced into the soil in the same way as lime. Don’t use aluminum sulfate because marijuana has a low tolerance for aluminum.

  Some growers adjust alkaline soils using organic mulch or by working acidic material into the soil. Cottonseed meal, for instance, is acidic and high in nitrogen, so it works well. Coffee grounds, pine needles, and citrus rinds are all very acidic.

  ADJUSTING ALKALI SOILS

  Alkali (as opposed to alkaline) soils have a high sodium content and frequently a pH above 8.5. They are usually hard-packed and crusty, sometimes with white powdery salts on the surface. They don’t absorb water easily.

  Alkali soils such as those found in western Colorado, parts of the U.S. Southwest, Spain and the Caspian Sea area of Central Europe can be frustrating, energy draining, and time consuming to work with. Farmers usually prepare alkali soils for cultivation by leaching them of the toxic accumulation of salts. This is achieved by tilling the soil to a depth of 30” (75 cm) and then flood-irrigating using 6-12" (15-30 cm) of water at least once or twice to flush the salt deep into the soil, out of contact with the roots. Next, the soil is tested to determine the amount of amendment needed. Phosphorous fertilizers are acidic and quickly bring the pH of these soils down to a more suitable pH.

  Another method of adjusting alkali soils is to add a thick mulch layer, which interacts with the soil during the winter. The mulch layer should be a minimum of 9" (23 cm) thick, or about 130 lbs. (60 kg) per 100 sq ft (10 sq m). Thicker mulch layers neutralize more salts faster.

  OFFSITE OUTDOOR CULTIVATION

  No matter where you are growing, marijuana has the same requirements, so the same gardening rules apply. The difficulty of maintaining an offsite garden depends on the environment. Offsite gardens are usually located in secluded areas that are difficult to access, so growers must adapt their methods accordingly.

  Unfortunately, soils in areas suitable for clandestine gardening are often inadequate, and amending the soil can pose challenges. If it is impractical to bring a sufficient amount of bulk amendments to the garden, organic materials can be gathered at the site in the fall and used as compost over the winter. Adding fertilizers high in nitrogen and phosphorous hastens the decomposition.

  Transporting supplies and tools to the site can be facilitated by small off-road cycles or pack animals. Horses or mules can also be used to plow, with the advantage that they generate much less noise than motorized machinery and eliminate the need to carry fuel.

  Growing offsite can be an arduous adventure.

  The gardening methods appropriate for offsite cultivation are determined by local variables. A naturally fertile area near a stream may require little more than clearing vegetation and cultivating in the available soil. By contrast, the soil present on a steep slope may need to be augmented to compensate for the natural erosion of topsoil.

  OUTDOOR WATER SAVING TECHNIQUES

  This section is devoted to customizing raised beds, planting holes, troughs and hydroponic systems.

  Plant size and yield are determined to a great extent by the development of the ro
ot system. Even plants that are receiving copious quantities of water and nutrients require enough room for their roots to grow and spread out in order to reach their full potential.

  When limited by law to growing just 6 or 10 plants, it is best to potentiate the size of each plant. Creating a large area of prime soil helps the roots penetrate easily and absorb nutrients. Figure that the diameter of the plant is usually the same size to about one-third larger than the diameter of the root ball. A plant with a 10' (3 m) diameter canopy will have a root spread of at least a 7' (2.25 m) diameter.

  In dry areas that require irrigation, providing water to plants this size can be an arduous task that requires a lot of water, so water conservation becomes a significant factor. Water that reaches the garden is used in one of these four ways.

  1.It is used by the plant. Plants use water for metabolic purposes in much the same way as animals, as a raw ingredient in photosynthesis or they transpire water vapor from the leaves in order to regulate temperature.

  2.It evaporates from the earth surface. Heat and sunlight speed the evaporation of water from the top surface levels.

  3.It drains from the root level deeper into the earth and becomes unavailable to the roots.

  4.It is delivered to the garden, but to areas where there are no roots. It eventually evaporates or sinks, unused.

  WATER SAVING STRATEGIES

  •Organic matter holds more water than the mineral portion of the soil. Adding compost, peat moss, coir, charcoal or other organic matter increases the soil’s capacity to retain water. This is especially helpful in fast draining sandy soils.