Begums, Thugs and White Mughals

by Fanny Parkes

  August 2nd – I went to the melā (Fair) held within the grounds at Papamhow. To this place we had sent the pinnace, Seagull, and on the 10th of the month my husband accompanied me two days’ sail on my voyage to revisit my relations in Fatehgar, after which he returned to Allahabad, leaving me and the great spaniel Nero to proceed together.

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  August 16th – Anchored at Maigong in rather a picturesque spot, close to a satī mound. By the side of the mound I saw the trunk of a female figure beautifully carved in stone. The head, arms and part of the legs had been broken off. They said it was the figure of a satī. At the back of the mound was a very ancient banyan tree; and the green hills and trees around were in all the freshness and luxuriance of the rainy season.

  The next morning, to my surprise, on going into the large cabin to breakfast, there was the figure of the headless satī covered with flowers, and at the spot where feet were not, offerings of gram, boiled rice, etc., had been placed by some of the Hindu dāndis. ‘How came you possessed of the satī?’ said I. ‘The memsāhib admired her, she is here.’ ‘Chorī-ke-mal nā’īch hazm hota’, ‘Stolen food never digests’, i.e., ‘Ill deeds never prosper, the poor people will grieve for the figure; tell the sarang to lower sail and return her to them’. ‘What words are these?’ replied the sarang, ‘we are miles from the spot; the satī has raised the wind’. The headless lady remained on board.

  As we passed the residence of Rājā Budannath Singh, he came out with his family on three elephants to pay his respects, thinking my husband was on board. The ladies were peeping from the house-top. The pinnace passed in full sail, followed by ten immense country boats full of magazine stores, and the cook boat. Being unable at night to cross those rivers, we anchored on the Oude side. I did not much admire being in the domains of the King of Lucknow instead of those of the Company; they are a very turbulent set, those men of Oude, and often pillage boats. The vicinity of the Rājā’s house was some protection. Rām Din had the matchlocks of the sipāhī guard fired off by way of bravado, and to show we were armed; the bamboos (lathīs) were laid in readiness, in case of attack: the watch was set and, after these precautions, the memsāhib and her dog went to rest very composedly.

  May 22nd – Not a breath of air! A sun intensely hot; the river is like a silver lake; but over its calm the vessel does not glide, for we are fast on a sandbank! Down come the fiery beams; several of the servants are ill of fever. Heaven help them; I doctor them all and have killed no one as yet! My husband will fret himself as he sits in the coolness of the house and thinks of me on the river. The vessel was in much difficulty this morning; the conductor of some magazine boats sent forty men and assisted her out of it. Lucky it was that chance meeting with the conductor in this Wilderness of Waters! One is sure to find someone to give aid in a difficulty, no doubt through the power of the satī, whom they still continue to adorn with fresh flowers.

  May 25th – After a voyage of fifteen days and a half I arrived at Cawnpore; coming up the reach of the Ganges in front of Cantonments a powerful wind was in our favour. The Seagull gallantly led the way in front of the twelve magazine boats: a very pretty sight for the Cawnporeans, especially as a squall overtook us, struck us all into picturesque attitudes, and sunk one of the magazine boats containing Rs 16,000 worth of new matchlocks. When the squall struck the little fleet they were thrown one against another, the sails shivered and the centre boat sank like a stone. Being an eye-witness of this scene, I was afterwards glad to be able to bear witness, at the request of the conductor, to his good conduct and the care he took of the boats when called upon by the magistrate of the place.

  May 28th – Anchored off Bittoor on the opposite side. I regretted being unable to see the place and Bajee Row, the ex-Peshwī who resides there on an allowance of eight lakh per annum. In 1818, he submitted to the Company, abdicated his throne, and retired to Bittoor for life. It would have given me pleasure to have seen these Mahrattas, but the channel of the stream forced me to go up the other side of the river.

  The Government wish the Bāiza Bāī to live at Benares on six lakh a year; but the spirited old lady will not become a pensioner, and refuses to quit Fatehgar. She has no inclination, although an Hindu, to be satisfied with ‘A little to eat and to live at Benares’, especially as at this place she is no great distance from her beloved Gwalior.

  September 2nd – A day of adventures. Until noon we battled against wind and stream: then came a fair wind which blew in severe squalls and storms. Such a powerful stream against us; but it was fine sailing and I enjoyed it very much. At times the squalls were enough to try one’s courage. We passed a vessel that had just broken her mast: the stream carried us back with violence, and we ran directly against her; she crushed in one of the Venetian windows of the cabin and with that damage we escaped. Two men raising the sail of another vessel were knocked overboard by the squall, and were carried away with frightful velocity, the poor creatures calling for help: the stream swept them past us and threw them on a sandbank – a happy escape!

  Anchored at Mehndī Ghāt; the moon was high and brilliant, the wind roaring around us, the stream, also, roaring in concert, like a distant waterfall; the night cold and clear, the stars bright and fine; but the appearance of the sky foretold more wind and squalls for the morrow. I had no idea, until I had tried it, how much danger there was on the Ganges during the height of the rains; in this vessel I think myself safe, but certainly I should not admire a small one. All the vessels today were at anchor; not a sail was to be seen but the white sails of the Seagull, and the dark ones of the cook boat, the latter creeping along the shore, her mānjhī following very unwillingly.

  My sarang says the quantity of sail I oblige him to carry during high winds has turned ‘his stomach upside down with alarm’.

  September 3rd – For some hours the next morning the gale continued so violently we could not quit the bank; a gentleman came on board and told me, by going up a stream called the Kalī Nadī I should escape the very powerful rush of the Ganges; that I could go up the Nadī twenty miles, and by a canal, cut in former days, re-enter the Ganges above.

  I asked him to show me the ruins of Kannauj; we put off; it was blowing very hard: at last we got out safely into the middle of the stream. About a mile higher up, we quitted the roaring and rushing waters of the Ganges, and entered the placid stream of the Kalī Nadī. Situated on a hill, most beautifully wooded with the winding river at its feet, stands the ancient city of Kannauj; the stream flowing through fine green meadows put me in mind of the Thames near Richmond. In the Ganges we could scarcely stem the current, even though the wind, which was fair, blew a gale; in the Nadī we furled every sail and were carried on at a good rate, merely by the force of the wind on the hull of the vessel, and the non-opposition of the gentle stream. My friend told me he had once thrown a net across the Kalī Nadī, near the entrance, and had caught one hundred and thirty-two great rhoee fish. On the hill above stands the tomb of Colonel—, who, when Lord Lake’s army were encamped here on their road to Delhi, attempted on horseback to swim the Nadī, and was drowned.

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  We anchored; and after tiffin, Mr M— accompanied me to see the tombs of two Mohammedan saints, on the top of the hill. Thence we visited a most singular Hindu building, of great antiquity, which still exists in a state of very tolerable preservation; the style of the building, one stone placed on the top of another, appeared to me more remarkable than any architecture I had seen in India.

  The fort, which is in ruins, is on a commanding spot; the view from it all around is beautiful. The people sometimes find ancient coins amongst the ruins, and jewels of high value; a short time ago, some pieces of gold, in form and size like thin bricks, were discovered by an old woman; they were very valuable. The Brahmans brought to us for sale square rupees, old rupees and copper coins; but none of them were Hindu; those of copper, or of silver, not being more than three hundred years old, were hardly worth having. I commissione
d them to bring me some gold coins, which are usually genuine and good. A regular trade is carried on at this place in the fabrication of silver and copper coins, and those of a mixed metal. The rose-water of Kannauj is considered very fine; it was brought, with other perfumed waters, for sale; also native preserves and pickles which were inferior. To this day the singers of Kannauj are famous. I am glad I have seen the ruins of this old city, which are well worth visiting; I did not go into the modern town; the scenery is remarkably pretty. I must revisit this place on my black horse; there are many parts too distant from each other for a walk; I returned very much fatigued to the pinnace. A great many Hindu idols, carved in stone, were scattered about in all directions, broken by the zeal of the Mohammedans when they became possessed of Kannauj. I shall carry some off should I return this way.

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  September 6th – After fighting with the stream all day, and tiring the crew to death on sandbanks and pulling against a terribly powerful current, we were forced back to within two miles of our last night’s anchorage; we have happily found a safe place to remain in during the night; these high banks, which are continually falling in, are very dangerous. Fortunately in the evening, assisted by a breeze, we arrived at the canal; and having passed through it quitted the Kalī Nadī, and anchored in the deep old bed of the Ganges.

  September 7th – With great difficulty we succeeded in bringing the pinnace to within three miles of Fatehgar, where I found a palanquin waiting for me; the river being very shallow, I quitted the vessel and, on my arrival at my friend’s house, sent down a number of men to assist in bringing her up in safety.

  CHAPTER XL

  THE MAHRATTA CAMP AND SCENES – IN THE ZENĀNA

  SEPTEMBER 8TH 1835 – A deputation arrived from her Highness the Bāiza Bāī claiming protection from the Agent to the Government on account of a mutiny in her camp. She was fearful of being murdered, as her house was surrounded by three hundred and fifty mutinous soldiers, armed with matchlocks and their palitas ready lighted. The mutineers demanded seven months pay, and finding it was not in her power to give it to them, they determined to have recourse to force, and seized her treasurer, her paymaster, and four other officers. These unfortunate men they had made prisoners for seven days, keeping them secured to posts and exposed the whole day to the sun, and only giving them a little sherbet to drink. The Agent to the Government, having called out the troops, marched down with them to the Mahratta Camp, where they seized the guns.

  The mutineers would not come to terms or lay down their arms. The troops spent the night in the Camp; at daybreak they charged into the zenāna compound, killed eight mutineers, and wounded nine: the guns were fired at the Mahratta horsemen, who were outside; after which the men laid down their arms and tranquillity was restored.

  The magistrate of the station, who had gone in with the troops, was engaged with two of the mutineers when all three fell into a well; a Mahratta from above having aimed his spear at him, an officer struck the weapon aside and killed the assailant; the spear glanced off and only inflicted a slight wound. The moment Colonel J— charged the mutineers in the zenāna compound, they murdered their prisoners, the treasurer and the paymaster, in cold blood; the other four officers escaped in the tumult. The greater part of her Highness’s troops being disaffected, they could not be trusted to quell the mutiny; she was therefore compelled to ask for assistance. It was feared her troops, which amounted to eighteen hundred, might attempt to plunder the city and station and be off to Gwalior; and there being only two hundred of the Company’s troops, and three guns at Fatehgar, the military were sent for from other stations and a large body of police called out. The Bāiza Bāī despatched a lady several times to say she wished me to visit her; this was during the time she was a prisoner in her house, surrounded by the mutineers with their matches lighted. The agent for the Government would not allow me to go, lest they should seize and keep me a prisoner with the Bāī’s officers. I was therefore obliged to send word I could not obey the commands of her Highness on that account.

  Emissaries from Gwalior are at the bottom of all this. The camp was in great ferment yesterday: it would be of no consequence if we had a few more troops at the station; but two hundred infantry are sad odds against eighteen hundred men, one thousand of whom are horsemen; and they have three guns also.

  September 17th – Infantry have come in from Mynpooree and cavalry from Cawnpore, therefore every thing is safe in case the Mahrattas should mutiny again.

  September 24th – The Governor-General’s agent allowed me to accompany him to the camp. He took some armed horsemen from the police as an escort in case of disturbance. The Bāiza Bāī received me most kindly, as if I were an old friend. I paid my respects and almost immediately quitted the room, as affairs of state were to be discussed. The Gaja Rājā took me into a pretty little room, which she had just built on the top of the house as a sleeping-room for herself. Her chārpāī (bed) swung from the ceiling; the feet were of gold, and the ropes by which it swung were covered with red velvet and silver bands. The mattress, stuffed with cotton, was covered with red and blue velvet: the cases of three large pillows were of gold and red kimkhwab; and there were a number of small flat round pillows covered with velvet. The counterpane was of gold and red brocade. In this bed she sleeps, and is constantly swung during her repose. She was dressed in black gauze and gold, with a profusion of jewellery and some fresh flowers I had brought for her were in her hair. She invited me to sit on the bed, and a lady stood by swinging us. The Gaja Rājā has a very pretty figure and looked most fairylike on her decorated bed. When the affairs of state had been settled, we returned to the Bāī. Rose-water, pān, and atr of roses having been presented, I took my leave.

  September 28th – I was one of a party who paid a visit of state to her Highness. Nothing remarkable occurred. As we were on the point of taking our departure, the Bāī said she had heard of the beauty of my pinnace and would visit it the next morning. This being a great honour, I said I would be in attendance and would have the vessel anchored close to the Bāī’s own ghāt, at which place she bathes in the holy Ganges. On my return home, a number of people were set hard to work, to fit the vessel for the reception of the Bāī. Every thing European was removed, tables, chairs, etc. The floors of the cabins were covered with white cloth and a gaddī placed in each for her Highness.

  September 29th – The vessel was decorated with a profusion of fresh flowers; she was drawn up to the ghāt, close to a flight of steps; and the canvas walls of tents were hung around her on every side, so that no spectators could see within. The sailors all quitted her, and she was then ready to receive the ladies of the Mahratta camp. Although I was at the spot at four o’clock, the Bāī and hundreds of her followers were there before me. She accompanied me on board with all her ladies, and on seeing such a crowd in the vessel, asked if the numbers would not sink her. The Bāī admired the pinnace very much; and observing the satī which stood in one corner of the cabin, covered with flowers, I informed her Highness I had brought the headless figure to eat the air on the river; that Ganges water and flowers were daily offered her; that her presence was fortunate, as it brought an easterly wind. The Bāī laughed; and, after conversing for an hour she quitted the vessel, and returned to her apartment on the ghāt. The Gaja Rājā and her ladies went into the inner cabin; Appa Sāhib, the Bāī’s son-in-law, came on board with his followers, the vessel was unmoored, and they took a sail on the river. The scene was picturesque. Some hundreds of Mahratta soldiers were dispersed in groups on the high banks amongst the trees; their elephants, camels, horses and native carriages standing near the stone ghāts, and by the side of white temples. The people from the city were there in crowds to see what was going forward. On our return from the excursion on the river, I accompanied the Gaja Rājā to the Bāī; and, having made my salam, returned home, not a little fatigued with the exertion of amusing my guests. During the time we were on the water, Appa Sāhib played various Hindusta
ni and Mahratta airs on the sitar. It must have been a great amusement to the zenāna ladies, quite a gaiety for them, and a variety in their retired mode of life. They were all in their holiday dresses, jewels and ornaments. Some wore dresses of bright yellow, edged with red, with black cashmere shawls thrown over their shoulders; this costume was very picturesque. The Gaja Rājā wore a dress of black and gold, with a yellow satin tight body beneath it; enormous pearls in profusion, ornaments of gold on her arms, and silver ornaments on her ankles and toes; slippers of crimson and gold.

  October 2nd – The Ganges at Farrukhabad is so full of sandbanks, and so very shallow, that fearing if I detained the pinnace I might have some chance of being unable to get her down to Cawnpore, I sent her off with half the servants to that place to await my arrival; I shall go dāk in a palanquin, and the rest of the people can float down in the cook boat.

  October 7th – I called on the Bāī; and while she was employed on state affairs retired with the Gaja Rājā to the pretty little room before mentioned. There I found a Hindu idol, dressed in cloth of gold and beads, lying on the floor on a little red and purple velvet carpet. Two other idols were in niches at the end of the room. The idol appeared to be a plaything, a doll: I suppose, it had not been rendered sacred by the Brahmans. An idol is of no value until a Brahman dip it, with divers prayers and ceremonies, into the Ganges; when this ceremony has been performed, the spirit of the particular deity represented by the figure enters the idol. This sort of baptism is particularly expensive, and a source of great revenue to the Brahmans. The church dues fall as heavily on the poor Hindu as on the people of England; nevertheless, the heads of the Hindu church do not live in luxury like the Bishops.