Bike Repair & Maintenance For Dummies®
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You can find the steps for overhauling pedals in Chapter 13.
Overhauling the bottom bracket
The bottom bracket is the last bearing-dependent component you have to deal with in your annual maintenance. The bottom bracket is designed to stand up to all the hours of rigorous pedaling that your legs can put out, but even so, it’s a good idea to overhaul it once a year.
You may want to leave this task to your local bike shop, especially because it calls for some special hand tools, may entail a lot of force to loosen, and requires the application of the proper amount of torque when tightening. If that isn’t a hurdle for you, follow the instructions in Chapter 13 for inspecting, cleaning, lubing, and reassembling the bottom bracket.
Cleaning the rear derailleur
Where dirt and grime builds up most on a rear derailleur is on the two jockey wheels. The focus of your annual cleaning of the rear derailleur should be on cleaning the overall derailleur, without disassembling it, and cleaning the two jockey wheels.
Whenever you remove the rear derailleur, try to do so without breaking the chain. You can do this by removing the bolt holding the bottom pulley wheel in place and loosening the bolt holding the top pulley. This will allow you to separate the S-shaped cage and slide out the chain. After the chain is removed, you can detach the entire derailleur for a thorough degreasing and lubrication before you reattach it.
For details on cleaning your rear derailleur, refer to Chapter 14.
Replacing the brake pads
The only thing between you and your next emergency stop is a thin rubber pad, so we highly recommend changing your brake pads every year. Brake pads are easy to inspect, cheap to purchase, and simple to install, so don’t wait for the annual maintenance period to change them if they’re worn — keep an eye on them year-round and take caution to make sure pads are properly fit and securely mounted.
As soon as the grooves that are cut into the pads start wearing down, replace them.
For instructions on changing brake pads, turn to Chapter 8.
Replacing the handlebar grips or tape
After a year’s worth of riding, your bike may start looking a little ragged. The annual maintenance of your bike is your chance not just to get it back in working order but to give it back some of that glow that’s lost after many hard miles of working for you.
Replacing dirty or torn handlebar grips or tapes is a simple way to improve the appearance of your bike. You can add a different color of tape or change the style of grips to meet your fancy.
To replace handlebar grips or tape, turn to Chapter 15.
Waxing the frame
Another nice touch when it comes to improving the look of your bike, while protecting its finish and preventing rust, is to wax the frame. If you’re overhauling many of your bike’s components at the same time, you’ll have detached most of the parts from the frame, making cleaning and waxing the frame a simple task.
Although there are waxes designed specifically for higher-end paint finishes on more expensive bikes, car wax works just fine.
Checking your accessories
The annual maintenance check is a good time to inspect accessories for your bike. Verify that your emergency tool kit has everything it needs (see Chapter 16). For example, if you’ve patched a number of flats over the year, you may need to buy another patch kit. If you’ve used your spare inner tube, you should replace it.
If you have lights on your bike, replace the batteries. Do the same for your onboard computer. It’s better to replace batteries now than discover that they don’t work when you’re caught out on the road after dark.
Part V
The Part of Tens
In this part . . .
In this part, we tell you some practical things you can do to improve safety, comfort, and performance on your next ride. For safety, we offer an inspection checklist of things you should look for before you ride. To increase riding comfort, you find ten steps to make sure your bike fits your body size and riding style. Finally, if you’re looking for an extra performance edge, we provide ten recommendations for cutting weight and improving riding efficiency.
Chapter 18
Ten (Or So) Steps to Take before You Ride
In This Chapter
Recognizing the rules of the road
Adjusting the handlebars and saddle
Checking your tire pressure, brakes, and wheels
Donning helmet and gloves
Making sure people can see you
Bringing your toolkit and emergency gear
One of the themes of this book is that repair and maintenance is not just about keeping your bike in great shape and extending its life, but also making sure you stay safe. Taking a couple of minutes before you ride to prepare for your trip and to inspect your bike will go a long way in increasing the odds that you and your bike return home in one piece. In this chapter, we cover the ten (or so) top steps you can take to reduce strain on your body and improve safety while your ride.
Take a Road Safety Skills Class
The League of American Bicyclists offers road-skills classes throughout the United States to make bicyclists aware of the hazards they face sharing the roadways. The classes teach you how to avoid collisions with automobiles and dodge road hazards. You can find a class near you at www.bikeleague.org/programs/education. Contact the League of American Bicyclists at 1612 K St. NW, Suite 800, Washington, DC 20006-2850 (phone: 202-822-1333; e-mail: bikeleague@bikeleague.org">bikeleague@bikeleague.org; Web: www.bikeleague.org).
Adjust the Handlebars
If you’re going to be spending any amount of time on your bike, you should try to make it as comfortable an experience as possible. You can do a number of things to improve the riding experience, and one of these things is to adjust the handlebars.
For road bikes, the old-school approach to positioning the handlebars was to have the handlebar ends run parallel to the top tube in the frame. Although being bent over like the Hunchback of Notre Dame may be good for aerodynamics, having your weight supported on outstretched arms is not very comfortable for everyday riding.
To position your handlebars for a more enjoyable ride, set them such that they leave your back at a 45-degree angle (see Figure 18-1). You may need to rotate the handlebars within the clamp that holds them or change or adjust the stem as described in Chapter 15. With the proper adjustment, you can ensure that the weight of your upper body will be distributed between your torso and your arms.
Figure 18-1: The proper handlebar angle.
Another consideration for the handlebars is the position of the brake levers. You want to be able to squeeze the levers while your hands are resting comfortably on the handlebar. If you have to reach or curl your wrists to use the brakes, they aren’t positioned properly.
Adjust the Saddle
Just as important as adjusting the handlebars is finding the right position for your saddle. If your saddle is set too high or too low, you’ll lose efficiency as you pedal and may even cause strain or injury to your body. We can’t tell you how often we see people riding with an improperly positioned saddle — in many cases, a saddle set too low with the person’s legs in a bow-legged position, which causes strain on the knees.
You know that your saddle is set to the right height if you can just barely place your toes and the balls of your feet on the ground when you sit on the saddle (see Figure 18-2). Go for the maximum leg extension without locking out your knees or bobbing your hips in order to reach low. Pain in the back of the kneecaps results from seats too low; pain in the front, from seats too high. Your leg should be bent at a slight angle when your foot is on the pedal at its lowest position.
Figure 18-2: The proper saddle height.
Another adjustment you can make is the fore and aft (ho
w far back or forward the seat is positioned). If your seat is too far to the rear, you’ll be stretching to reach the bars, which puts strain on your back and knees. (See Chapter 9 for how to adjust fore and aft.)
Check Tire Pressure
Before you set off for a ride, make sure you check your tire pressure. If your tires aren’t properly inflated, riding will be less efficient and you’ll be at greater risk of damaging your rims and getting flats.
When checking tire pressure, it isn’t enough to pinch the tires to feel whether they’re firm — tires that are under-inflated feel very similar to those with the proper amount of pressure. The most accurate and surefire way of checking tire pressure is to use a tire-pressure gauge. When filling tires with air, pump them to the recommended pressure listed on the sidewall of the tire.
Check the Brakes
Checking your brakes takes only a few seconds, and it can be one of the most important things you do before setting off on a ride.
Start by visually inspecting the brake pads for wear; confirm that there are still grooves cut into the pads. When these grooves wear away, it’s time to change the pads. Also, check to make sure that the brake pads are not rubbing against the wheels. There should be between 1 to 2 millimeters of space between the pads and the rim.
After visually inspecting the brake pads, give the brake levers a strong squeeze. The pads should firmly grip the wheel. (See Chapter 8 for instructions on making adjustments to the brakes.)
You should also be able to apply the breaks without having to pull the lever more than halfway back to the handlebars — any more than that, and you could be putting yourself in a dangerous position when it comes time to brake.
Look for Looseness
The rattling of components or extra movement in parts of your bike could be a sign that something is starting to come apart. If you ignore these signs, you could end up causing damage to your bike or find yourself on the end of a bike that decides to disassemble itself while you’re riding it.
To test your bike for looseness:
Lift the front wheel up 2 to 3 inches, and drop it back down. Do the same to the rear wheel using the seat to lift it. Listen for anything rattling.
Check for looseness in the stem and handlebars by putting the front wheel between your legs and moving the handlebars from side to side (see Figure 18-3).
Figure 18-3: Checking for looseness in the handlebars and stem.
Examine the rest of the frame by straddling the frame with both legs and trying to move the bike forward and backward while squeezing the brakes. If the bike moves during either of these two tests, it could indicate looseness. If anything shakes or rattles, it could mean that an attachment like a water-bottle cage or a rack for carrying panniers (bags) is loose.
Check the crank arms by grabbing one in each hand and trying to wiggle them from side to side. If there is some play in the crank arms, it could be time for a bottom bracket adjustment.
Check the Wheels
Take a moment to check the wheels before you depart on your next trip. Wheels are the only parts of the bike that are in contact with the road; ensuring that they’re secure and in good working order will help ensure that you yourself don’t come in contact with the road.
To inspect the wheels:
Examine the quick-release levers to confirm that they’re securely fastened in the closed position. Open and close the levers once to confirm that they’re tight. If you find that they’re loose, open the lever, turn the nut opposite the lever a quarter-turn, and re-close the lever. Continue this procedure until properly tightened.
Grab the frame with one hand and, with the other hand, give each wheel a shake from side to side to check for looseness (see Figure 18-4). There should little or no amount of play in the hubs. Any significant movement could be a sign that there is an issue with the wheel.
While you’re grabbing the wheel, pluck its spokes. Like a string on a fine-tuned harp, they should respond with a consistent twang indicating they’re of similar tension.
Figure 18-4: Checking for looseness in the wheels.
Lift the wheel off the ground and give it a spin to see that it doesn’t wobble and that the rim doesn’t contact the brake pads at any point. If the wheel doesn’t spin straight, it may need to be trued. Contact with the brake pads could also mean that the wheel isn’t properly seated in the dropouts. (See Chapter 7 if you have to make adjustments to your wheels.)
Grab Your Toolkit
Although the probability is that your next ride will be uneventful, don’t let that be a reason to hop on your bike without grabbing your toolkit. Murphy’s Law has a devious way of striking in the least expected moment, so don’t tempt fate by leaving your toolkit behind. (For more details on creating a tool kit and what it consists of, turn to Chapter 16.)
Most important for your toolkit is a patch kit to repair flats, tire levers to remove tires, and some Allen wrenches, screwdrivers, and spoke wrenches. For safety, remember to pack a rag or some moist wipes with your kit so your greasy hands don’t slip off the bars after a roadside repair. Plus, you won’t gross out your friends when you stop for a snack and have to put food in your mouth.
Wear Your Helmet and Gloves
Wearing a helmet is one of the smartest things you can do to improve safety while you bike. A stylish, light, adjustable, comfortable, and ventilated helmet doesn’t cost much money — and it protects your cranium (which is pretty much priceless).
If you’ve been in an accident that caused an impact to your helmet, or if you’ve had the helmet for more than a few years, consider replacing it. The helmet’s foam, which acts as a shock absorber, breaks down over time or after an accident and becomes less effective.
When Dennis isn’t riding, a pair of biking gloves sits inside his helmet. Gloves significantly reduce vibration, which comes from the bike being in contact with the road. Gloves may not make much difference on a short ride, but you’ll be thankful that your hands aren’t numb after a couple hours on your bike. Gloves will also protect your hands in the event of a crash when the instinct is to use your hands to brace a fall. Gloves come in all shapes and sizes; Dennis likes the comfort of those with gel in the palms.
Improve Your Visibility
We can’t emphasize enough how important it is to make yourself visible to others, especially if you’re going to be riding on the road. Drivers are faced with many distractions — cellphones, GPS devices, iPods, food, screaming kids — and if you blend into the background, you increase the chances that you’ll be on the wrong end of a close encounter with a 4,000-pound bundle of steel and rubber.
Here are some ways you can improve your visibility:
Wear brightly colored clothing — even during daytime biking.
Make sure that your wheels and pedals have reflectors.
Use reflective arm and leg bands.
Keep a bright white front light and a flashing LED rear light for when you’re caught out during dusk or for nighttime riding.
Make sure you check the batteries in your lights. Although battery-powered lights are bright, they fade fast. Keep a spare set of batteries in your house so you never leave home without lights that work.
Stock Your Emergency Gear
Although most of your bike rides will be pleasingly uneventful, you never know when an emergency may strike. You can end up getting lost, having an accident, getting caught in a sudden storm, or becoming fatigued. Be prepared for the unexpected by having an emergency pack of supplies available.
Before you head out, always fill your pannier bag with the following items:
Your cellphone
Identification (such as your driver’s license)
Money
Energy bars
A rain jacket
Sunglasses
; If you don’t want to have to carry your wallet with you on your rides, check out RoadID (www.roadid.com), where you can buy a wrist band with your name and emergency-contact information printed on it, as well as a shoe pouch (in which you can put money, your house key, an ID, and so on). You can get a wrist band or a shoe pouch for about $20 each (as of this writing).
Chapter 19
Ten Considerations in Fitting Your Bike
In This Chapter
Looking at the length of the crank arm
Choosing the right gearing
Paying attention to all things saddle
Finding the right frame size
Handling handlebars
In the course of maintaining and repairing your bike, you need to consider how any adjustments you make might affect the way your bike fits you. The better a bike is fitted or tailored to your body size, the more enjoyable your riding experience will be. A properly fitted bike leads to more efficient riding, more power delivered to the pedals, greater comfort, and less chance of soreness or injury.
When you first purchase a bike, you should work with a fit specialist at the bike shop to make sure that the bike you buy fits your body. But you can — and should — also focus on fit as you maintain and repair your bike.
Fit is not an exact science. Yes, there are some high-tech measurement and sizing machines, fitting systems, charts, and formulas. But put two experts in a room, and they’ll come up with a different set of measurements. Our best advice is to follow the basic principles and tips in this chapter and throughout this book and consult with your local bike shop. If you do that, you should be able to get a fairly good fit with your bike — and your back, shoulders, arms, legs, and hands will thank you for miles to come.
Considering Crank Arm Length
The crank arm determines the circumference in which the pedals rotate. The larger the crank arm, the larger the circumference in which you’ll be pedaling. A longer crank arm gives you more leverage when you pedal. Riding with a longer crank arm is kind of like being in a lower gear, an important benefit if you’re doing a lot of climbing. On the other hand, a shorter crank arm comes in handy if you pedal at a high cadence (for example, if you’re racing).