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Napa at Last Light

Page 30

by James Conaway

Anheuser–Bush, 161, 185, 187

  Apocalypse Now, 13–14

  Applied Computer Solutions, 155

  Aristotle, 9

  Armstrong, Neil, 88

  Army Corps of Engineers, U.S., 29, 228

  Aspen, Colo., 28, 104, 107

  assistant managers, 261–62

  Atlas Peak, 83, 193

  Atlas Peak Road, 212

  Auberge du Soliel, 181, 209, 271

  Auction Napa Valley, 23

  Australia, 15, 36, 50, 52, 89

  Backen, Howard, 155

  Barrett, Jim, 16

  Battuello, Lois, 204

  Beaulieu Vineyard, 14–15, 40, 67, 87

  comparisons between Inglenook and, 14

  Heublein’s acquisition of, 15

  Bechtel family, 273

  Beckstoffer, Andy, 35–47, 62, 194, 237

  background of, 36–38

  Boisset’s relationship with, 45–46, 286

  Davies’s relationship with, 118

  Davis issue and, 165–66

  and definition of wineries, 241

  and expansion of Schramsberg, 115, 117–18

  farmers and, 39–41, 285–86

  farm workers and, 38–40, 42

  finances and, 35–41, 43, 118, 146

  grape boycott and, 38

  physical appearance of, 36–37, 43

  politics of, 42, 165

  Raymond and, 44–46, 52, 57, 286

  To Kalon and, 35–37, 109

  water concerns and, 219, 225, 249

  Bell Canyon Reservoir, 48, 141, 160, 162, 167, 271

  Beringer Vineyards, 15, 67, 70, 98, 109

  Berkeley, Calif., 42, 112

  Berry, Wendell, 9

  Big Sur, 23, 75

  Blake, Phil, 226, 247

  Blue Nile, The (Moorehead), 21

  Boisset, Jean–Charles (JCB), 44–57, 60

  Beckstoffer’s relationship with, 45–46, 286

  childhood of, 50–51

  and county code enforcement against Raymond, 56–57

  finances and, 45–46, 51–53, 55

  house purchased by, 55–56

  marriage of, 46, 55

  Mondavi and, 45, 48, 53–54

  Napa Gras celebration and, 49

  No. 3 of, 49

  physical appearance of, 51, 56

  Raymond’s outflow and, 52

  Red Room of, 45, 48, 52

  sparkling wines of, 48

  water concerns and, 219

  and wine and art, 53–54

  wine marketing and, 70

  Boisset–Gallo house, 56

  Bond, 24, 169

  Bonné, Jon, 8, 278

  Bordeauxs, Bordeaux, xxv, 12, 14, 16, 39, 87, 187, 277

  finances and, 36

  Harlan and, 22–24

  Parker’s trips to, 6–7

  Raymond and, 50

  To Kalon and, 35–36

  Vinexpo and, 54–55

  Brian (Dunn’s son–in–law), 133–35

  Britton, Delbert, 75

  Brown, Jerry, 205, 207, 210–11, 238, 285

  Bruno Ranch, 276–77

  Buena Vista Winery, 45, 49, 52

  Burgundy, xxv, 31, 181

  Boisset and, 44–45, 51, 55

  Harlan and, 24

  Raymond and, 50

  Burns, Gordon, 148–49

  Bush, George W., 27, 61, 145, 183

  Butler, R. W., 269–70

  Buttes Gas & Oil, 27

  cabernet sauvignon, 14, 34, 47–50, 59, 83, 94, 98, 113, 126, 190, 220–21, 267, 277, 280

  alcohol content of, xxv

  bartering with, 139

  Dunn and, 130–32, 134–35, 139, 144–45, 154

  finances and, 8, 36, 48, 106, 120, 130

  fires and, 130, 139

  HALL and, 178

  Howell Mountain and, 139, 144–45, 154, 157–58

  Martha’s Vineyard and, 27, 36, 225

  Newton and, 216, 218

  Raymond and, 45, 47, 49

  Rutherford and, 220, 225

  To Kalon and, 35, 37, 41, 272

  wine evaluations and, 8

  Cakebread, Jack, 63, 66, 211, 237

  California:

  comparisons between wines of France and, xxiv

  droughts in, 188, 203, 281

  effect of wine on landscape of, 7

  environmental regulations of, 91

  fires in, 273, 281–83, 285–87

  politics in, 207

  population of, 273

  preservationism in, 190

  prominence and flourishing of wine in, xxiv, xxvi

  rain in, 203, 285

  water concerns in, 238, 255, 273

  California, University of, (UC):

  at Berkeley, 21, 182

  at Davis, 4, 88, 92, 132, 135, 182, 277

  at Los Angeles, 51

  California Preservation Foundation, 190–91

  Calistoga, Calif., 16, 40, 78, 104, 118, 133, 178, 193, 246, 270, 285

  Cannon, Rich, 192

  Capell Creek:

  Walt project and, 182, 188–89, 194, 209

  Wilsons’ home on, 161, 185–87, 236

  Catholic Church, 14

  Caymus Vineyards, 132, 134, 207, 226, 259–60

  Champagne, xxv, 84, 89, 92, 216, 265–66

  changelings, 266–68

  chardonnay, xxv, 16, 49, 52, 83, 98, 148, 216, 220–21, 265, 278

  Charles Krug Winery, 15–16, 60, 143, 190

  Charlottesville, Va., xxiii

  Château Haut–Brion, xxv, 5, 16

  Château Lafite Rothschild, 181

  Château Latour, xxv, 24, 39

  Château Margaux, 14, 22, 39, 221

  Chateau Montelena, 11, 16, 221, 267

  Château Mouton Rothschild, 6, 16

  Château Petrus, 5, 52–53

  Chateau Ste. Michelle, 16

  Chateau Souverain, 97

  Chavez, Cesar, 38, 40, 42

  Cheney, Dick, 27

  Chiles House, 42

  Chiles Valley, 158–59, 161, 167, 236

  Chinese, China, 8, 79, 199, 263, 272

  employed at Schamsberg, 89–90

  Christaller, Walter, 269–70

  Christian Brothers, 15

  Christina (Sierra Club member), 160–61

  Circle Oaks, Calif.:

  finances and, 191–92

  Home Association of, 191

  Walt project and, 189–92

  Cities, 103

  Citizens United decision, 209, 232

  Citizens’ Voice, 42, 68, 192

  and expansion of Davies Vineyards, 161

  and expansion of Schramsberg, 110, 115, 118, 121–22

  finances and, 110, 115, 118

  climate change, see global warming

  Clinton, Bill, 174, 178, 208–9

  Clinton, Hillary, 208–9

  Coates, Rick:

  Cal Fire and, 161, 163–64, 169

  Davis issue and, 163, 168–70

  physical appearance of, 163

  water concerns and, 219

  Wildlake and, 164, 170

  Compleat Winemaker, The, 98

  Concept of a Tourist Area Cycle of Evolution, The (Butler), 269–70

  Conn Creek, 285

  Conn Creek Road, 42

  Constellation, 12, 232

  Coombs family, 166

  Coombsville, Calif., 61, 67–68, 92

  Copia, 53

  Coppola, Francis Ford, 97, 116

  Inglenook acquired by, 12–14

  Corley, Jay, xxiii–xxv

  Corton–Charlemagne, 106

  Côte de Nuits, 49

  Crabb, Hamilton, 35

  Crane, George Belden, 119–20

  Culinary Institute of America, 15

  D, 178–80, 182, 184

  Dallas Cowboys, 174, 180

  Dallas Morning News, 180, 195

  Daniel, John, Jr., 12–13, 116–17, 237

  Davies, Bill, 78–82, 84–86, 88–93, 121

  mother’s d
eath and, 85–86

  Davies, Emrys, 93, 121

  Davies, Gayle, 85–86

  Davies, Huey, 93, 121

  Davies, Hugh, 77–94

  Beckstoffer’s relationship with, 118

  childhood of, 79–80, 82, 84, 86, 88–90

  and Christmastime at Schramsberg, 83–84

  education of, 91–92

  Ellsworth’s relationship with, 115

  environmentalism of, 91–92

  and expansion of Davies Vineyards, 161

  and expansion of Schramsberg, 94, 107, 110, 114–15, 117–19, 121–22

  finances and, 122

  injuries of, 90

  marriages of, 92–93

  mother’s death and, 85–86

  mother’s illness and, 77–78, 80–81, 83–85, 121

  Napa’s agricultural preserve and, 78

  parents’ winemaking and, 88

  physical appearance and demeanor of, 78

  small winery regulations and, 100

  and tree cutting and stream setbacks, 240–41

  winemaking of, 92

  Davies, Jack, 11, 60, 81–82, 84–92, 110, 116–18, 121, 240–41, 271

  background of, 81

  Daniel’s relationship with, 116–17

  death of, 78, 84–86

  environmentalism of, 91

  and expansion of Schramsberg, 94

  rescued from wine tank, 87

  winemaking of, 88

  Wine Train and, 113–14

  Davies, Jamie, 60, 80–92, 110, 116, 240–41, 271

  and Christmastime at Schramsberg, 83–84

  death of, 85–86

  environmentalism of, 91

  illness of, 77–78, 80–81, 83–85, 121

  Schramsberg’s gardens and, 90

  on white elephants, 11

  winemaking of, 88

  Davies, John, 78–82, 84–86, 88–92, 115, 121

  Davies, Lily, 92

  Davies, Monique Nelson, 78, 80–81, 92–93

  and Christmastime at Schramsberg, 83–84

  and expansion of Schramsberg, 114, 121

  small winery regulations and, 100

  Davies, Nelson, 93, 121

  Davies Vineyards:

  expansion of, 110, 115–17, 119, 161

  •water concerns and, 219

  Davis, Mike, 155–70, 226

  Cal Fire and, 158, 162–63, 167–70

  education of, 155

  finances and, 155–56, 158, 162–63, 169

  Howell Mountain and, 156–57, 160, 165

  Howell Mountain cabernet and, 157–58

  physical appearance of, 155–57

  Sevier barn of, 157

  Wildlake and, 157–60, 162, 165–66, 169–70, 236

  Davis, Sandy, 155

  Davis Estates, 155–58, 161–62, 169

  Dean & DeLuca, 118

  Declaration of Independence, xxiv, 170

  Deep Root:

  on environmentalists, 200, 210–11

  finances and, 197–201, 210

  on Halls, 199–201, 210

  and tree cutting and stream setbacks, 198–200, 287

  on Walt project, 199–201, 210

  on water rights, 198

  Defenders of East Napa Watersheds, 191–92, 194

  DeLoach Vineyards, 49, 52

  Democrats, 174, 195, 251

  Napa elections and, 207–8

  Diamond Mountain, 107, 192

  Dillon, Diane, 149, 241

  Disney, Walt, 54

  Dodd, Bill, 207, 211, 251

  Domaine Chandon, 98

  Dominus, 52–53

  Dommen, Debra, 246, 254

  General Plan and, 61–63, 65, 70

  dot–commers, dot–com, 233, 262, 279

  Dunn, Jenny, 142, 150

  Dunn, Kara, 135

  Dunn, Krissy, 143, 145, 164

  Dunn, Kristina, 133

  Dunn, Lori, 132

  daughter’s death and, 142, 150

  finances and, 145

  fires and, 129–30, 133, 135, 154

  home of, 129–31, 133–35, 141, 165

  physical appearance of, 133

  Raycrow and, 150

  Wildlake and, 133, 141, 143, 145, 150

  Dunn, Mike, 142, 145

  fires and, 131, 135

  Dunn, Randy, 127, 160, 212, 260, 276, 281–83

  Beckstoffer’s relationship with, 165

  bulldozer of, 131, 135

  daughter’s death and, 142, 150

  Davis issue and, 163–65, 167, 169–70

  development and, 154–55

  education of, 132

  finances and, 143–45, 147–49, 238

  fire engine of, 138–39

  fires and, 129–40, 283

  Hackett’s relationship with, 236

  home of, 129–31, 133–41, 150, 165

  machine shop and shed of, 135–36

  petite sirah and, 137, 139–40

  physical appearance of, 130–31, 134, 150

  preservationism of, 143, 145, 150

  Raycrow and, 150–51

  salsa making of, 164–65

  son–in–law of, 133–35

  and tree cutting and stream setbacks, 219, 236, 238, 242

  Wildlake and, 141–48, 150, 164–65, 236, 281–82

  Dunn Vineyards, 130–32, 135–42, 169, 277–78

  caves at, 136–38

  finances and, 132, 144–45

  fires and, 131–32, 135–40, 287

  Galloni’s visit to, 136, 139, 141

  Howell Mountain cabernet of, 139, 144–45, 157–58

  reputation of, 132

  Wildlake and, 144

  Dunn–Wildlake Preserve, 149

  Dutch Henry Canyon, 141

  E. & J. Gallo Winery, 107

  Eisele, Liesel, 159–60, 163, 167, 185, 236

  Eisele, Volker, xx, 42–43, 65, 159–63, 167, 185, 194, 241–42

  cheese detested by, 161–62

  and definition of wineries, 43, 241

  Hackett’s relationship with, 234, 236

  stroke of, 159, 161

  Eisele Estate, 162

  Elles, Sandy, 242

  Ellis, Joseph, xxv

  Ellsworth, Geoff, 95–102, 105, 109–12

  childhood of, 98

  Davies’s relationship with, 115

  and definition of agriculture, 68–70, 95–96

  education of, 99

  and expansion of Schramsberg, 107, 110–11, 115–16, 119

  finances and, 98–99

  physical appearance of, 95, 161, 175

  referendum of, 101–2, 115

  small winery regulation and, 95–97, 100–102

  Walt project and, 193

  water concerns and, 219

  winemaking of, 98

  Ellsworth, Phoebe, 98

  Ellsworth, Robert, 98

  Emperor of Wine, The (McCoy), 6–7

  Empting, Cory, 29–30

  Environmental Protection Agency, 22, 240

  Environmental Quality Act, Calif., 69, 235

  Ericson, Sandy, 100–102

  Fairfield, Calif., 87, 161

  Farm Bureau, 68, 194, 209, 212

  future and, 273

  Land Use Committee of, 60–63, 65, 67, 69, 247

  and tree cutting and stream setbacks, 237, 241–42, 245, 247–48, 286

  farmers, xxiv, 15, 44, 62, 64, 66, 68, 241

  Beckstoffer and, 39–41, 285–86

  finances of, 40, 204, 251

  Frog’s Leap and, 223

  Matthiasson and, 277, 279

  Raymond brothers and, 47–48

  Farmers Guild, 279

  farmhands:

  Beckstoffer and, 38–40, 42

  Chinese as, 89–90

  finances and, 98–99

  Frog’s Leap and, 223

  grape boycott and, 38

  Mexicans as, 39, 79, 87, 90, 207

  Far Niente Winery, 12, 19, 63

  Far Side of Eden, The (Conaway), xx


  Faulkner, William, xix

  Ferber, Edna, xix

  Fetzer Vineyards, 223

  First Republic Bank, 182

  Fish and Wildlife Department, Calif., 242

  Flagey–Échezeaux, 50

  Forestry and Fire Protection Department, Calif. (Cal Fire), 132, 161–64, 281

  and Coates, 161, 163–64, 169

  and Davis issue, 158, 162–63, 167–70

  Forests Forever, 241, 252–53

  Forest Unlimited, 161, 252–53

  Forman, Ric, xx, 11, 24, 116

  Forman Vineyard, 277–78

  Foster’s, 15, 52

  Frank, Konstantin, 220, 222, 225

  Freemark Abbey, 11, 16

  French, France, xx, 17, 36, 47–48, 106, 132, 138, 181, 217, 221–22,

  Boisset and, 44–45, 48, 50–53, 55

  comparisons between wines of California and, xxiv, 17, 39, 89, 225

  Raymond and, 49

  French Laundry, 105, 265–66, 271

  Fresno, Calif., 87, 204

  Fresno State University, 204–5

  Frog’s Leap Winery, 220, 222–24

  Fukuoka, Masanobu, 19, 29

  Galbraith, Alan, 161, 166–67

  Galbraith, John Kenneth, 166

  Gallo, Gina, 54–56

  house purchased by, 55–56

  marriage of, 46, 55

  Gallo, Julio, 46, 54–55

  Galloni, Antonio:

  Dunn visit of, 136, 139, 141

  two–hundred–year plan and, 26

  Gamble, Tom, 60–67

  General Plan and, 61–65, 69

  physical appearance of, 60

  Gamble Family Vineyards, 60, 62

  Gastronomic Order of the Nonsensical and Dissipatory (GONAD), 148

  Gehry, Frank, 177, 194

  General Plan:

  Deep Root on, 200

  definition of agriculture in, 62–64, 67–70, 200

  and serving food at wineries, 61–65, 67

  George III, king of England, 170

  Germans, Germany, xx, xxv, 79, 89, 159, 161–62, 185, 269

  Giant (Ferber), xix

  Gilded Age, xxii

  Gironde, 7, 24

  Gitelman, Hillary, 61–62, 64, 68–70

  global warming, 29–30, 147, 156, 205–6, 217, 229, 235, 268

  and tree cutting and stream setbacks, 3, 246, 248

  water concerns and, 238, 270, 273–74

  Gods, Men and Wine (Younger), 3, 9

  Gold Rush, xx, 16, 126

  Gore, Al, 74, 208

  grapes, grapevines:

  as alternative to tobacco, xxiv

  bartering with, 139, 277

  boycotts of, 38

  burning of, 203

  Davis’s acquisition of, 156–57

  and definition of wineries, 43, 64, 194, 212, 241

  finances and, 35–38, 40–41, 43, 62, 118, 158, 160, 208, 265, 268

  in future, 271–72, 274

  global warming and, 29

  of Howell Mountains, 139, 144–45, 154, 157–58, 162

  of Jefferson’s vineyard, xxiv–xxv

  organic, 223

  over–ripened, 7–9

  physical appearance of, 37

  picking and processing of, 87

  planting and upkeep of, 10

  and speculation on origin of wine, 4

 

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