Mallmann on Fire

by Francis Mallmann

  3:00 p.m.

  ■ Replenish the coals in grill #2. (You will need someone to help you lift off the grate so you can distribute the fresh charcoal evenly.)

  ■ Replenish the coals around the outside of grill #1. Turn the large cuts of meat, season, and baste.

  3:30 p.m.

  ■ Replenish the coals in both grills as necessary.

  ■ Place the smaller cuts of pork (chops, sausages) on grill #1. Turn the larger cuts and season and baste them. Check the internal temperatures of the large cuts; the sirloin roast should reach about 145°F for medium. Take it off when it’s ready and let it rest.

  ■ Check the chops and sausages for doneness and turn as necessary, basting the chops.

  ■ Replenish the coals again as necessary. Arrange coal for three areas of varying heat: low, medium, and high.

  4:00 p.m.

  ■ Continue to baste and check the vegetables, removing them to a platter as they are done.

  ■ Check the internal temperature of the large cuts again. The shoulder roast should be at 165° to 170°F when you remove it; carryover cooking will take it to 180°F as it rests. Remove a rack of ribs and cut into them to see if they are done. If not, return to the hottest side of the fire.

  ■ Move the chops so they are over hot coals to finish developing the crust if necessary. Finish the sausages over the hottest coals if necessary to develop a golden-brown crust.

  4:30 p.m.

  ■ Reheat the vegetables over a medium fire if desired. Halve or quarter them before serving.

  ■ Meanwhile, serve the sausages.

  ■ Slice the chops and the sirloin roast and spoon some of the salsa over the slices.

  ■ Slice the racks of ribs into individual ribs. Dress with salsa as desired.

  ■ Carve the shoulder roast and dress with salsa. Serve all the meat.

  ■ Wine, wine, and more wine!

  Charred Herb Salsa

  This salsa is also great with Leg of Lamb (page 93) and Chicken on Strings (page 109). MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS

  FOR THE HERB BASTING LIQUID

  2 lemons

  2 cups dry white wine

  2 cups extra virgin olive oil

  FOR THE FIRST HERB BUNDLE

  1 large bunch flat-leaf parsley

  1 large bunch thyme

  1 large bunch oregano

  Reserved fennel fronds (from vegetables)

  1 bunch scallions

  3 garlic cloves

  FOR THE SECOND HERB BUNDLE

  1 bunch basil

  1 bunch mint

  1 bunch garlic scapes (you can also use young leeks, green garlic stalks, or garlic chives)

  TO ASSEMBLE THE SALSA

  1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves removed and chopped

  2 chile peppers (heat level to taste), seeded and minced, or more if desired

  1 cup red wine vinegar, or to taste

  1 cup extra virgin olive oil, or to taste

  Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

  Crushed red pepper flakes

  For the basting liquid, remove the zest from the lemons in large strips and set aside. Cut the lemons in half and squeeze the juice into a large bowl. Add the white wine and olive oil and toss in the squeezed-out lemon halves.

  For the first herb bundle, tie the parsley, thyme, oregano, fennel fronds, and scallions together with kitchen string. Tuck the strips of lemon zest and the garlic inside. For the second bundle, tie the basil, mint, and garlic scapes together.

  One and a half hours before serving, put the herb bundles in grill baskets and set them on the grill with the vegetables. When they are slightly charred, remove the bundles and dunk them thoroughly in the basting liquid, then return them to the grill on the other side. Reserve the basting liquid for the salsa.

  When the herbs are half charred on both sides, transfer them to a large chopping board. Trim off any tough stems and chop all the herbs together. Add the chopped fresh parsley and chile peppers and mix well, then stir it all into the remaining basting liquid. Add the vinegar and olive oil. Season with salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes to taste.

  Braised Chorizo with Carrots, Fennel, and Creamy Polenta

  Fresh chorizo sausage is a staple on the grill in Argentina and Uruguay, and it has recently become more widely available in the United States. Here I combine it with some spicy cured Spanish chorizo and lots of grated carrots and tomatoes to make a hearty stew, served over soft polenta. The carrots slowly cook down into the sauce to lighten it, and the sautéed fennel, incorporated at the end, adds texture. SERVES 8 TO 12

  FOR THE CHORIZO

  ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing

  4 ounces thickly sliced pancetta, roughly chopped

  1 onion, chopped

  2 pounds fresh Argentine or Mexican-style chorizo, cut into 1-inch pieces

  1½ pounds carrots, peeled and coarsely grated

  8 ounces spicy (picante) cured Spanish chorizo, casings removed and diced

  4 fresh rosemary sprigs

  2 bay leaves

  1 cup dry white wine

  Two 28-ounce cans Italian plum tomatoes, with their juice

  2 cups Rich Vegetable Stock (page 288)

  2 fennel bulbs, trimmed, cored, and cut into julienne strips

  Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

  FOR THE POLENTA

  8 cups Rich Vegetable Stock (page 288)

  2 cups coarse polenta

  ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

  1 cup freshly grated Parmesan or Pecorino Romano cheese

  Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

  To make the chorizo, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a deep heavy pot over medium heat. Add the pancetta and sauté for several minutes, until the fat starts to render, then add the onions, stirring to coat them in the fat. When the onions have softened, add the fresh chorizo, stir well, and cook, stirring, until it loses its raw color. Add the carrots, Spanish chorizo, and herbs and stir well. Cover the pot and let the carrots sweat for several minutes to soften them.

  Uncover the pot and add the wine. Raise the heat, bring to a boil, and let the mixture bubble until the wine reduces by half. Stir in the tomatoes, with their juice, and the stock. Crush the tomatoes with the back of a fork, then lower the heat to a bare simmer, partially cover, and cook for 4 hours. The carrots will melt into the sauce with the tomatoes. (The recipe can be prepared ahead to this point; reheat before adding the fennel.)

  About 20 minutes before serving, prepare the polenta: Bring the stock to a boil in a large heavy saucepan. Gradually stir in the polenta and let it bubble over medium heat, stirring frequently, for 15 to 20 minutes, until it is thick and creamy but still quite moist. Beat in the olive oil and cheese and season to taste with salt and pepper.

  Meanwhile, toss the fennel with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a bowl. Heat a chapa or a large cast-iron griddle over medium-low heat and brush with olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the fennel and sauté gently, turning occasionally, for about 8 minutes, until crisp and golden on all sides. Stir into the stew and season with salt and pepper to taste.

  Spoon the polenta into large bowls, top with the braised chorizo, and serve.

  The old abandoned train station in Garzón.

  Pork Chops with Toasted Nuts

  Pork Chops with Toasted Nuts and Braised Beans with Red Wine and Tomato (page 215).

  The very best pork comes from free-range pigs that eat grass and nuts, particularly acorns, so I thought nicely caramelized pork would be wonderful with toasted nuts: the two would accentuate each other. Use big, thick pork chops for this, such as the large porterhouse chops available at some farmers’ markets or at specialty butchers. They are well suited to the heat of a chapa, where they develop a beautiful crust and moist, juicy interior. SERVES 4

  ¼ cup oregano oil (see page 281), at room temperature

  4 pork chops (bone-in), about ¾ inch thick (14 ounces each)

 
; Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

  Braised Beans with Red Wine and Tomato (page 215)

  ¼ cup chopped Toasted Nuts (page 283)

  Celery leaves (optional)

  Spread the oregano oil on a large plate and turn the chops in it to coat. Season well with salt and pepper and let marinate for at least 30 minutes.

  Heat the grill or one or two large, ridged, cast-iron grill pans over medium heat. Season the chops well with salt, arrange them on the hot surface, and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, until nicely grill-marked on the bottom. Turn and cook the other side for 4 to 6 minutes, or until the meat reaches an internal temperature of 140°F; it should be slightly pink inside. Transfer to a platter and let rest for 5 minutes.

  Meanwhile, bring the beans to a simmer. Check and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

  Spoon the beans into wide soup bowls and arrange the chops on top. Top with the toasted nuts and garnish with celery leaves, if using.

  Grilled and Roasted Leg of Pork Wrapped in Rosemary with Orange, Black Pepper, and Rosemary Salmuera

  This is a dramatic dish for a family gathering or a holiday party. Inevitably, there will be leftovers—that’s a good thing—just as with a Thanksgiving turkey. You’ll also have a flavorful bone to cook with beans. Serve with the salmuera or Roasted Pineapple (page 254).

  If you have room in your fridge, wrap the roast in the rosemary and garlic the night before for deeper flavor. If you can start the pork on the grill outside, you get the benefit of smoky wood flavor, but it will still be delicious if you do all the cooking in the oven.

  And, if you love this idea but don’t want to roast a whole leg, try it with a half leg and adjust the timing accordingly. SERVES ABOUT 20, WITH LEFTOVERS

  1 pork leg (on the bone), about 22 pounds, with about ¾ inch fat left on

  Coarse salt

  3 or more bunches rosemary

  12 garlic cloves, cut in half

  Orange, Black Pepper, and Rosemary Salmuera (page 287)

  Set the meat on a large work surface and, using a sharp knife, make deep lengthwise cuts in the fat from one end of the leg to the other, forming grooves about 1½ inches apart—do not cut into the meat, just through the fat. Repeat with crosswise cuts the same distance apart to form a crosshatch pattern. Sprinkle generously all over with salt and rub it thoroughly into the fat and meat. Turn the leg fat side up and, starting at one end, line the grooves with rosemary branches, pressing in as much rosemary as you can. Slide a piece of butcher’s twine under the center of the leg, bring both ends up, and tie it tightly to hold the rosemary in place. Repeat with a second length of twine a few inches away from the first, and a third a few inches away on the other side. Repeat with more twine until the rosemary is firmly secured. Tuck the garlic cloves into the crosswise cuts, under the rosemary or twine if necessary to hold it in. Wrap in foil and refrigerate, overnight if possible. Bring to room temperature before roasting.

  If starting the roast outdoors, prepare a medium-low fire in a charcoal grill and heat an horno or the oven to 325°F, with the rack set low enough to leave at least 2 inches of space above the top of the roast. If cooking only indoors, heat the horno or oven to 425°F.

  If cooking outdoors, place the meat on the fire and grill slowly, turning it to brown the fat on all sides. Then transfer it to a roasting pan, cover with a double thickness of foil, and place in the horno or oven. If working only indoors, put the meat in a large deep roasting pan or turkey roaster and brown it in the hot oven for 25 minutes, or until the fat starts to crisp and the rosemary is very fragrant. Remove the roasting pan from the oven and cover tightly with a double layer of foil, then return it to the oven and reduce the heat to 325°F. In either case, cook, covered, for 4 hours.

  Uncover the meat and spoon or pour off most of the fat. Raise the heat to 350°F, baste the meat with some of the fat, and return it to the oven for another 2 hours, or until a digital-probe or instant-read thermometer stuck in the thickest part registers 150°F and the fat is crisp and brown. During this time, check the meat occasionally and spoon off the fat if necessary; if the roast is browning too quickly, cover it loosely with foil. Transfer the meat to a large carving board, cover it loosely with foil, and let it rest for 30 minutes. The internal temperature will continue to rise as it rests.

  To carve, cut thin slices inward toward the bone, then cut across them at the bone to release them. Reserve all the juices on the carving board to spoon over the meat. Arrange on plates, spoon the juices over, and serve with the salmuera.

  Red-Wine-Braised Spareribs with Red Cabbage and Carrot Slaw

  In the United States, people are very fond of spareribs either grilled or smoked, but they are very nice when braised too. The richer and more flavorful the braising liquid, the more delicious the result. So go ahead and enjoy your barbecued ribs all summer long, but when winter comes, this is just the thing. When possible, I grill the ribs first for more flavor, but you can also brown them in a pot on the stovetop. Instead of braising the ribs with red cabbage—which invariably results in overdone cabbage—I serve my cabbage as a crunchy bright slaw. SERVES 6

  6 pounds spareribs or country-style ribs

  Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

  1 bottle (750 ml) full-bodied red wine, such as Malbec, plus more if needed

  3 cups Rich Brown Pork Stock (page 289), plus more if needed

  2 heads garlic, halved horizontally

  3 bay leaves

  6 fresh thyme sprigs

  4 fresh rosemary sprigs

  Red Cabbage and Carrot Slaw (page 223)

  If starting the ribs outdoors, prepare a medium fire in a charcoal grill. Trim the excess fat from the ribs and season them well with salt and pepper. Grill the ribs, turning often, for about 30 minutes, until crisp and brown on both sides. (Alternatively, working in batches to avoid crowding, season the ribs, lay them fat side down in a large heavy pot, and slowly brown them over medium heat, turning them as they darken and crisp on both sides. Spoon or pour off the fat.)

  Meanwhile, heat an horno or the oven to 350°F.

  Transfer the grilled ribs to a large heavy pot. Pour the wine over the ribs and add enough stock to almost cover them. Add the garlic and herbs and season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then set in the oven and braise for about 2½ hours, or until the meat is tender enough to cut with a spoon. Every half hour or so, skim off the fat, turn the meat, and add more stock or wine if necessary. Eventually the liquid should reduce to a deep, burnished-mahogany syrup.

  When the ribs are done, transfer them to a large deep serving platter or a bowl and cover with foil. Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh strainer into a bowl and skim as much fat as you can off the top. (At this point, the sauce can be chilled, which will make it easier to remove the fat, and the ribs refrigerated, to serve the next day; reheat the ribs in the sauce before serving.) Adjust the seasoning.

  To serve, spoon a generous amount of sauce over the ribs to moisten and glaze them. Serve with the cabbage slaw and the rest of the sauce on the side.

  Pork Loin Chops with Thyme Oil and Roasted Grapes on the Vine

  Few things are more rewarding than a succulent pork chop, and few things are more disappointing than one that is dried out. Grilled pork chops require care. Thyme oil infuses the chops with an herb that I find particularly beautiful with pork—it builds flavor but doesn’t take over the way rosemary might. As for the roasted grapes, everyone loves wine with pork, and wine is made from grapes, so I thought, “Why not?” SERVES 4

  4 boneless pork loin chops, about ¾ inch thick and 8 ounces each

  3 tablespoons thyme oil (see page 281), at room temperature

  Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

  8 small fresh thyme sprigs

  1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

  Roasted Grapes on the Vine (page 282)

  Pat the pork chops dry with paper towels and put them on a plate. Spoon a little thyme oil on each one and tur
n them over in it to coat both sides. Season well with salt and pepper and top each chop with a couple of sprigs of thyme, pressing on them so they adhere.

  Heat a charcoal grill or a large deep-ridged cast-iron grill pan over high heat. Brush the grill or pan with oil. Add the pork chops, thyme side down, and grill for about 4 minutes, or until nicely marked on the bottom. Turn and grill on the other side for about 3 minutes, or until browned but still just slightly pink inside.

  Arrange the chops on dinner plates, with a bunch of roasted grapes on top of each one, and serve immediately.

  TRAVELS WITH FIRE

  NEW YORK, NEW YORK

  Cooking in front of Gramercy Tavern in Manhattan.

  New York can be generous, warm, and loving when the mood strikes, but it can turn capricious, unforgiving, and frantic just as easily. I have seen both sides. I spent five years in the Hamptons, and I tried very hard to open a place in New York City. So expensive! And so many rules—especially for a man who wants to cook over open fire. I think in the years I was there it was probably easier to get a permit to use dynamite than one to cook over a wood fire.

  But then there is the other New York, the Big Apple, the city with the strongest pulse of any place in the world. So many nationalities! And all of them cook. On a recent trip, I was invited by the charity organization Share Our Strength to cook on the street in front of the famous Gramercy Tavern. It was quite a sight, with our infiernillos blazing, taxi drivers passing and waving, and passengers in long black limousines rolling down their windows to breathe in the smell of fire and beef. A policeman stopped, and I was worried that with all the smoke and flames he would shut us down. I told him that we were just about done and would have the fires out right away.