Mallmann on Fire

by Francis Mallmann

  4 large ripe pears

  28 whole cloves

  2 bottles (750 ml each) Malbec

  1 cup sugar, or more to taste

  1 cup very cold heavy cream

  2 cups berries, such as raspberries, blueberries, and blackberries

  Stud the pears with 7 cloves each. Combine the wine and sugar in a large saucepan, add the pears, and bring to a gentle simmer over low heat. Cook for about 1 hour, until the pears are tender all the way through; they should be soft enough to eat with a spoon but not falling apart. Remove from the poaching liquid and set them aside.

  Raise the heat to medium and reduce the wine to a syrup, tasting about halfway through. The flavor will be very intense; add more sugar if it’s too tart.

  Whip the cream until soft peaks form. Arrange the pears on serving plates and slash them open. Fill with the whipped cream, garnish with the berries, and drizzle the syrup over all.

  Broiled Sabayon with Berries

  In my early childhood, when we lived on the shores of Lake Nahuel Huapi, we had a wonderful garden on the property and every berry you could imagine. There is a songbird there called a sorcal, which loves our wild berries as much as I do. My brother, Carlos, and I would go out berry picking in the afternoon and it was always a competition to get them before the sorcal did. My grandmother, Tata, would make a great sambayon (sabayon) to serve with them and, like every chef, I often measure traditional recipes against those of my grandmother.

  Do not let the egg yolks get too warm, or they will scramble. You can lift the bowl and continue beating off the heat if the sabayon seems to be thickening too quickly. SERVES 4

  6 large egg yolks, at room temperature

  6 tablespoons sugar

  3 tablespoons port

  1 tablespoon Armagnac

  1 pint fresh berries, one kind or a mix

  1 tablespoon chopped toasted almonds

  1 tablespoon chopped toasted hazelnuts

  1 tablespoon chopped toasted walnuts

  Preheat the broiler. Place the egg yolks and sugar in a medium stainless steel bowl, set over a saucepan of barely simmering water, and, with an electric mixer, beat until very light and foamy and beginning to thicken.

  Spread the sabayon in a large gratin dish or shallow baking dish and set the berries into it, spacing them about an inch apart. Set under the broiler for a minute or two, rotating the dish if necessary to brown the sabayon evenly and watching carefully so it does not burn. Sprinkle the toasted nuts over the top and bring immediately to the table.

  Sabayon Ice Cream with Roasted Pineapple and Gooseberry Jelly

  When I was a boy, I was on the thin side, and my parents would feed me sambayon every day in the hope that I would put on weight. This is the opposite of the problem many of us face as adults. Still, you never outgrow your childhood favorites, or at least I never did, so whenever I am looking for a dessert that will satisfy both my grown-up tastes and my childhood memories, this is the one. It makes for a fine showcase for slow-roasted pineapple—a trick I picked up in Brazil. SERVES 6

  FOR THE ICE CREAM

  8 large egg yolks

  ½ cup sugar

  2 tablespoons port

  2 cups very cold heavy cream

  FOR THE ROASTED PINEAPPLE

  2 cups water

  2 cups sugar

  1 ripe, juicy pineapple

  1 cup gooseberry jelly

  Place the egg yolks and sugar in a large stainless steel bowl, set over a saucepan of barely simmering water, and beat with an electric mixer until very light and creamy and beginning to thicken. Watch the temperature of the mixture carefully, and scrape it from the bottom and sides of the bowl often so it does not overheat and scramble. Add the port and continue beating until the sabayon is foamy and tripled in volume. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature.

  Whip the cream just until it forms stiff peaks, and fold it gently but thoroughly into the cooked custard. Refrigerate until chilled.

  Pour the mixture into an ice cream machine and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer to a freezer container and freeze overnight.

  To make the roasted pineapple: If cooking outdoors, heat a charcoal grill over medium heat. If cooking indoors, heat the oven to 375°F.

  Pour the water into a saucepan, add the sugar, and heat over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar dissolves. Pour into a deep roasting pan just large enough to hold the pineapple.

  Slice off the bottom and top of the pineapple. Remove the skin and trim out the eyes. Lay the pineapple in the syrup and turn to soak all sides. If cooking outdoors, grill the pineapple slowly, turning to brown all sides. Occasionally dunk it in the syrup to baste, using tongs to turn it over in the syrup. The pineapple should be tender in about 1 hour. If cooking indoors, lay the pineapple on its side in a roasting pan and bake until it is tender all the way through and very juicy but still holds its shape, about 1 hour. Every 15 minutes, take the pineapple out, roll it in the syrup to baste, and return to the pan, rotating the pan.

  Transfer the pineapple to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes. (Reserve the syrup for another use, such as the Grilled Bizcochuelo Strips on page 244.)

  Melt the gooseberry jelly in a saucepan over medium heat. With a long serrated knife, cut the pineapple into ¾-inch-thick slices. Arrange on individual dessert plates with a scoop of the ice cream, and drizzle with the melted gooseberry jelly.

  VARIATION:

  Sabayon Ice Cream with Roasted Grapes

  Prepare the ice cream base and start freezing it according to the manufacturer’s instructions. When the ice cream is almost frozen, add ½ cup stemmed Roasted Grapes (page 282), while the motor is running, and proceed as directed.

  Pressed Pears and Plums in Red Wine with Rosemary

  Pressed Pears and Plums in Red Wine with Rosemary. I pressed these pears under a 60-pound paving stone, but you will do just as well by stacking some cast-iron skillets, Dutch ovens, or bricks.

  Pressing any fruit concentrates its flavor. If you use enough weight, the fruit becomes so dense that when you serve it, you eat the most heavenly pudding. I often add a touch of rosemary: Its savoriness helps to focus the broad sweet fruit flavor.

  You can vary the amount of sugar depending on the sweetness of the fruit. SERVES 8

  6 ripe pears

  6 large ripe plums

  2 cups sugar, or to taste

  2 to 3 bottles (750 ml each) light red wine, such as Uruguayan Tannat

  A large bunch of rosemary

  2 lemons

  Ice cream or whipped cream

  Heat an horno or the oven to 350°F.

  Arrange the pears, on their sides, and plums in a single layer in a large deep roasting pan. Pour the sugar and 2 bottles of the wine over the fruit, and scatter the rosemary branches on top. Wrap a slightly smaller roasting pan in foil to protect it and place it on top of the sugared fruit. Weight this pan with as many heavy bricks or cast-iron skillets as will fit (and that you are able to lift).

  Move the whole thing into the oven and bake for about 2 hours, checking the wine level every 30 minutes and adding more wine as it evaporates; check more frequently during the second hour to make sure the fruit does not burn. You want to end up with flattened pears and plums and a syrupy red wine sauce.

  Transfer the fruit and syrup to a wide shallow serving platter. Grate the zest of the lemons over the fruit, and serve with ice cream or whipped cream.

  Dulce de Leche Ice Cream

  One of the most extravagantly sweet and caloric recipes, dulce de leche ice cream is the single most popular dessert in all of my restaurants. Freezing lightens the overwhelmingly sweet effect of the dulce de leche. Serve with any burnt (charred) fruit, such as bananas or strawberries. If you keep going back for more, as we Argentines do, wear loose-fitting trousers! MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART

  2 cups whole milk

  1 pound dulce de leche, preferably La Salamandra

  ½ cup
heavy cream

  Pour the milk into a heavy saucepan, add the dulce de leche, and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon or a wire whisk, until the dulce de leche is completely melted and blended with the milk; the mixture should be a dark caramel color and perfectly smooth. Transfer to a stainless steel bowl and set into a larger bowl of ice water to cool.

  Whisk the heavy cream into the dulce de leche mixture to blend and refrigerate until chilled.

  Pour the ice cream base into an ice cream machine and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer to a freezer container and freeze until firm before serving.

  Chocolate Torta del Lago with Nuts and Dulce de Leche

  Making Chocolate Torta del Lago with Nuts and Dulce de Leche for my grade-school teacher Edith Jones.

  This cake is delicious and extremely rich—a small slice goes a long way. Sometimes I use only hazelnuts, but a combination of nuts, such as walnuts and almonds, works well too. Dusting the nuts lightly with flour before adding them to the batter keeps them from sinking to the bottom. SERVES 8

  Butter and flour for the pan

  12 ounces bittersweet chocolate (70% cacao), chopped

  ¾ pound (3 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into pieces

  6 large eggs, separated

  6 tablespoons sugar

  ½ cup sifted cake flour, plus extra for dusting

  5 ounces (1 cup) hazelnuts or other nuts, or a mix, coarsely chopped

  1 pound dulce de leche, preferably La Salamandra

  Heat an horno or the oven to 350°F, with a rack in the center. Butter and flour an 8-inch springform pan. Cut a circle of parchment paper to fit the pan and line the bottom with it. Butter and flour the parchment.

  Place the chocolate and butter in a metal bowl or the top of a double boiler and set over hot, but not simmering, water; do not let the bottom of the bowl touch the water. Melt the chocolate and butter together slowly, stirring every few minutes. Do not overheat, or the chocolate will seize (become lumpy). Remove from the heat and cool to tepid.

  Using an electric mixer, beat the egg yolks with the sugar in a large bowl until the mixture forms a ribbon when the beaters are lifted. Gradually but thoroughly mix in the flour. Fold in 1½ cups of the melted chocolate mixture, making sure it is thoroughly combined. Dust the nuts lightly with a little flour and fold them in too.

  Mix half the dulce de leche into the remaining chocolate mixture and set it aside for the glaze.

  Using clean beaters, beat the egg whites in a large bowl until they are stiff but not dry. Gently but thoroughly fold them into the batter.

  Pour the batter into the prepared pan and set it on a baking sheet. Bake for about 35 minutes, or until a bamboo skewer inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean. Let the cake cool for about 15 minutes before removing the sides of the pan, then cool completely on a rack.

  Slice the cake horizontally into 3 layers. Put the first layer on a serving plate and spread it with half the remaining dulce de leche. Set the second layer on top and spread with the rest of the dulce de leche. Set the top layer on top, smooth side up.

  Gently heat the chocolate–dulce de leche mixture over hot water until it is of pouring consistency. Pour it evenly over the top of the cake, letting it drip down the sides, then use a spatula to spread the glaze evenly over the sides. Refrigerate the cake to set the glaze before serving.

  COUNTRY BREADS

  Tarta de Picho

  My Aunt Mecha had an English-style teashop in Montevideo in the 1960s called The Teapot. She served just one kind of tea, a special blend of half Lapsang souchong and half Earl Grey, along with a few pastries and scones. The shop was open only from 4 until 7 p.m., and it was always packed. This recipe has been closely guarded by my grandmother and then my mother, Picho, until now. I hope it becomes a family tradition for you too. SERVES 6

  4 cups self-rising flour

  1 teaspoon baking powder

  2 large eggs

  ¾ cup olive oil, plus more for brushing

  1 cup whole milk

  8 ounces sliced boiled ham

  8 ounces cuartirolo or fresh mozzarella cheese, sliced ¼ inch thick

  1 tablespoon sugar

  Combine the flour and baking powder in a large bowl. Beat one of the eggs, then make a well in the flour and, using a fork, quickly mix in the beaten egg, olive oil, and milk, pulling it all together into a soft dough. Turn it out onto a floured board and knead it together for a minute or two. Shape it into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap, and chill for 1 hour.

  Heat an horno or the oven to 375°F.

  Divide the dough in half. Brush a 9½-inch springform pan with olive oil and lightly press half the dough into it with your fingers. Cover the dough with the slices of ham, and cover them with the cheese. Press the other half of the dough out into a circle the same size as the pan and set it on top of the cheese, pressing the edges together lightly to seal them.

  Beat the second egg with 1 teaspoon water and brush this egg wash over the pastry. Sprinkle with the sugar. Bake for about 25 minutes, until the tarta is golden brown on top and a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool for several minutes, then remove the sides of the pan and serve the tarta warm, sliced into wedges.

  Tarta of Cuartirolo Cheese and Red Grapes

  Cream cheese and jelly is a favorite of kids in North America, and this recipe marries my Aunt Mecha’s tarta with an Argentinean version of that combination.

  The dough is quite soft, so chill it well and work quickly. SERVES 6

  2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

  Tarta de Picho dough (at left), well chilled

  8 ounces seedless red or black grapes

  8 ounces cuartirolo or fresh mozzarella cheese, sliced about ¼ inch thick

  1 large egg plus 1 large egg yolk, lightly beaten

  2 tablespoons sugar

  Heat an horno or the oven to 375°F. Oil a medium baking sheet with the olive oil.

  Divide the dough in half. Set half the dough in the center of the baking sheet and, using your fingers, press it out into a rough circle ½ to ¾ inch thick and 9 inches in diameter. Arrange the grapes evenly over it, crushing them slightly with your fingers as you set them in the dough. Layer the cheese evenly over the grapes.

  Set the other half of the dough on a sheet of waxed paper and press it out into a circle slightly larger than the first one. Slide a pastry scraper or wide spatula under it, lift it up, and drape it over the cheese and grapes. Crimp the edges with a fork to seal and brush with the beaten egg to glaze. Sprinkle with half the sugar.

  Bake the tarta for about 25 minutes, until nicely browned on top. Sprinkle with the remaining sugar, slice into wedges, and serve warm.

  Pan de Molde

  This is our favorite breakfast in Garzón, a hearty no-knead dark loaf made with a semiliquid batter. Molde refers to the fact that it’s baked in a loaf pan. It is wonderful for toast. I find that it is a very noble dough that generously accepts all kinds of dried fruits and nuts. Thanks to Pilar Soria for this recipe. For years, she has kept my businesses together and made sure that things go right . . . when I cooperate. She has been my rock. MAKES 1 LOAF

  One ¼-ounce package active dry yeast

  2 tablespoons honey

  2 cups warm water (100° to 110°F)

  2¼ cups whole wheat flour

  1 cup plus 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour, plus more for the pan

  1 tablespoon coarse salt

  ¾ cup walnuts, chopped

  ⅓ cup raisins

  Butter for the pan

  Combine the yeast, honey, and ¼ cup of the warm water in a small bowl and let stand until foamy.

  Combine the flours and salt in the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Add the nuts and raisins and mix to coat them, then mix in the yeast mixture. With the mixer on medium speed, gradually add the remaining 1¾ cups water, mixing until a batter-like dough forms. Scrape into a large floured bowl an
d let rise in a warm place until doubled in volume, about 2 hours.

  Preheat an horno or the oven to 350°F. Butter and flour an 8½-by-4½-by-2½-inch loaf pan.

  Stir down the dough and scrape it into the prepared pan. Bake for about 55 minutes, or until the top is crusted and brown and a bamboo skewer inserted in the center comes out clean. The bottom should sound hollow when tapped. Let cool slightly in the pan, then turn out and cool completely on a rack before slicing.

  Sopa Paraguaya

  Although sopa means soup, this Paraguayan favorite is not a soup at all, but a corn bread layered with onions and fresh cheese. As the layers bake, they blend into a kind of lasagna. SERVES 8

  2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

  1¼ cups stone-ground yellow cornmeal

  3 onions, finely chopped

  1½ cups whole milk

  3 large eggs, lightly beaten

  1 teaspoon coarse salt

  ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

  1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, or to taste

  1¼ cups finely diced fresh mozzarella

  Heat an horno or the oven to 375°F, with a rack in the lower third. Brush a 9-by-5-by-3-inch loaf pan well with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and coat with ¼ cup of the cornmeal.

  Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet over low heat. Add the onions and sauté until tender and translucent; do not let them brown. Set aside to cool to room temperature.