Remembrance of Things Paris
Page 12
8½ tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into bits
1 large egg
½ teaspoon vanilla
For the chocolate mousse
⅓ cup dried currants
¼ up dark rum
6 oz fine-quality bittersweet chocolate, chopped
1 cup strong brewed coffee
7 tablespoons unsalted butter, kneaded with the heel of the hand until softened slightly
3 large egg yolks
3 tablespoons slivered blanched almonds
⅓ cup plus ½ teaspoon sugar
2 large egg whites at room temperature
⅔ cup well-chilled heavy cream
chocolate coffee beans for garnish (available at specialty foods shops)
Make the custard sauce: In a heavy saucepan scald the milk, remove the pan from the heat, and stir in the coffee. Let the mixture stand, covered, for 5 minutes, then strain it through a paper coffee filter into a large measuring cup. In a bowl whisk together the egg yolks and the sugar until the mixture is combined well, add the coffee-flavored milk in a slow stream, stirring, and transfer the mixture to the cleaned pan. Cook the mixture over moderately low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until it is thick enough to coat the back of the spoon and a candy thermometer registers 175°F (do not let the mixture boil). Strain the custard through a fine sieve into a bowl set in a larger bowl of ice and cold water and let it cool, stirring. Lay a piece of plastic wrap on the custard and chill the sauce. The custard sauce may be made 1 day in advance and kept covered and chilled.
Make the pastry rounds: In a bowl whisk together the flour, the confectioners’ sugar, and the almonds until the mixture is combined well, blend in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal, and make a well in the center of the mixture. In a small bowl whisk together the egg and the vanilla, add the egg mixture to the flour mixture, and toss the mixture until it is combined well. Knead the dough lightly with the heel of the hand against a smooth surface for a few seconds to distribute the butter evenly; form it into a ball and flatten it slightly. Chill the dough, wrapped in plastic wrap, for 1 hour. Roll out the dough ¼ inch thick on a lightly floured surface, cut out 10 rounds with a floured 3-inch cutter, and transfer the rounds to a baking sheet. Prick the rounds lightly and bake them in the middle of a preheated 375°F oven for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the edges are golden. Transfer the pastry rounds to a rack and let them cool. The pastry rounds may be made 2 days in advance and kept in an airtight container.
Make the chocolate mousse: In a small saucepan combine the currants and the rum and bring the rum to a boil. Remove the pan from the heat and let the mixture stand for 1 hour. In a heavy saucepan melt the chocolate in the coffee over moderately low heat, stirring, until the mixture is smooth; remove the pan from the heat. Add the butter in pieces, stirring the mixture until the butter is incorporated and the mixture is smooth. In a bowl whisk the egg yolks, add the chocolate mixture in a slow stream, whisking, and stir in the almonds and the currants, drained. Transfer the chocolate mixture to a bowl, on it lay a piece of plastic wrap, and let the mixture cool to room temperature. In a small heavy saucepan combine 1½ tablespoons water and ? cup of the sugar, bring the mixture to a boil over moderately high heat, stirring and washing down any sugar crystals clinging to the sides with a brush dipped in cold water until the sugar is dissolved, and boil the syrup until a candy thermometer registers 248°F (tilt the pan so that the thermometer can register). While the syrup is cooking, in a bowl with an electric mixer beat the egg whites until they are frothy, add the remaining ½ teaspoon sugar, and beat the whites until they just hold stiff peaks. Add the hot syrup in a slow steady stream, beating constantly, and beat the meringue until it is cooled to room temperature. In a bowl with the electric mixer beat the cream until it holds soft peaks. Into the whipped cream fold the meringue gently, stir one fourth of the meringue mixture into the cooled chocolate mixture, and fold in the remaining meringue mixture gently but thoroughly.
Put the pastry rounds, trimmed if necessary, into ten ½-cup ramekins, measuring 3 inches across the bottom. Divide the chocolate mousse among the ramekins, smoothing it, lay pieces of plastic wrap on the mousse, and chill the desserts for at least 3 hours and up to 8 hours. Run a thin knife around the edge of 1 of the desserts and unmold the dessert onto a metal spatula. Transfer the dessert pastry side down to a plate and discard the plastic wrap. Unmold the remaining desserts in the same manner, top them with the chocolate coffee beans, and around them pour the custard sauce. Serves 10.
ENTREMET CHOCOLAT CARAMEL AVEC SAUCE VANILLE GÉRARD BESSON
(Chocolate and Caramel Mousse Cake with Vanilla Custard Sauce)
For the chocolate cake
1 large whole egg at room temperature 4 large egg yolks at room temperature
4 oz almond paste, crumbled (about ? cup, available at specialty
foods shops and some supermarkets)
⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon confectioners’ sugar
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons all-purpose flour
⅓ cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled
For the chocolate mousse
3 oz fine-quality bittersweet chocolate, chopped
2 oz fine-quality unsweetened chocolate, chopped ½ cup sugar
2 large eggs at room temperature 1 cup well-chilled heavy cream
For the caramel mousse
4 large egg yolks
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
1 cup milk
1 envelope of unflavored gelatin
1 cup well-chilled heavy cream
For the custard sauce
12 large egg yolks
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
4 cups milk
5 vanilla beans, halved lengthwise confectioners’ sugar for dusting the cake
Make the chocolate cake: In a bowl with an electric mixer beat the whole egg, the egg yolks, the almond paste, and the confectioners’ sugar, sifted, until the mixture is thick and pale, sift together the flour, the cocoa powder, and the granulated sugar into the egg mixture, and stir the mixture until it is just combined. Stir in the butter until the mixture is just combined and turn the batter into a buttered 8-inch springform pan, 2¾ inches deep and the bottom lined with a buttered round of wax paper, and bake the cake in the middle of a preheated 400°F oven for 20 to 25 minutes, or until a tester comes out clean. Let the cake cool in the pan on a rack. Run a thin knife around the edge of the cake, remove the side of the pan, and invert the cake onto a flat surface. Remove the bottom of the pan, peeling away the wax paper carefully. The cake may be made 2 days in advance and kept covered tightly with plastic wrap. Cut the cake into 2 layers with a serrated knife, making the bottom layer twice as thick as the top, and reserve the layers, wrapped tightly in plastic wrap.
Make the chocolate mousse: In the top of a double boiler or a metal bowl set over barely simmering water melt the bittersweet chocolate and the unsweetened chocolate, stirring, and let the mixture cool completely. In a small heavy saucepan combine 2 tablespoons water and the sugar, bring the mixture to a boil over moderately high heat, stirring and washing down any sugar crystals clinging to the sides with a brush dipped in cold water until the sugar is dissolved, and boil the syrup until a candy thermometer registers 238°F (tilt the pan so that the thermometer can register). While the syrup is cooking, in a bowl with the electric mixer beat the eggs until they are very thick and pale. Add the hot syrup in a slow steady stream, beating constantly, and beat the mixture until it is cooled to room temperature. Beat in the melted chocolate. In another bowl with the electric mixer beat the cream until it holds soft peaks, stir one fourth of the whipped cream into the chocolate mixture, and fold in the remaining cream gently but thoroughly.
Into the bottom of the cleaned 8-inch springform pan fit the thicker layer of reserved chocolate cake, add the chocolate mousse, smoothing it w
ith a spatula, and top it with the remaining layer of reserved cake. Chill the chocolate mousse cake, covered, while making the caramel mousse.
Make the caramel mousse: In a bowl whisk the egg yolks with 2 tablespoons of the sugar, add the milk, scalded, in a slow stream, stirring, and transfer the mixture to a heavy saucepan. In a small bowl sprinkle the gelatin over 3 tablespoons cold water and let it soften for 10 minutes. While the gelatin is softening cook the milk mixture over moderately low heat, stirring with a wooden spoon, until it is thick enough to coat the back of the spoon and a candy thermometer registers 175°F (do not let the mixture boil). Add the softened gelatin, stir the mixture until the gelatin is dissolved, and reserve the custard in the pan, covered. In a small heavy skillet cook the remaining ½ cup sugar over moderately high heat, stirring constantly with a fork, until it is melted completely and a golden caramel and add the caramel carefully in a stream to the reserved custard (the caramel will bubble up and seize). Heat the mixture over moderately low heat, stirring constantly, until the caramel is dissolved, strain the caramel custard through a fine sieve into a bowl, and on it lay a piece of plastic wrap. In a bowl with the electric mixer beat the cream until it holds soft peaks. Set the caramel custard into a larger bowl of ice and cold water and stir it until it is the consistency of raw egg whites. Stir one fourth of the whipped cream into the caramel custard and fold in the remaining whipped cream gently but thoroughly.
Spread the caramel mousse over the chilled chocolate mousse cake, smoothing it with the spatula, and chill the cake, covered with plastic wrap, for 24 hours.
Make the custard sauce: In a large bowl whisk together the egg yolks and the sugar until the mixture is combined well, add the milk, scalded with the vanilla beans, in a slow stream, stirring, and transfer the mixture to a large heavy saucepan. Cook the mixture over moderately low heat, stirring constantly with the wooden spoon, until it is thick enough to coat the back of the spoon and a candy thermometer registers 175°F (do not let the mixture boil). Strain the custard through a fine sieve into a bowl set in a larger bowl of ice and cold water, let it cool, stirring, and chill it, covered, for at least 1 hour, or until it is cold. The custard sauce may be made 1 day in advance and kept covered and chilled.
Remove the side of the springform pan, transfer the cake (still set on the bottom of the pan) to a platter, and over it sift the confectioners’ sugar. Serve the cake with the custard sauce. Serves 12.
SOUFFLÉS ÉTONNANTS À LA MENTHE ET AU
CHOCOLAT AMER LE DIVELLEC
(Mint Soufflés with Bitter Chocolate Mousse)
For the pastry cream
1 cup milk
½ cup firmly packed fresh mint leaves, chopped coarse
2 large egg yolks
½ cup sugar
2½ tablespoons all-purpose flour
For the chocolate mousse
½ cup heavy cream
3 oz fine-quality bittersweet chocolate, chopped fine
¼ cup sugar
3 large egg whites at room temperature
unsweetened cocoa powder for dusting the soufflés
2 mint sprigs for garnish
Make the pastry cream: In a small heavy saucepan scald the milk, remove the pan from the heat, and stir in the mint. Let the mixture stand, covered, for 5 minutes and strain it through a fine sieve into a measuring cup, pressing hard on the mint. In a bowl whisk the egg yolks with the sugar until the mixture is combined well, sift the flour over the yolk mixture, and whisk the mixture until it is combined well. Add the milk in a slow stream, whisking; in a heavy saucepan bring the mixture to a boil over moderate heat, whisking, and boil it, whisking, for 1 minute. Transfer the pastry cream to a bowl, on it lay a piece of plastic wrap, and let the pastry cream cool. The pastry cream may be made 1 day in advance and kept covered and chilled.
Make the chocolate mousse: In a small heavy saucepan bring ¼ cup of the cream to a boil and remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the chocolate until it is melted and the mixture is smooth, lay a piece of plastic wrap on the mixture, and let the mixture cool to room temperature. In a bowl with an electric mixer beat the remaining ¼ cup cream until it holds soft peaks, stir one fourth of the whipped cream into the cooled chocolate mixture, and fold in the remaining whipped cream gently but thoroughly. The mousse may be made 8 hours in advance and kept covered and chilled.
If the pastry cream has been chilled, bring it to room temperature. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of the sugar into each of 2 lightly buttered 6-inch ovenproof bowls, 1½ inches deep, and divide the chocolate mousse between the bowls, spreading it evenly. In a bowl with an electric mixer beat the egg whites until they are frothy, add the remaining 3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon sugar gradually, and beat the whites until they just hold stiff peaks. Stir one fourth of the whites into the pastry cream and fold in the remaining whites gently but thoroughly. Working quickly, divide the mixture between the bowls, spreading it to cover and seal the chocolate mousse completely, forming a dome shape, and bake the soufflés in the middle of a preheated 400°F oven for 13 to 15 minutes, or until they are golden. Sift the cocoa powder over the soufflés, top the soufflés with the mint sprigs, and serve them immediately. Serves 2.
March 1987
LA VIE EN ROSE
Frank J. Prial
A quarter of a century ago, when I was living on the Île Saint-Louis, I would stop by a wine shop just over the Pont Marie on the rue Saint-Paul. It was a wine shop from the past. It had no name other than a sign over the door that read VINS DU SUD-OUEST.Inside, a counter reached from one wall to the other. Behind it were four metered pumps, much like the ones at an old country gas station. Three of the pumps, for the reds, had a number: 11 on the first, 11.5 on the second, and 12 on the third, representing the alcohol content. Nowhere was there any mention of vintage, provenance, or grape variety.
The customers, mostly women, didn’t seem to mind. They arrived with their own bottles or plastic jugs and ordered, say, three liters of 11, or perhaps two of 11.5. It was Zola’s Paris, intact. The wines, wherever they came from, were not much, not even the most expensive, the douze, with its extra kick and high price of fifty cents a liter. I’d buy a little of the white wine, which had a pump of its own, and lug it home in my plastic jug to make moules marinière. It was exciting to discover this backstreet gem because, even in the 1970s, so much of the old wine scene in Paris had disappeared. Gone, for example, were Nicolas’s little three-wheeled motorcycle trucks that, until the 1960s, scurried around the city delivering wine the way we used to deliver milk in this country. Housewives or cooks would leave a wire bottleholder full of empties at the back door or in the courtyard, and the Nicolas man would replace them with twelve full bottles. Just about every week, usually.
Gone, too, were the old wine sheds at Bercy and Jussieu, at the eastern end of the city, where, long before the railroads arrived in the nineteenth century, wine came up the river by barge to be blended and bottled. By the time I got to Paris, most of the wine sheds at Jussieu had been replaced by a grim-looking extension of the University of Paris. Bercy also stood empty, its wine sheds and cellars crumbling, until the early 1990s, when the city turned the place into a park. There’s a small vineyard there now, probably to remind Parisians where their wine comes from. At Moissonnier, a bistro across the street from Jussieu, they still serve wine in a forty-centiliter pot, just as they did a hundred years ago, when the wine merchants dined there with their customers. Nicolas stores were everywhere in Paris in the 1970s, as they are today, but a lot of people—and restaurants—preferred to buy directly from the producers.
So did we. One day, in my office, someone produced a catalogue from a well-known Beaujolais shipper. Half a dozen of us chipped in and sent off for thirty or so cases. Two days later, I came home from work to find the wine sitting on a pallet in my courtyard, in the rain. Others would send off for a barrel of Beaujolais and then bottle it themselves to save money.
Champagne producers were just as eager to ship to us as
the Beaujolais makers. But we preferred the ninety-mile Champagne run. It required a car, a convivial group of three or four, some orders from a few friends, and a day off. We would avoid the big houses like Mumm and Mercier. Small producers like Bonnaire, in Cramant, and Ricciuti-Ré-volte, in Avenay, were always happy to offer a “tasting” to visitors intent on loading up a car. A bottle or two would appear on the kitchen table and be quickly finished off and, of course, pronounced superb.
Parisians, like most of the French twenty-five years ago, took wine for granted. It commanded little more attention than the baguettes they ate at every meal. Expensive wines—Bordeaux or Burgundy—were for special occasions and rare dinners out. No one read wine books; no one took wine courses. Instead, they depended on wine merchants. There were good ones around, people who knew their wine, unlike the current breed, who meekly run critics’ ratings in their advertising. Two favorites were Lucien Legrande, near the Place des Victoires, and Jean-Baptiste Besse, in the Latin Quarter. Both were épiciers who sold coffee, tea, exotic foodstuffs, and beer and liquor as well as wine. But both had an encyclopedic knowledge of wine.
Lucien Legrande was proud to be the third generation in his family to sell wine. Even as a youth he often spent his weekly day off visiting growers in the Loire, sometimes driving all night to get there. His cellars in the rue de la Banque actually belonged to an old abbey. He not only stored his wine there but bottled much of it himself. Legrande would sell you a famous Bordeaux if you insisted, but he often suggested something at a third the price, saying, “Try this. It’s just as good.”
Jean-Baptiste Besse was an ancient but rugged little peasant from the hardscrabble Corrèze region of France. Like Legrande, he had a passion for wine. He bought his wines in barrels, bottling half and selling the rest directly from the spigot. His seventeenth-century cellars on the rue de la Montagne Sainte-Geneviève were chaotic—chock-full of bottles, many piled precariously on the floor, ready to fall upon and crush anyone foolish enough to venture among them. Besse shrugged off complaints. “I have a photographic memory,” he’d say. “I know where every bottle is.”