The Adventurer's Guide to Britain
Page 9
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Sedburgh, LA10 5AB
OS grid ref: SD 658921
Distance: 24 miles/38km
Map: OS Explorer OL19
Local Highlights
Visit Cautley Spout, England’s highest above-ground waterfall. The broken cascade of falls tumbles nearly 650 feet (200m) down a series of rocky cliffs, starting from the high plateau of The Calf.
Refuel at the Three Hares in the centre of Sedburgh.
15 The Yorkshire Three Peaks
Every year, on the last weekend in April, nearly a thousand runners line up at the start of the Three Peaks Race. Seven hundred or so finish, a combination of tough terrain and strict cutoff times seeing some off. The fastest finish in under three hours, though many take twice as long. The course, 24 miles (39km) long with 5,200 feet (1,585m) of ascent, is over the Yorkshire Three Peaks: Whernside (2,415 feet/736m), Ingleborough (2,372 feet/723m) and Pen-y-Ghent (2,277 feet/694m). These mountains form part of the Pennine range, encircling the heads of the valleys of Chapel-le-Dale and the river Ribble. The race has been held since 1954 and has gained a reputation as an absolute classic on the fell-racing calendar. There’s also a Three Peaks Cyclo-Cross race that follows a longer 38-mile (61km) route across the peaks.
As well as being a must-do race for serious fell runners, the Yorkshire Three Peaks is a popular anytime challenge. Most people aim to complete the route in under 12 hours, starting and finishing in Horton-in-Ribblesdale.
The route: full details can be found at www.threepeakschallenge.uk and full planning with the relevant mapping is required. From Horton head south out of the village, then east to summit it Pen-y-Gh Ghent. Head generally ll north-east to Whernside, then south to Ingleborough, returning south-east to Horton.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Horton-in-Ribblesdale,
BD24 OHE
OS grid rf: SD 808724
Distance: 24 miles/38km
Map: OS Explorer OL2
Local Highlights
There’s a wealth of discoveries to be made in the area, including Gaping Gill, England’s highest waterfall; the remains of a huge Iron Age hillfort on the summit of Ingleborough; a fascinating network of caves, including the White Scar Caves; and vast areas of limestone pavement.
16 Scramble Gordale Scar
Let thy feet repair to Gordale chasm, terrific as the lair where the young lions couch.
William Wordsworth
Gordale Scar is a limestone ravine north-east of the village of Malham where Gordale Beck flows down the craggy hillside. Two waterfalls tumble over the overhanging limestone cliffs from a height of over 328 feet (100m). On the right-hand side of the waterfalls is a classic Grade I scramble that follows limestone flakes and jugs up the scar, or if the water isn’t flowing too strongly you can take your pick of the many different routes up the scar.
One of the best ways to experience Gordale and its intriguing surroundings is by going on a circular walk from Malham. The walk initially passes by the picturesque Janet’s Foss, where a pretty waterfall tumbles into an inviting pool, before reaching Gordale Scar. Climb up Gordale Scar and head on to Malham Tarn (no swimming) before heading back down the stepped dry valley to reach the limestone pavement at the top of Malham Cove. From here, follow the steps leading down to the majestic scoop of Malham Cove itself – home to some of the hardest sport climbing routes in the country – before returning to Malham village.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: National Park Centre car park,
Malham village, BD23 4DG
Distance: 7½ miles/12km
Map: OS Explorer OL2
Local Highlights
Camp at Gordale Scar campsite right by Malham Beck – it’s a wonderful way to immerse yourself fully in the unique landscape (malhamdale.com/camping).
Stock up on supplies or relax with a coffee at Town End Farm Shop & Café (townendfarmshop.co.uk).
17 Swim the Wharfe at Bolton Abbey
On a bend in the river below the abbey ruins, there is a wide sandy beach and I fully expected to see John the Baptist rise up amongst the bathers and bless them all for having the sense and self-reliance to go swimming in the wild.
Roger Deakin, WATERLOG
Its name deriving from the Old English woerf, meaning ‘winding river’, the river Wharfe flows 65 miles (105km) from Beckermonds, high in the central Yorkshire Dales, along the county boundary between North Yorkshire and West Yorkshire, and joins the river Ouse at Cawood, south of York. The stretch that curves gracefully past the ruins of Bolton Abbey, upstream of the bridge, is a popular place to swim, with a wide shingle beach, stepping stones and wonderful views up to the abbey itself. If you can avoid the crowds and come here out of season, on a rainy day or for a dawn dip, it’s exquisite – deep and long enough to really stretch out, with gently peaty water clear enough that you can see the boulders and fish below. Explore upstream as below the bridge there’s a weir The water here is cold – wetsuit and footwear recommended.
Challenge level:
Location: Bolton Abbey, near Skipton, North
Yorkshire, BD23 6EX
OS grid ref: SE 076543
Map: OS Explorer OL2
Local Highlights
A little upstream, through ancient woodland, you’ll come to the Strid – a narrow section of the river that has a fearsome reputation for swallowing people. Don’t go in under any circumstances, but the walk alongside is delightful. Below the Strid there’s some wonderful swimming in deep water through woodland.
Stay at Catgill Campsite, less than a mile (1.6km) from the river, perfectly situated for exploring the area and for post-adventure refuelling at the Devonshire Arms and the Yorkshire Dales Ice Cream Factory. There’s also Masons Campsite, just along the river, great for early-morning swims and with an onsite bakery and café.
Read about the experience of author Joe Minihane (pictured) swimming here at jmtravels.org/floating.
18 Climb Roseberry Topping
Often described as Yorkshire’s mini Matterhorn, the distinctive shape of Roseberry Topping makes it a popular and inviting challenge to climb. A sandstone outlier of the North York Moors uplands, until 1912 it was a sugarloaf (cone) shape; however, a geological fault, possibly in combination with local mining activity, caused it to collapse into its current shape. The hill was held in special regard by the Vikings, and Roseberry is a derivation of the name of the god Odin. This is a great place to run, as it also has the winding trails that run through the varied woodland and countryside at its foot – and it’s always fun to reach a proper summit too. There’s an annual Roseberry Topping Fell Race of 1.4 miles (2.3km) held each September by Esk Valley Fell Club.
The route: from the car park at Newton-under-Roseberry head south, skirting around Newton Wood and Cliff Ridge Wood. Then heading north again, climb over Roseberry Topping before turning left and contouring around the base of the hill to return to the start.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Newton-under-Roseberry car park, TS9 6QR
OS grid ref: NZ 570128
Distance: 5 miles/8km
Map: OS Explorer OL26
Local Highlights
Keep an eye out for fossils as you go – the rocks that form Roseberry Topping were laid down during the Jurassic period, and every step towards the summit represents around 5,000 years in geological time.
Enjoy cake and camping with fine Yorkshire views at Fletchers Farm in nearby Woodhouse
(fletchers-farm.co.uk)
19 Across the Cheviots
The great granite plateau of the Cheviots was created by volcanic activity some 400 million years ago. Although it rises to a high point of 2,674 feet (815m) at the Cheviot summit itself, few of the hills are particularly prominent, creating a rising and falling ocean of open fell.
The final stage of the 267-mile (430km) Pennine Way crosses the Cheviots from Windy Gyle in the south right across the Cheviot Hills
to Kirk Yetholm, just over the Scottish border, in the north. It’s a wild and often bleak 27 miles (43km), with no civilisation along the way. It makes for an outstanding day’s running, or a walk over two days, with a night on the hill or at one of the two B&Bs off the route, the latter adding a little extra to the total distance. There’s also the option of making an excursion to the summit of the Cheviot, about a mile (1.6km) off the main path.
The route is waymarked throughout, though in poor visibility or when tired it is easy to miss a marker, so make sure you have a map, compass and navigational skills as it’s a worrying place to get lost.
The annual Montane Spine Race tackles this stage at the end of a continuous traverse of the Pennine Way during winter conditions. The fastest runners will reach Kirk Yetholm in under 100 hours, but some may take over 160.
Challenge level:
Start: Windy Gyle
OS grid ref: NT 855152
Finish: Kirk Yetholm, TD5 8PF
OS grid ref: NT 827281
Distance: 27 miles/43.5km
Map: OS Explorer OL16
Local Highlights
Tradition dictates that you should celebrate a successful Pennine Way adventure with a beer at the Border Hotel, just across into Scotland. This is also the start of the Scottish National Trail, which heads north for another 536 miles (862km) to Cape Wrath.
20 Hadrian’s Wall & Broomlee Lough
With views of Hadrian’s Wall rising and falling across the hills, Broomlee Lough is a beautifully positioned lake in a high moorland setting. It’s a stone’s throw from Housesteads Fort, and the Pennine Way runs right past it; there are some fantastic running loops taking in the trails either side of Hadrian’s Wall, and you can cool off in the lake afterwards. The approach is fairly marshy and parts of the lake are shallow; however, this does mean it warms up quickly, and the south-eastern corner, beneath Dove Crag, is deep enough for a good swim. This is one of the best-preserved sections of Hadrian’s Wall and it’s well worth walking up to it to appreciate the sheer scale of both the wall itself and the undertaking as a whole as it marches across the wild landscape, rising and falling with the steep, rolling hills. The Hadrian’s Wall National Trail runs 84 miles (135km) from Wallsend in the east to Bowness in the west and makes a fantastic, and popular, adventure. Or you can cycle the 174-mile (280km) cycleway following NCN Route 72 across the country, some of it on the road and some of it traffic-free.
Challenge level:
Location: Broomlee Lough, NE47 6NW
OS grid ref: NY 790697
Map: OS Explorer OL43
Local Highlights
Sleep under the vast Northumberland skies at nearby Hadrian’s Wall Camping and Caravan Site (www.hadrianswallcampsite.co.uk).
Walk or run the 84-mile (135km) Hadrian’s Wall Path – an incredible journey along the borders through millennia of human history.
21 Paddle the Farne Islands
The Farne Islands are a group of 15–20 (depending on the tide) islands, scattered in the North Sea between 1½ and 4½ miles (2.4 and 7.2km) off the Northumberland coast. Owned by the National Trust, they’re a haven for wildlife, providing a nesting ground for over 100,000 seabirds, with 23 different species, including around 37,000 pairs of puffins. They’re also home to a large grey seal colony, with more than 1,000 pups born every autumn.
For experienced sea kayakers and paddleboarders, the trip out to explore the islands is one of the best paddles in the country. You can launch from several locations, including Seahouses (there’s a small fee) and Bamburgh. Avoid big tides and windy days, and be aware that there may be a bit of surf getting in. Local company Active 4 Seasons take guided sea kayaking trips out to the islands and many other locations around the area (www.active4seasons.co.uk). Or if you’d prefer to let someone else do the steering, there are several boat trip companies that will take you out to the islands, departing from Seahouses. Landing is prohibited on most of the islands, and there are (friendly, helpful) National Trust rangers there frequently. You may be able to land on Longstone if conditions are right, but check before you go.
Challenge level:
Location: Seahouses, NE68 7RN
OS grid ref: NU 219321 or Bamburgh, NE69 7AY
OS grid ref: NU 191345
Distance: 1½ miles/2.4km to reach the inner islands
Map: OS Explorer 340
Local Highlights
Bamburgh Beach, with its long, sandy crescent and views up to the imposing Bamburgh Castle, is well worth a visit.
The quirky Olde Ship Inn in Seahouses is good for a post-paddle pint.
Just down the A1 you’ll find Walkmill Campsite, friendly and unpretentious with pitches right by the river Coquet (walkmillcampsite.co.uk).
22 Ride Deadwater Fell, Kielder
Kielder Water and Forest Park is a haven for mountain biking, with several purpose-made trails. There’s something for everyone, from the gentle rolling Green Trail through to the technical black-graded Deadwater Route. For an epic day’s mountain biking, follow the Cross Border Trail, which links Kielder to the Scottish trail centre at Newcastleton, or tick off all the red trails in a single day. Our pick is the red-graded Deadwater Trail, which follows some great sections of technical singletrack and climbing, with a brilliant, flowy, bermed descent back to Kielder Castle. The optional black-graded loop to the top of Deadwater Fell is rewarded by an exciting descent if you fancy a longer and more challenging ride.
The wider Kielder Water and Forest Park area is well worth a few days’ exploring. It’s a dark sky reserve, perfect for stargazing, and the park is open 24 hours a day. There’s a 26-mile (42km) lakeside way, great for running; in fact there’s a Kielder marathon held on the route every year. You can stay on site should you wish, and you can even bring your own boat to go exploring on the lake, although you’ll need to arrange insurance cover first. Entry to the park is free, though parking is £5 per day, which goes towards maintaining the park.
Challenge level: various
Location: Kielder Water and Forest Park,
NE48 1EP
OS grid ref: NY 631936
Map: OS Explorer OL42
Local Highlights
Camp at Kielder Village Camping and Caravan Site, at the northern tip of Kielder Water and next to the remotest village in England – Kielder Village (kieldercampsite.co.uk).
Make the most of some of the darkest skies in Europe and go stargazing down by the water.
Have lunch by the stream at the family-run Pheasant Inn in nearby Stannersburn.
W ales
Making up just 9% of the UK’s land mass, Wales has an incredible diversity of landscapes. Explore the spectacular coastline of Gower and Pembrokeshire; the sometimes rolling, sometimes rugged Brecon Beacons; and dramatic Snowdonia, where adventures are as challenging as you choose to make them.
Brecon Beacons
Stretching west from the English border the Brecon Beacons are a rolling, wild landscape. Their high point, Pen-y-Fan at 2,907 feet (886m), is also the highest point in South Wales. This area is a dark sky reserve, perfect for watching the stars.
Gower & Pembrokeshire
The rolling countryside of the Gower Peninsula is edged by a dramatic coastline and fantastic beaches, while Pembrokeshire boasts the UK’s only coastal National Park. Here you’ll find outstanding surf, great sea kayaking, exhilarating trail running and abundant wildlife, including seals and puffins.
Central & Eastern Wales
Mid-Wales’s landscape is wild, rugged and sparsely populated and the hills rolling and often indistinct. It is the source of the Severn, the Wye and the Rheidol and is a place shrouded in ancient myth and legend.
The Berwyn Mountains lie relatively undiscovered between Snowdonia and the Wales/England border. Away from the crowds of the National Parks, this is a great place to explore if you’re looking for real wilderness. The Offa’s Dyke Path National Trail passes through eight different counties and crosses the border between Engl
and and Wales over 20 times.
Snowdonia
For many, Snowdonia is the ultimate adventure playground. Sparkling llŷns offer swimming of the wildest nature and there are jagged crags and outcrops famous for rock climbing. North Wales also has some absolutely brilliant scrambles, with lines such as Crib Goch on many an adventure ticklist.
Anglesey & the Llŷn Peninsula
Holy Island in Anglesey is the largest island in Wales and is dotted with the evidence of human habitation stretching over millennia. Most of the coastline is a designated AONB, and the Anglesey Coast Path is a great way to explore some of the most beautiful stretches of the island. The Llŷn Peninsula is a place of contrasts, from trendy Abersoch to peaceful farmland and stretches of wild, empty coastline.
1 Bikepack the Taff Trail
The Taff Trail is a mainly traffic-free 55-mile (89km) route that begins in Cardiff, taking in the sights of Wales’s vibrant capital. It passes through towns rich in industrial and mining heritage before emerging into breathtaking mountain landscapes where waterfalls cascade down craggy hillsides and twinkling reservoirs nestle in the valleys. The ride ends in the town of Brecon, a great place for a refuel or an overnight stop. From here you can either reverse the route to Cardiff or continue onwards, following the peaceful Monmouthshire and Brecon canal to the pretty town of Abergavenny, where there’s a station and regular trains back to Cardiff. If you begin your ride in Brecon there’s also an outstanding loop that takes you all the way around Pen-y-Fan. Head out on the Taff Trail as far as Merthyr Tydfil before following bridleways and quiet lanes back north to Brecon.