by Jen Benson
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Succoth village car park,
G83 7AP
OS grid ref: NN 294049
Distance: 7½ miles/12km (out and back on same route)
Map: OS Explorer OL39
Local Highlights
Shore Cottage, perched on the picturesque shores of Loch Fyne, in Strachur, is a perfect place to base yourself for adventures both within the National Park and further west on the Argyll coast. There’s also a shop and post office nearby, and you’re right on the Ardgartan mountain bike route (here 137).
16 Swim Loch Ard
Loch Ard lies a few miles west of Aberfoyle in Queen Elizabeth Forest Park and is considered to be the source of the river Forth, which flows from here to the Firth of Forth at Edinburgh. The loch is a wonderful swimming spot: very sheltered, 3 miles (5km) long and not as cold as some of the deeper lochs – although a wetsuit can still be a good idea. There are four islands on Loch Ard: Eilean Gorm; Briedach; St Mallo, which is rumoured to have an old chapel dedicated to that saint; and Dundochill, which is the site of Duke Murdoch’s castle that may have been built by the Duke of Albany. All of them are fun to explore from the water, whether you’re swimming or exploring by boat. The best entry points are from parking lay-bys on the main Aberfoyle to Stronachlachar road – one is on the opposite shore to Rob Roy’s cave, just round from Helen’s Point, and the other is near the water sports centre further up the road.
There’s a wonderful network of trails through the surrounding forest, perfect for exploring on foot or bike and with plenty of interesting wildlife to spot too, including roe deer, barn owls and capercaillie. Vigour Events holds an annual swim festival here, with distances from 1km to 12.5km (www.vigourevents.com).
Challenge level:
Location: Loch Ard, FK8 3TF
OS grid ref: NN 463019
Map: OS Explorer OL46
Local Highlights
Explore the forest by bike – family-friendly trails run alongside Loch Ard, and others head deep into the trees.
Climb the 2,392-foot (729m) peak of Ben Venue from nearby Loch Achray car park for breathtaking views of the National Park.
Enjoy a post-swim refuel at the excellent Ailean Chraggan pub in nearby Weem, just outside Aberfeldy.
17 The Three Lochs Way
The Three Lochs Way is one of Scotland’s Great Trails, a 34-mile (55km) linear route through the Loch Lomond & the Trossachs National Park. Waymarked throughout, it links Loch Lomond, Gare Loch and Loch Long in four stages, with a railway station at the start and end of each section, except at Inveruglas at the very end, where there’s a bus stop. It can of course be undertaken in one go, or over two days, with plenty of opportunities for a wild camp along the way.
A great way to see the less-visited side of Loch Lomond, the route begins at Balloch, gateway to the National Park, and crosses the moors to reach Helensburgh. It passes through Garelochhead and Arrochar before the final stretch through the hills to Inveruglas on Loch Lomond. The return trip up the eastern shore of Loch Lomond can be done by linking with the West Highland Way at Inveruglas.
Challenge ll level:
Start: Balloch station, G83 8SS
OS grid ref: NS 389818
Finish: Inveruglas, G83 7DW
OS grid ref: NN 323098
Distance: 34 miles/55km
Maps: OS Explorer OL37, OL38 and OL39
Local Highlights
Wild camping is restricted in some areas around Loch Lomond; however, Cashel Campsite, right on the eastern shores of the loch with stunning mountain views, is a great pace to base yourself. There’s easy access for swimming and kayaking; to the winding trails to explore around Queen Elizabeth Country Park with; and to the mountains beyond (www.campingintheforest.co.uk).
18 Around Loch Ossian
Loch Ossian lies on the Corrour Estate on the north-eastern edge of Rannoch Moor, a shining, 3-mile-long (5km) sliver of water against a backdrop of high mountains. Part of the joy of visiting here is its remote location with no road access – Corrour station, where several trains a day will stop by request, is just a short distance away.
The inviting 9-mile (14km) trail that loops all the way around Loch Ossian makes a great adventure in its own right, or as part of a longer stay exploring the area around Ben Alder, Scotland’s most remote Munro. It is also possible as a day trip from Glasgow – the Caledonian Sleeper stops at Corrour by request. Camp out in the wilds, away from everything, or stay at SYHA Loch Ossian, a recently renovated eco-hostel powered by the sun and wind. An early-morning run, followed by a dip in the loch, is one of the best ways we can think of to start the day.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Corrour station,
PH30 4AA
OS grid ref: NN 356664
Distance: 9 miles/14km
Map: OS Explorer 385
Local Highlights
Hike out to Ben Alder and stay at the remote, recently renovated bothy, Ben Alder Cottage (www.mountainbothies.org.uk).
Follow the West Highland Way across Rannoch Moor, one of the highest, wildest parts of the trail.
19 Paddle Loch Tay
Some 2,500 years ago, people lived on Loch Tay, on artificial islands called crannogs. Most of the loch’s eighteen crannogs are now submerged; however, you can still see one near the northern shore at Kenmore.
Loch Tay is the largest loch in Perthshire, and one of the deepest in Scotland. It’s a magnificent dark stretch of water, 15 miles (24km) long and around 508ft (155m) deep. To the north rise the impressive mountains of Ben Lawers National Nature Reserve, and National Cycle Network Route 7 runs along the quiet southern shore.
Paddling the length of the loch, or simply exploring around it and visiting the small island at its western end, is a great way to spend the day, and there are plenty of wild camping spots along the quieter sections of shoreline. There are two main launch points: Killin Castle and Firbush. Both are at the far western end of the loch, with parking for a few cars at each. If you don’t have your own boat there are several hire centres – Killin Outdoor Centre on Main Street in Killin has a good selection and you can launch straight into the river Lochay, which flows into Loch Tay.
Challenge level:
Location: Main St, Killin, FK21 8UJ
Map: OS Explorer OL48
Local Highlights
Climb the brilliant Ben Lawers – park on the minor road off the A827 between Loch Tay and Lochan na Lairige (OS grid ref: NN 609376) and follow the clear path north-east to the summit at 3,983 feet (1,214m). Out and back is about 6½ miles (10.5km) in total.
Refuel at MacGregor’s Market in Killin – an organic café plus community shop and information centre.
20 Ride Glen Lyon
Glen Lyon is the longest enclosed glen in Scotland, stretching for over 30 miles (50km) from the village of Fortingall in the east to Loch Lyon in the west. It was once described by Sir Walter Scott as the ‘longest, loneliest and loveliest glen in Scotland’. The river Lyon snakes its way along the flat bottom of the glen, in places in wide, shallow meanders, in others gushing through corries and gorges. There are pools perfect for a swim near Bridge of Balgie, with parking and a tearoom nearby, and further on there are the remote lochs of Loch Lyon and Loch an Daimh.
The route: from Fortingall church head west out of the village and turn right onto the twisting single-track road that runs through the glen. The road is initially hemmed in by high mountains and hugs the wooded banks of the river Lyon but soon opens out towards the hamlet of Innerwick, from where footpaths lead up into the hills for sensational views up and down the glen. At Bridge of Balgie you’ll find a tearoom, popular with walkers and cyclists for many years.
From here, a road runs on for another 11 miles (18km), ending at the huge dam of Loch Lyon, one of the most remote but most beautiful places in Scotland. Return by the same route.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Fortingall village churc
h,
PH15 2LL
Distance: 40 miles/66km
Map: OS Explorer OL48
Local Highlights
Take in the fascinating history of Fortingall village, starting with the Fortingall Yew, which may be at least 5,000 years old (some sources claim the figure is nearer to 9,000) and is perhaps the oldest tree in Europe. Nearby there are the remains of ancient Caledonian forest, ruined castles and a deep chasm known as MacGregor’s Leap where, in 1565, the chief of the Clan MacGregor reputedly escaped a group of pursuing Campbells.
21 Glen Esk Waterfalls
Glen Esk is the longest and most easterly glen in Angus, and Mount Keen, far up the valley, is Scotland’s most easterly Munro. The route down the glen makes a great run, the steep sides channelling you along, with a stretch right at the edge of Loch Lee and a climb up past tumbling waterfalls. It takes you all the way around Craig Maskeldie before an enjoyable climb over the top of Cairn Lick brings you to an all-out exhilarating descent that zigzags back to the valley floor. On a hot day the finishing stretch back along the loch just has to be swum. The river North Esk rises here and flows south through green and tranquil Glen Esk to reach the North Sea near Montrose. Further downstream, just north of the pretty village of Edzell, the North Esk falls through a rocky gorge at the wonderfully named Rocks of Solitude. The walk from the village up to the falls and back is beautiful.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Invermark car park, Glen Esk,
DD9 7YZ
Distance: 10 miles/16km
Map: OS Explorer OL54
Local Highlights
Described as the jewel in the crown of Angus, Edzell village is an interesting place to explore. Through the Dalhousie Arch at the entrance to the village, the long, wide and ruler-straight main street is lined with Victorian buildings, neat hedges and many tearooms. There’s even a ruined 16th-century castle with a walled garden.
22 Ben Macdui
At 4 4,295 295 feet (1 1,309m), Ben Macdui is the second-highest mountain in Britain after Ben Nevis, and the highest in the Cairngorm range. There are many routes to its summit, varying in length, difficulty and steepness, but on a clear day every one of them will reward you with incredible 360-degree views from the top.
The most straightforward ascent of Ben Macdui is from the Coire Cas car park at the ski centre, which, at 2,130 feet (650m), launches you deep into the Cairngorm plateau. Although this takes some of the trudge out of the initial ascent and there are no technical aspects to the route, you’ll still need good mountain navigation skills to complete it. The entire route is above the tree line, through a bare, rocky moonscape. Look out for only the hardiest of birds: ptarmigans, dotterels, snow buntings and golden eagles.
The route: from the start head south up the Fiacaill of Coire Cas to reach the big cairn at 3,743 feet (1 1,141m). m) Follow the rim of Coire an t-Sneachda on your right until you reach its lowest point. At the top of Coire Domhain, pick up a path climbing gently for few hundred metres. Contour round to the little Lochan Buidhe, the highest body of water in the British Isles.
Follow the path 1½ miles (2km) south to the summit of Ben Macdui, with its rocky cairn topped by a trig point. To return, retrace your steps to Lochan Buidhe and head north-west along the edge of the Lairig Ghru. Climb over the shoulder of Cairn Lochan to reach a high open step before continuing north down the ridge to the west of Coire Lochan. Rejoin your outward path back to the car park. NB: do not attempt in poor visibility or winter conditions without the expert knowledge and specialist equipment necessary.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Coire Cas car park, Cairngorm
Ski Centre, PH22 1RB
Distance: 11 miles/17km
Map: OS Explorer OL57
Local Highlights
CairnGorm Mountain centre is home to Britain’s highest funicular railway and offers guided excursions into the mountains – skiing over the winter months (www.cairngormmountain.org).
If you’re adventuring with a group take a look at Inshriach House: perfectly positioned on the edge of the Cairngorms near to Aviemore, it sleeps up to 17 self-catering. The River Spey runs past the house, perfect for swimming, and there’s a 200-acre estate to explore. Inspired glamping options also available (www.inshriachhouse.com).
23 Lochnagar & Loch Muick
Meaning ‘small loch of laughter’, Lochnagar is the highest and finest mountain in the Mounth, a range in the south-eastern Cairngorms. It’s a popular ascent and paths are generally clear and well maintained; however, as with all the higher tops, poor weather can make for extreme conditions. Choose a clear day and reaching the summit ridge is an experience never to be forgotten; in 1849 Lochnagar was climbed by Queen Victoria, who described it as ‘one of the wildest, grandest things imaginable’.
From Spittal of Glenmuick, head south-west along a track to reach the north-eastern tip of Loch Muick. Turn right here and cross a footbridge, following the path along the lake’s northern shore. Nearing the far end of the lake you’ll reach a wooded area and pier. From here you can either continue around the loch – a full circumnavigation is an enjoyable run/cycle of just under 8 miles (13km) – or turn right to head to the summit of Lochnagar. The path ascends steeply and follows the long groove of Glas Allt north-west on clear paths to reach the top of the Corrie of Lochnagar, where steep cliffs drop dramatically to the loch far below. Carefully avoid the cliff edge, keeping it to your right and aiming for the Cac Carn Mor cairn before continuing straight ahead to the summit of Lochnagar at NO 243861.
Challenge level: up to
Start/finish: Spittal of Glenmuick,
AB35 5SU
OS grid ref: NO 309851
Distance: circumnavigation of Loch
Muick is 7¾ miles (12.5km), additional 4 miles (6.4km) each way to the summit of
Lochnagar and back
Map: OS Explorer OL53
Local Highlights
Visit Braemar Castle, built in the 17th century, overlooking the River Dee. It’s had a varied and tumultuous past and is rife with myths and legends (www.braemarcastle.co.uk).
Braemar Mountain Festival celebrates the best of mountain adventure and culture annually in March (www.braemarmountainfestival.com).
Away, ye gay landscapes, ye gardens of roses, In you let the minions of luxury rove, Restore me the rocks where the snow-flake reposes,
Though still they are sacred to freedom and love. Yet Caledonia, beloved are thy mountains,
Round their white summits though elements war, Though cataracts foam ’stead of smooth-flowing fountains,
I sigh for the valley of dark Lochnagar.
Lord Byron
24 Ride Glenlivet
Glenlivet Estate is part of the Crown Estate and covers 58,000 acres of the Cairngorms National Park. It’s a glorious mixture of wild and managed, with mountains,
moorland and rivers, outstanding purpose-built mountain biking trails, over 20 different waymarked routes for walking or running, and plenty to keep families happy too. Over half of the 14-mile (23km) Red Trail is singletrack, with a predominately smooth surface. Aside from this you’ll find forest road, tough climbs and technical features (all avoidable), all set against a spectacular backdrop. If you’d prefer to find your own way, there are miles and miles of trails across the estate – take a map and go exploring. On-site facilities for cyclists include a bike wash (free), a shop with bike spares, a pump track, bike hire and a café serving great coffee – heaven.
Wild camping is permitted on the Glenlivet Estate but please don’t light fires or pitch near to roads or buildings. There’s also a range of accommodation on the estate, from hotels to a campsite, along with cafés and restaurants. Entry and parking are free.
Challenge level: varies
Location: Glenlivet Estate,
Tomintoul, Ballindalloch, AB37 9EX
Map: OS Explorer OL58
Local Highlights
When in the Highlands… Take a tri
p to the Glenlivet Distillery, open during the summer, to see whisky being made, and even sample a drop.
Trail maps of the estate are available online should you want to plan your adventure in advance (www.glenlivetestate.co.uk).
25 Explore the Caledonian Rainforest
Many consider Rothiemurchus to be one of the finest examples of a Caledonian pine forest in Scotland. It’s a special place – described by David Attenborough as ‘one of the glories of wild Scotland’ – and was owned by the Grant family for 500 years before being sold in 2014 to the Forestry Commission, which now manages it carefully to preserve this precious piece of the country’s history.
A temperate rainforest by definition, this is a unique environment in which species found nowhere else in the British Isles breed. These include the western capercaillie, the common goldeneye, the European crested tit, the parrot crossbill and the Scottish crossbill.
Loch an Eilein lies hidden deep within the forest, a small, peaceful loch with an island topped with a ruined 15th-century castle. There’s a lovely walk around the edge of the loch, and a network of trails leads off into the wider estate to be explored, either on foot or by bike. Bike hire is available from the Rothiemurchus Centre on site.