by Jen Benson
Challenge level:
Location: Loch an Eilein car park, PH22 1QT
OS grid ref: NH 897085
Map: OS Explorer OL57
Local Highlights
The neighbouring pinewoods at Glen Feshie are also well worth a visit.
Camp within the forest at the excellent Rothiemurchus campsite (www.campandcaravan.com).
The estate farm shop sells everything you need for a perfect picnic.
26 Traverse the Cairngorms
Two parallel glaciated valleys run north–south across the Cairngorm plateau, linking Speyside with Deeside. To the west is Lairig Ghru – an ancient drovers’ road that rises to 2,740 feet (835m), taking in some truly wild and remote sections and passing below the western slopes of Ben Macdui – a tough but classic crossing. To the east is Lairig an Laoigh, a lesser-known and gentler path following Glen Derry and winding through pinewoods and over bleak moorlands. There are several river crossings that may be impassable after heavy rain, so time your trip carefully.
A full circuit making a double crossing of the Cairngorms using these two historical routes is an outstanding, challenging adventure. At around 18 miles (30km) a day, you could do it over a weekend if you’re running/fastpacking, with a night at the outdoor centre at Glenmore Lodge. Or walk it with a lightweight tent and wild camp along the way for a more relaxed exploration of the area.
The routes: both routes run north–south between Glenmore Lodge and Linn of Dee, and the circuit can be started and finished at either end. Buses run to Aviemore, where there’s a railway station.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Glenmore Lodge, Aviemore,
PH22 1QZ
OS grid ref: NH 986094 or Linn of Dee, AB35 5YG
OS grid ref: NO 062897
Distance: 18 miles/29km each way or 36 miles/58km round trip
Maps: OS Explorer OL57 and OL58
Local Highlights
Glenmore Lodge offers a vast range of expert-guided outdoor adventures, including mountain biking, climbing, kayaking and skiing (glenmorelodge.org.uk).
The local mountain race takes on Lairig Ghru, traversing the 43km between the police stations at Aviemore and Braemar. Held annually in June, it raises funds for the Cairngorm Mountain Rescue Team.
27 The Speyside Way
One of four official Long Distance Routes in Scotland, the 65-mile (105km) Speyside Way follows the Spey Valley from Aviemore in the northern Cairngorms to the Moray Firth at Spey Bay. It then continues a short distance eastwards along the coast to Buckie. It is a truly epic walk from the mountains to the sea (or from the sea to the mountains), with many wonderful spots along the way for swimming in the ever-present Spey and wild camping on its peaceful shores. For this very reason we’d recommend not attempting it during the peak of the midge season – July and August.
The official guide breaks the distance down into eight stages based on the primary towns and villages along the way: Buckie – Spey Bay – Fochabers – Craigellachie – Ballindalloch – Grantown – Nethy Bridge – Boat of Garten – Aviemore. It also works very well to arrive at the towns at lunchtime and spend the nights in the tranquillity of the countryside.
Challenge level:
Start: Aviemore station, PH22 1PD
Finish: Harbour Head, Buckie, Scotland,
AB56 1XR
Distance: 65 miles/105km
Maps: OS Explorer OL57, OL60, OL61
and 424
Local Highlights
Towards the end of the Speyside Way at Spey Bay, 5 miles (8km) short of Buckie, is the Scottish Dolphin Centre and wildlife reserve, a fascinating place to spend a day.
Ride the Moray Monster Trails at Fochabers, 20km of excellent singletrack.
Run the Speyside Way Race, held in August each year over 36½ miles (59km) of the trail (www.speysidewayrace.co.uk).
28 Explore the Findhorn
One of the longest rivers in Scotland, the Findhorn rises in the Monadhliath Mountains and flows through Moray forests and countryside, reaching the sea at the beautiful Findhorn Bay, famous for its biennial arts festival. The eco-village of Findhorn and the nearby Findhorn Foundation are fascinating to visit, along with the wildlife-rich Culbin Forest.
The exciting, changeable nature of the Findhorn River makes it a fantastic destination for watersports; it’s a renowned white water kayaking venue, and stretches are also popular for canyoning, jumping and rafting – there are many slides, chutes and falls along its rocky, winding course. Between the busy spots, however, you’ll find long stretches of deep, calm water, stained tea-coloured by the peaty tannins that give the local whisky its distinctive flavours.
To find the best swimming spots, go to the Logie Steading Visitor Centre, where there’s also a café and farm shop. Daltulich Bridge and Randolph’s Leap with its narrow, rocky chasm are great places to start – but please be aware these are also access points for kayaks. Another great spot for a swim is the beach at OS grid ref NJ 001500, just downstream of the Findhorn’s confluence with the river Divie.
Challenge level: varies
Location: Logie Estate, Forres, Moray,
IV3 36 2QN
Maps: OS Explorer OL61 and 423
Local Highlights
Camp or glamp at Ace Hideaways (www.acehideaways.co.uk) – there’s canyoning, white water rafting, kayaking and cliff jumping available to book on site.
Walk or cycle the Dava Way, 24 miles (39km) of off-road path that follows the course of the Findhorn.
Explore the Logie Estate with its great walks, shops, cafés and heritage centre.
29 Paddle the Ythan
The river Ythan rises at Wells of Ythan near the village of Ythanwells and flows 37 miles (60km) south-eastwards through Aberdeenshire to reach the sea near Newborough. Although it has been known to flood the surrounding areas following heavy rain, the rest of the time it is a wonderfully gentle river to paddle with calm water and high, grassy banks. There are a few islands around Ellon to navigate, but this only adds a little more interest. The Ythan Estuary, the lower reaches of the river, is a Special Protection Area, being a breeding ground for three species of tern.
You can get out either at the Kirkton of Logie Buchan Bridge or at the bridge at Newborough in the estuary, although this second option is exposed and tidal. Please also be considerate of anglers as this is prime fishing territory. How far up you start from depends on how long you have – from Methlick it’s about a 10-mile (16km) paddle, but the stretch from Fyvie is also delightful, adding another 8 miles (13km). Above here it gets a little small.
Challenge level:
Start: Methlick, AB41 7DT
OS grid ref: NJ 857372
Finish: Ythan Estuary, Newburgh, Ellon,
AB41 6BY
OS grid ref: NK 002247
Distance: 10 miles/16km
Maps: OS Explorer 421 and 426
Local Highlights
Camp at the wonderful Ythan Valley Campsite in Ellon, complete with organic bread, free-range eggs and a bush shower… (www.ythanangling.net).
The Redgarth pub in nearby Oldmeldrum serves fantastic local ales and whisky from the village distillery.
30 Coasts & Castles
The Sustrans National Cycle Network Route 1 runs from Dover to Shetland, 1,695 miles (2,728km) along Britain’s east coast. The 172-mile (277km) section between Edinburgh and Aberdeen is also known as the Coasts and Castles route, as it passes several sites of historical interest. Beginning in Edinburgh, it crosses the Firth of Forth into the Kingdom of Fife and then follows the coast north, passing Dunnottar Castle, and ending in Aberdeen. This stretch also forms part of the North Sea Cycle Route, an absolutely epic circumnavigation of the coasts of all the countries bordering the North Sea: Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany, Denmark, Sweden, Norway, England and Scotland – over 3,800 miles (6,120km) of cycling.
The Coasts and Castles route between Dundee and Arbroath is an enjoyable, flat, mainly traffic-free cycle along the
Tay Estuary. It begins under the Tay Road Bridge – bring photographic ID to get through the docks – and passes through Broughty Ferry to Monifieth Traffic-free trails lead over Barry Links to Carnoustie, finishing at Arbroath’s historic harbour.
Challenge level:
Start: under the Tay Road Bridge, Dundee,
DD1 4BY
Finish: Arbroath harbour, DD11 1TD
Distance: 19 miles/30.5km
Maps: Coast & Castles North, AA Cycling
in Scotland, OS Explorer 380 and 382
Local Highlights
Award-winning Arbroath smokies from Iain R Spink have made the town famous, and with good reason (www.arbroathsmokies.net). Smokies are served alongside many other traditional Scottish dishes at The But’n’Ben restaurant in Auchmithie, 3 miles (5km) north of Arbroath.
N orthern Scotland
Deep in the north of Scotland, the mountains get higher, the glens deeper and the rivers wilder. Summer evenings go on for ever, but then so can the rain. Winter is harsh and unforgiving, often lingering long into the year. Long lochs reflect the mood of the sky: joyful blue or grey as granite. There’s a beautiful melancholy here, one that sparks the fire of creativity and adventure.
Lochaber
One of the great outdoor capitals of Britain, Lochaber is home to Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the UK; Glencoe; and the sandy beaches and green landscapes of the Road to the Isles. It also boasts Ardnamurchan, the most westerly point in the British Isles.
The Great Glen & the North-East
The 62-mile (100km) Great Glen is a huge rift valley spanned by several lochs connected by rivers. Loch Ness is undoubtedly the most famous, both for its resident mythical monster and for being huge, containing more water than all the lakes in England and Wales combined.
The North-West
Wild, rugged, spectacular, remote, inspiring, the north-west Highlands are adventurer heaven, with the pale, sandy crescents of the beaches, the rugged mountains that rise from lush, forested glens, the intricate coastline and the rivers that carve through the landscape. This area has also been designated a Geopark by UNESCO in an effort to preserve the unique character of this truly special place.
The Far North
Tucked into the far north-west corner of Scotland, the landscape around Assynt is truly extraordinary. From a vast, undulating moorland, steep-sided mountains rise incongruously from the edges of lochs. The coastline here is spectacular, with rugged cliffs, remote sandy beaches and rocky sea stacks; it’s a great place to watch dolphins and whales too.
1 Paddle Loch Sunart
The Ardnamurchan peninsula is a wild, remote yet beautiful part of the west coast of Scotland. This special area is unspoilt and undisturbed, with a remoteness that makes it feel more like an island. The landscape is surprisingly varied – forest, moorland and hills dotted with many lochs, and then the spectacular coastline scalloped with sandy beaches. Look out for golden eagles soaring high above the trees and for whales and dolphins out in the bays. Loch Sunart, the longest sea loch in Scotland, dominates the western end of the peninsula – it’s 19 miles (31km) long with a number of islands along its length. The largest of these, the 600-acre Carna, has two self-catering properties on it where you can stay and explore the loch at your own pace. The loch is a haven for wildlife and a Marine Protected Area for its rare flame shell beds. Look out for otters too.
The islands of Carna, Oronsay and the petite Risga sit inside the shelter of Loch Sunart and are a relatively easy paddle and wonderful to explore. Heading out into the Irish sea allows you to reach Mull, Coll and Tiree, but these trips are a serious undertaking and require plenty of experience and knowledge of the area. Arisaig Sea Kayak Centre (arisaigseakayakcentre.co.uk) is a local company offering a range of trips with qualified, experienced guides.
Challenge level:
Location: Loch Sunart, Ardnamurchan,
Lochaber, PH36 4HZ
Maps: OS Explorer 383 and 390
Local Highlights
Stay at Ardnamurchan Campsite and Study Centre (www.ardnamurchanstudycentre.co.uk) basic but beautifully positioned, and has internet access.
Visit Ardnamurchan Lighthouse – which also has a café.
Stay on the island of Carna in a self-catering cottage, boat included (www.isleofcarna.co.uk).
2 Explore Knoydart
The Knoydart peninsula is an extraordinary place. Cut off from the UK mainland road network, it is only accessible by boat or on foot. Much of Knoydart is owned and managed by the Knoydart Foundation, a community-run organisation that looks after this special place and its people.
The landscape here is remote, rugged and beautiful, with some challenging mountains along its length, Ladhar Bheinn being the highest point at 3,346 feet (1,020m). The main settlement on Knoydart is the village of Inverie, home to around 120 residents. Here you’ll find the shops, café and pub, and also the pier for access by boat to the peninsula. You’re not allowed to bring cars onto Knoydart, so arrival is either by a 2-day walk with a wild camp – definitely an amazing adventure in its own right – or by ferry from Mallaig. There is a station at Mallaig, so you can travel there by public transport.
There are many wonderful trails to explore by bike – if you don’t take your own, bike hire is available from Knoydart Carbon Cycle, which has a fleet of top-notch steeds for adults and children. Inverie woods has a challenging downhill mountain bike trail, and lots of gentler options too. The three Munros on the peninsula (Ladhar Bheinn, Luinne Bheinn and Meall Buidhe) are all challenging but enjoyable walks, and the views across Knoydart to the Skye Cuillins are worth the climb. The sandy beaches edged by clear blue seas make Knoydart one of the best places in Britain for swimming too; if you’re lucky, you’ll be joined by otters. A great way to experience Knoydart is with an experienced guide. Steven Fallon (www.stevenfallon.co.uk) comes highly recommended.
Challenge level: various
Location: Mallaig,
Knoydart, PH41 4RH
Map: OS Explorer 413
Local Highlights
Pick your own produce from the Community Market Garden, east of Inverie Bay. There’s a snack bar there several days a week too.
Stay at the Knoydart Foundation campsite at Long Beach – and wake up to some of the best views in Britain.
Discover the Road’s End Café in Airor and watch seals, otters and herons at Airor Bay.
3 Ben Nevis by the Carn Mor Dearg arête
Considered to be among the best ridge walks in the country, the Carn Mor Dearg (CMD) arête is somewhere between a technically challenging walk and an easy scramble. This magnificent curving line connects two Munros, its rocky ridgeline taking you to airy positions with stunning views of the cliffs of Ben Nevis; however, there’s very little ground that requires a hands-on approach. If you’re considering climbing Ben Nevis but want a route to the top that’s engaging, inspiring and absolutely an adventure, this is for you. Compared with the popular Mountain Track, it’s in a different league.
The route: from North Face car park near Torlundy, follow the main track, taking the right turn signed ‘Allt a’ Mhuillin’. Keep left at the next two forks and then turn left at a junction signed ‘Allt a’ Mhuillin’. At the next track junction turn right, to stunning views of the Ben. Continue climbing, leaving the forest and heading towards the north face of Ben Nevis. At the next junction turn left up a boggy path towards Carn Mor Dearg. The graceful, curving ridgeline around to the Ben is obvious from here in good weather. Continue up the path, crossing the southern slopes of the mountain before gaining the ridge itself. Follow this until you suddenly find yourself at the summit, usually surrounded by the crowds who have ascended the Mountain Track. The descent is initially via the Mountain Track – in poor visibility navigate carefully between Gardyloo Gully and Five Finger Gully, following a bearing of 231 degrees for 490 feet (150m), and then a bearing of 281 degrees, to pass the most dangerous section. After the zigzags, at OS grid ref NN 147724, turn
right off the main path and follow it to the northern tip of Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe. From here descend steeply on vague paths north-east to join your outward path and return to the start. Described for summer conditions only.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Ben Nevis North Face car park,
Torlundy, PH33 6SW
OS grid ref: NN 145764
Distance: 11 miles/17.5km
Map: OS Explorer 392
Local Highlights
Stay at Great Glen Yurts in Torlundy, waking up to views of Ben Nevis (www.greatglenyurts.com).
Visit the Ben Nevis Inn, a converted barn at the start of the mountain path right at the foot of the Ben – the inn serves food and there’s also a bunkhouse (www.ben-nevis-inn.co.uk).
4 Ride Fort William
Home of the UCI Mountain Bike World Cup, Fort William has to be the most famous downhill mountian biking venue in Britain. At the Nevis Range Mountain Experience you can take a test run on the famous downhill course, graded orange extreme. If you’re after something a bit gentler but still a thrilling ride, there’s the Red Giant XC course. Both of these courses begin at the Gondola, at over 1,970 feet (600m), and there’s a charge for the uplift to get you there.
Further down in the forested foothills, but still offering outstanding riding, are the Witch’s Trails. There’s the family-friendly 4½-mile (7.1km) Broomstick Blue that follows the river Lundy along winding singletrack; the 5¼-mile (8.5km) red-graded Witch’s World Champs, built for the 2007 World Championships, with plenty of technical features and nearly 900 feet (270m) of climbing; the 6¼-mile (10km) red-graded 10 Under the Ben, 6¼ miles (10km) of singletrack and forest road; plus the affectionately named ‘Nessie’, a fast and furious snaking descent. There are also the Cat’s Eyes and Blue Adder XC descent routes. It’s free to ride the Witch’s Trails, but there is a charge for parking.