The Adventurer's Guide to Britain
Page 16
Challenge level: various
Location: Nevis Range Ski
Centre, Fort William,
PH33 6SQ
Map: OS Explorer 392
Local Highlights
Camp or go self-catering at the excellent Glen Nevis campsite, a perfect adventure base (www.glen-nevis.co.uk).
Over the winter there’s skiing and snowboarding from the ski centre (www.nevisrange.co.uk).
5 Swim to Morar Bay
The Silver Sands of Morar, a series of beautiful white sand beaches with fine views out to Skye, Eigg and Rum, dot the coastline between Arisaig and Morar, and a walk – or swimrun – along this extraordinary trail is a must. The river Morar, which links Loch Morar with the sea, is one of Scotland’s shortest rivers, at around half a mile (0.8km) long, and its lower reaches make for a fine access point to the bay.
Park at the designated parking area on the B8008 at Morar Beach, where the estuary makes a wide sweep edged by fine white sand. Get in here and swim downstream towards the sea, exploring the inlets and coves as you go. The final section takes you out into the sea at breathtaking Morar Bay, from where you can spend the day exploring the rest of the Silver Sands.
Challenge level:
Location: Morar Beach car park, PH39 4NT
OS grid ref: NM 675921
Map: OS Explorer 398
Local Highlights
Stay at the Camusdarach campsite (www.camusdarach.co.uk), with superb views and direct access to the beaches.
Pick up a picnic from the Ardshealach Smokehouse in nearby Glenuig.
Hop on a ferry from Arisaig to go island hopping around the Small Isles.
6 Paddle the Great Glen Canoe Trail
The Great Glen Canoe Trail follows the route of the Caledonian Canal along the Great Glen for over 60 miles (97km) and is Scotland’s first official canoeing trail. Running from Fort William to Inverness, there are 22 miles (35km) of paddling on canal and the rest is across the series of lochs, exploring these incredible bodies of wildlife-rich water from within. There are several portages along the route which you’ll need to negotiate, but they are all straightforward. The trip is generally broken down into five sections, with stops where there are easy exit/launch spots and facilities; five days also makes a nice length of time to paddle, with a day or two at either end for arrival and departure. The sections are: Fort William – Gairlochy – Loch Oich – Foyers – Dochgarroch – Inverness. You can, of course, paddle it in fewer sections, but if you do, we’d recommend running official sections together for logistical simplicity. Register with Scottish Canals for a free licence to paddle before you set out. There are several hire and guiding companies in the area.
Challenge level:
Start: Lochy Bridge, Fort William, PH33 6TJ
Finish: Inverness station, IV1 1LF
Distance: 62 miles/100km
Maps: OS Explorer 392, 400 and 416
Local Highlights
Paddle the Great Glen Canoe Trail as a 5-day holiday with great company and experienced guides through Wilderness Scotland (www.wildernessscotland.com).
Explore Loch Ness and the atmospheric ruins of Urquhart Castle which stood proud at the water’s edge through 500 years of conflict.
7 Bikepack the Great Glen Way
Aside from the shortest route between Fort William and Inverness – straight down the middle along the water – there are also two other ways of traversing the Great Glen. The walking route begins at the end of the West Highland Way, so it’s a popular extension for those who want to see more of Scotland. There’s also an outstanding 73-mile (118km) cycling route, waymarked throughout, that, unusually for a long-distance trail, is only suitable for mountain bikes. It takes in much of the higher ground along the Glen, climbing through pinewoods where deer graze peacefully between the trees, and descending steeply to discover interesting settlements. It’s also a sociable route, popular with cyclists and also coinciding with the walking trail at times, and you meet plenty of locals too. It is all these features making it completely and utterly different from the Great Glen Canoe Trail that earn it a separate listing here. Were it not between the same towns, you’d rarely know you were on the same stretch of the country.
You can, of course, simply turn up with your bike at either Fort William or Inverness and set out on the trail. There are several options for overnight stops – most three-day itineraries break at Fort Augustus on the first night and at Drumnadrochit on the second – or you could go for it in one. You could also bikepack the trail, complete with camping kit, stopping for a wild camp wherever you choose. Ticket to Ride (www.tickettoridehighlands.co.uk) offers one-way bike hire and guiding, while Wilderness Scotland (www.wildernessscotland.com) offers a 5-day guided tour of the area, including a full crossing of the Great Glen.
Challenge level:
Start: Fort William station, PH33 6TQ
Finish: Inverness station, IV1 1LF
Distance: 73 miles/118km
Maps: OS Explorer 392, 400 and 416
Local Highlights
Eat, sleep and enjoy a warm welcome, whatever the weather, at Abriachan Eco-Campsite & Café. Located at the highest inhabited croft in Scotland it is open every day all year round.
The Velocity Café and Bicycle Workshop in Inverness is a social enterprise ‘working to promote healthy, happy lifestyles through cycling’ and well worth a visit for a bicyclatte, or a campagcinno (velocitylove.co.uk).
8 The Falls of Orrin
The river Orrin rises in the East Monar Forest and winds its way east through the Strathconon and Corriehallie forests to its confluence with the river Conon, 5 miles (8km) south-west of Dingwall. Just to the west of Muir of Ord are the Falls of Orrin, a delightful, tumbling series of waterfalls in a secluded wooded area. You’ll often spot salmon leaping here – in fact it is said that the record for the highest leap by a salmon was set here, at over 11 feet (3.5m). There is space to park just off the road on the south side of the river at Aultgowrie, just before the bridge. From here it is a short walk upstream to the falls, and above the falls there are wide pools for swimming, with a shingle beach for access. The pool and river below the falls have some great spots too, and a little further downstream is a shingly area perfect for paddling. There’s a wonderful walk that takes in the falls and the nearby ruins of Fairburn Tower, starting at the car park and heading upstream as far as Stronachroe. Cross at the bridge here and follow the river back down the other side, through pretty woodland back to the falls. Fairburn Tower is just north of the falls from here, or cross back over the road bridge at Aultgowrie.
Challenge level:
Location: Aultgowrie, IV6 7XA
OS grid ref: NH 476514
Map: OS Explorer 431
Local Highlights
Visit the nearby village of Muir of Ord, where you’ll find the Glen Ord distillery.
Stop for picnic provisions at Black Isle Berries at Ryefield Farm, Tore – you’ll find a range of locally sourced produce, as well as pick-your-own berries.
Pitch up at the Loch Ness Shores Camping & Caravanning Club site (nonmembers welcome), an eco-friendly site on the peaceful southern shores of the loch, set in spectacular surroundings. Also a great stopover along the Great Glen Way.
9 Ride the Black Isle
The Black Isle isn’t really an island at all. It’s a peninsula, bounded on three sides by water – the Cromarty Firth to the north, the Beauly Firth to the south, and the Moray Firth to the east. This is a place of wild coastal landscapes and rolling hills, dotted with forests and castles, and networked with tracks, trails and quiet roads to explore. It is named for its contrast with the surrounding areas in winter when snow doesn’t lie here so it looks black against the surrounding white highlands. On the southern side of the Black Isle, Chanonry Point is a great place to see dolphins.
Cycling is the way to get around here and there are trails everywhere, from quiet rides exploring the villages and breweries to the more technical off-road
trails.
The 26-mile (42km) Beauly Firth Loop is mostly on road, but it’s a perfect way to explore the south of the Black Isle. Starting at Inverness, it follows a waymarked loop along the banks of the firth, visiting the villages of Beauly and Muir of Ord before taking in the full southern coast of the Black Isle to North Kessock, finishing with the bridge back across to Inverness. Look out for seals and dolphins as you go – and did we mention the breweries?
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Inverness station, IV1 1LF
Distance: 26 miles/42km
Map: OS Explorer 432
Local Highlights
The Black Isle Brewery makes craft organic beer and the results are excellent. As well as a shop there’s a wood-fired pizza oven and 14 en-suite rooms, and they’re open all year (www.blackislebrewery.com).
Head to Learnie Red Rock Mountain Bike Trail Centre where you’ll find three purpose-built waymarked trails with something to suit every level of rider.
10 Paddle Loch Maree
Loch Maree lies in Wester Ross just north of Torridon. It is 12 miles (19km) long and 4 miles (6.4km) wide, making it the largest freshwater loch north of Loch Ness. Loch Maree is scattered with densely wooded islands, the remnants of ancient Caledonian pine forests. There are over 60 islands in total, with five larger ones, including Isle Maree, which was once inhabited and has the remains of a chapel and a graveyard on it. The largest of the islands, Eilean Subhain, has a lochan within it, and on this lochan is an island, the only such arrangement known to exist in the UK.
This is an internationally important area for wildlife, and Beinn Eighe, on its southern shores, is the UK’s oldest National Nature Reserve. One of the best ways to explore the loch and its islands is by kayak or paddleboard, and a trip out to wind your way between the green-topped islets is a great way to spend a day. Many of the islands have restrictions at certain times of the year, so check locally before landing on any of them; you could start at the Loch Maree Hotel, but please don’t park here without asking permission. The parking area at Slattadale is a good place to put in. Wilderness Scotland (www.wildernessscotland.com) will take you out for an expert-guided paddle on the loch, but be aware that midges can be very bad during July/August.
Challenge level:
Location: Loch Maree, Gairloch, IV22 2HL
OS grid ref: NG 929716
Map: OS Explorer 433
Local Highlights
Considered to be one of the least polluted bodies of fresh water in the country, Loch Maree is a wonderful place for a swim. It’s a straightforward swim out to the islands and a great way to visit them – but the loch is cold and deep, so a wetsuit is recommended.
Visit Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve on the southeastern edge of the loch. Good paths lead up past waterfalls to the viewpoint and cairn at around 1,800 feet (550m) (OS grid ref: NG 993632) – there are also a couple of stunning remote lochs here to explore.
Refuel at the unique Badachro Inn on Loch Gairloch (badachroinn.filmdesign.org.uk).
11 Traverse the Glen Shiel Ridge
The glorious Glen Shiel Ridge rises and falls across a 9-mile (14.4km) stretch of the Highlands between Loch Cluanie in the southeast and Loch Duich in the north-west. One of the absolute classic walks in this part of the country, it follows an airy line, with the occasional bit of easy scrambling, over no less than seven Munros. At nearly 17 miles (27km), it’s a good day’s walk, and a few hours of running, but it’s well worth it. This is a linear route, so you’ll need to arrange transport back along the A87 through Glen Shiel.
The route: start by following the old private road between Cluanie and Tomdoun, which you can reach just east of the Cluanie Inn. Continue along this, zigzagging up to the summit of Creag a’ Mhaim. The ridge and path from here are clear and fairly straightforward to follow in good conditions, climbing to the summit of each Munro and descending between them. After the final summit, Creag nan Damh (hard work at this point), follow a vague path marked by cairns as it winds down the northern slope, following the western bank of Allt Mhalagain. Cross a footbridge at the bottom to return you to the A87, about 6 miles (9.6km) from your start point.
Challenge level:
Start: Cluanie Inn, Glenmoriston, IV63 7YW
Finish: Glen Shiel
OS grid ref: NG 970139
Map: OS Explorer 414
Local Highlights
Stay at Shiel Lodge on the Glenshiel Estate. Sleeping up to 16 it’s the perfect base for exploring the area and stands overlooking the River Shiel and at the head of Loch Duich, home to the ruined 13th-century Eilean Donan Castle (www.glenshielestate.com).
The Five Sisters of Kintail is another classic walk in this area, taking in the six(!) Munros on the opposite site of the glen.
12 A Torridon Weekend
The Torridon Hills, a spectacular jagged range, rise to the north of Glen Torridon, with exhilarating walking and scrambling leading to their high summits and ridges. Perhaps the best known of these mountains is Liathach, whose twin peaks rise gracefully from the glen, offering splendid views of the surrounding hills and across to Skye. An ascent of Liathach is reason enough to visit this beautiful part of Scotland; however, there are some excellent, and quite different, adventures to be had further along the Glen too. On reaching Loch Torridon by car, turn right onto a minor road that skirts the northern shore of the lake. Continue along this road as it turns inland and climbs steeply. At OS grid ref NG 806603 you will come to a small double loch – the second of which is Loch a’ Mhullaich. Easily accessible from the road on its northern shore, this is a fine loch for a swim. Afterwards, carry on along the road until it ends at Lower Diabaig, where you’ll need to leave your car. Continue on foot along a well-maintained footpath to Craig Bothy (OS grid ref: NG 774638), a former youth hostel that can comfortably sleep six. Further on from here, at Red Point, there are two spectacular sandy beaches, also perfect for exploring and swimming. Torridon Stores and Café in Torridon village (www.torridonstoresandcafe.co.uk) is open Monday to Saturday in summer and on selected days in winter.
Challenge level: various
Location: Torridon village, IV22 2EZ
OS grid ref: NG 897563
Maps: OS Explorer 428, 429 and 433
Local Highlights
As an alternative to the bothy there’s a campsite at Torridon village, as well as the shop and café.
You can also approach Craig Bothy from the north. Both the Tigh an Eilean Hotel in Shieldaig and the Badachro Inn on Loch Gairloch are well worth a visit.
WildBike run guided rides and mountain biking holidays in Torridon and across Britain (www.wildbike.co.uk).
13 Cycle the Bealach Mor circuit
A classic ride on the cyclosportive calendar, organised by Hands On Events (www.handsonevents.co.uk), this 90-mile (145km) circuit crosses the famous mountain pass Bealach na Bà to Applecross and is considered one of the toughest circular road routes in the country. The biggest road climb in the UK, it takes in 2,054 feet (626m) of climbing in just 10km of road. Though the climb is leg-sapping, the outstanding views and the feeling of accomplishment at the top are well worth the effort. The organised sportive takes place each September, but you can, of course, test yourself on this infamous route at any time.
The route: Kinlochewe – A832 east to Achnasheen – right to Lochcarron via the A890 – descend through Kishorn – turn right over the bridge. Seven miles (11km) of climbing followed by long descent into Applecross village. Go around Applecross Bay, following the edge of the peninsula to picturesque Shieldaig. Follow the southern shore of Loch Torridon before the final stretch through Glen Torridon to Kinlochewe.
Challenge level:
Start/finish: Kinlochewe, Achnasheen,
IV22 2PB
Distance: 90 miles/145km
Maps: OS Explorer 428, 429, 430, 433,
435 and 436
Local Highlights
The Applecross peninsula lies between the mountains of the
mainland and the Isle of Skye. It’s a sparsely populated and remote place with wild open landscapes and a spectacular rugged coastline. Camp at Applecross Campsite, sample local delicacies from Applecross Ices and the Smokehouse and enjoy the incredible running, wildlife-watching, kayaking and swimming all around the peninsula.
14 Discover the Old Man of Stoer
The Old Man of Stoer is a towering 200-foot (60m) sea stack of Torridonian sandstone, once a rocky archway across to the mainland, but now a tall, thin island. Rising from the waves in the Minch, just off the Assynt coast, the stack is a popular climbing venue. A Tyrolean traverse is required to reach it, and if there’s not one in place when you get there, then someone has to swim out to the stack first. Other than to note that it’s an incredible place to climb, with several superb routes for the mid-to-high-grade trad climber, it is well beyond the scope of this book to go into details. There is, however, a wonderful loop to walk – or run – that takes in the Old Man and the nearby countryside.
The route: from Stoer Head Lighthouse, follow signed path to the Old Man of Stoer, ascending steadily on good, runnable tracks alongside the rugged coast with spectacular views emerging all around. Continue northeast along the coast to reach the Point of Stoer. Return south across the rugged lowlands of Sidhean Mor, with fine views of the Sutherland coast and mountains of Assynt. Follow paths past a ruined WWII radar station back to start.