The Language of Food: A Linguist Reads the Menu

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The Language of Food: A Linguist Reads the Menu Page 26

by Dan Jurafsky


  ganache, 130, 141

  Gargantua and Pantagruel (Rabelais), 136

  garos, garum, 53, 128

  Gay Pride parade, 116

  Geenberg, Katherine Rose, 165

  General History of the Things of New Spain (Sahagún), 80

  genetics, in smell perception, 98

  Genghis Khan, 152

  Gerbet, Claude, 141

  Germany, culinary contributions from, 19–20, 49, 70, 87, 122, 124

  gin, 56

  Glasse, Hannah, 46, 47, 196

  gnocchi, 136

  Golden Gate Bakery, 90

  Google Ngram corpus, 33–34, 105, 141, 193, 196

  Gopnik, Adam, 102

  Grace Countess Granville’s Receipt Book, 145

  “grammar of cuisine” theory, 177–78, 180–85

  grapes, for wine, 71–73

  Great American Music Hall, 28–29

  Greece, ancient, 53, 71–72, 74, 78, 122, 132, 134, 136, 146, 160, 172, 177

  Green Goddess Dressing, recipe for, 126

  green sauce, 124–27

  Grice, H. Paul, 18–19, 110, 189, 192

  group cooking, 187–88

  gruel, 134

  Guangdong province, 51–52

  Guangxi province, 50

  Guide Culinaire, Le (Escoffier), 31

  guild of limonadiers, 150

  guinea fowl, 85–87, 91, 199

  gula melaka, 181

  gunpowder, 151, 153

  Gutíerrez de Santa Clara, Pedro, 44

  Hale, Sarah Josepha, 88

  ham, 127

  Hardly Strictly Bluegrass, 107

  Harris, Emmy Lou, 107

  Harun al-Rashid, 39

  health:

  in Chinese cooking, 183

  marketing appeal to, 5, 109–10, 114, 115, 118

  toasting to, 65–67, 70–72, 74, 77

  Heinz, 60–61

  Hellman, Warren, 107, 116

  Henry IV, Part I (Shakespeare), 86

  Henry VII, King of England, 69

  Henry VIII, King of England, 46

  herbs, in beverages, 74, 76–77

  Hermogenes, 160

  Herodotus, 172

  heung (smells good), 97

  Hilton, Chris, 50

  hiphop culture, 77

  hippocras, 171

  Histoire de la Nature des Oyseaux, L’ (Belon), 87

  Histories (Herodotus), 172

  History of Medicine (Uyn al-nb; Ibn Ab Uaybi’a), 151

  hlaf-dige, 118

  hlaf-weard, 118

  Hmong-Mien, 50

  Hokkien language, 54–55, 195

  Holland:

  in Asian trade, 56, 62

  culinary contributions from, 123, 124

  Homer, 72

  Hong Kong, 97

  hops, 64, 69

  hors d’oeuvres, 25–26, 28

  Huang Hsing-tsung, 195

  Humphry Slocombe, 144, 171

  Ibn Ab Uaybi’a, 151

  Ibn Bakhtawayh, 151

  Ibn Hayyan, 173

  Ibn Shahriyar, Buzurg, 40

  ice, in cooling, 148, 149, 151

  ice cream, 3, 155, 176, 185, 189

  evolving technology of, 144–58

  fad for unusual flavors in, 144–45, 171, 184

  recipes for, 145–46

  sound symbolism in names of, 162–64, 163, 167

  ice creameries, 144–45

  icehouses, 148

  Idrisi, Muhammad al-, 134–35

  Illinois language, 90

  imitation foods, 19, 59, 196

  independent self, 116

  India, 78, 151–52

  trade with, 38, 40, 57, 61, 83–84

  India Pale Ale, 65

  Indo-Europeans, 71–72, 74

  Indonesia, 55, 57

  Industrial Revolution, 62

  information theory, 13

  interdependent self, 116

  Internet, 8, 10, 13

  recipes on, 182

  restaurant reviews on, 92–106

  see also specific sites

  isicia, 127

  Islam, spread of, 38–42, 48, 130–32, 146

  issue de table, 24

  Italy, culinary contributions from, 33, 34, 35, 42, 65, 89, 123, 124–25, 131, 136, 139, 142, 153–55, 178–79

  itria, 134

  Jakobson, Roman, 161

  Japan, culinary contributions from, 36, 45–46, 48, 49, 51, 63, 179

  Java, 56–57, 62

  Jerome, Saint, 74–75

  Jesperson, Otto, 161

  Jesuits, 45–46

  Jewish Cookery Book (Levy), 140–41

  Jewish Manual, A (Montefiore), 47

  Jewish recipes for fish, 46–48

  Jews, 36, 40, 65, 107, 117, 122, 132, 148

  culinary contributions of, 46–48, 73–74, 128, 130, 135, 140, 182, 194, 204

  John of Caput, 37

  julep, as term, 157

  junk foods:

  craving for, 102, 108, 118

  linguistics in marketing of, 107–16

  Kalm, Pehr, 124

  Kam tribe, 50–51

  Kanz Al-Fawa’id Fi Tanwi’ Al Mawa’id, or The Treasury of Useful Advice for the Composition of a Varied Table, 40–41

  Katz, Joshua, 90

  kasuzuke (Japanese dish), 52

  Kelis, 103

  kecap, 55

  ketchup, 47, 57, 59–63, 79, 130, 143, 159, 184, 185, 188, 189, 196

  and Chinese economic history, 61–62

  linguistic roots of, 1–2, 49–50, 54–55, 57, 60–61

  plate of, for dinner, 114

  recipes for, 59–60

  U.S. production of, 60–61

  kettle corn, 107

  Khosrau I Anushirvan, Shahanshah of Persia, 36–39, 37, 131

  Kitb al-Tabkh (Book of Cookery, The; al-Warrq), 39, 131, 173

  Kitb al-Tabkh (Book of Dishes, The; al-Baghdadi), 131

  Kitab al-Wusla, 125

  Klein, Sarah, 117

  Klink, Richard, 162

  Köhler, Wolfgang, 166

  Korea, food vocabulary of, 103

  Kurlansky, Mark, 188

  lactic acid, 50

  Ladies’ Home Journal, The, 89

  Ladurée pastry shop, 141

  La Fontaine, Jean de, 38

  Lakoff, Robin, 11

  language:

  change in, 31–33, 95

  cuisine compared to, 177–78, 181

  evolutionary origin of, 169–70

  pronunciation in, 90, 161–62, 165, 181

  Language Log, 163

  La Oaxaqueña, 82

  Laos, 50, 51

  Larousse Gastronomique, 31, 33, 138–39

  lasagne, as term, 134, 135

  La Taqueria, 92

  Latin, 43, 71, 120, 122, 123, 126, 127, 132, 148

  Laudan, Rachel, 143

  lauznaj, 3, 131–34, 137, 143, 172, 173

  recipe for, 131

  La Varenne, François Pierre de, 25, 42, 137–38, 146

  leavening, 117, 208

  Lee, Jennifer 8., 179

  Lehrer, Adrienne, 100

  lemonade, 144, 156, 157, 158

  recipes for, 150–51, 156

  lemons, 30, 43, 57, 149–50

  etymology of word, 206

  Lent, 42, 135, 189

  Leskovec, Jure, 93

  Lévi-Strauss, Claude, 183

  Levitt, Steven, 16

  Levy, Esther, 140

  Lewis, Edna, 91

  libations, 72–73, 77

  Liberman, Mark, 18, 163

  Libro de Cozina (de Nola), 174

  Lime Syrup (Sharbat-e ablimu), recipe for, 148–49

  Lincoln, Abraham, 88

  “linguistic fillers,” 15–17, 20

  Linneaus, Carl, 87

  liquid nitrogen, 151

  Liuqiu Guo Shi Lue (Account of the Ryukyu Islands; Zhao Huang), 54

  Livre Fort Excellent de Cuysine Tres-Utile et Profitable, 24

  Llibre del Coch (
Master Robert), 43

  Lloyd, Martha, 60

  locavores, 9–10

  Locke, John, 160

  Lockyer, Charles, 57–59, 58, 61, 196

  lohusa erbet, 150

  Louis XIV, King of France, 138

  love, use of term, 95

  Macao, 89–90

  macaroni, 3, 7, 8, 204

  linguistic history of, 130–43

  Macaroni, The (Dawe), 142

  macaroni and cheese, 143

  macaronic French, 7–8, 20, 143, 191

  macaronic verse, 7, 136, 204

  Macaroni Journal, 135

  Macaronis, 141–42, 142

  macarons, 3, 8, 130, 138–39, 138, 141, 143, 188

  macaroons, 3, 159, 184–85, 189, 205

  linguistic history of, 130–43

  recipes for, 137, 138, 140–41

  Maclay, William, 176

  Mad Men, 114

  Magia Naturalis (Della Porta), 154

  Mahabharata, 152

  main course, as term, 34

  Maison des Soeurs Macarons bakery, 138

  Maison Reglée, La (Audiger), 150

  makaria, 134, 136

  malic acid, 157

  Malin, Joseph, 48

  maluma/takete (bouba/kiki) experiment, 166–69, 168, 207

  manchet, 121

  Mandarin Chinese, 54, 55, 97, 179, 195

  Manischewitz, 140

  Mann, Charles, 63

  Manuscrito Anonimo, 174

  Marcus, Hazel Rose, 116

  Maria Theresa, Infanta of Spain, 138

  Maritime Silk Road, 53

  marked words, 105–6

  marketing:

  of junk foods, 107–16

  linguistic status clues in, 9, 110–16, 159

  to the masses, 113–15

  through sound symbolism, 161–67

  to wealthy clientele, 110–13

  see also advertising techniques

  marmalade, 146–47, 157, 185, 189

  recipes for, 147

  Martellotti, Anna, 43

  Martha Washington’s Booke of Cookery, 137

  Martino, Maestro, 132–33, 136

  marzipan, marzapane, 132–34, 135, 142

  recipe for, 133

  Mason Adam pâtisserie, 138

  matzo, 48

  Maven, 65, 77

  “maxim of quantity,” 18

  “maxim of relevance,” 18

  Mayhew, Henry, 121, 156

  mayonnaise, 126

  McAuley, Julian, 93

  McGovern, Patrick, 71

  McKean, Erin, 95

  meals, order of courses at, 3–4, 5, 21–34, 27, 171–80

  meats:

  preserved, 127

  savory and sweet, 174–75, 177

  meat stew, 39, 42

  medicine, food as, 148, 155, 157, 176

  Meleager (Sophocles), 78, 87, 91

  meleagris, 87, 199

  membrillo, 146

  Menagier de Paris, Le, 125

  Menon, Geeta, 162–63, 207

  menus:

  author’s linguistic study of, 10–20, 93, 112, 191

  historical perspective of, 7–8, 19–20, 130, 172

  linguistic status clues in, 5, 7–20, 111, 143, 159

  modern, 20, 34

  New York Public Library collection of, 8

  origin and etymology of, 26

  for Washington’s inauguration, 176

  Merry Wives of Windsor, The (Shakespeare), 66

  Mesopotamia, 36–41, 72–73, 148

  Methodus Refrigerandi ex Vocato Sale Nitro Vinum Aquamque (Villafranca), 153

  meunière, 123

  Mexico, culinary contributions from, 3, 79–81, 112, 124, 182, 188

  Meyers, Cindy, 138

  michelada, recipe for, 64

  Mill, 66

  milling, 118, 123, 129

  Ming dynasty, 61

  mining, 35–36, 57, 62

  salt, 118

  Mintz, Sidney W., 177

  miso, 51

  Misra, Reeva, 166–67

  Mitchell’s, 145

  Moche, 44, 48

  modernist cuisine, 184

  molasses, 181–82

  mole, 80–83

  molecular gastronomy, 144

  mole poblano de guajolote (Turkey with Puebla Mole), recipe for, 81–83, 91, 198

  Mon-Khmer, 50–51

  Montefiore, Judith Cohen, 47

  Morat’s, 150

  Morton, Eugene, 164–65

  Moss, Michael, 108

  mouth feel, vocabulary for, 96, 103

  Mr. and Mrs. Miscellaneous, 145, 145

  Mughals, 152, 157

  mushrooms, in ketchup, 59–60

  music, dessert association in, 103

  Music Box, 28

  Mutawakkil, al-, 40

  Nahuatl, 79, 81

  naming, sound connotation in, 159–70

  nam pla, 53

  narezushi, 51

  Nasrallah, Nawal, 39

  Native Americans, 79, 88, 90, 91

  naturalism, 159

  Natvrall and Artificial Directions for Health (Vaughan), 176

  Neckam, Alexander, 127

  negative bias, 98, 99, 104

  negative differentiation, 96, 99, 100, 112–13

  negative emotional words, negative sentiment words, 94–96

  as expressed in stories, 98–99

  Neige de Fleur D’orange, recipe for, 146

  New World:

  cultural sharing in, 43–44, 80–83, 88–89, 91

  turkeys in, 79–83, 88–91

  Ngo, Mary Kim, 166–67

  97 Orchard: An Edible History of Five Immigrant Families (Ziegleman), 20

  Ninkasi, 73

  Noah hypothesis, 71–72

  Nola, Roberto de, 174

  noodles, 134–35

  Normans, 118–19, 126, 132, 142, 152, 174

  Nostradamus, 135–36

  nougats, 131, 143

  Nouvelle Cuisine, 177

  Nowru-z (Persian New Year), 130, 131

  nuns, 81, 138, 188

 

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