India
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LifeForce has a litter patrol and tries to educate both the local population and visitors how persistent and widespread litter produces a breeding ground for harmful bacteria, which causes death of animals and despoils the natural beauty. The charity gives strategic support for the tribal people and villagers as part of community-based conservation. This year alone, ten tube wells have been drilled to provide water for drinking, bathing and irrigation. In areas where tube well bores did not find water, stop dams and lakes, provided by Lifeforce, have served the same purpose.
During the LifeForce medical camp in the forest, when over 600 people were treated by four doctors from Mumbai, it became apparent that a basic knowledge of hygiene, nutrition and malaria could prevent many problems. As a result LifeForce has organised, funded and delivered Health and Hygiene Workshops to the tribal people as part of eco-development programmes to encourage and establish co-operation between the Forest Department and the villagers. The Forest Department has been very supportive of all these initiatives. The charity even arranges for the attendance of a female gynaecologist.
Graham and I are only too well aware how all this takes huge effort and organisation and the charity has very modest funds but is run by someone who is dedicated and passionate about his work. He firmly believes that only by helping the local human population to thrive through simple education will one convince them not to prey on the wildlife and not to be seduced by the expedient idea of poaching. The key stone for conservation is education and provision of fundamentals such as medicine so that local doctors can treat the tribals and scheduled caste peoples.
Pachmarhi is a good destination in the winter months for those seeking a trekking destination perhaps with wildlife excursions. We were going to go and stay at LifeForce’s simple camp but shortage of funds has resulted in this being closed down. However, there are a number of small guest houses and hotels and I would say that this is an attractive destination for those who like going off the beaten track.
Driving on to Bhopal, we became thoughtful about the infamous tragedy that took place there in 1984, when thousands of people were gassed and even more thousands died of respiratory complications in the following years. The deserted forlorn complex that belongs to Union Carbide still stands on the main approach road. This was the world’s worst industrial disaster. Late at night on 2nd December 1984 a lethal cloud of methyl isocynate (MIC), a toxic chemical used in the manufacture of pesticides, exploded. A few weeks ago, on the Discovery Channel, Graham and I watched a documentary detailing the events that led up to the disaster and how fundamental safety regulations were ignored and the management were known to be negligent. A cost-cutting exercise to reduce the daily costs of maintaining the chemical at a temperature of zero degrees was introduced; this saved $40 per day. This is a highly reactive chemical and by reducing the pressure, the danger was heightened and then water entered Tank 610 through badly maintained and leaking valves. This combination triggered a massive reaction. The explosion was dispersed on the cool winds of the night throughout the densely populated residential districts and shanty settlements. Official figures appeared to minimise the enormity of the disaster but it is now known that at least 1600 people died instantly and 6000 died in the aftermath but that figure has now risen to 20,000 years after the incident. Over 500,000 people were exposed to the gas, of whom about one-fifth have been left with chronic respiratory problems. This was not a nuclear accident like Chernobyl but its consequences have been just as awful with health problems being inherited by children born after the disaster.
Whilst we were in Bhopal, Greenpeace activists tried to enter the premises of the Union Carbide complex but were arrested. The plan had been to enter the factory complex and start cleaning the poisonous chemicals which are still allegedly contaminating the environment and drinking water of the area. Even 20 years after the gas tragedy, there are several thousands of tons of lethal, poisonous chemicals lying around in the factory. This is all seeping into the ground, spreading at a minimum rate of 300 metres to 700 metres radius per year. As I said earlier, by now at least 20,000 people have been directly affected. Despite the campaigners’ best efforts, neither Union Carbide, nor Dow Chemical Company, a US multinational which acquired the Union Carbide company in February of 2001, or the state government of Madhya Pradesh has shown interest in removing the toxic liquids.
The management responsible for this disaster was ultimately American and removed themselves quickly from the scene. Shamefully, the Indian Government was bought off by a payment that in no way compensated for the suffering and death of the ordinary people. To this day, neither the Indian or American management has been brought to a court of law to stand trial for negligence on a vast scale. This is where, habitually, the Indian Government loses the respect of its average decent voter because it was only in 1989 that Union Carbide paid the equivalent of Rs15,000 to each adult victim – this is a paltry sum of about £215! It did not cover all the eventualities of each person’s suffering.
There are two unlikely heroines of the Bhopal tragedy called Rashida Bee and Champa Devi Shukla. Both these wonderful people suffered dreadfully in terms of family loss and continuing ill health. In 2002, the women organised a 19-day hunger strike in Delhi, demanding that Warren Anderson, the former Union Carbide chief executive, face a criminal trial in Bhopal. In 2003, they collected 5,000 brooms from survivors living around the factory and delivered them to Dow’s headquarters in Mumbai; they called it the ‘Beat Dow with a broom’ campaign. Now, they have finally achieved international recognition, which they deserve for their dogged refusal to let poverty deny justice to the people of Bhopal.
At the risk of sounding very judgemental, I think that the US was and is uncaring of disasters that happen to other peoples or cultures, yet in September 2001 they had visited on them one of history’s most carefully calculated evil acts. The 3,000 people that died then are about one seventh of the figure that was affected by the Bhopal tragedy, which can be laid at the feet of one of their countryman. But, it was far away, to ‘some little old villagers in a backward state of a backward land ….. Gee man, life is cheap out there!’ What price a life, suffering, loss of parents and social devastation; these are lessons that maybe they have learnt collectively as a nation since 9/11, but I do not believe it. My experience with the US has shown me that, sadly and to their great detriment, Americans only really care when ‘Americans’ are involved. Those Americans that travel and work abroad broaden their thinking but a huge majority appear to have tunnel vision and seem to want to live their lives in a ‘Disneyed gloss’. We were in Mexico earlier this year and saw once again that the exported idea of glamorous men and women that Hollywood portrays is a complete myth; the majority of the American holiday makers were obese, scruffy and determined to feed their faces to the detriment of their health and the astonished amusement of other races and cultures. Exotic Mayan civilisation, stunning snorkelling, wonderful dolphins, hell no, let’s just stuff in another hamburger with fries. After all, it is eleven o’clock and we finished breakfast at half past nine! I sound cruel, but I might as well tell it as I saw it.
Bhopal is a pleasant city built round two lakes, and there is something reminiscent of Udaipur in Rajasthan. It is flourishing now and has tried to put the harsh memory of its tragedy behind it. Essentially, it was a Muslim city with a Muslim ruler and has all sorts of areas that are of interest plus a number of excellent museums. Again, were it to be really carefully cleaned and renovated this would have great potential as a week-end destination with so many historic sights on its doorstep, plus a number of good hotels and restaurants. We were booked in at the Noor us Sabah, the old palace of the Begum that is now a Welcomgroup Heritage Hotel. It stands on a hill with a simply stunning view across the lakes. We were shown to an executive suite with its own terrace looking on to the view. Everything was lovely and such a superb sublime contrast from the previous night in Jabalpur! We told Gudu to go off and have a good rest and we went in searc
h of food. It was early afternoon but as yet we had not managed to eat breakfast, let alone lunch so we settled for yet another tomato omelette, papaya and coke and tea. A journey that started at 0630 hours and ended at about 1500 without anything to eat and only a lukewarm bottled lemonade had left us tired and dehydrated. However, we were elated; this last part of the journey had potentially been a bit of a risk because of no real accommodation or aid on the way. Thank goodness for the good jeep and Gudu. Furthermore, we had managed to fit in Bhimbetka, a definite plus.
Sunset over the lake at Bhopal
Taking it easy and enjoying the luxury of our suite, we watched the sun set over the lake. Dinner, taken on the terrace, was good and we settled for an early night as the next day was going to be very long and active. In the morning, we would go to Sanchi which I have long wanted to see, followed by lunch and museums and some shopping and then catch a plane to Delhi late in the evening. Graham, however, bumped into some doctors, who were attending a medical conference within the hotel, and they warmly invited him to participate, however, he only spent a few minutes with them before retreating. The moon was at the height of fullness and looked lovely in its silver glory with reflections on the still water of the lake. I had managed some good sunset photos and I would rise early and call for tea and watch the sunrise the next day.
CHAPTER
THIRTEEN
Sanchi and the Surroundings
of Bhopal
After a reasonably leisurely rise, with time spent in contemplation looking at the beautiful lake and the use of a luxurious pink marble bathroom and shower we were ready to face the world. I had managed to speak with Naveen in Delhi just to confirm some arrangements and wish him well for his wedding on the morrow. At one stage, it had looked as if we would have to leave at mid-day on the Indian Airlines flight back to Delhi and thus miss our visit to Sanchi. This was so annoying because it was partly the reason for coming all this way, yet we could not afford to miss the only plane out that day as we had a much anticipated appointment with the Jat Regiment in Bareilly on the following day. However, for whatever reason Indian Airlines rescheduled their departure till late in the evening and thus we had a full day to enjoy everything around us.
Gudu, who was also feeling fit and refreshed drove us the forty-six kilometres to Sanchi. Its stupas, monasteries, temples and pillars date from the 3rd century BC are so precious that it was declared A World Heritage site. Again, it was a beautifully clear day and that helps to enhance a special memory. Sanchi not only houses the most perfect and well preserved stupas but also offers the visitor a chance to see, all at once, the genesis, flowering and decay of Buddhist art and architecture over a period of about 1,500 years, from the 3rd century BC to the 12th century AD – virtually the entire era of Indian Buddhism.
The site is well maintained and dotted with vibrant bougainvilleas and other flowering shrubs. Looking down from the hilltop one can see all around one, rather like Bhimbetka, which is so much older. Graham and I really enjoyed ourselves and found the cleanliness, manicured garden and lack of people very enjoyable.
Sanchi had no actual connection with Gautama Buddha during his lifetime, nor was it the focus of any significant event in the history of Buddhism. The great Mauryan Emperor, Ashoka, who lived in the 3rd century (and of whom I have spoken with regard to Orissa) is thought to have founded the great religious establishment at Sanchi and erected a monolithic pillar as well – you may recall his edict in Orissa?
Ashoka’s second wife, Devi, who belonged to the Vidisha dynasty was probably the cause of this flat-topped hill becoming a centre for Buddhism. By the 14th century, however, the beautiful structures of Sanchi were deserted and went unnoticed. It was only in 1818 that the site was re-discovered by chance by a British army officer, General Taylor. Sadly, amateur archaeologists and treasure hunters were allowed to ravage the site until, in 1881, a Major Cole initiated appropriate restoration work. Between 1912 and 1919, the structures were carefully repaired and restored to their present condition under the supervision of Sir John Marshall, and today they form part of the rich cultural heritage of Madhya Pradesh. It seems almost unbelievable that a century passed before actual restoration was embarked upon.
As one approaches the apex of the hill, one sees the big Stupa 1, which is the most fascinating structure on the site. This was actually built by Emperor Ashoka and it is thought to be the oldest stone structure in India; 36.5 metres in diameter and 16.4 metres high, with a massive hemispherical dome, the stupa’s original much smaller version is entombed within the structure we see now. There is a very thick layer of lime plaster, which was added a century later, acting as an outer shell. A third of the way up there is a raised terrace, enclosed by a railing which is meant for ritual pradakshina (Buddhist circumambulation of the monument). The hemispherical mound known as a stupa has been central to Buddhist worship since the sixth century BC when Buddha was alive, but of the half dozen sites dotted around India only Sanchi has survived. The stupa is encircled by a stone railing, that is a larger heavier version of that on the terrace to which I have referred. There are four entrances through magnificently carved toranas (gateways). These gateways were erected in 35 BC and are among the finest examples of Buddhist art in India. Both sides of each torana are covered with prolific and consistently exquisite carvings depicting scenes from the life of the Buddha. Following traditional practice, the Buddha is not depicted in human form, instead emblems such as an empty throne, a riderless horse, or a wheel are used to depict him. A pair of footprints or the ‘Bo’ tree may also indicate his presence. In one scene, represented by a Bo tree, he is seen ascending a road to heaven. Archaeologists believe the craftsmen who fashioned these toranas, or at least carved the detail may have been craftsmen in ivory because the detail is so intricate. The four toranas face north, south, east and west, and the southern torana is the main entrance. My photography has worked amazingly well and, thus, I have documented the intricate carvings pictorially. I could write a whole chapter on the detail but this is not a guide book so suffice to say that Graham and I were both enchanted and impressed by the stories told in stone, the careful symbolism and the beauty and grace of the whole edifice.
The Great Stupa at Sanchi, the earliest Buddhist building in India
A Torana (gateway) against the winter sky at Sanchi
Intricate carvings on a Torana (gateway), Sanchi
We sat on the stump of Ashoka’s pillar and enjoyed the shade. Ashoka erected columns such as this all over his empire to mark sacred sites and pilgrims’ trails. It is made out of sandstone known as Chunar because it comes from a quarry of the same name on the banks of the Ganges near Varanasi. It was originally crowned by a magnificent lion capital but that is now housed in the state museum and the inscription etched around its base is in the Brahmi script, recording Ashoka’s edicts in Pali, the early Buddhist language and forerunner of Sanskrit. The Ashoka pillar is a symbol of India’s nationhood and an iconic symbol for all Indians. The second stupa is also remarkable and I had difficulty in deciding when to stop taking photographs. The clarity of the day with the bright blue sky made such a wonderful backdrop to it all.
Sanchi draws visitors all year round but it really comes alive in late November (we were there on 19th November 2002); the temperature is just right and the festival of Chaitygiri Vihara takes place annually at this time. During this period, hundreds of Buddhist monks and pilgrims converge on Sanchi and the relics of two of the Buddha’s early disciples, Sari Puttha and Maha Moggallana, are brought out for display. The relics were discovered in the third stupa in 1853 and are kept in the vihara or monastery for the rest of the year.
Sanchi is surrounded by other sites of interest, at one of which, Vidisha, 10 km from Sanchi and deserted after the sixth century AD, there are ruins of a Brahmanical shrine dedicated to Vishnu and dated not later than 2 BC. The cement in the foundation bricks here reveals lime mortar, the first known example of the use of cement in India.
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bsp; The Heliodorus Pillar dates from 140 BC given by a Bactrian-Greek ambassador from Taxila, which was the capital city of Gandhara (now in the northwest frontier region of Pakistan). The shaft has an inscription dedicating it to Vishnu’s father Vasudeva. Apparently, Heliodorus converted to the local cult that worshipped Vishnu. It is known locally as the Khamb Baba pillar. The Udaygiri Caves, about 5 km from Vidisha, are Hindu and Jain rock art shrines that have carvings dating from the fourth to sixth centuries AD. Raisen, on the road to Bhopal, 23 km south of Sanchi, is a huge and colourful hilltop fort with temples, cannons, 40 wells, three palaces and a large tank. At Sonari, there are a further eight stupas and at Andher, discovered after Sanchi, there are three small stupas that are well preserved.
A general view of the ruins at Sanchi
Quite beyond our reach in one day, there is another example of superb Hindu temple architecture at Neelkantheswara, built in 1080 AD by the Paramara king Udayadita. It took 22 years to complete but is similar to Khajuraho, though perhaps more restrained in the subjects of its sculpture. Reasonably close by, there are a number of Jain temples with huge significance for the followers of the Jain Faith but tourism is not developed in this part of the country and to reach Oon and Bawangaja and Khargone one is just as well to travel from Indore. It has to be said though that these rich architectural religious sites are for the very dedicated traveller.