Alida; or, Miscellaneous Sketches of Incidents During the Late American War.

by Frank V. Webster

  CHAPTER XXVI.

  From war's dread ravages again is seen, A spacious town, and Buffalo the name, Now rising from its ashes, spreads around. Various new structures fill the empty ground.

  From Tonawanta to Buffalo is eight miles, five of which they travelledon the canal which runs along the bank of the Niagara river as far asBlack Rock.

  [_Travels_ (chapter VI continues):

  From this place, the canal runs along the bank of the Niagara, from which it is separated only by a small bank, built rather carelessly, and several feet above the level of the river, which is already somewhat rapid on account of its vicinity to the falls. On the Tonnawanta Creek we saw several canoes which were made by excavating the trunks of trees. From Tonnawanta to Buffalo it is eight miles, five of which we travelled on the canal as far as Black Rock....]

  Buffalo was burnt during the late war by the British, but it appeared tobe already rising from its ashes with increased beauty.

  [_Travels_:

  Buffalo was burnt during the late war, by the British, but it has arisen from its ashes with increased beauty.]

  This town will soon become an important place, in consequence of itssituation near the mouth of the canal, and its harbour. At the entranceof the harbour is a light-house, and on the lake were seen a number ofwell-built vessels. A steam-boat called the Superior was ready to runwith fifty passengers to Erie, and thence to Detroit. There was anamusing military spectacle. It consisted of a military parade,consisting of thirty men, including seven officers and two cornets. Theywere formed like a battalion into six divisions and performed a numberof manoeuvres.

  [_Travels_:

  The town contains about five thousand inhabitants, and will, in consequence of its situation near the mouth of the canal and its harbour, at which they are hard at work, soon become an important place. At the entrance of the harbour is a light-house, and on the lake we observed several schooners of about three hundred tons. A steam-boat, called the Superior, was ready to start with fifty passengers to Erie, and thence to Detroit. In the streets, we saw some tolerably well-dressed Indians of the Seneca tribe, who have their wigwam three miles distant. Amongst them were several women, who indeed, but for their complexion, might have been considered handsome. We also had an amusingmilitary spectacle. It consisted of a militia parade, consisting of thirty men, including seven officers and two cornets. They were formed, like a battalion, into six divisions, and performed a number of manoeuvres....]

  On the following day, 21st August, the company left Buffalo for thesmall village of Manchester, twenty-three miles distant, and situated onthe right bank of the Niagara, near the falls. As far as the village ofTonawanta, the road passes along the canal. It was in a very badcondition, cut through the forest, and the trees thrown on the roadside. On the left they had a view of the river and Grand Island. Theriver is more than a mile wide below the island. On the Canada side isthe village of Chippewa. From this place, a distance of three miles,they could already see the rising vapours of the falls. The water,however, indicated no signs of the approach to the precipice. It is onlya short distance from Manchester, where you perceive the lofty trees onGoat Island, with its heights situated in the midst of the falls, thatthe river becomes rocky, and the rapids commence; these form a number ofsmall falls, which are nearly a mile long and the same in breadth,running as far as where the two great falls are separated by GoatIsland.

  [_Travels_:

  On the following day, 21st of August, we left Buffalo for the small village of Manchester, twenty-three miles distant, and situated on the right bank of the Niagara, near the falls. As far as the village of Tonnawanta the road passed along the canal.

  It was in a very bad condition, cut through the forest, and no pains have been taken to remove the trees, which are thrown on the road side, and the most beautiful trunks are permitted to spoil in a pitiable manner. On the left we had a view of the river and of Grand-Island, thickly studded with timber. The river is more than one mile wide below the island. On the Canada side is the village of Chippewa. From this place, a distance of three miles, we could already see the rising vapours of the falls. The water, however, indicated no signs of the approach to the precipice. It is only a short distance from Manchester, where you perceive the lofty trees on Goat-Island with its heights, situated in the midst of the falls, that the river becomes rocky, and the rapids commence; these form a number of small falls, which are nearly a mile long and the same in breadth, running as far as where the two great falls are separated by Goat-Island.]

  At Manchester they took lodgings at the Eagle Tavern, and hastenedimmediately to the Falls; their steps were guided by the mighty roaring.In a few minutes Alida and her company stood near the precipice, and sawbefore them the immense mass of water which rushes with a tremendousnoise into the frightful abyss below. It is impossible to describe thescene, and the pen is too feeble to delineate the simultaneous feelingsof our insignificance on the one hand, with those of grandeur andsublimity on the other, which agitate the human breast at the sight ofthis stupendous work of nature, which rivals that of all othercountries, in grandeur, beauty and magnificence. We can only gaze,admire and adore. The rocks on both sides are perpendicular, but thereis a wooden staircase which leads to the bed of the river.

  [_Travels_:

  At Manchester, we took lodgings at the Eagle Tavern, and hastened immediately to the Falls: our steps were guided by their mighty roaring. In a few moments we stood near the precipice, and saw before us the immense mass of water which rushes with a tremendous noise into the frightful abyss below. It is impossible to describe the scene, and the pen is too feeble to delineate the simultaneons feelings of insignificence and grandeur which agitate the human breast at the sight of this stupendous work of nature! We can only gaze, admire, and adore. The rocks on both sides are perpendicular, but there is a wooden staircase which leads to the bed of the river.]

  They descended, but in consequence of the drizzly rain which is producedby the foam of the water, they had by no means so fine a prospect frombelow as they anticipated. On this account, therefore, they soon againascended and satisfied themselves by looking from above upon thissublime and majestic sight. As they returned, full of these mightyimpressions, to the Eagle Tavern, they found to their great joy a fineopportunity to speak of the grandeur and magnificence they had justbeheld. There was another party just arrived from New-York, to renderhomage to this great natural curiosity.

  [_Travels_:

  We descended, but in consequence of the drizzly rain which is produced by the foam of the water, we had by no means so fine a prospect from below as we anticipated. On this account, therefore, we soon ascended and satisfied ourselves by looking from above upon this sublime and majestic sight. As we returned, full of these mighty impressions, to the Eagle Tavern we found to our great joy a fine opportunity of speaking of the grandeur and magnificence we had just beheld. Lieutenants De Goer and Van Vloten, of the Pallas, had just arrived to render homage to this great natural curiosity.]

  In company with these gentlemen and ladies, they took a walk toGoat-Island, by a convenient wooden bridge, thrown over the rapids aboutseven years since. The first bridge leads to a small island calledBath-Island, which contains a bath-house; the second to Goat-Island,which is about one mile in circumference, and overgrown with old andbeautiful trees.

  [_Travels_:

  In company with these gentlemen we took a walk to Goat-Island, by a convenient wooden bridge, thrown over the rapids about seven years since. The first bridge leads to a small island called Bath-Island, which contains a bath-house and billiard-room: the second to Goat-Island, which is about one mile in circumference, and overgrown with old and beautiful trees. The Indians who formerly resided in this part of the country....]

  On Bath-Island a person may approach so near the American falls as tolook into the abyss below. From the foot of the falls y
ou can seenothing of the abyss, inasmuch as every thing is concealed by the smokeand vapour. On Goat-Island a person may in the same manner approach theCanadian falls in the centre of which is a semi-circular hollow, calledthe Horse-shoe, and here the noise is still more tremendous than on theother side. The vapour which rises from the Horse-shoe, forms a thickmist, which may be seen at a great distance.

  [_Travels_:

  On Bath-Island a person may approach so near to the American falls as to look into the abyss below. The animals in the neighbourhood are so careless of this, that the cows and horses go into the river to drink within five yards of the brink of the precipice. From the foot of the falls you can see nothing of the abyss, inasmuch as every thing is concealed by the foam and vapour. On Goat-Island a person may in the same manner approach the Canadian falls, in the centre of which is a semicircular hollow, called the Horse-shoe, and here the noise is still more tremendous than on the other side. The vapour which rises from the Horse-shoe forms a thick mist, which may be seen at a great distance.]

  To look into the Horse-shoe is awful and horrible. Nor can this be donebut at the instant when the vapour is somewhat dissipated. You standlike a petrified being. The level of Lake Erie is said to be fivehundred and sixty-four feet above that of the sea, and three hundred andthirty-four feet above the waters of Lake Ontario. Lake Ontario isconsequently two hundred and thirty feet above the level of the sea.From Lake Erie to the rapids the water has a fall of fifteen feet, inthe rapids fifty-seven feet, and according to a recent measurement, thefalls on the American side are one-hundred and sixty-two feet high. Fromthis place to Lewistown the river has a fall of one hundred and fourfeet, and thence to Lake Ontario, of two feet.

  [_Travels_:

  To look into the Horse-shoe is awful and horrible. Nor can this be done but at the instant when the vapour is somewhat dissipated. You stand like a petrified being. The level of Lake Erie is said to be five hundred and sixty-four feet above that of the sea, and three hundred and thirty-four feet above the waters of Lake Ontario. Lake Ontario is consequently two hundred and thirty feet above the level of the sea. From Lake Erie to the rapids the water has a fall of fifteen feet, in the rapids fifty-seven feet, and according to a recent measurement, the falls on the American side are one hundred and sixty-two feet high. From this place to Lewistown the river has a fall of one hundred and four feet, and thence to Lake Ontario, of two feet.]

  The next morning they made another visit to Goat Island. They afterwardsdescended the stairs to the river, which they crossed in a small boat,at a short distance from both falls. The bed of the river is said to behere two hundred and forty-six feet deep. The current passes beneath thesurface of the water, and does not again become visible till after adistance of three miles. On the Canada side you have a much better viewof the falls than on the American, for you see both falls at the sametime. There is on the Canada side a covered wooden staircase, which theyascended, and approached the falls, amidst a constant drizzling causedby the falling water.

  [_Travels_:

  The next morning, 22d of August, we made another visit to Goat-Island. We afterwards descended the stairs to the river, which we crossed in a small boat, at a short distance from both falls. The bed of the river is said to be here two hundred and forty-six feet deep. The current passes beneath the surface of the water, and does not again become visible till after a distance of three miles. On the Canada side you have a much better view of the falls than on the American, for you see both falls at the same time. There is on the Canada side a covered wooden staircase, which we ascended, and approached the falls, amidst a constant drizzling caused by the falling water.]

  The sun threw his rays upon the thick mist and formed a beautifulrainbow. Another winding stair-case leads down the rocks near the falls,under which you may walk to the distance of one hundred and twenty feet;several of the gentlemen went in, but according to their report, theycould not see any thing. They were contented, therefore, to behold thefalls from Table rock, which almost overhangs them. A part of this rockgave way several years ago and fell down the precipice, and theremaining part is so much undermined by the water, that it will probablysoon follow. The whole distance from the American to the British shoreis fourteen hundred yards, of which three hundred and eighty belong tothe American falls, three hundred and thirty to Goat-Island, and sevenhundred to the Canada or Horse-shoe falls.

  [_Travels_:

  The sun threw his rays upon the thick mist and formed a beautiful rainbow. Another winding staircase leads down the rocks near the falls, under which you may walk to the distance of one hundred and twenty feet; several of the gentlemen present went in, but according to their report they could not see any thing. I was contented therefore to behold the falls from Table rock, which almost overhangs them. A part of this rock gave way several years ago and fell down the precipice, and the remaining part is so much undermined by the water that it will probably soon follow. The whole distance from the American to the British shore is fourteen hundred yards, of which three hundred and eighty belong to the American falls, three hundred and thirty to Goat-Island, and seven hundred yards to the Canada or Horse-shoe falls.]

  On the British side, opposite to the falls, are two taverns, in thelarger of which, Forsyth's Hotel, they took lodgings until the next day.During the late war a bridge was thrown over the river about one mileabove this tavern, which, together with a mill, was burnt by theAmericans on their retreat from the battle of Lundy's Lane. A few yearsago a burning spring was discovered here. It is surrounded by a cask,and contains cold water of a blackish appearance, and of a sulphuroustaste. Within this cask is a small vessel which has a pipe at the upperend. If a lighted candle be held within a foot of the mouth of thispipe, it will instantly produce a strong flame, similar to a gas-light.In the neighbourhood of Forsyth's Hotel is the only point from which youhave a full view of both falls at the same time, which, however, isoften interrupted by the ascending vapour.

  [_Travels_:

  On the British side, opposite to the falls are two taverns, in the larger of which, Forsyth's Hotel, we took lodgings until the next day, when we intended to pay a visit to the governor of Upper Canada, Sir Peregrine Maitland, who resides at his country seat within a few miles of the falls. During the late war a bridge was thrown over the river about one mile above this tavern, which, together with a mill, was burnt by the Americans on their retreat from the battle of Lundy's Lane. A few years ago a burning spring was discovered here, several of which are said to occur in different parts of the United States. It is surrounded by a cask, and contains a cold water of a blackish, slimy appearance, and of a sulphurous taste. Within this cask is a small vessel which is open at the bottom, and has a pipe at its upper end. If a lighted candle be held within a foot of the mouth of this pipe, it will instantly produce a strong flame, similar to a gas-light. If the vessel be taken out, and the candle be held over the surface of the water, it will produce the same effect, but the flame will soon disappear. In the neighbourhood of Forsyth's Hotel is the only point from which you have a full view of both falls at the same time, which, however, is often interrupted by the ascending vapour.]

  On their return to the American shore, they examined a camera obscura,which is situated at the head of the American stair-case, and was builtby a Swiss. This gives a tolerably good view of the falls. Afterwardsthey took a ride to the Whirlpool, which is three miles down theNiagara, and is formed by a kind of rocky basin where the river runsbetween narrow rocky banks. It is singular to see this confusion ofwater, whose appearance cannot be better described than by comparing itwith the flowing of melted lead. The lofty rocks which form the banks ofthe river, are beautifully covered with wood, and present a stately,majestic appearance. In the evening they again went to Goat-Island inorder to view the falls by bright moonlight; in this light they producea peculiarly beautiful effect, which is greatly heightened by amoon-rainbow.<
br />
  [_Travels_:

  On our return to the American shore, we examined a camera obscura which is situated at the head of the American staircase, and was built by a Swiss. This gives a tolerably good view of the falls. Afterwards we took a ride to the Whirlpool, which is three miles down the Niagara, and is formed by a kind of rocky basin where the river runs between narrow rocky banks. It is singular to see this confusion of the water, whose appearance cannot be better described than by comparing it with the flowing of melted lead. The lofty rocks which form the banks of this river, are beautifully covered with wood and present a stately, majestic appearance. In the evening I again went to Goat-Island in order to view the falls by bright moonlight: in this light they produce a very peculiarly beautiful effect, which is greatly heightened by a moon-rainbow.]

  The following day both parties went to the other side of the river, andtook lodgings at Forsyth's Hotel.

  [_Travels_:

  The following day, 23d August, all our company departed; my friend Tromp and myself alone remained. We went to the other side of the river, and took lodgings at Forsyth's Hotel....]

  High on Hyria's rock my muse repose, While I wild nature's direful scenes disclose, Nor let wing'd Fancy's bold creative aid, Paint beyond truth what nature's God has made; Inspir'd by him let every flowing line, Describ'd correctly, through the numbers shine. Fed by a thousand springs and purling rills, Ocean's internal, the wild torrent fills. Lakes Michigan, Superior, there we see, Concent'ring Huron's flood with proud Erie: The awful stream its wond'rous course began, Roll'd the rich flood before the date of man. From Buffalo to Chippewa bends its course, Full eighteen miles, with calm and rapid force, By Grand Isle passes, where its stream divides, Whose circling course, majestic, downward glides. Meets then again a verdant island long, Gathers the weeping brook, and swells more strong, Widening the swift high-mounted torrent flies Like lightning bursting from the thund'ring skies. The time-worn cliffs, retiring to their source, Shews countless ages it has run its course. The Schlosser fall eight hundred ninety-two Will count the feet how broad this current grew. Two thousand with two hundred crescent line Will the full breadth of Horse-Shoe Fall define. The little fall, with width of seventy-three, Will tell whence Neptune feeds his hungry sea. Tumbling one hundred sixty feet, they all Make one loud groaning in Niagara Fall. Thick hov'ring mists in mountain vapours rise, Bright colour'd rainbows gild the azure skies. The dazzled eye, fill'd with the novel blaze Beholds, astonished, their refracted rays. Nor ends the awful scene, till down the view, Through the dark gulf, these boiling floods pursue. Their course 'tween mountain rocks, which form the shore, Through which, tremendous raging billows roar. Until they form a bay, where tide-worn trees, In conflicts wild rage round the whirlpool seas: Huge splintered logs here twisting round and round, With many a turn before they quit the ground; At length escaping from the circling tide, Side-long slide off, and with a bouncing glide, Head-long adown through rapid streams are toss'd, Until in wide Ontario's lake are lost. Neptune thus roused leaves now the wat'ry plain, To seek the source from whence he holds his reign. Full in the view of this tremendous scene, Adjacent here, a table rock is seen; Where love-sick swains in clambering groups repair, Conducting tim'rous nymphs with anxious care: 'Dew'd with the spray, the wild'red eye surveys, The rushing waters shout their Maker's praise.