To the Bone

by Paul Liebrandt

  Place an 8 × 8 × 1-inch mold on top of the sheet and use a sharp knife to cut around the mold. Gently remove the paper and place the presse base into the mold. Refrigerate the mold uncovered. (This can be made and formed one day in advance.)

  MAKE THE CARAMEL

  Heat a medium, heavy pot over medium-low heat. Add the sugar and glucose syrup and cook, stirring, until a light caramel forms, 5 to 10 minutes. Use a rubber spatula to stir in the fleur de sel, cocoa butter, and cream, to help the ingredients emulsify. Reduce the heat to low and add the chocolate and the butter. Continue to stir until the chocolate and butter are melted and the mixture is emulsified. Pour the caramel over the prepared presse to evenly coat it, and continue to chill the mold in the refrigerator until the caramel sets, about 3 hours.

  MAKE THE CRÉMEUX

  Fill a small bowl with ice water. Add the gelatin and set aside to bloom for 5 minutes.

  Bring a medium pot of water to a simmer over medium heat. Set a heatproof bowl over it to create a double boiler. Add the egg yolks, sugar, cream, and milk to the bowl. Whisk to incorporate, then cook the crémeux, stirring with a spatula, until the temperature reaches 187°F (86°C) on a digital thermometer.

  Remove the gelatin from the water and use your hands to squeeze the liquid out. Add the gelatin to the crémeux and stir to melt the gelatin completely. Remove the bowl from the double boiler and add the chocolate to the mixture, stirring until the mixture is fully emulsified. Pour the crémeux into the mold on top of the caramel and allow the layers to set in the refrigerator for 4 hours. Once the layers are completely set, remove the mold and cut the bar into 1 × 4-inch pieces.

  MAKE THE GLAÇAGE

  Fill a small bowl with ice water. Add the gelatin and set aside to bloom for 5 minutes. Sift together the sugar and the black cocoa through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium bowl.

  Heat a medium, heavy pot over medium heat. Whisk in the cream and water and bring to a boil. Whisk in the sugar-cocoa mixture until fully incorporated. Continue to boil until the sugar is dissolved. Remove the gelatin from the water and use your hands to squeeze the liquid out. Add the gelatin to the mixture and stir to combine. Once the gelatin has melted, remove the pot from the heat and stir in the chocolate, mixing with a rubber spatula until the glaçage is emulsified.

  Fill a large bowl with ice water. Place a medium bowl on top, and top with a very fine-mesh strainer. Strain the glaçage through the strainer and cool down, stirring frequently, until the temperature reaches 104°F (40°C) on a digital thermometer.

  Place a wire rack over a baking tray and arrange the sliced gold bars on the rack. Spoon the warm glaçage over the bars, evenly coating the bars and letting the excess drip through the wire rack. Place the coated bars in the refrigerator, uncovered, until fully set, about 2 hours.

  Use an offset spatula to remove each gold bar from the wire rack. Use kitchen shears or a sharp paring knife to trim any excess glaçage off the base. Decorate the top of each bar with pieces of gold leaf and serve.

  RED CABBAGE GELÉE

  MAKES ABOUT 15 SERVINGS

  FOR THE RED CABBAGE PUREE

  ½ stick cinnamon

  10 pieces (12.5 grams) star anise

  20 whole pods (5 grams) green cardamom

  1 teaspoon (1.25 grams) Szechuan peppercorns

  1½ pounds red cabbage, cut into chiffonade (680 grams chiffonade)

  One bottle (750 milliliters) robust red wine

  1 cup (250 grams) tawny port

  1 teaspoon (12.5 grams) fresh thyme leaves

  1 fresh bay leaf

  3 large cloves garlic, halved lengthwise, germ removed (22 grams peeled cloves)

  2 ounces (57 grams) bacon

  0.25 gram xanthan gum (see Sources)

  2 tablespoons (25 grams) duck fat (see Sources)

  FOR THE RED CABBAGE GELÉE

  2 cups (450 grams) braising liquid (from recipe above)

  1 cup (150 grams) red cabbage, braised (from recipe above)

  0.72 gram High Acyl Gellan (Gellan LT; see Sources)

  1.13 grams Low Acyl Gellan (Gellan F; see Sources)

  0.10 gram sodium hexametaphosphate (see Sources)

  MAKE THE RED CABBAGE PUREE

  Heat a medium, heavy pan over medium heat. Toast the spices in the pan until fragrant, about 1 minute. Set the pan aside and let cool.

  Put the cabbage, wine, and port in a large bowl. Put the spice mixture, thyme, bay leaf, and garlic in the center of a large square of cheesecloth. Tie the sachet closed with kitchen twine. Add the sachet and the bacon to the bowl with the cabbage and cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 48 hours.

  Transfer the chilled mixture to a large, heavy pot. Cover the pot with a cartouche and set over medium heat. Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low and cook until the cabbage is tender, 3 to 4 hours. Remove and discard the sachet and bacon, and set the mixture aside to cool. Once cooled, reserve 2 cups (450 grams) of the braising liquid and 1 cup of the braised cabbage for the gelée.

  Transfer the remaining liquid and cabbage to a high-speed blender. Add the xanthan gum and duck fat and puree until smooth, about 2 minutes. Fill a large bowl with ice. Place a medium bowl on top of the ice-filled bowl and set a chinois or fine-mesh strainer over the bowl. Strain the puree into the bowl and set aside to cool. Once cooled, transfer to a plastic container, cover tightly, and refrigerate until ready to use. (You should have 1 pint of puree, which can be stored for up to three days.)

  MAKE THE RED CABBAGE GELÉE

  Heat a medium, heavy pot over medium heat. Add the reserved braising liquid and 1 cup of the cabbage puree and heat until the temperature registers at 194°F (90°C) on a digital thermometer. Add the Gellan LT, Gellan F, and sodium hexametaphosphate. Remove the pot from the heat. Blend with an immersion blender until the mixture is fully emulsified.

  Return the pan to the heat and bring the temperature back up to 194°F (90°C). Strain the mixture into a sauce gun. Dispense the mixture on a 7 × 5 × 1-inch tray and refrigerate until the gelée is set, about 1 hour. Once the gelée is set, cut it into 1 × 1-inch cubes. Cover the tray tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use. (The gelée can be stored in the refrigerator for up to three days.)

  HALIBUT JAMÓN

  MAKES APPROXIMATELY 60 SLICES

  Note that this preparation, while not terribly complicated, requires 48 hours.

  2 pounds (1 kilogram) skinless halibut fillet, cleaned by your fishmonger

  1 cup (200 grams) sel gris (see Sources)

  ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar

  7 tablespoons (75 grams) vadouvan spice (see Sources)

  1 tablespoon (20 grams) Dijon mustard

  Wrap the fillet in cheesecloth, using just enough cheesecloth to surround the fillet one time.

  Put the sel gris, sugar, and 3 teaspoons of the vadouvan spice in a medium mixing bowl and stir together until well incorporated. Divide the mixture in half or simply transfer approximately ¾ cup into a measuring cup.

  Sprinkle half of the salt mixture onto a baking tray, roughly the size of the fillet. Lay the cheesecloth-wrapped halibut down on top of the salt. Sprinkle the remaining mixture evenly over the top of the fillet. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 hours.

  Remove the fillet from the refrigerator and brush off the salt mix. Unwrap the fillet, discard the cheesecloth, and brush the tray clean of the salt mix. Line the tray with parchment paper and set the fish on the paper. Let dry unwrapped in the refrigerator for 12 hours.

  Use a pastry brush to paint the skinned side of the fish with a thin layer of Dijon mustard. Sprinkle the remaining ¼ cup of vadouvan evenly over the mustard to coat it. Remove from the tray and place on a wire rack. Place the rack in the refrigerator and let the halibut dry for 12 more hours.

  To serve, remove the tray from the refrigerator and, with a sharp slicing knife, cut the fish on a slight bias into paper-thin pieces. (The jamón will keep, wrapped in plastic wra
p and refrigerated, for up to five days.)

  “THE BAGEL”

  MAKES 25 SMALL BAGELS

  Note that you will need 25 small bagel- or doughnut-shaped molds, which you can find online or in specialty kitchen stores. The egg yolk bagels must be served the same day they are made.

  FOR THE POTATO BAGEL

  Kosher salt

  4 large Yukon gold potatoes

  2 large (80 grams) eggs, separated

  2 teaspoons (10 grams) active dried yeast

  ¼ cup (70 grams) soy milk

  ¼ cup (70 grams) wheat flour

  ¼ cup (25 grams) all-purpose flour

  2 teaspoons (2 grams) finely grated orange zest

  Pinch of fleur de sel

  Freshly ground black pepper

  FOR THE EGG YOLK CRÈME

  8 large (160 grams) egg yolks (reserve the whites for another recipe)

  2 drops fresh lemon juice

  Pinch of piment d’espelette (see Note, and Sources)

  Fleur de sel

  Several pieces gold leaf (see Sources)

  MAKE THE POTATO BAGEL

  Preheat the oven to 350°F (177°C). Make a thick bed of kosher salt on a baking tray and arrange the potatoes in a single layer. Bake the potatoes for 90 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool. When the potatoes are cool enough to handle, peel them, discard the skins, and pass them through a potato ricer, reserving 2 cups (150 grams) in a large mixing bowl.

  Lower the oven to 95°F (35°C). Stir together the egg yolks, yeast, soy milk, both flours, and orange zest in a large stainless steel mixing bowl. Season with fleur de sel and pepper and mix just to combine. Cover tautly with plastic wrap, place the bowl in the oven, and let proof for 40 minutes.

  Remove the egg yolk mixture from the oven and add to the potatoes. Put the egg whites in a separate large bowl and whisk until they are light and fluffy but not stiff. Use a spatula to gently fold the egg whites into the potato mixture just until combined. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 hours.

  Preheat a convection oven to 375°F (191°C). Remove the potato mixture from the refrigerator and use a spoon to portion the dough out into 1½-inch round, bagel-shaped silicone molds. Place the molds on a baking tray and place in the oven (making sure the fan is turned off). Bake for 9 minutes, then turn the pan 180 degrees and bake until the bagels are set, another 9 to 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and set the bagels aside to cool for 5 minutes in their molds. Gently unmold the bagels and transfer to a wire rack to cool. Trim around the edges with kitchen shears or a paring knife if necessary.

  MAKE THE EGG YOLK CRÈME

  Put the egg yolks in a large vacuum bag and seal at 100 percent vacuum. Bring a water bath in an immersion circulator to 149°F (65°C) and add the bag. Cook for 1 hour. Remove the bag from the water and cut it open. While the egg yolks are still warm, pass them through a fine tamis (drum sieve) into a medium bowl. Add the lemon juice and piment d’espelette and fold the mixture together until incorporated. You should have just under 2 cups. Use a vacuum to remove the air from the crème and transfer the crème to a plastic piping bag. Keep the crème warm, but make sure the temperature does not rise above 149°F or 65°C.

  To serve, pipe a spiral of the egg yolk crème into the center of each bagel. Finish with a pinch of fleur de sel and garnish with a touch of gold leaf. Serve warm.

  BLACK OLIVE GNOCCHI

  MAKES 45 PIECES, ENOUGH TO SERVE 6

  These may be served on their own or dressed with a black olive tapenade that has been thinned with olive oil and topped with freshly grated aged gouda.

  FOR THE OLIVE PUREE

  1 teaspoon (20 grams) extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving

  1 cup black olives, such as Niçoise, washed and pitted (25 grams pitted)

  ¾ cup thinly sliced shallots (87.5 grams sliced)

  ¼ cup (75 grams) ruby port

  ½ cup (100 grams) water

  2½ teaspoons (12.5 grams) truffle juice (see Sources)

  1 teaspoon (20 grams) squid ink (available at specialty and gourmet shops and many fish stores)

  1½ teaspoons (10 grams) balsamic vinegar

  1½ teaspoons (20 grams) soy sauce

  0.5 gram xanthan gum (see Sources)

  FOR THE GNOCCHI:

  6 large Yukon gold potatoes, scrubbed and pricked with a fork

  ½ large (25 grams) egg

  ¼ cup (35 grams) finely grated Parmesan

  ¼ cup (35 grams) 00 flour (see Sources)

  1 teaspoon (5 grams) kosher salt, plus more to salt the pasta’s cooking water

  MAKE THE OLIVE PUREE

  Heat a medium, heavy pot over low heat. Add the olive oil, olives, and shallots and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, for 8 minutes, until the shallots are softened but not browned. Pour in the port and scrape off any bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Raise the heat to medium and bring the port to a simmer. Continue to cook until the port is reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Pour in the water and truffle juice, return to a simmer, and continue to simmer until the olives are softened, about 10 minutes. Stir in the squid ink, balsamic vinegar, and soy sauce.

  Transfer the mixture to a blender and blend on high for 1 minute. With the blender running, add the xanthan gum and blend until incorporated.

  Fill a large bowl with ice. Set a medium bowl over the ice and set a fine-mesh strainer over the bowl. Strain the mixture through the fine-mesh strainer. You should have 2 cups of puree. Transfer the bowl to the refrigerator and chill overnight. (You only need 50 grams, or 2 teaspoons, of puree for the gnocchi; the puree may be refrigerated for up to five days and used to make more gnocchi, or thinned with warm water and used as a sauce for the gnocchi.)

  MAKE THE GNOCCHI

  Preheat the oven to 350°F (177°C). Wrap the potatoes in aluminum foil and place on a baking tray. Bake until the potatoes are cooked through and fork-tender (cooking time will vary depending on potato size). Remove the tray from the oven and set the potatoes aside to cool for 20 minutes. Unwrap and cut each potato in half lengthwise. Scoop 8½ ounces (241 grams) of the flesh out of the skins into a large bowl. Discard the skins and press the flesh through a ricer. Keep warm.

  Put 2 teaspoons (50 grams) of the black olive puree and the egg in a small bowl and mix together with a rubber spatula until completely incorporated. Gently fold the puree mixture into the potatoes. Put the Parmesan, flour, and salt in a separate bowl and mix to incorporate. Gently fold the Parmesan mixture into the potatoes until a cohesive dough just forms (do not overwork).

  Lightly flour a work surface and roll the dough into 1 × ¼-inch batons. Place the batons on a floured, parchment-lined baking tray and chill in the refrigerator for 3 hours.

  Fill a medium pot about two-thirds full with water and salt liberally. Bring to a boil over high heat, then lower the heat so the liquid is simmering. Remove the batons from the refrigerator and add to the water. Blanch the batons until they float to the surface, about 1½ minutes. (The potatoes release tiny gas bubbles in the water, allowing the gnocchi to float as they start to cook. However, the middle of the gnocchi still remains uncooked. Floating the gnocchi for 30 seconds more allows for thorough cooking.)

  Use a slotted spoon or a spider to remove the gnocchi from the water and place on a warm sheet tray. Drizzle the gnocchi with olive oil and serve immediately.

  GREEN APPLE–WASABI SORBET

  MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

  I’ve always served this as a savory offering, but you can employ it as anything from an intermezzo to a dessert. If serving as a dessert, it would pair especially well with white chocolate, in either a crème or a ganache.

  2¼ cups (500 grams) fresh Granny Smith apple juice (pressed fresh or bottled)

  ¾ cup (100 grams) liquid glucose (see Sources)

  5 grams Low Acyl Gellan (Gellan F; see Sources)

  0.5 gram malic acid (see Sources)

  1 teaspoon (20 grams) fresh wasabi

  Put the apple juice and the liq
uid glucose in a Thermomix and begin blending on low. Heat the mixture to 194°F (90°C). Sprinkle in the Gellan and blend on high for 30 seconds until fully incorporated. Turn off the heat and keep blending while adding the malic acid and the wasabi. Blend for 30 seconds more until incorporated. Remove the mixture and transfer to Pacojet containers. Freeze the green apple–wasabi sorbet until solid, then spin in the Pacojet container two times.

  To serve, scoop teaspoon-size quenelles, placing them in small, chilled serving bowls. Serve with demitasse spoons.

  RED WINE “CANNELLONI”

  MAKES ABOUT 16 CANNELLONI; SERVES 8

  This recipe produces the cannelloni in the dish on this page, which features a pleasing interplay between the acidity of the red wine and the floral quality of the huckleberry. These are a delicious accompaniment to foie gras, game terrine, and any kind of smoked fish.

  FOR THE RED WINE GELÉE

  ¾ cup (350 grams) fresh beet juice

  1 cup (200 grams) robust red wine such as Shiraz

  1.6 grams Low Acyl Gellan (Gellan F; see Sources)

  0.16 gram High Acyl Gellan (Gellan LT; see Sources)

  FOR THE HUCKLEBERRY GELÉE

  1½ cups (300 grams) water

  5 grams Low Acyl Gellan (Gellan F; see Sources)

  1½ cups (200 grams) fresh huckleberries

  0.5 gram malic acid (see Sources)

  MAKE THE RED WINE GELÉE

  Pour the beet juice into a heavy pan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Cook for 5 minutes, skimming off any impurities that rise to the surface. Remove the pan from the heat and strain the juice through a cheesecloth-lined strainer into a bowl. Wipe out the pan and return the clarified beet juice to it. Bring to a boil over medium heat and let cook until the liquid is reduced to about ¼ cup. Remove the pan from the heat and let cool completely. Reserve until ready to use.