Heat a large, heavy pot over high heat and pour in the red wine and beet juice reduction. Heat until the temperature registers 194°F (90°C) on a digital thermometer. Add the Gellan F and Gellan LT and remove the pot from the heat. Use an immersion blender to blend the mixture until smooth, about 2 minutes.
Set the pot back over high heat and, whisking constantly, return the temperature of the mixture to 194°F (90°C). Skim off any excess foam. Remove the pot from the heat and strain the mixture through a chinois or very fine-mesh strainer into a sauce gun. Quickly dispense the mixture evenly onto 4 flat (7 × 5 × 1-inch) trays to form thin sheets, coating the bottom of the trays. Cover the trays tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours to set.
When ready to use the gelée, cut it into a minimum of 16 strips measuring 4 × 2.5 inches (10 × 6 centimeters). Remove them from the tray and set aside.
MAKE THE HUCKLEBERRY GELÉE
Set a large heavy pot over high heat and pour in the water. Heat until the temperature registers 194°F (90°C) on a digital thermometer. Add the Gellan F and remove the pot from the heat. Use an immersion blender to blend until fully emulsified. Add the huckleberries and the malic acid, return the pot to the heat, and bring to a boil. Remove the pot from the heat.
Fill a large bowl with ice. Transfer the huckleberry mixture to a medium bowl and place it over the ice bath to set into a firm block, about 30 minutes. Once the gelée is set, cut it into small pieces. Add the pieces to a high-speed blender and blend for 30 seconds to form a fluid gel, being careful not to heat the mixture. Fill a large bowl with ice. Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl and set over the ice for 2 minutes, stirring gently with a rubber spatula without aerating it to cool the mixture completely. Pass through a chinois or very fine-mesh strainer into a bowl. Keep covered in the refrigerator. (The mixture can be stored for up to three days.)
Transfer the huckleberry gelée to a piping bag or plastic pantry bag fitted with a Number 3 plain tip. Pipe a thin line of the huckleberry gelée down the center of each red wine gelée strip. Gently fold the strips around the huckleberry gelée to form cannelloni. Refrigerate for at least 20 minutes to set. You may store the cannelloni in the refrigerator until ready to serve, but they should be served the same day as prepared.
PLUM EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP
This recipe produces the plum olive oil used to dress the heirloom tomato preparation on this page. Accordingly, it would make a fine dressing for any tomatoes. Its fruity, green freshness also recommends it as a summer dressing for white beans, onions, or vegetables. For a twist on Caesar salad, use it to dress romaine lettuce. It’s also wonderful drizzled over scallops and lobster.
8 yellow plums, halved and pitted (335 grams pitted)
½ cup (170 grams) fresh pineapple juice
5 kaffir lime leaves (see Sources)
1½ tablespoons (15 grams) freshly squeezed lime juice
1 gram xanthan gum (see Sources)
¼ cup (30 grams) extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon (5 grams) fleur de sel
Put the plums, pineapple juice, and kaffir leaves in a medium, heavy pot. Top the pot with a cartouche (see Note) and set over low heat. Cook until the plums are tender and broken down, and their skin is soft, but still retain their yellow color with no browning, about 45 minutes. (Do not allow the liquid to simmer or boil; if it does, lower the heat immediately.) Remove the pot from the heat, remove the cartouche, and set the plums aside to cool for 30 minutes.
Set a fine-mesh strainer over a medium bowl and pass the plums through the strainer, pressing on the plums with a spatula. Discard the pulp and the leaves. Cool the plum juice infusion completely, then add the lime juice and stir together to incorporate. (You should have 2 cups of plum juice infusion.)
Transfer ¾ cup (150 grams) of the mixture to a high-speed blender and add the xanthan gum. (Save the remaining plum mixture to make another batch or two of the oil; it may be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to two days.) Blend until the mixture thickens. With the motor running, slowly add the olive oil in a steady stream until fully emulsified. Add the fleur de sel. Set a chinois or very fine-mesh strainer over a container set over ice, and strain the dressing through the strainer. (The oil may be used right away, or refrigerated in an airtight container for up to two days.)
RED CURRY JUS
MAKES 1 QUART (1 LITER)
1½ tablespoons (40 grams) grapeseed oil
13 ounces (750 grams) salmon bones, very dry, cut to 2.5 × 1.5-inch (6 × 4 centimeters) pieces (your fishmonger can provide these for you, or save the bones from another recipe)
½ cup (200 grams) Red Curry Paste (recipe follows)
3 tablespoons (50 grams) rice wine vinegar
3 cups (650 grams) Brown Chicken Stock
1 tablespoon (15 grams) red curry powder
0.5 gram xanthan gum (see Sources)
1 tablespoon (10 grams) freshly squeezed lime juice
2 teaspoons (10 grams) fleur de sel
Heat a large skillet over high heat and add the grapeseed oil. Heat until the oil is shimmering and almost smoking. Add the salmon bones and sauté until the bones are just golden brown on both sides, about 1½ minutes on each side. Remove the pan from the heat and transfer the bones to a large plate. Discard the oil from the pan and place over medium-low heat. Add the curry paste and stir constantly until the paste is toasted, about 2 minutes. (Do not allow the paste to scorch, which can happen easily.)
Pour in the rice wine vinegar and use a wooden spoon to scrape off any bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Cook until the pan is dry. Return the browned bones to the pan and pour in the chicken stock. Bring the mixture to a gentle simmer, then reduce the heat to low. Simmer until the liquid is reduced by one-third, using a tablespoon to skim off the excess fat from the surface of the jus. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the red curry powder. Cover the pan and set aside for 30 minutes to hydrate the curry powder.
Line a fine-mesh strainer with cheesecloth and set over a large bowl. Strain the jus through the cheesecloth-lined strainer and discard the salmon bones. Add the xanthan gum and use an immersion blender to blend the mixture until smooth. Set a fine-mesh strainer over a medium saucepot and strain the mixture into the saucepot. Stir in the lime juice and season to taste with fleur de sel. Let cool completely. (The jus can be covered and stored in the refrigerator for up to one week.)
RED CURRY PASTE
MAKES 2 CUPS
This is not a classic Thai red curry paste, but rather my interpretation of one. It’s a wonderful marinade for chicken, beef, or pork, and can also be used to marinate beetroot prior to roasting. For a green curry paste (a perfect finishing element for delicate spring salmon), add ramp tops to the recipe.
2 tablespoons (10 grams) whole coriander seeds
2 medium red shallots, small dice (50 grams diced)
2 cloves garlic, peeled, halved lengthwise, germ removed, minced (15 grams minced)
½ stalk lemongrass, tough outer layer removed and discarded, flesh finely chopped (50 grams chopped)
1 tablespoon plus 1½ teaspoons (20 grams) fleur de sel
1.5 ounces galangal, seeded and finely chopped (42.5 grams chopped)
1 tablespoon plus 1½ teaspoons (20 grams) palm sugar (see Sources)
2 limes, zested
2 tablespoons (50 grams) shrimp paste (see Sources)
12 cilantro stems with no leaves, finely chopped
6 red bird’s eye chiles, seeds removed
8 Holland red chiles, seeded and finely chopped
1 small combava (dried kaffir lime), grated on a microplane
Heat a medium, heavy pan over medium heat. Add the coriander seeds to the pan and toast them, shaking the pan to prevent scorching, until they are fragrant, 3 minutes. Set the pan aside and let the seeds cool.
Use a mortar and pestle to grind together the shallots, garlic, and lemongrass until a fine paste forms. Add the fl
eur de sel, galanga, palm sugar, lime zest, and shrimp paste. Continue to grind the mixture in the mortar and pestle until a fine, cohesive paste forms. Add the coriander seeds, cilantro, chiles, and combava. Continue to grind the mixture until a very fine paste forms. (You should have 2 cups of paste.)
Place the paste in a sealed plastic container and refrigerate for at least 24 hours to allow the flavors to mature. Use the red curry paste as needed. (The paste can be stored covered in the refrigerator for up to five days.)
WHITE TRUFFLE GNUDI WITH ABALONE BUTTER
MAKES 60 GNUDI, ENOUGH TO SERVE 6 TO 8
These gnudi can be served alongside proteins such as Dover sole.
FOR THE ABALONE BUTTER
1 cup (200 grams) crisp white wine
½ cup (100 grams) white wine vinegar
5 medium shallots, thinly sliced (125 grams sliced)
5 stalks parsley, stripped of their leaves
4 ounces (113 grams) abalone, sliced into thin strips
2 stalks lemongrass, smashed and cut into fine chiffonade (100 grams chiffonade)
¼ cup (100 grams) heavy cream
½ pound (2 sticks, 227 grams) cold unsalted butter, diced
Fleur de sel
Freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE GNUDI
1½ cups (250 grams) ricotta cheese
½ cup (50 grams) finely grated Parmesan cheese
1 large egg yolk (20 grams)
3.75 grams Activa YG (see Sources)
00 pasta flour (see Sources)
1 cup (150 grams) Abalone Butter
2 teaspoons (5 grams) minced fresh white truffle (see Sources)
Smoked fleur de sel (see Sources)
Freshly ground black pepper
MAKE THE ABALONE BUTTER
Heat a medium, heavy pot over medium heat. Add the wine, vinegar, shallots, parsley, abalone, and lemongrass and bring to a simmer. Continue to simmer until the liquid is reduced by one-third, 5 to 8 minutes. Pour in the cream, bring to a simmer, and continue to cook until the liquid is reduced by one-quarter, about 4 minutes. Add the butter a few pieces at a time, whisking to emulsify while the mixture simmers. As soon as all the butter is incorporated, remove the pot from the heat and season with the fleur de sel and pepper. Strain the mixture through a chinois or very fine-mesh strainer into a saucepan. Keep covered and warm until ready to use.
MAKE THE GNUDI
Line a fine-mesh strainer with a piece of cheesecloth. Set the strainer over a medium bowl and add the ricotta. Place in the refrigerator and drain for 12 hours, to remove all the moisture from the ricotta.
Combine the strained ricotta, Parmesan, egg yolk, and Activa in a large bowl (discard the strained liquid). Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour. Remove the mixture from the refrigerator and use a scale to weigh out 5-gram pieces (roughly 1 rounded teaspoon each) of the ricotta mixture. Dust your hands with the flour and roll the ricotta pieces gently between your palms to form small balls, ½ inch (1.3 centimeters) in diameter. Place the balls on a lightly floured baking tray and repeat until all the mixture is used (you should have about 60 balls). Lightly dust the formed ricotta balls with additional flour and cover the pan with plastic wrap. Refrigerate until the ricotta balls are firm, about 1 hour.
Remove the balls from the refrigerator and repeat the rolling and dusting process to form them into perfect spheres. Cover the balls with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. (During this resting period, the flour will be absorbed and a light skin will form around the balls.)
Remove the balls from the refrigerator, and dust and roll the balls once again with flour. (It is essential that the mixture be kept cold to maintain the spherical shape, so keep the tray in the refrigerator as you cook each batch.)
To serve, melt some of the abalone butter in a medium, heavy pan over low heat. Add the gnudi and very gently swirl them in the pan, 1 to 2 minutes without allowing the butter to boil. Add the truffle to the pan, swirling to coat the gnudi, and spoon the gnudi and butter into dishes. Season with fleur de sel and black pepper. Serve at once.
BEET-HIBISCUS-GLAZED FOIE GRAS
MAKES 40 BALLS
Over the years, I’ve glazed foie gras with everything from almond milk to spiced apple juice to black truffle, and this version is one that I keep coming back to. In addition to being served on its own as a cold dish, foie gras makes an apt pairing with Rossini-style beef.
You will need forty 1-inch spherical silicone molds (see Sources). Be sure to wear insulated or cryogenic gloves to protect your hands when working with liquid nitrogen.
FOR THE FOIE GRAS
9 ounces (255 grams) grade A foie gras
1¹⁄³ cups (250 grams) whole milk
1¹⁄³ cups (250 grams) water
0.5 gram pink curing salt (sodium nitrite; see Sources)
1 teaspoon (5 grams) fleur de sel
0.5 gram freshly ground white peppercorns
FOR THE BEET-HIBISCUS GLAZE AND ASSEMBLY
2½ cups (500 grams) fresh beet juice (juice your own or purchase from a juice bar)
7.5 grams agar-agar (see Sources)
1 cup (20 grams) hibiscus flowers (see Sources)
½ cup (5 grams) fresh orange peel strips, no pith attached
4 sheets (10 grams) gelatin
Liquid nitrogen (check your Yellow Pages for a local supplier)
MAKE THE FOIE GRAS
Put the foie gras in a large bowl, and pour the milk and the water over the top. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
Remove the soaked foie gras from the liquid and thoroughly pat it dry with a paper towel. (Discard the liquid.) Put the foie gras on a baking tray and cover with plastic wrap. Set it aside to come to room temperature. Use tweezers to carefully remove the veins and the blood spots.
Combine the pink salt, fleur de sel, and peppercorns in a small bowl. Place the foie gras on a sheet of plastic wrap and season it with the pink salt mixture. Cover with an additional sheet of plastic wrap and set aside to cure in the refrigerator for 8 hours or overnight.
Transfer the foie gras to a vacuum bag and seal at 100 percent vacuum. Bring a water bath in an immersion circulator to 131°F (55°C) and add the bag. Cook until the internal temperature of the foie gras reads 131°F (55°C) on a thermometer, about 15 minutes.
Fill a large bowl with ice. Set a medium bowl over the ice. Remove the foie gras from the water bath, cut open the bag, and pour it into the medium bowl. Blend the foie gras with an immersion blender until it is fully emulsified, about 15 seconds. Stir gently with a rubber spatula to release any air bubbles, and continue stirring until the foie gras is chilled to 104°F (40°C), and thickened (be careful not to break the emulsion).
Use a spatula to gently transfer the foie gras into a large plastic piping bag. Cut the tip of the bag with a scissors and pipe the foie gras into forty 1-inch spherical silicone molds. Gently tap the molds on your work surface to release any air bubbles. Place the molds in the refrigerator to set overnight.
MAKE THE BEET-HIBISCUS GLAZE
Pour the beet juice into a medium, heavy saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Cook for 5 minutes, using a tablespoon to skim off any impurities that rise to the surface. Remove the pan from the heat and strain through a cheesecloth-lined strainer to remove any stray particles.
Carefully wipe out the pan. Pour the clarified beet juice into it, and bring it back to a boil over medium heat. Continue to boil until reduced by approximately one-third (you will have about 2¼ cups). Remove the pan from the heat and let the reduction cool completely. Cover and refrigerate.
Heat a heavy, medium pot over medium-low heat. Pour in 2 cups of the beet juice and sprinkle in the agar-agar. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook, whisking constantly, for 5 minutes to fully hydrate the agar-agar (it will dissolve into the liquid). Use a tablespoon to skim off any impurities that rise to the surface, and remove the pot from the heat. Set aside for 5 minutes, then add the h
ibiscus flowers, the orange peel, and the gelatin sheets. Whisk until the gelatin is completely dissolved, and set aside for 7 minutes to allow the hibiscus and orange to infuse the liquid. Strain the mixture through a chinois or very fine-mesh strainer over a medium, heavy pot. (You should have 2 cups.) Set the pot over very low heat and keep the glaze at 122°F (50°C).
Remove the foie gras balls from the molds and gently thread onto metal skewers. Pour the liquid nitrogen into an insulated bowl (see Sources). Working with 1 skewer at a time, and holding it by one end, dip the balls into the liquid nitrogen for 5 seconds, then remove the skewer and dip it into the warm beet-hibiscus glaze for 1 second, and remove it. Hover the foie gras ball above the liquid nitrogen for 3 seconds. Dip once more into the glaze for 1 second, and hover again above the nitrogen for 3 seconds. Gently remove the skewer from the ball, taking care to not break the glaze, and place on a metal tray. Repeat with the remaining balls, cover the tray with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or up to 24 hours.
Let rest at room temperature for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.
BEER-BRINED PORK SHOULDER
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
6 cups (1,500 grams) water
1 cup (115 grams) kosher salt
1 teaspoon (10 grams) pink curing salt (sodium nitrite; see Sources)
4 cups (1,000 grams) white beer (preferably Japanese Hitachino white ale)
4 pounds (1.8 kilograms) Berkshire pork shoulder, off the bone (ask your butcher to prepare this for you)
½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) fleur de sel
½ teaspoon (8 grams) ground green peppercorns
Make a brine by adding the water, kosher salt, and pink salt to a large pot and bringing it to a boil over high heat. When the salt has fully dissolved, remove the pot from the heat. Let cool and refrigerate overnight in an airtight container.
The next day, remove the brine from the refrigerator and stir in the beer.
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