Cut the pork shoulder into 4 large, equal pieces and put them in a large bowl. Pour the brine over the pork shoulder. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 36 hours.
Remove the pork shoulder pieces from the brine and use paper towels to dry the pieces fully. Discard the brine mixture. Divide the pieces into 4 vacuum bags and seal at 100 percent vacuum. Bring a water bath in an immersion circulator to 153°F (67°C). Add the bags and cook the pork for 24 hours. Remove the bags and allow them to sit at room temperature for 20 minutes. Fill a large bowl with ice water and add the bags to the water for 30 minutes. Drain the ice water and cover the bags fully with ice until the internal temperature of the pork registers 34°F (1.1°C), which may take 1 to 2 hours. Remove the bags from the ice and place on a baking tray. Press a weight atop the pork to set a flat shape and refrigerate overnight.
Remove the pork from the bags and use a sharp knife to cut the pieces into 1½ × 1½-inch cubes. Heat a large, heavy skillet over low heat and add the pork, skin side down. Cook until the pork is caramelized and thoroughly heated through, about 6 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and transfer the pork to a wire cooling rack. Rest for 2 minutes, then season with the fleur de sel and peppercorns.
BEETROOT-BLACKBERRY MERINGUE
MAKES 20 TO 25 SMALL OR 10 TO 12 LARGE MERINGUES
Serve these with red-fruit sorbets or caviar.
2½ cups (500 grams) beet juice (juice your own or purchase from a juice bar)
FOR THE SIMPLE SYRUP
½ cup (100 grams) water
½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
FOR THE MERINGUES
5 sheets (12 grams) gelatin
1 ¾ cups (430 grams) reduced clarified beet juice (as prepared)
½ cup (15 grams) freeze-dried blackberries (see Sources)
2 teaspoons (10 grams) cassis liqueur
3 tablespoons (24 grams) egg white powder (see Sources)
1.2 grams xanthan gum (see Sources)
¼ cup Simple Syrup
Pour the beet juice into a medium, heavy pan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Cook for 5 minutes, using a tablespoon to skim off any impurities. Remove the pan from the heat and strain through a cheesecloth-lined strainer into a bowl to remove any stray particles.
Carefully wipe out the pan, pour the clarified beet juice into it, and bring to a boil over medium heat. Continue to boil until reduced by approximately half (you will have about 1¾ cups, or 430 grams). Remove the pan from the heat, and let the reduction cool completely. Reserve until ready to use.
MAKE THE SIMPLE SYRUP
Combine the water and sugar in a small, heavy pot and bring to a boil. Remove the pot from the heat, cool, and reserve. (You should have 1 cup simple syrup. Note that the meringue recipe only uses ¼ cup; refrigerate the rest in an airtight container for another use.)
MAKE THE MERINGUES
Fill a small bowl halfway with ice water. Add the gelatin and let it bloom for 5 minutes.
Put the clarified beet juice, blackberries, cassis, egg white powder, and xanthan gum in a medium bowl and blend with an immersion blender until fully combined and emulsified. Cover and refrigerate.
Squeeze the gelatin to release any excess liquid and place in a medium, heavy pan. Add the simple syrup and warm over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the gelatin is completely dissolved, about 1 minute. Pour the mixture into a medium heatproof bowl and let cool to room temperature.
Pour the cold beet mixture into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and whip on high speed until soft peaks form, about 2 minutes. With the mixer still on, slowly stream in the syrup-gelatin mixture, making sure that everything is incorporated, and whip until stiff peaks are achieved, 2 to 3 minutes.
Transfer the meringue mix to a piping bag fitted with a Number 3 plain tip, or a disposable piping bag, snipping off the tip. Pipe a quarter-size beet meringue on acetate and place in a dehydrator set at 115°F (46°C) for 24 hours. Keep the meringues in the dehydrator until needed, but no longer than three days. Gently remove from the acetate when ready to serve.
SAFFRON VANILLA FUDGE, BANANA GANACHE, MATCHA
MAKES 6 SERVINGS, 2 PIECES PER SERVING
FOR THE SAFFRON FUDGE
½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
1 tablespoon (12.5 grams) water
1 tablespoon (31.25 grams) liquid glucose (see Sources)
¼ cup (115 grams) heavy cream
½ piece vanilla bean, split and scraped
2½ ounces (71 grams) salted butter, cut into cubes and at room temperature
0.25 gram saffron threads
1 tablespoon (15 grams) fleur de sel
FOR THE VANILLA SABAYON
¾ sheet (2 grams) gelatin
1¼ cups (250 grams) heavy cream
½ vanilla bean, split and scraped
2 large (50 grams) egg whites
¼ cup (45 grams) granulated sugar
FOR THE BANANA GANACHE
¾ sheet (2 grams) gelatin
¼ cup (62.5 grams) pureed banana
1.25 grams freeze-dried banana powder (see Sources)
2.7 ounces (76.5 grams) white chocolate, coarsely chopped
2 teaspoons (10 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature
FOR THE MATCHA SABLÉ AND ASSEMBLY
2.8 ounces (79 grams) unsalted butter, cubed and at room temperature
¹⁄³ cup (80 grams) sugar
2 large (40 grams) egg yolks
1 cup (100 grams) all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling out the dough
2 tablespoons (7.5 grams) baking powder
1 teaspoon (5 grams) matcha green tea powder (see Note)
Fleur de sel
Extra-virgin olive oil
MAKE THE SAFFRON FUDGE
Heat a medium, heavy pot over medium heat. Add the sugar, water, and glucose and heat until the temperature reaches 320°F (160°C) on a digital thermometer. Deglaze the mixture with the cream in two stages: first, add half of the cream, stirring until the mixture is fully emulsified; then pour in the remaining cream and stir to dissolve the sugars. Reduce the heat to low and add the vanilla bean pod. Cook the mixture very slowly for four hours, stirring frequently, until the temperature reaches 246°F (119°C). Remove the cream mixture from the heat and slowly add the butter, stirring constantly. Once the butter is completely emulsified, stir in the saffron, fleur de sel, and vanilla bean seeds.
Line a sheet tray with a Silpat nonstick mat and place two 1-inch-high caramel rulers (see Sources) spaced about 12 inches apart on it. Remove the vanilla pod and pour the fudge mixture onto the sheet tray, gently tapping the tray to release any air bubbles. (The mixture should be about ¾ inch high.) Place the sheet tray in the refrigerator and chill until the mixture is set, about 2 hours. Remove the fudge from the Silpat and use a sharp knife to cut the fudge into 1½ × 1½-inch squares. Place the squares on a Silpat-lined sheet tray and refrigerate. Remove the fudge from the refrigerator 10 minutes before serving to temper.
MAKE THE VANILLA SABAYON
Fill a small bowl with ice water. Add the gelatin and set aside to bloom for 5 minutes. Heat a heavy, medium pot over low heat and add the cream and vanilla bean pod. Bring to a simmer. Remove the pot from the heat, cover, and set aside to infuse for 1 hour.
In a large bowl, whisk together the egg whites and sugar until they are light and fluffy but not stiff. Strain the cream mixture through a chinois or very fine-mesh strainer. Add a small amount of the whipped egg whites to the cream and use a spatula to fold them together. Add the rest of the egg whites and gently fold until just incorporated. Add the mixture to a double boiler and heat over low heat until the mixture reaches 176°F (80°C) on a digital thermometer. Remove from the heat and stir in the bloomed gelatin and vanilla bean seeds. Stir until the gelatin is completely dissolved and incorporated.
Fill a large bowl with ice water and place a medium bowl on top. Set a chinois or very fine-mesh strainer over the bowl and strain t
he sabayon mixture through it, stirring to chill evenly. (You should have 2 cups.) Refrigerate the sabayon until ready to use.
MAKE THE BANANA GANACHE
Fill a small bowl with ice water. Add the gelatin and set aside to bloom for 5 minutes. Put the banana puree and banana powder in a medium, heavy pot. Use an immersion blender to blend until smooth, then place the pot over low heat. Bring the mixture to a simmer, then remove the pan from the heat. Cover the pan with a lid and set aside to infuse for 20 minutes.
Melt the white chocolate in the upper pot of a double boiler set over simmering water. Add the butter and stir to incorporate and emulsify completely. Add the bloomed gelatin and the banana mixture to the chocolate mixture, and keep stirring until completely emulsified. While the mixture is still warm, strain it through a chinois or very fine-mesh strainer into a bowl (you should have just over ½ cup). Set aside to cool, uncovered, in the refrigerator. Once the mixture is cooled, transfer to a piping bag fitted with a small tip.
MAKE THE MATCHA SABLÉ
Add the butter and sugar to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Cream together until the mixture is lightened and fluffy. Add the egg yolks and mix to incorporate. Sift the flour, baking powder, and 1 teaspoon of the matcha through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium bowl and whisk to incorporate. Slowly sift the flour mixture into the butter mixture and mix until incorporated and a dough forms. Remove the dough from the mixer and wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate it overnight.
Preheat the oven to 320°F (160°C). Remove the dough from the refrigerator, unwrap, and place on a lightly floured work surface. Roll the dough into a circle 3 millimeters thick. Use a 1½-inch round cutter to punch out 12 discs and transfer the discs to a Silpat-lined sheet tray. Bake the sablés for 6 minutes, until they are set but not browned. Remove from the oven and let cool completely.
TO FINISH THE DISH
Spoon the vanilla sabayon into a mixing bowl. Whisk until medium peaks form, then transfer the sabayon to a piping bag fitted with a medium tip. Pipe a firm dollop, about 1 inch in diameter, on the center of a plate. Gently place a matcha sablé directly on top. Layer the saffron fudge on top of the sablé. Season with fleur de sel. Pipe the banana ganache over the fudge, draping the ganache over the edge. Drizzle with olive oil and fleur de sel. Dust with the remaining ½ teaspoon matcha powder and serve.
DUCK LEG TORTE
MAKES 4 TORTES
Though I serve this as part of a multi-preparation duck course, this torte may also be served alongside a simple salad.
FOR THE FOIE GRAS
1 lobe grade A foie gras
2½ cups (500 grams) whole milk
2½ cups (500 grams) water
FOR THE FILLING
4 cups (1,000 grams) water
¼ cup (45 grams) kosher salt
½ teaspoon (5 grams) pink curing salt (sodium nitrite; see Sources)
½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
2 stalks lemongrass, thinly sliced (100 grams sliced)
10 whole juniper berries
1 small knob fresh ginger, thinly sliced (about 1 teaspoon, or 10 grams sliced)
2 fresh bay leaves
1 tablespoon (12 grams) whole mustard seeds
1 tablespoon (5 grams) whole coriander seeds
1 pound (453.5 grams) duck leg (2 large legs), deboned, fat side scored with a sharp knife
1 ounce (28 grams) Activa RM (see Sources)
2 ounces (57 grams) foie gras (as prepared)
FOR THE SAVORY TORTE DOUGH
½ pound (2 sticks, 227 grams) salted butter
4 cups (500 grams) all-purpose flour, sifted, plus extra for dusting
2 tablespoons (15 grams) fleur de sel, sifted
1 tablespoon (15 grams) granulated sugar, sifted
½ cup (170 grams) whole milk, warmed slightly
4 duck foie gras fillings (see below)
1 large egg yolk (20 grams)
1 teaspoon (5 grams) cocoa nibs, crushed
MAKE THE FOIE GRAS
Put the foie gras, milk, and water in a large bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight. Remove the foie gras from the bowl and pat dry with paper towels. Use a warm, sharp knife to cut it into 2 × 1-inch slices. Pat the slices dry again with paper towels and use a tweezers to remove any veins or blood spots. Put the foie gras on a baking tray and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Refrigerate until ready to use.
MAKE THE FILLING
Heat a medium, heavy pot over medium heat and add the water, kosher salt, pink salt, sugar, lemongrass, juniper berries, ginger, bay leaves, mustard seeds, and coriander seeds. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook until the salts and sugar dissolve. Remove the pot from the heat and let cool, uncovered, in the refrigerator overnight.
Set a chinois or very fine-mesh strainer over a large bowl and strain the brine mixture through it. Add the duck to the mixture and cover with a lid or plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight.
Remove the duck from the brine and pat dry with paper towels. Discard the brine. Lay a piece of plastic wrap down on a cool work surface and set 1 duck leg on top, fat side down. Lightly dust the flesh side of the duck with the Activa. Lay the next duck leg, fat side down, and repeat the same process until there are three layers of Activa coating (the final layer of coating is on the outside). Put the duck in a large vacuum bag and seal at 100 percent vacuum. Bring a water bath in an immersion circulator to 162°F (72°C) and add the duck. Cook for 18 hours.
Remove the bag from the water bath and allow it to sit at room temperature for 20 minutes in the vacuum bag. Fill a large bowl with ice water and add the bag to the water for 30 minutes. Drain the ice water and cover the bag fully with ice until the internal temperature registers 34°F (1.1°C), 1 to 2 hours. Remove the bag from the ice and place the duck on a sheet tray. Press a weight atop the duck to set a flat shape and refrigerate overnight.
Remove the pressed duck from the bag, and cut the meat into four 2 × 1-inch cubes. Place a slice of the prepared foie gras atop the duck. Place the duck foie gras on a chilled tray and refrigerate for at least 3 hours to chill and set the shape. (The duck component must be cold when you finally assemble the torte.)
MAKE THE TORTE DOUGH
Cube the butter and allow it to come up to room temperature. Put the flour, fleur de sel, and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and paddle together on medium speed, then add the butter and mix until incorporated. With the motor running, stream in the milk until a cohesive dough is formed, about 90 seconds. Turn out and knead on a lightly floured surface until the dough is very smooth, about 5 minutes. With floured hands, shape the dough into a ball, wrap in plastic, and let rest overnight in the refrigerator.
Dust a clean work surface with flour and roll the dough out to a ¹⁄8-inch-thick sheet. (Do this quickly, as the dough must be very cold while rolling out.) Place it on a floured, parchment-lined sheet tray, wrap in plastic wrap, and chill in the refrigerator for 3 hours.
Unwrap the chilled dough and punch out 6-inch rounds. Lay one round of dough onto a 3-inch demi-sphere mold (see Sources) lined with plastic wrap. Place the duck foie gras filling in the mold with the foie gras side down.
Take another 6-inch round of dough and brush one side with egg yolk. Lay the second round atop the torte, egg yolk side down, to form a ravioli. Repeat three more times for three more molds. Turn the molds upside down onto a floured, parchment-lined sheet tray. Take a ring that is ½ inch larger than the demi-sphere mold and punch down around the mold to remove excess dough. Press a flour-dusted fork around the edge of dough to crimp and seal. Carefully remove the mold and plastic.
Punch a ¹⁄8-inch hole at the top of the dome to allow steam to release while the torte is baking. Place in the refrigerator for 3 hours. Very lightly brush the tortes with egg yolk and season with cocoa nibs.
Preheat a convection oven to 350°F (177°C). Place the prepared tortes on a Silpat-lined baking tray and bake (low fan) for 13 m
inutes, or until evenly golden brown. Use a spatula to transfer the tortes to a cooling rack. Let rest for 5 minutes prior to serving. (The finished tortes may be refrigerated overnight on a plastic-wrapped tray.)
SPAGHETTI WITH LAMB BOLOGNESE
MAKES 1 QUART (1 LITER) OF SAUCE; SERVES 4
This popular staff, or family, meal at Corton offers a clever honoring of the kitchen tradition of not wasting any part of an ingredient. Italian Bolognese is traditionally made with a combination of beef, veal, and pork. But in my kitchen at Corton, we’ve made it a lusty, unabashedly flavorful way to use the parts of a lamb that are left after the butchering. This also is my personal attempt at keeping my kitchen happy. I remember all too well the paltry staff meals—or lack of meals entirely—at the kitchens that I came up in, and how desperately hungry and exhausted we were during service.
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil plus extra for drizzling
1 pound (453.5 grams) lamb rump (ground by your butcher)
½ pound (227 grams) lamb neck pieces (ground by your butcher)
½ medium onion, minced
2½ medium cloves garlic, minced
1 small carrot, peeled and finely diced
3 whole star anise
1½ (12.5 grams) jalapeño chile peppers, seeded, rib removed, and finely diced
¾ cup (150 grams) Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey
1 tablespoon plus 1½ teaspoons tomato paste
½ cup (125 grams) whole milk
¼ cup (125 grams) lamb cooking jus (from recipe) or lamb stock
1 green bell pepper, seeded
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
½ pound (227 grams) dried spaghetti
1 cylinder of the Finishing Butter (recipe follows)
Heat a large, heavy pan over high heat. Pour in the oil and heat until it is shimmering and almost smoking. Add the lamb rump and neck and brown the meat, stirring often to ensure even cooking, until well and evenly caramelized, about 10 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the meat to a plate and set it aside.
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