To the Bone
Page 22
Lower the heat to medium-low and add the onion, garlic, carrot, star anise, and two-thirds of the diced jalapeños. Cook, stirring until the vegetables are caramelized, about 8 minutes. Pour in the whiskey and add the tomato paste. Stir with a rubber spatula to coat the vegetables with the paste, and continue to cook and stir until the whiskey is reduced by half, about 4 minutes.
Return the meat to the pan. Pour in the milk and jus. Cover with a cartouche (see Note) and slowly braise on the stove top for 8 hours, stirring occasionally to keep the meat and sauce from sticking to the bottom of the pan.
Remove the pan from the heat, let cool to room temperature, then cool in the refrigerator overnight, with the cartouche in place.
Preheat the oven to 325°F (163°C). To roast the bell pepper, impale it on a long kitchen fork and cook it in the flame of a gas jet, turning it, until the skin is blackened all over. When cool enough to handle, peel off the skin, drizzle olive oil over it, and season it with salt and pepper. Put the bell pepper in a small baking vessel, cover it with foil, and bake for 25 minutes. Remove and let the pepper cool, and dice it.
When ready to serve, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the spaghetti to the boiling salted water and cook until al dente, about 9 minutes.
Remove the cartouche from the Bolognese and use a slotted spoon to fish out and discard the star anise. Rewarm the Bolognese over medium-low heat. Stir the remaining one-third diced jalapeños and the diced bell pepper into the sauce. Dice the finishing butter and stir it into the sauce, a few pieces at a time, to thicken it.
Drain the pasta, shaking out the excess water, and transfer it to the pan with the Bolognese, tossing well. Divide the pasta and sauce among 4 plates or wide, shallow bowls, and serve.
FINISHING BUTTER
MAKES TWO 10-INCH CYLINDERS
This compound, or flavored, butter is a potent finishing agent for the Bolognese and a fine way to augment any lamb sauce. For a dramatic and different take on garlic bread, spread it over toasted bread.
½ pound (2 sticks, 227 grams) unsalted butter, softened at room temperature
¼ cup (40 grams) Madras curry powder
2 teaspoons (10 grams) ground star anise
4 small limes, finely zested and juiced
2 tablespoons (10 grams) Tabasco Green Sauce
2 tablespoons (10 grams) Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey
2 tablespoons (10 grams) ketchup
1½ teaspoons (10 grams) freshly, finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1 tablespoon (5 grams) Worcestershire sauce
Put all the ingredients in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix on low speed until the ingredients come together into a smooth mixture, about 3 minutes.
Use a rubber spatula to scrape the butter out of the bowl and onto a clean, dry work surface. Divide it in half and shape each half into a 10-inch-long cylinder. Wrap each cylinder tautly in plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use. (The butter will keep for up to two weeks.)
SOURCES
AMAZON
www.amazon.com
FOR: 00 flour, demi-sphere molds, egg white powder, feuilletine, freeze-dried banana powder, freeze-dried blackberries, Low Acyl Gellan (Gellan F), High Acyl Gellan (Gellan LT), gold leaf, glucose syrup, liquid glucose, palm sugar, shrimp paste, specialty chocolates
D’ARTAGNAN
www.dartagnan.com; 800-327-8246
FOR: duck fat, foie gras
THE INGREDIENT FINDER
www.theingredientfinder.com
FOR: smoked fleur de sel, vadouvan spice
JB PRINCE
www.jbprince.com
FOR: caramel rulers, silicone molds, sous vide equipment and supplies
KALUSTYAN’S
www.kalustyans.com; 800-352-3451
FOR: hibiscus flowers, kaffir lime leaves, matcha green tea powder, piment d’espelette, pink curing salt (sodium nitrite), sel gris, vadouvan spice
THE MODERNIST PANTRY
www.modernistpantry.com; 469-443-6634
FOR: Activa RM, Activa YG, agar-agar, N2O chargers, Crisp Film, iSi Soda Siphon, malic acid, sodium hexametaphosphate, soy lecithin powder, xanthan gum
PLANTIN
www.plantin-truffle.com
FOR: truffles, truffle juice, and other truffle products
SHERRY-LEHMANN
www.sherry-lehmann.com; 212-838-7500
FOR: Chartreuse
TESTEK INSTRUMENTS
www.testek.ca
FOR: insulated bowl (liquid nitrogen cooking bowl)
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
I would like to offer my heartfelt appreciation to the following colleagues for their contributions to this project:
Andrew Friedman, for his brilliant words
Evan Sung, for his brilliant photography
Heston Blumenthal, for his exceedingly generous and humbling foreword, and for being a good countryman
Pam Krauss, publisher of Clarkson Potter, for her longtime support and encouragement
A huge thank-you to all my team, past and present: Michelle Quintana, Mazen Mustafa, Victoria Blamey, Ari Weiswasser, and Tom Rice, to name a few
My agent, David Black, for his shepherding of this project from its inception
My editor, Jessica Freeman-Slade, and the entire design and marketing teams at Clarkson Potter: Stephanie Huntwork, James Massey, Jane Treuhaft, Amy Boorstein, Kate Tyler, and Maha Khalil
And to Arleene: Simply, thank you … with all my heart
INDEX
Note: Page numbers in italics refer to photographs and captions.
Achatz, Grant
Acosta, Amador
Adrià, Albert
Adrià, Ferran, 2.1, 2.2, 10.1
Aikens, Tom
Arzak, Juan Mari
Asian foods and flavors, 1.1, 4.1, 4.2, 7.1, 7.2, 8.1
See also Japanese foods and flavors
Atlas, 10.1
audition, 10.1, 10.2
author as chef, 10.1, 10.2, 10.3
food, photo, 10.2, 10.3, 10.4, 10.5, 10.6, 10.7
reviews, 10.1, 10.2
audition menus
Atlas audition, 10.1, 10.2
Berasategui, Martín, photo
Bernard (L’Escargot pastry chef), 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4
berries, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3
Beetroot-Blackberry Meringue, photo, bm.1
Red Wine “Cannelloni,” photo, bm.1
Berthold, Jason, 10.1, 10.2
Berwick Street Market, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 2.1
Besson, Luc
Bistrong, Brian
Blanc, Raymond, 6.1, 6.2, 6.4
See also Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons
Blumenthal, Heston, ix, 8.1, 13.1
Books for Cooks
Bouley, 8.1
author’s kitchen experiences, 8.1, 8.2, 8.3
Bouley Bakery
Bouley, David, 8.1, 13.1
See also Bouley
Boulud, Daniel, 8.1, 10.1, 13.1
Bourdain, Anthony
Bras, Michel
British cuisine, 3.1, photo, 4.1, 4.2
Bruni, Frank
See also New York Times
butchery
Butterkist popcorn, ix, x, 1.1, 13.1
Carey, Mariah, 4.1
cartouche
Caterer and Hotelkeeper, 2.1, 6.1
Cavalier, David, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3
See also L’Escargot
Chanterelle
chefs’ memoirs
White Heat, 2.1, 2.3, 2.4
Chinese food
chocolate
“The Gold Bar,” xi, photo, bm.1
citrus fruits, 4.1, 7.1
Clarke, Bob Carlos
Coleman, David
color, 4.1, 7.1
cookbooks, 2.1, 2.2, 10.1
White Heat, 2.1, 2.3, 2.4
Corton, 13.1
food, photo, 13.2, photo, 13.4, epl.1
reviews and press, 13.1, 13.2
staff and management, 13.1, 13.2, 13.3, epl.1, epl.2
See also recipes; signature dishes
culinary training, 2.1, 2.3, 3.1
becoming chef, 10.1
working in France, 6.1
The Cure
Daniel (restaurant), 8.1, 10.1, 13.1
Davis, Simon, 2.1, 2.2, 3.1, 6.1, epl.1
DeChellis, Josh, 8.1, 8.2, 9.1
Derby, Francis
desserts. See pastry and desserts
DiSpirito, Rocco, 8.1, 9.1
DJ gigs, 2.1, 3.1
drinking and partying, 2.1, 2.2
Ducasse, Alain, 10.1, 12.1
Ducasse restaurants, 9.1, 10.1, 10.2, 12.1
early years, ix, 1.1
Berwick Street Market, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 2.1
boarding school food, 1.1
Chinatown
culinary experiments, 2.1, 2.3
dishes inspired by, photo, photo
favorite foods, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6
first kitchen job, 1.1
movies and music, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 2.1, 2.2, 2.4
social life, 1.1
White’s influence, 2.1
See also L’Escargot; Marco Pierre White (restaurant); Pied à Terre
Eckerton Hill Farm
El Bulli, 2.1, 10.1, 12.1
cookbook
The Elm
Elysian Fields Sheep Farm
ethnic restaurants, 1.1, 8.1, 8.2, 8.3
The Fat Duck, x
fish and seafood, 3.1, 3.2
Blowfish with Vadouvan Spice and Burnt Laurel, 4.1, bm.1
Halibut Jamón, 8.1, bm.1
Rabbit-Cuttlefish Rillettes, photo, bm.1
Scallop “Pasta,” photo, bm.1
See also signature dishes
foie gras, 2.1, 2.2, 12.1
Beet-Hibiscus-Glazed Foie Gras, photo, bm.1
signature dishes photographed, photo, photo, photo
Food & Wine
France, 6.1, 6.3
The French Laundry
Gagnaire, Pierre, 7.1, 7.2, 13.1, bm.1
cuisine of, 6.1, 7.1, 7.2, 7.3, 7.4, 7.5, 7.6
See also Pierre Gagnaire (restaurant)
Gandolfini, James
Gehry, Frank
Gilt, 12.1
food, 12.1, photo, 12.3, photo
reviews
Gold, Jonathan
Gossett, Della
Gotham Bar and Grill
Goto, Stephanie
Gourmet magazine,
Greenspan, Eric, 8.1, 8.2
Grimes, William, 10.1, 10.2, 10.3, 10.4, 11.1
Guérard, Michel
Guy Savoy (restaurant)
Harvey’s, 2.1, 2.2, 3.1, 3.2
Helnwein, Gottfried
Hollihead, Garry, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3
See also L’Escargot
James Beard Foundation
Japanese foods and flavors, 7.1, 7.2, 8.1, 8.2
at Atlas, 10.1
at Pierre Gagnaire, 7.1, 7.2
in signature dishes, photo, photo, photo, photo, photo, photo
Jean-Georges (restaurant)
Jimmy (manager at Atlas), 10.1, 10.2, 10.3, 10.4, 10.5
Jouin, Patrick, 12.1
Keller, Thomas, 10.1, 10.2, 12.1, 13.1
Kinch, David
Kitchen Confidential (Bourdain),
Koffmann, Pierre
Korean food
Kunz, Gray
Lahoud, Jimmy
lamb, photo
Braised Lamb Neck, photo, bm.1
Spaghetti with Lamb Bolognese, bm.1
La Tante Claire, 4.1, 6.1
Le Bernardin
Le Cirque
Le Gans, 9.1
Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, 6.1, 7.1, 8.1
author’s kitchen experiences, 6.1, 6.3, 6.5
food, 6.1, 6.2, 8.1
Leon, Juan
L’Escargot, 2.1, 5.1, 12.1, epl.1
author’s kitchen experiences, 2.1, 2.3, 2.4, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.10
food, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.6
staff accommodations and social life, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.5, 2.7
Lespinasse, 8.1, 8.2, 10.1
Les Saveurs, 2.1
limes, 4.1
London. See British cuisine; early years; specific restaurants and chefs
Mac, Johnny
Manresa
Marco Pierre White (restaurant), 3.1
author’s kitchen experiences, 3.1, 3.3, 3.5, 3.7, 3.8
food, 3.1, 3.2, 3.4, 3.5, 4.1
social life, 3.1
Marks & Spencer, 1.1
Martin, Keith
Mast Brothers chocolate
A Matter of Taste: Serving Up Paul Liebrandt, 11.1, 12.1
McNally, Keith
meats and poultry:
Beer-Brined Pork Shoulder, photo, bm.1
Braised Lamb Neck, photo, bm.1
Brown Chicken Stock
Duck Leg Torte, photo, bm.1
Rabbit-Cuttlefish Rillettes, photo, bm.1
signature dishes photographed, photo, photo, photo, photo, photo, photo, photo
Spaghetti with Lamb Bolognese, bm.1
Tête de Cochon, photo, bm.1
See also foie gras
Michelin guides, 2.1, 2.2, 12.1, 12.2, 13.1, 13.2
modernist cuisine
molecular gastronomy, 10.1, 10.2
Montrachet
movies, 1.1, 1.2, 2.1
music, 1.1, 2.1, 2.2, 2.4, 3.1, epl.1
Naret, Jean-Luc
Neat, Richard, 4.1, 5.1, 5.3, 6.1, 7.1, 8.1
See also Pied à Terre
New York City, 4.1, 8.1, 8.2, 9.1, 9.2
September 11 attacks
See also specific chefs and restaurants
New York magazine, 10.1, 10.2, 13.1
New York, New York (restaurant), 1.1, 2.1
New York Times
Atlas review, 10.1, 10.2
Corton review
Gilt review
Papillon review
Nieporent, Drew
Oconitrillo, Arleene, 13.1, 13.2, 13.3, 13.4
Palace Hotel (New York)
See also Gilt
Papillon, 11.1
Paris, 6.1, 7.1, 7.2
See also Pierre Gagnaire (restaurant)
pasta, 2.1, photo
Agnolotti of Cauliflower, Coffee, and Caviar (photograph), photo
Black Olive Gnocchi, photo, photo, bm.1
Spaghetti with Lamb Bolognese, bm.1
White Truffle Gnudi with Abalone Butter, photo, bm.1
Pastis
pastry and desserts, 2.1, 2.2, 7.1, 8.1, 10.1
Beetroot-Blackberry Meringue, photo, bm.1
“The Gold Bar,” xi, photo, bm.1
Green Apple–Wasabi Sorbet, 4.1, photo, 10.2, bm.1
Saffron Vanilla Fudge, Banana Ganache, Matcha, photo, bm.1
signature dishes photographed, photo, photo, photo, photo
Peacock Alley
Pelé
Per Se, 10.1, 12.1
Pied à Terre, 4.1
author’s kitchen experiences, 5.1, 5.3
food, 4.1, 5.1, 5.3, 5.4, 7.1
Pierre Gagnaire (restaurant), 7.1, 8.1
author’s kitchen experiences, 7.1, 7.2, 7.3, 7.4, 7.5
food, 7.1, 7.2, 7.3, 7.4, 7.5, photo, 13.1
pork, photo
Beer-Brined Pork Shoulder, photo, bm.1
Tête de Cochon, photo, bm.1
Portale, Alfred
potatoes, 2.1
“The Bagel,” xi, photo, bm.1
Composition Pommes de Terre, photo, bm.1
Proofer, Jacob, 10.1
Psaltis, Doug, 8.1, 8.2
Ramsay, Gordon, 6.1, 8.1
raves, 2.1
recipes:
“The Bagel,” xi, photo, bm.1
Beer-Brined Pork Shoulder, 12.1, bm.1
Beet-Hibiscus-Glazed Foie Gras, photo, bm.1
Beetroot-Blackberry Meringue, photo, bm.1
Black Olive Gnocchi, 8.1, 8.2,
bm.1
Blowfish with Vadouvan Spice and Burnt Laurel, photo, bm.1
Braised Lamb Neck, photo, bm.1
Brown Chicken Stock
Composition Pommes de Terre, photo, bm.1
Duck Leg Torte, photo, bm.1
Finishing Butter
“The Gold Bar,” xi, 8.1, bm.1
Green Apple–Wasabi Sorbet, 4.1, photo, 10.2, bm.1
Halibut Jamón, photo, bm.1
Plum Extra-Virgin Olive Oil, photo, bm.1
Rabbit-Cuttlefish Rillettes, photo, bm.1
Red Cabbage Gelée, photo, bm.1
Red Curry Jus, photo, bm.1
Red Curry Paste
Red Wine “Cannelloni,” photo, bm.1
Saffron Vanilla Fudge, Banana Ganache, Matcha, photo, bm.1
Scallop “Pasta,” photo, bm.1
Spaghetti with Lamb Bolognese, bm.1
Squid-Lemongrass Velouté, photo, bm.1
Stilton–Green Garlic Crème, photo, bm.1
Tapioca Celery Jus, photo, bm.1
Tête de Cochon, photo, bm.1
White Asparagus, photo, bm.1
White Chicken Stock
White Truffle Gnudi with Abalone Butter, photo, bm.1
“The Restaurant.” See Marco Pierre White (restaurant)
restaurant critics
Atlas reviews, 10.1, 10.2
Corton reviews, 13.1
Papillon review
See also Michelin guides
restaurant life, xvi, 1.1, epl.1
abuse and sabotage in the kitchen, 3.1, 6.1
American kitchens
chef-owner relations, 9.1, 12.1
friendly kitchens
kitchen-front of house tensions
socializing and relationships, 1.1, 2.1, 2.2, 13.1
staffing and management challenges
staff meals, 2.1, 3.1
See also restaurant critics; specific restaurants
restaurant wages, 2.1
Rice, Tom, 9.1, 10.1, 10.2, 12.1
RN74
Robuchon, Joël, 2.1, 2.2, 7.1
Rothko, Mark
Rowe, Sally, 11.1, 12.1
Rubenstein, Hal, 10.1, 10.2
See also New York magazine
salt
Santoro, Michael
sauces:
Plum Extra-Virgin Olive Oil, photo, bm.1
Red Curry Jus, photo, bm.1