Climbing The Equator

by Neville Shulman

  There are finches on most islands and there are several varieties on the same island, with often a minute change in their physiognomy being the difference between one species and another. There are 13 species within the Archipelago and the subtle adaptations evolved were eventually the final proof Darwin needed to convince himself before he could try to convince others. Possibly the finch, which started his brain reeling with the possibility of what it could mean, is the sharp-beaked ground finch (Geospiza difficilis) found only on the northern Darwin (Culpepper) and Wolf (Wenman) Islands. This is the ‘dracula’ or ‘vampire’ of the finches, as it sips the blood of nesting boobies and frigate birds by perching on their backs and with its ‘sharp beak’ puncturing through their wing or tail feathers. They surprisingly don’t seem to mind, and perhaps even view it as a form of bird acupuncture or even bloodletting, which would encourage healthy bird living. They certainly don’t seem to suffer any harm and don’t resist the intrusion. However not content with taking blood, the sharp beaks also steal their eggs when they aren’t looking; that seems a little too sharp!

  The toolers of the finches are the woodpecker finch (Cactospiza pallida) and the mangrove finch (Cactospiza heliobates). They use twigs and cactus spines they have fashioned into their own sharpened tools in order to tap into trees and cacti to extract wood boring insects like grubs and termites. They have an amazing ability rare amongst birds, to use something to provide them with the means of carrying out a required task. There is then the vegetarian finch (Platyspiza crassirostris) which has the largest body of them all and it has a very sharp cutting beak to accomplish its mission. The cactus finch (Geospiza scandens) and the large cactus finch, bigger than the other, (Geospiza conirostris) actually living on different islands, have very long sharp beaks to enable it to pierce the cactus flower and later in the season the cactus fruit, without causing injury to itself. The large-beaked ground finch (Geospiza magnirostris) cracks the hard seeds and nuts that other finches would find impossible, and by contrast the small-beaked ground finch (Geospiza fulginosa) concentrates on the easier grass seeds. There are also the medium-beaked ground species (Geospiza fortis) that goes for the seeds and nuts that aren’t too big and aren’t too small and they consider ‘just right’.

  Sounds rather like some kind of ‘three bear Goldilocks’ complex.

  Guess what the grass-eating warbler finch (Certhidea olivacea) likes. Well not totally, it also has the special trick of eating the ticks off the backs of iguanas and giant tortoises, enjoying the blood content as an added source of protein. It doesn’t tick the igs and torts off though, as the warbler reaches the parts that others can’t and they become quite complicit in the ritual by standing stiff-legged to raise their bodies for inspection and this special dry-cleaning service. There are three sizes of tree finches (in descending order, Camarhynchus psittacula, Camarhynchus pauper and Camarhynchus parvulus) living primarily in the higher areas where trees and tall shrubs grow more easily, whereas the different species of the darker ground finches live in the arid scrubland regions. Thirteen can be an unlucky number for some, but in Darwin’s case it proved to be the opposite and indeed in this special circumstance for most of us. In this case at least, this number thirteen has definitely helped to unlock some of the major mysteries of life.

  Mr and Mrs Finch should also take a bow and surely deserve to be ranked amongst the upper echelons of the bird world, for the integral part they have played in Darwin’s theory of natural selection. Rightfully they have jumped up the bird queue and rather than being ‘commoners’ they are now truly ‘blue bloods’.

  APPENDIX 2

  EL NIÑO

  In recent years there have been constant references to the awesome power of El Niño and the tragedies it continues to cause, and the Galapagos Islands and the mainland of Ecuador have also suffered considerably from its terrible forces. It occurs because of a drastic change in weather patterns, which in turn have a dramatic effect on tides and winds and will invariably create havoc and devastation on those areas, both inland and offshore, that are affected. Inland, villages, roads, trees, animals and people can be badly harmed and even destroyed and offshore ships, small boats, coral reefs, sea creatures and people can also suffer similarly.

  El Niño translates as ‘the Christ Child’ or ‘the Young Boy’, and the name originates because that’s what the fishermen of Peru called the arrival of the warmer waters that would arrive in from the ocean around Christmas time. At that time it was primarily welcomed, which is why the effect was given such a benign and religious name at the outset, but now it has come to signify an onslaught of unpredictable weather conditions which can bring death and misery to thousands, if not millions, of people. There are records of these changes and ‘storms’ occurring as far back as the sixteenth century but only recently has this weather phenomenon been identified and documented.

  The name of El Niño all over the world has now taken on a much darker and frightening aspect. Previously an El Niño occurred rarely, perhaps every few years, but now it occurs more frequently and seemingly with increasing ferocity. There is also a domino effect from an El Niño occurring in one area, as it causes equivalent effects in other areas, which compound the general destructions taking place. The basis of the force unleashed is related to the balance in atmospheric pressures between the Eastern Equatorial Pacific and the Indo-Australian regions, with one set of pressures rising as the other set falls and vice versa. Previously it seemed to be reasonably well balanced so there were few occasions when the weather conditions were ‘abnormal’. It is known as the Southern Oscillation and was an acceptable part of the weather patterns of the world. Now it seems that this gentler seesaw effect that used to occur is more like a pendulum gathering increasing speed with massive changes inevitably taking place. When the trade winds fall the layers of warm waters of the West Pacific are pushed back across the ocean thereby warming the East Pacific and cooling the West Pacific. This generally allows air temperatures to even out across the whole Pacific and the trade winds lessen. If however this is occurring at this ‘abnormal’ rate of change, the effects are more profound and extreme and as the warmer waters continue to spread across the Eastern Pacific the Western Pacific waters become even colder and the rainfall intensifies and lashes the South American coastlines.

  The reverse is then also happening elsewhere as little rainfall is occurring in other places. This warmer water effect pushes the cold Humboldt Current deeper which then starts to kill off huge numbers of fish and this reduces the food supplies for birds and mammals, many of which will die as a consequence. There is then a traumatic chain reaction throughout the regions affected and this will cause considerable damage to the marine infrastructure as well as resulting in loss of life for all creatures. If the Southern Oscillation happens in a more violent way than usual there is a knock on effect to all of the world’s weather systems, often with far ranging results. It is argued with some validity that the increasing effect of El Niño and therefore also a more pronounced Southern Oscillation, is a direct result of the global warming generally agreed to be taking place. The greenhouse effect is actually shown nowhere to be more potent than in the colossal destruction occurring within the rainforest. Nature’s ‘greenery’ is being replaced by huge open spaces created for cattle grazing, oil drillings and farming, whether for animals, fruit, vegetables or shrimps! The failure of ‘civilised’ society to limit and reduce the emissions of greenhouse gases is nothing short of a calamity and we, whether our skins are white, yellow, brown or black, may well be known as ‘the savages’ by future generations if they are allowed to be the future generations.

  The Galapagos Archipelago is obviously very exposed within the Pacific Ocean and the islands have suffered from a vicious El Niño on a number of occasions. The worst in living memory was undoubtedly the one taking place in 1982/1983, when over 3,400 millimetres of rainfall occurred and many islands were flooded.

  This compares with a usual annual rainfall
of less than 400 millimetres. The sea water rose by approximately ten degrees as a consequence, which in turn reduced the nutrients available to the fish. They consequently moved further offshore, thereby limiting the fish stock available to the birds. The flightless cormorants were particularly badly hit as a result, their numbers decreasing to half, and the penguins totally dependent on catching fish in shallow waters decreased by three-quarters. The marine iguanas also decreased by half as vast numbers starved because the oxygen-depleted and nutrient-deficient waters couldn’t provide the algae which they relied on. The sea lions also suffered tremendously, with the sea cows abandoning their pups as they were forced to search further afield in order to try and find food. Many bulls also died as they lost their strength and then tried unsuccessfully to achieve dominance as before over a herd on the beach. It wasn’t totally bad news however, as the vegetation and plants grew in greater abundance and this encouraged the appetites of the insect kingdom which seemed to expand enormously, although it proved too difficult to organise a census. The tortoises and those birds, such as mockingbirds and the Darwin finches, normally eating green leaves also did rather well, as there were extra rations for all. However this growth of plants and vegetation also resulted in the nests of the waved albatross becoming covered up, so no new chicks could be hatched and its population seriously declined the next season. The marine iguana also suffered considerably when their sea weed diet was vastly reduced as it was decimated by the algae created.

  The El Niño of 1997/1998 was also very serious but this time was equally devastating, if not more so, to the mainland. In the Galapagos the rainfall again hit the 3,400 millimetres levels with the marine iguana numbers again suffering badly and reducing to half, similarly the number of sea lions dropped drastically away. Penguin numbers were again devastated and again reduced by three-quarters. There was however a very disturbing effect of this particular El Niño, as many new insects, especially ants, were carried in on the powerful winds to the islands. Fire ants attacked the nests of some of the giant tortoises, breaking into their eggs and preventing the babies from hatching. If the number of new introduced insect species continues in this way it can seriously affect the existing order of creatures throughout the Archipelago and upset the balance which has taken centuries to achieve. It’s not right to argue an El Niño is just a force of nature and whatever will be, will be, if its force is totally exacerbated by the actions of human beings.

  On the mainland there were tremendous floods and landslides, killing over 200 people, many of them children and many thousands of families were made homeless. Bridges and roads were washed away to cause absolute chaos over many months and the damaged infrastructure still has to be repaired in many cases. Disease of course was widespread through the infected waters entering reservoirs and water systems as well as lakes and rivers, thereby affecting fish stock. In fact many parts of the world were similarly affected, which only goes to emphasise how dependent we all are on one another and the actions of others, sometimes only a relative few, can affect so many more. We should have warnings stamped across things, not only on cigarette packets, something to the effect that, ‘Your Actions Can Destroy Future Lives.’

  APPENDIX 3

  PROTECTING

  THE FUTURE

  Ecuador has an enlightened policy (mostly) to protect its wonderful treasure house of fauna and flora and has designated more than 17 per cent of its small country as protected National Parks, Reserves and Special Areas, covering over 46,000 square kilometres (nearly 18,000 square miles). Included within many Parks and Reserves are most of the high mountains, so they can be also kept under appropriate protection. They also provide tremendous trekking opportunities in wild and not so wild countryside; it’s always great fun and certainly eye-opening to see a number of extraordinary creatures roaming freely in the forests and across the grasslands. That’s probably from the animal’s perspective as well. There are 10 main National Parks and 14 Nature Reserves and several other important areas, covering overall an immense area of nearly 5 million hectares of land and over 14 million hectares of water and the most important include the following:

  Cotopaxi National Park is 60 kilometre (44 miles) to the south of Quito and covers over 34,000 hectares (84,000 acres). It’s split between the Cotopaxi, Pichincha and Napo Provinces. This is the mainland’s most exquisite Park and is full of wonderful flora and fauna, including pumas, wolves, condors, wild horses, llamas and deer (usually trying to avoid becoming puma dinner). There are also dwarf deer and marsupial mice. Within it of course is the world renowned Cotopaxi Mountain, 5,897 metres (19,347 feet), the highest active snow-capped volcano in the world. It’s accepted to be the most beautiful of all Ecuador’s mountains. The Park also contains the Limpiopungo Lagoon where it’s possible to see many kinds of birds including waterfowl, as well as the jet black toad with its orange underbelly. The lagoon is very near Carachaloma Mountain (4,068 metres) and not too far from the Rumiñahui Volcano, whose main Central Peak is 4,712 metres (15,492 feet), combining with the slightly lesser North and South Peaks. The mountain of Morurco (4,850 metres) is also here, just south of Cotopaxi and several others including Chiguilasin Chico, a rather enjoyable and non taxing climb. There are some important and interesting Inca ruins at Pucara. Also at the foot of Cotapaxi Mountain is the Inca palace built by TupacYupanquil in the fifteenth century, which was turned into a monastery two centuries later by the Augustine Catholic Order.

  Sangay National Park is 280 kilometres (174 miles) from Quito and covers nearly 500,000 hectares (1,235,000 acres) and is in three provinces, Tungurahua, Chimborazo and Morona Santiago. It is accessed from the Pan-American Highway at Riobamba. The northern area is a World Heritage Site. It has extensive flora and fauna and is named after its highest mountain, the Sangay Mountain 5,230 metres (17,154 feet), an existing active and often nonclimbable volcano. Also included in the Park are two other powerful volcanic mountains, Altar 5,320 metres (17,446 feet) and Tungurahua 5,029 metres (16,452 feet). Animals include the endangered mountain tapir, the spectacled bear and the ocelot. There is also the giant otter, the jaguar, the gazelle, the condor and the largest hummingbird in the world. The rivers are stocked with fish and there are many types of amphibians. The Quichua-Canelos indigenous Indians live in the north and the Shuar indigenous Indians in the south.

  Yasuni National Park is also one of the largest parks with over 545,000 hectares (1,350,000 acres) and is 305 kilometres (190 miles) from Quito, sited in the Napo Province. Its biosphere reserve has the largest bio-diversity in Ecuador with some endemic plants which have continued growing there since the Pleistocene Period (around 20,000 BC). Over 700 species of vegetation, 500 bird species and 200 different animal species have been identified. The indigenous Indian tribe, the Huaoranis are known to live within the Napo River embankments, but you will not find them too easily and be careful they don’t find you first. They have a number of well-founded grievances and sometimes want to share their grief. The Tiputini, Cononaco, Nashino and Yasuni River basins are also part of their secluded habitats and they are always ready to move on to avoid intrusions. Some of the wonderful creatures to be experienced (at a distance) include jaguars, harpy eagles, king buzzards and crocodiles. Also piranhas, catfish and very colourful and ornamental fish can be found in great quantities.

  Cajas National Recreation Park is 520 kilometres (323 miles) away from Quito but only 37 kilometres (23 miles) from Cuenca and its area covers over 29,000 hectares (71,000 acres) It has over 230 lakes of glacial origin, connected to each other by streams or small rivers. Two rivers around Cuenca commence here, the Tomebamba and the Yanuncay. Here there are spectacled bears, pumas, the Andean tapir, the white-tailed deer and the páramos deer and countless rabbits. The bird species include the grey-breasted Andean toucan, the spectacled duck, the snipe, the condor and the caracara. The Incan site in the area of Molleturo is believed to be a resting place (known as a tambo) used by the Inca messengers running from Cuzco in Peru to Qu
ito (or Quitu as it then was known).

  Llangantes National Park is one of the most inaccessible and hostile landscapes in the whole of Ecuador and has numerous lagoons, waterfalls, large valleys and wild moorlands, with dense and tall vegetation stretching everywhere. It’s great machete country but don’t swing it too wildly and keep control at all times, as it can prove to be a very dangerous weapon if used incorrectly. As jazz music maestro Louis Armstrong always said, ‘It don’t mean a thing if you don’t have the swing.’ A compass is also essential as are long rubber boots, as your trekking boots will quickly accumulate too much mud and you’ll soon feel as if you’re dragging heavy weights around with you. It’s actually easy to get really bogged down, literally, as there are many bogs, which will suck you in and welcome you with open legs. You will come across the dwarf quinus trees and there are all kinds of mosses and lichens, mushrooms and fungi to be found everywhere. An abundance of moorland rabbits should provide great opportunities for sightings, weather permitting and there are also the jungle (sacha) rabbits and weasels. Although not very common you may come across the spectacled bear, the puma, the moorland fox, the tapir, the condor and the moorland and white-tailed deer. The highest mountain in this area is Cerro Hermoso 4,571 metres (15,618 feet), which for the reasons explained is very infrequently climbed. To actually spell it out, it’s because you will sink frequently into black, squelching, stinking mud, trekking on your way to reach Hermoso. If you’re lucky the weather will occasionally clear and Hermoso will live up to its name, which surprisingly translates as ‘Beautiful Mountain.’ There is a relatively unknown mountain range called Sacha Llanganates, it’s not been officially measured and little is actually known about it and the surrounding area. If you want to explore uncharted territory, then this is definitely the place and there are all kinds of flora to discover and possibly name after yourself, your loved ones or even your favourite schoolmaster.