Zak George's Guide to a Well-Behaved Dog

by Zak George

  So, what should you do? First, see previous chapters that described how to teach your dog to avoid jumping, begging, and so on. Also, remember that it’s essential to make sure you regularly exercise your dog before teaching her basic impulse control and manners.

  Most importantly, your dog needs an acceptable outlet that satisfies her desire to expend all of that incredible energy! While you may not need to give her a job, like hunting or herding, you do need to provide alternative activities. However, you’ve got to choose wisely. Dogs, especially hyper dogs, won’t adequately exercise themselves even when they have a massive yard to run around in. And while playing with other dogs is nice and there are tons of reasons to encourage this, it isn’t likely to mentally satisfy a dog enough to dramatically reduce hyperactivity.

  Your best bet is an activity that involves a lot of interaction from you, like fetch. It can take several weeks to a few months to teach a proper game of fetch, so in the meantime (and as a supplement to your dog’s regular exercise regimen), you can take her for long walks and go for hikes. Also, consider getting involved with fun dog sports such as Frisbee, dock diving, agility, and flyball. However, I’ll reiterate that playing fetch is the most efficient way to get your dog to chill out and be content as can be.

  I meet a fair amount of resistance from everyday people on this point from, time to time. For example, I commonly hear statements like, “I tried teaching my dog fetch, but she doesn’t bring the toy back,” “She won’t let go of the toy,” or “She gets distracted too easily and loses interest.” What many people fail to realize is that teaching a reliable game of fetch to a dog takes weeks, even months sometimes. It is a project. However, it’s some of the most valuable time you can spend on training high-energy dogs like this. Imagine being able to get all of that excess energy out of your dog on your terms and schedule quickly and efficiently. In other words, fetch is the way to convert a crazy, hyper dog to the most well-behaved dog on Earth.

  Fetch

  I cover fetch in depth on YouTube—there are tons of videos to choose from, such as Everything You Need to Know to Teach Your Dog a Perfect Fetch!—but here’s a step-by-step guide to help you along:

  1. Fetch is when your dog chases a toy, instantly picks it up, returns promptly in a straight line to you, instantly lets go of the toy, and eagerly awaits the next throw. Start by teaching a solid game of tug (including “let go”), which I fully detail on this page, chapter 7. In these early stages, use a toy that you can easily play tug with, like a Frisbee or tug toy. Try a variety of toys to see what your dog likes. No matter what you choose, make that toy very exciting and intriguing by moving it around like a wiggly snake on the ground or by playing with the toy yourself. You want to help make your dog think, “Wow! This is the coolest object ever!”

  2. Keep your dog on a long fifteen- to twenty-foot lead, even if your yard or the area where you are training is fenced. You must be able to gently guide your dog back to you very consistently and prevent your dog from running around erratically. And since “keep-away” is a thrilling natural game for most dogs—you know, when your dog has an object and starts running away from you so that you have no choice but to chase her—having your dog on a long lead like this eliminates that problematic, almost certain aspect of teaching fetch.

  3. When teaching fetch early on, focus on the mechanics of the game, not on actually exercising your dog. Once your dog has mastered the concept of “tug vigorously and let go instantly,” it’s time to start tossing the toy short distances. Toss it a foot or two and, after your dog gets it, encourage her to come back by being extra-animated and excited. I’m not kidding: keep these initial throws very short! Your goal is for your dog to master fetch, so keep things easy for your dog at this point.

  4. When your dog returns to you, genuinely and enthusiastically offer encouragement and praise. Reward her with a brief game of tug. Say something like, “Yes, good dog! You are amazing!” Do not insist on an immediate drop when your dog comes back to you at this point. It’s more important to keep your dog enthused about the game. Instead, give her a thirty-second game of tug as if to say to her, “You brought it back! Let’s have fun for a second!” Remember that tug is a very powerful currency for dogs who like this game! Use it to your advantage often. That’s why I encourage people to use playtime and not food as the currency when teaching fetch. Dogs don’t usually play anywhere near as vigorously when they are in “food mode,” and it’s important that they are amped up and very excited to play when you’re teaching fetch in these early stages. The reason you only throw the toy a foot or two here is that if your dog does not bring the toy back, you are close enough that you can still promptly start playing tug with her to keep the “fire” going and to keep her from losing interest. So think about it: if you drop the toy a foot away and you instantly start playing tug with her just after she picks it up, she begins to equate, “I pick up the toy and a tug happens a moment later!” That means you’re on the right track!

  5. Continue focusing on short reps that involve your tossing the toy a few feet and then getting your dog to pick it up, come back to you in a straight line, and let go when asked (while occasionally playing some extended tug to keep things exciting). Repeat this often and then, after you’ve been successful for many reps, gradually extend the distance that you throw the toy.

  6. Keep in mind that while dogs sure do have stamina, fetch is a sprinting activity. If your dog seems to lose interest, there’s a good chance she just needs a break for five minutes. So, give your dog breaks frequently. For example, say you’re teaching fetch over a period of forty-five minutes. You might play two minutes of fetch and then follow that with a two-minute break. Or you might play five minutes and then have a five-minute break. This varies from dog to dog, but remember that even if you’re training for forty-five minutes, your dog should only be running for about fifteen to twenty minutes total.

  7. While your dog is learning fetch, significant walks should also be part of your exercise schedule if you want to help minimize hyperactivity. For example, do your fetch training early in the day. Once you’re done, take a thirty-minute walk or so (more with some dogs, less with others). You should notice immediate improvement of your dog’s behavior.

  CHAPTER 18

  AGGRESSION

  The word aggression is a rather loaded term in the dog training world. It can mean different things to different people. As I mentioned in my first book, I define aggression as follows: “When a dog deliberately growls, bites, snaps, or acts in a way meant to ensure his own perceived safety or the safety of someone or something that he values.”

  Often, the general public uses the term aggressive very liberally. For example, when a dog barks enthusiastically at another dog on a walk or jumps on people without regard, he is often described as aggressive by the average person. Also, some dogs might have altercations with other dogs at some point in their lives. Those dogs, too, might be labeled aggressive. What’s wrong with that? First, all dogs who exhibit aggressive behaviors are not the same. Some might simply air snap to make their point while others might attempt to actually bite another dog or human. What’s more, labeling a dog as aggressive is dangerous. These are often the dogs who needlessly wind up in shelters because their families don’t know how to handle them1—and many of these dogs are then, in turn, euthanized.2 Remember, dogs themselves are not aggressive. Their behaviors sometimes are.

  All dogs can show aggressive behaviors like growling, snapping, teeth baring, or even biting if provoked. For instance, my coauthor’s dog, Brody, is the sweetest, most affectionate pet she’s ever had. But if you try to grab his favorite bone out of his mouth, he growls and might even snap at the air. Does that make him a violent, dangerous dog? No! It’s just his way of saying, “Hey, this is my toy. Don’t touch it.” I’m not saying this behavior is ideal, but it’s a far cry from a dog who seems to always be ready for a fight. Just as young c
hildren might easily lose their tempers, so too do dogs. And just as strong parents can teach their kids how to behave properly in certain situations, so too can dogs learn to behave in a more socially acceptable way.

  What about those dogs who exhibit aggressive behaviors more often than not? First, know that these dogs are not the norm. Honestly, if a dog seems to “see red” all the time, he shouldn’t be around the general public. Dogs like this should be in a special home or facility that can handle such specific behaviors. However, it’s very rare that a dog has generalized aggressive behavior. Instead, it’s usually a specific context that’s the trigger.

  In this chapter, I’ll address the most common aggressive behaviors and how to start dealing with them. However, it’s important to note that I can only address such issues on a very broad level. I would never and could never offer advice that applies across the board—aggressive behavior needs to be handled on a case-by-case basis. When it comes to repetitive or very serious aggressive behaviors, you need to work with your vet and possibly a positive trainer or animal behaviorist in your area who can help your specific dog. That being said, here’s an overview of aggression.

  WHY DO DOGS BEHAVE AGGRESSIVELY?

  Dogs behave aggressively for a variety of reasons. Here’s a breakdown:

  1. Aggressive behavior usually stems from a dog being afraid and/or not receiving enough regular exercise. In the case of fear, a dog may genuinely feel threatened and act out in the interest of self-preservation or as a way to protect something that he values. For instance, he might bite or snap to physically neutralize the perceived threat. In the case of a lack of exercise, when dogs have pent-up energy and don’t have an outlet to release it, they might get frustrated and be on edge—especially those higher-energy dogs. Their energy has to go somewhere! While some dogs might display hyperactive behavior as a way of releasing this energy, others release it by having aggressive outbursts. The good news is that exercise is likely to dramatically reduce the majority of such outbursts.

  2. If a dog is in pain or has a medical condition, that might cause him to lash out. For instance, if a dog’s paw hurts, he might nip at anyone who tries to touch it. One study in the Journal of Veterinary Behavior found that unexplained aggression in dogs was due to undiagnosed medical conditions such as hip dysplasia.3 Also, in rare instances, some dogs may have a mental condition that causes them to behave aggressively or at least in a less predictable manner.

  3. Genetics also plays a role when it comes to aggression. A dog’s genes may predispose him to being fearful or overprotective or more inclined to develop certain mental illnesses. For instance, a study in Frontiers in Psychology found that two hormones significantly affected whether or not a dog behaved aggressively.4 Service dogs, who are bred for their calm temperament, had higher levels of oxytocin (the feel-good hormone) than the average dog. Meanwhile, dogs who showed aggressive behaviors toward other dogs had more of the hormone vasopressin.

  4. A lack of socialization and previous bad experiences can lead a dog to exhibit aggressive behaviors. If a dog has been abused in the past, he might snarl or even bite humans or other animals he doesn’t know and/or trust. Sadly, who can blame him for just trying to protect himself?

  5. A dog might react in a certain way simply because such behavior has worked for him in the past. For instance, if a dog guards his food bowl, he’s likely doing so because he values his food and growling has kept others from taking it on previous occasions. When he growls, you might be less likely to take the food away, right? Therefore, your dog may conclude that protecting the food kept it in his possession, so he might as well continue this behavior in the future. See, aggressive behavior, like all behaviors, occurs due to a combination of life experiences, genetics, and the context in which it takes place.

  6. It’s equally important to address what doesn’t cause aggressive behavior: breed! I can’t tell you how much this myth bothers me. So many dog breeds, such as Pit Bulls, Rottweilers, German Shepherds, Doberman Pinschers, and Akitas, have been stereotyped as aggressive, violent dogs. This myth is so pervasive that there is actually breed-specific legislation (BSL) across the world that bans or restricts certain breeds from communities. However, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, the Humane Society of the United States, the American Veterinary Medical Association, the American Bar Association, and countless other reputable organizations have come out against such legislation.5 The reason? Study after study has shown that such laws have absolutely no basis in science. For instance, a study in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association found that breed is not a factor in dog-bite–related fatalities.6 Also, multiple studies point out that some dogs are taught to be violent.7 However, that has nothing to do with breed. That’s all about the person raising the dog. So, while genetics may have a role in the personality of individual dogs of any breed, there is absolutely no hard science supporting the idea that genetics associated with aggressive behavior is widespread within specific breeds.

  WHAT TO DO ABOUT AGGRESSIVE BEHAVIORS

  It’s critical to understand that aggression is the most serious issue when it comes to dog behavior. Never hesitate to seek the help of a professional positive trainer or a certified veterinary behaviorist in your area.

  Remember, the first step in stopping behaviors we don’t like is to keep them from occurring whenever possible. Of course, this is most important when it comes to something as potentially dangerous as aggressive behaviors. The good news is that most dogs don’t just start attacking another dog or person out of the blue. When they are about to bite, they’ll give you some clues that’s about to happen. If you ever notice your dog displaying any of these behaviors, immediately remove him from the person, animal, or situation that’s making him uncomfortable.

  SIGNS OF AGGRESSIVE BEHAVIOR

  Below are some signs your dog might display aggressive behavior.8 (Also, check out the common signs that a dog is fearful, which I addressed on this page, chapter 15, since aggressive behavior is often due to the fact that a dog is afraid.)

  • Becoming very still and rigid

  • Low, guttural bark

  • Showing teeth

  • Mouthing

  • Whites of eyes exposed (known as whale eye)

  • Wrinkled muzzle

  • Turning head away

  • Lips pulled back

  If your dog starts acting aggressively, first take him to a vet to rule out any medical issues. This is more common than you might realize and, as I mentioned earlier, is the most probable explanation if your dog’s aggressive behavior suddenly appears out of nowhere. Of course, if you think your dog is fearful, see chapter 15 on handling fear as this is likely where you need to focus your training efforts. And if your dog is overly energetic, be sure to provide him with regular exercise!

  Traditionally, many dog training professionals handle dogs’ aggressive tendencies by being equally aggressive. They practice dominance-based training: They yell at their dogs and hit them. They put them in alpha rolls by pinning them down on their backs. They use choke chains, prong collars, and electric shock collars in an attempt to teach them right from wrong. The logic: If your dog knows he will suffer as a result of aggressive behavior, then he is less likely to behave this way. The trouble is that this isn’t how it works at all. In fact, the exact opposite is true: a survey in Applied Animal Behaviour Science found that when people used confrontational methods to punish their dogs, the dogs exhibited even more aggressive behaviors.9 As Meghan Herron, DVM, DACVB, lead author of the study and director of the Behavioral Medicine Clinic at the Ohio State University College of Veterinary Medicine, explained so eloquently, “In almost all cases, dogs are aggressive because they are afraid and feel threatened in some way. When you use confrontational methods, you are just making yourself more threatening and increasing your dog’s motivation to use aggression a
gainst you. It’s like fighting fire with fire.”10

  Yes, some people who use these methods might argue that their dogs do decrease their aggressive behaviors. So what about those cases? That goes back to the learned helplessness explained on this page, chapter 1. “Sometimes people can scare their dogs enough that the animals achieve a state of learned helplessness—they just sit and take it,” Dr. Herron said. “Some of these dogs eventually lose this inhibition, and their aggression comes back much worse than before, as though they’ve snapped. And for those who don’t, they remain shut down and often live in a state of perpetual fear.”11

  As if that’s not bad enough, addressing aggressive outbursts after they occur is very counterproductive. First, it indicates a breakdown in management, which is a key to reducing all aggressive behaviors (which I cover throughout this chapter). Also, it’s not teaching a dog anything.

  So, what does work? You’ve got to show your dog what to do instead of having an aggressive outburst. Here’s a general breakdown of the four major steps:

  1. Figure out the cause. When dealing with aggressive behaviors in general, you have to first do your best to determine what causes those actions and when. In other words, try to understand which events or triggers are likely to cause your dog to behave aggressively. For instance, if you know that your dog is prone to snap at another dog because he’s guarding a bone, then you know that you have a severe resource guarder and you can address this specific issue. Or if you know that your dog is very uneasy around people who don’t follow basic etiquette when engaging a dog—which is often the case with children who might quickly rush over to dogs to hug and pet them—you can center your training efforts around these situations.