The Cave

by Liam Cochrane

  The lower entrance to the cave was now guarded by police. Behind them, a brand-new wire fence reached almost three metres into the air. Attached to the barbed wire was a sign that said ‘DANGER’ in English, and in Thai, ‘Beware of high-voltage electricity.’ CCTV cameras had also been installed.

  The angry princess had been ringed by a modern protective shield. Tham Luang would be closed until January, well after the end of the rainy season.

  Behind the tall green fence and the security cameras, the cave remained off-limits. It wasn’t just because the authorities wanted to avoid anyone else getting trapped. When the pump broke in Chamber 3 and the monsoon rains sealed the cave, hundreds of thousands of dollars’ worth of equipment was left inside. Scuba tanks and regulators, water pumps, generators; all sorts of gear had been lost to the waters. While much of it would be irreparably damaged, some of it might be recoverable when the rainy season ended.

  * * *

  It’s hard to say exactly what it was that brought the raging floodwaters inside Tham Luang under control.

  The man who knows the cave so well, Vern Unsworth, believes the pumping did little except to clear the way to Chamber 3. He thinks the diverting of the creeks on top of the mountain probably helped most. He says it’s a shame the pond at Khun Nam Nang Non was dug up and destroyed so the water from Saitong Cave had somewhere to flow. The Thai government plans to rehabilitate the area within months.

  Thanet agrees the groundwater pumping probably only had a ‘small significance’ to the outcome, but these judgements are easy in hindsight. At the time, with lives on the line and so many uncertainties, everything was worth a try. Like Vern, he thinks stopping the flow of the creeks was probably more crucial to lowering the water level inside Tham Luang.

  That said, the pumping was impressive. Thanet has calculated a rough estimate of the amount of water that was removed, using the capacity of the pumps and the time they ran for. About 384,000 cubic metres was drained from inside Tham Luang (from the sumps between the entrance and Chamber 3) and a further 56,000 cubic metres was pumped out of the groundwater at the front of the cave. Over at Saitong Cave, about 150,000 cubic metres came out of the cave, while a staggering 2,073,000 cubic metres was drained from the aquifer below. All up, that’s more than 1000 Olympic swimming pools.

  The owners of the ‘dragon pumps’ were cheered as heroes as they drove their rigs out of town after the rescues, people spontaneously lining the street to see the eighteen-metre-long contraptions go by.

  If they’d kept the pumps working in the shrimp ponds, each one could have been earning A$40 an hour, but they had forsaken that income to be part of something greater.

  ‘Our hearts drew us here. Twenty of us leave today. I’m happy that they [the Wild Boars] are safe . . . I’m proud we helped the kids,’ said Thawatchai Fuengkachorn, leader of the team.

  * * *

  The baby wild boar trotted around, ferretted amongst the leaves with its snout and trotted on. His name was Bon – in Thai, the word for soccer is pronounced footbon. Bon had been brought to the cave as a symbolic offering during the rescue and had since become something of a mascot for Tham Luang.

  He was fed by construction workers, who were laying the foundations for a museum, located about where we had squelched around in the press tent a few weeks earlier. The museum would be paid for by national artist and Chiang Rai resident Chalermchai Kositpipat. A large statue of Saman Gunan would stand out the front, and the museum would showcase the unity and daring that helped pull off the rescue.

  For some locals, all the news coverage about the science of the rescue did little to dull their interpretations of events. For 79-year-old former village chief and keeper of local legends, Grandfather Boonma Kabjainai, there was a spiritual explanation for the whole affair. He believed the princess who haunted the mountain had trapped the boys in order to lure in soldiers.

  ‘She doesn’t want normal people, she only wants soldiers,’ said Grandfather Boonma.

  The tragic death of Saman Gunan fitted neatly into his story – a former soldier’s life paid as a penance for the princess, revenge for the soldiers who had killed her lover.

  ‘I think there will be no more [disappearances],’ he said. ‘She got her soldier already.’

  But despite the dark tale, Grandfather Boonma thought there was hope for the vengeful spirit. With all the rituals and prayers offered up by the boys, their parents, local officials, monks and shamans, he thought maybe – just maybe – the ghost of the angry princess might be sated, ready to leave the restless spirit world and be reincarnated.

  ‘Perhaps Nang Non is ready to be reborn, as a human.’

  Epilogue

  IN THE DAYS AND weeks that followed their rescue, life was a bit strange for the Wild Boars. It took some time to realise just what a global phenomenon they’d become while sitting on that muddy ledge. Life outside was complicated. Their families were pulled this way and that by the government, by media, by movie producers, by money and by their own efforts to deal with their newfound fame.

  They were dutiful boys and went along with the rituals and ceremonies and endless photos with good grace. They thanked their rescuers over and over for saving them, and the world for sending hope and love. They pledged to be good citizens and make the most of the lives they so nearly lost.

  Slowly, some sense of normality began to return. At school, the boys faced the unglamorous reality of catching up with the curriculum. Until they were back on track with their school work, there would be no soccer. Those were the rules set by their parents.

  After school, they were almost always together. Inside the cave, they’d made a pact to support each other and that transferred to the outside world. Many afternoons were spent riding or running up the hill together to the temple to see Coach Ek. Lots of people came to see Coach Ek, wanting to get blessed by this celebrity monk. When the boys were ordained as novices, it was the same for them. Many people donated money to them. They pooled the cash and bought a bike for Adul, the one member of their tight-knit group who didn’t have one. It was an act of generosity and mateship that said much about these boys.

  They were average kids who’d had an extraordinary misadventure. Their lives were no more special than any others, but for a few weeks they had become the most worried-over boys in the world, and their survival became an international priority.

  And they had survived. Against all odds, they had defied the fears of even their rescuers and somehow made it out alive. By doing so, they had brought the most profound feelings of relief and happiness to millions of people who’d never met them. Their journey into the darkness, so close to death, had managed to unite a divided world, just for a moment.

  Now they would have to try to get on with their lives. They were still the same good kids they were when they stepped into the cave, but their ordeal had opened their minds and hearts and opportunities.

  They were young, full of talent, full of dreams.

  There would be more adventures.

  Endnotes

  All information and quotes are from the participants or observed by the author, unless otherwise indicated. Interviews include:

  Adisak Wongsukchan (Sak), 2018, Mae Sai

  Airman First Class Haley Moulton, 7 September 2018, Bangkok

  Apichat Wongngoen (Tum), 24 August 2018, Mae Sai

  Ben Reymenants, 7 September 2018, Bangkok

  Boonma Kabjainai, 26 August 2018, Wat Ban Chong village, Chiang Rai

  Ekkarat Wongsukchan (Biw), 2018, Mae Sai

  Erik Brown, 7 September 2018, Bangkok

  Ivan Karadzic, 3 July 2018, Koh Tao

  John Volanthen, October 2018, phone interviews, Bangkok to UK

  Josh Morris, 8 October 2018, Bangkok to Chiang Mai

  Kamol Kunngamkwamdee (Lak), 25 August 2018, Mae Sai

  Li Shuo, 20 August 2018, phone interview, Bangkok to Beijing

  Narinthorn Na Bangchang (Ae), 13 August 2018

  Nattanuch Prasert
ong, 29 August 2018, Chiang Dao

  Nopparat Kanthawong, 15 July 2018, Mae Sai

  Pichamon Changkwanyuen (Chang), 13 August 2018, Bangkok

  Rawheen Joanglao, 29 August 2018, phone interview, Bangkok to Koh Libong (Libong Island)

  Rear Admiral Arpakorn Yuukongkaew, 5 September 2018, Sattahip Naval Base, Thailand

  Ruengrit Changkwanyuen (Pae), 12 August 2018, Bangkok

  Sasivimon Yuukongkaew, 5 August 2018, Sattahip Naval Base

  Somsak Kanakham, Mae Sai District Chief, 27 August 2018, Pha Hee village, Mae Sai

  Suttisak Soralump, 16 August 2018, Bangkok

  Thanet Natisri, 8 August & 14 September 2018, phone interview, Bangkok to US

  Vernon Unsworth, 7 September 2018, Bangkok

  Woranan Ratrawiphakku (Tik), 24 August 2018, Chiang Rai

  Zhang Guangrui, 20 August 2018, phone interview, Bangkok to Beijing

  1 A Ride and an Idea

  ‘. . . an event to promote Chiang Rai as a bicycle-friendly province . . .’: ‘More than 1,600 cyclists attend spin to Doi Tung Phra That to help promote Chiang Rai as a bicycle friendly province’, Chiang Rai Times, 10 June 2018.

  ‘According to Thailand’s tourism . . .’: https://www.tourismthailand.org/Attraction/Phra-That-Doi-Tung--4406 (accessed 23 August 2018).

  ‘. . . the holy scripts say Siddharth Gautama was cremated . . .’: The Pali language Mahaāparinibbaāna Sutta describes the funeral rites and cremation http://www.palicanon.org/en/sutta-pitaka/transcribed-suttas/majjhima-nikaya/131-mn-5-anangaa-sutta-without-blemishes.html.

  ‘Some of the children suggested . . .’: Sending the Wild Boars Home press conference, 18 July 2018, translation Boontin Posayanukul (Tin).

  2 The Wild Boars

  ‘Kamol Chanthapoon was raised by . . .’: Matt Blomberg, ‘There’s a reason that the soccer team rescued from a cave in Thailand was so tough and resilient’, Los Angeles Times, 11 July 2018, http://www.latimes.com/world/la-fg-thai-soccer-team-20180711-story.html.

  3 The Sleeping Lady

  ‘If you ask locals . . .’: This account of the Nang Non story is taken from a short essay written for this book by Boonma Kabjainai (former village chief), 26 August 2018, Wat Ban Chong village, Chiang Rai.

  4 Entering the darkness

  ‘. . . grilled pork skewers with sticky rice . . .’: Wild Boars and family members with additional information from Boontin Posayanukul (Tin), who translated for interview by ABC journalist Anne Barker with the kiosk owner.

  ‘. . . they ate the lot . . .’: Coach Ek, Sending the Wild Boars Home press conference, op cit.

  5 Trapped

  Descriptions of the cave taken from Martin Ellis, The Caves of Thailand (Volume 2: The Caves of Northern Thailand), published by Martin Ellis, 2017; Vernon Unsworth; and the boys.

  6 The search begins

  ‘Tham Lak could be accessed . . .’: Martin Ellis, The Caves of Thailand (Volume 2: The Caves of Northern Thailand), ibid.

  7 SEALs don’t live in caves

  ‘The personal secretary of King Vajiralongkorn . . .’: Chinnapat Chaimon, ‘Hunt goes on for kids in flooded cave’, Bangkok Post, 26 June 2018, p 1.

  ‘. . . the first team of the Naval Special Warfare Command . . .’: author interview, Rear Admiral Arpakorn Yuukongkaew.

  ‘The main obstruction ..’ Martin Ellis, ‘A summary of the Tham Luang rescue’: 7 September 2018, https://www.thailandcaves.shepton.org.uk/rescue-summary (accessed 9 September 2018).

  ‘My son, come on out . . .’: ‘Out of the Dark’, Four Corners, ABC, 16 July 2018.

  Bowing to the Triple Gems translation: http://www.wattampainenglish.com/daily-chants.html (accessed 15 September 2018).

  8 A sense of direction

  ‘Whoever said they don’t want . . .’: video broadcast by Spring News, Thailand.

  ‘. . . both members of the influential “Eastern Tigers’ faction”’: Wassana Nanuam, “‘Silent’ military coup beats having a real one’, Bangkok Post, 12 December 2013, https://www.bangkokpost.com/print/384364/.

  ‘John Volanthen was a young Scout . . .’: ‘Thai cave diver John Volanthen awarded highest Scout honour’, BBC, 13 September 2018, https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-england-bristol-45511496.

  ‘I’d love to do something like that . . .’: Rick Stanton, DiverNet, October 2007, http://archive.divernet.com/cave-diving/p302428-rick-stanton.html.

  ‘Wetsuits, wellies, small cylinders . . .’: ‘Cutting edge British cave divers abroad’, a presentation given to the Royal Geographical Society, December 2017, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6OEP1OMWM0.

  ‘Together they set the record . . .’: ‘MBE rewards cave diving ability and fortitude’: DiverNet, 8 February 2013, http://archive.divernet.com/home-diving-news/p296464-mbe-rewards-cave-diving-ability-and-fortitude.html (accessed 15 September 2018).

  ‘And then there were the rescues . . .’: various sources including divernet.org and BBC, checked by John Volanthen.

  ‘The SEALs had a gut feeling . . .’: Ruengrit Changkwanyuen (Pae).

  9 Plan B

  ‘In the dream, Princess Nang Non . . .’: Facebook post, 27 June 2018, https://www.facebook.com/search/top/?q=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Fnattanuch.prasertong%2Fposts%2F10160470193265425.

  Details about Kruba Boonchum, Paul T, Cohen (ed.), Charismatic monks of Lanna Buddhism, Nordic Institute of Asian Studies, 2017; https://dhammawiki.com/index.php/Khuva_Boonchum.

  10 Help arrives

  ‘Each had sent cars . . .’: Woranan Ratrawiphakkun (Tik).

  ‘Hey, sir, I’m sure you’re tracking . . .’: ‘Out of the Dark’, op cit.

  ‘. . . from the Air Force’s 353rd Special Operations Group . . .’: Author’s correspondence with Lieutenant Renee Douglas, Public Affairs Advisor, 353rd Special Operations Group, 19 October 2018.

  ‘So we go into the cave . . .’: ‘Out of the Dark’, op cit.

  ‘When I woke up’ and other quotes by Surapin Chaichompoo: Associated Press, 27 September 2018, accessed via the Australian Broadcasting Corporation, https://www.abc.net.au/news/2018-09-27/workers-trapped-in-thai-cave/10311758.

  ‘It was an overcast day in Canberra . . .’: Australian Defence Force, 30 June 2018, https://images.defence.gov.au/assets/archives/5003-All%20Defence%20Imagery/?Redirecting=yyy&q=S20182349 (accessed 8 September 2018).

  ‘. . . with experience diving in flooded caves . . .’: media release from Foreign Minister Julie Bishop, 30 June 2018, https://foreignminister.gov.au/releases/Pages/2018/jb_mr_180630.aspx?w=tb1CaGpkPX%2FlS0K%2Bg9ZKEg%3D%3D.

  ‘. . . a specialist psychologist and chaplain . . .’: correspondence with AFP national media team, 10 September 2018.

  11 Hope and heart

  ‘. . . the Wild Boars had a meeting . . .’: Coach Ek, Sending the Wild Boars Home press conference, op cit.

  ‘In less than an hour . . .’: Coach Ek, Sending the Wild Boars Home press conference, ibid.

  ‘Some of the holes went three or four metres in . . .’: Note, Sending the Wild Boars Home press conference, ibid.

  ‘. . . when Dom was digging . . .’: media event with Wild Boars at Siam Paragon, Bangkok, 6 September 2018.

  ‘SEALs had their sights set . . .’: Ruengrit Changkwanyuen (Pae).

  ‘The SEALs devised . . .’: ibid.

  ‘There were around 10,000 people . . .’: Somsak Kanakham.

  ‘Titan thought he heard a helicopter . . .’: media event with Wild Boars at Siam Paragon, op cit.

  ‘. . . ghosts visiting when people had low energy . . .’: Andrew Alan Johnson, Ghosts of the New City: Spirits, Urbanity, and The Ruins of Progress in Chiang Mai, Silkworm Books, 2014.

  ‘When the parents of the Wild Boars heard . . .’: ‘A mystical take on the Tham Luang cave rescue’, 4 July 2018, https://www.bangkokpost.com/print/1497458/ (accessed 6 September 2018).

  12 Unravelling

  ‘. . . they were again blocked . . .’: Woranan Ratrawiphakkun (Tik).

  ‘They had nev
er experienced a darkness . . .’: several divers described the cave darkness this way.

  13 Getting closer

  ‘Mae Bua Chaicheun had spent . . .’: profile drawn (with permission) from reporting of Anne Barker, ABC, 7 July 2018, http://www.abc.net.au/news/2018-07-07/thailand-cave-rescue-water-floods-volunteers-rice-farm/9951636 (accessed 16 September 2018).

  ‘. . . more than 100 other farmers . . .’: Pratch Rujivanarom, ‘Selfless farmers allow farms to be flooded for cave operation’, Vajiravit Lerdbamrungchai, 3 July 2018.

  ‘resolve of the divers was hardening . . .’: Ruengrit Changkwanyuen (Pae).

  14 ‘Brilliant’

  ‘I felt faint and lack of energy . . .’: quotes from Sending the Wild Boars Home press conference, op cit.

  Transcript: Royal Thai Navy, video accessed via https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4WAEsSDhvk.

  ‘. . . produced a bottle of vodka . . .’: Narinthorn Na Bangchang, Pichamon Changkwanyuen, Ruengrit Changkwanyuen (Pae), and Ivan Karadzic.

  ‘I was still in my wetsuit . . .’: Matt Pond, Phuket News, 7 July 2018.

  15 Options

  SEALs and doctor take supplies: Sending the Wild Boars Home press conference, op cit.

  ‘Initially it’s a huge sigh of relief . . .’: Out of the Dark, op cit.

  ‘Everyone was worried . . .’: interview by Thai PBS, 16 July 2018, translation Boontin Posayanukul (Tin).

  ‘At a chemical level . . .’: Refeeding Syndrome: prevention and management, Sydney Children’s Hospital, 2013, http://www.schn.health.nsw.gov.au/_policies/pdf/2013-7036.pdf; advice from Dr Michael Sheridan, Emergency Director, Geelong Hospital; ‘The importance of the Refeeding Syndrome’, Nutrition, 2001, https://www.hopkinsmedicine.org/gim/_pdf/consult/refeeding_syndrome.pdf.

  ‘This will kill the infection . . .’: video released by the Thai Navy SEALs.

  ‘Initially it’s a huge sigh of relief . . .’: ‘Out of the Dark’, op cit.

  Lipong birds nest collectors leave and return: panel discussion in Bangkok by Chaiyapruk Werawong and others, 27 August 2018 (notes and quotes by Boontin ‘Tin’ Posayanukul); and ‘Bird’s nest collectors scour for ways into Thai cave’, Agence France-Presse, reprinted in Nation newspaper, 6 July 2018, http://www.nationmultimedia.com/detail/national/30349444 (accessed 30 August 2018).