Mauve

by Simon Garfield

Reinhardt, Carsten, and Travis, Anthony S., Heinrich Caro and the Creation of Modern Chemical Industry, Kluwer Academic Publishers, The Netherlands, 2000

  Rhys, Grace, Modes & Manners of the Nineteenth Century, J. M. Dent & Co., London, 1909

  Ross, Ronald, Memoirs, John Murray, London, 1923

  Routledge Robert, Discoveries and Inventions of the Nineteenth Century, George Routledge and Sons, Ltd, London, 1900

  Rowe, Frederick Maurice, The Development of the Chemistry of Commercial Synthetic Dyes (1856–1938), The Institute of Chemistry of Great Britain and Ireland, 1938

  Scott, H. Harold, A History of Tropical Medicine, Edward Arnold & Co., London, 1938

  Singer, Charles, The Earliest Chemical Industry: An Essay in the Historical Relations of Economics and Technology Illustrated from the Alum Trade, The Folio Society, London, 1948

  Spanier, Ehud, ed., The Royal Purple and the Biblical Blue: The Study of Chief Rabbi Dr Isaac Herzog on the Dye Industries in Ancient Israel and Recent Scientific Contributions, Keter, Jerusalem, 1987

  Stephens, J. W. W., Blackwater Fever, Hodder & Stoughton Ltd., 1937

  Taylor, Lou, Mourning Dress: A Costume and Social History, George Allen & Unwin, London, 1983

  Taylor, Norman, Cinchona in Java, Greenberg, New York, 1945

  – Plant Drugs that Changed the World, George Allen & Unwin Ltd., London, 1966

  Tordoff, Maurice, The Servant of Colour, The Society of Dyers and Colourists, Bradford, 1984

  Tozer, Jane, and Levitt, Sarah, Fabric of Society, Laura Ashley Ltd, Wales, 1983

  Travis, Anthony S., The Colour Chemists, Brent Schools and Industry Project, 1983

  – The Rainbow Makers: The Origins of the Synthetic Dyestuffs Industry in Western Europe, Lehigh University Press, Bethlehem; Associated University Presses, London and Toronto, 1993

  Various authors, Proceedings of the Celebration of the Three Hundredth Anniversary of the First Recognised Use of Cinchona, St Louis, USA, 1931

  Various authors, The Life and Work of Professor William Henry Perkin (Jnr), The Chemical Society, London, 1932

  Various authors, Perkin Centenary, London: 100 Years of Synthetic Dyestuffs, Pergamon Press, 1958

  Various authors, Malaria: Parasites, Transmission and Treatment, The London Cinchona Bureau, 1963

  Various authors. Proceedings of the Second Annual Conference of the Costume Society: High Victorian Costume 1860–1890, London, 1969

  Venkataraman, K., The Chemistry of Synthetic Dyes, Organic and Biological Chemistry: A Series of Monographs, Academic Press, New York, 1952

  – The Analytical Chemistry of Synthetic Dyes, John Wiley & Sons, 1977

  Waddington, Herbert, The Story of a Family Business Expanded and Revived, Leeds, 1953

  Wagner, Rudolf Von, Manual of Chemical Technology, translated and edited by William Crookes, J. & A. Churchill, London, 1892

  Walkey, Christina, The Way to Wear ’Em: 150 Years of Punch On Fashion, Peter Owen, London, 1985

  Watts, Henry, A Dictionary of Chemistry, and the Allied Branches of Other Sciences, Longmans, Green and Co., London, 1870

  Waugh, Nora, The Cut of Women’s Clothes 1600–1930, Theatre Arts Books/Methuen, New York, 1968

  Weatherall, M., In Search of a Cure, Oxford University Press, 1990

  White, Howard J., ed., Proceedings of the Perkin Centennial, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, New York, 1956

  Whittaker, C. M., and Wilcock, C. C., Dyeing with Coal-Tar Dyestuffs: The Principles Involved and the Methods Employed, Baillière, Tindall and Cox, London, 1949

  Wingate, P. J., The Colorful Du Pont Company, Serendipity Press, 1982

  INDEX

  Abel, Frederick 1

  acid phosphatase test 1

  Acordis 1

  AGFA 1, 2, 3

  Albert, Prince Consort 1, 2; development of chemistry and 1, 2, 3, 4

  alchemy 1

  Alexander the Great 1

  Alexandra, Princess 1

  alizarin 1, 2, 3, 4; patents 1, 2

  All the Year Round 1, 2

  American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists 1

  aminoazonaphthalene 1

  ammonia 1, 2

  anaesthetics 1

  Andersonian Institution 1

  Angle, Kurt 1

  aniline 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  aniline dyes 1; alizarin 1, 2, 3, 4;

  aminoazonaphthalene 1;

  commercial exploitation 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7;

  discovery 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7;

  fashion for colour mauve 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6;

  fastness 1, 2;

  foreign competition 1, 2, 3;

  further developments 1;

  indigo 1, 2, 3;

  magenta 1, 2, 3, 4;

  mauve dye 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12;

  original patent (1856) 1, 2;

  patent disputes 1, 2, 3, 4;

  poisoning by 1, 2;

  recipe 1, 2, 3;

  uses 1, 2

  anthracene 1, 2

  anthraquinone 1

  anthrax 1

  antiseptics 1

  Arbour Terrace School 1

  arsenic 1, 2, 3

  art 1, 2; synthetic pigments 1

  Artisan, The 1

  aspirin 1

  Atebrin 1

  aurin 1

  Auschwitz 1

  Autochrome photographic plates 1

  bacteriology 1, 2

  Baekeland, Leo 1

  Baeyer, Adolf von 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  Bakelite 1

  Balfour, A.J. 1

  Bancroft, Edward 1

  Barlow, Rev. 1

  Barnes, Julian 1

  Baseler Chemische Industrie 1

  BASF 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6: ammonia production 1;

  British factory 1, 2;

  Dystar venture 1;

  indigo and 1, 2, 3

  Bayer 1, 2

  Bechstein, Karl 1

  Beckers, W. 1

  Beer, Thomas 1

  Beeton, Isabella 1

  Beeton, Samuel 1

  Beneke, F. W. B. 1

  benzene 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

  benzoic acid 1

  biochemistry 1

  Black, James 1

  Black Horse pub 1

  Black Thornton 1

  Boerhaave, Hermann 1

  Bosch, Carl 1

  Botterill, John 1

  Bottiger, Dr 1

  Boulton, John 1

  Bradford Dyers Association 1

  Brandreth, Gyles 1

  British Alizarine Company 1, 2, 3

  British Association 1, 2, 3, 4

  British Colour Council 1

  British Dyes Ltd 1

  British Dyestuffs Corporation 1

  British Medical Journal 1

  Britton, Edgar 1

  Brooke, Edward 1, 2

  Brooke, Simpson and Spiller 1, 2, 3

  Brotherton 1

  Bruhl, J.W. 1

  Brunok, Heinrich 1

  Buckminsterfullerine 1

  Bud, Robert 1

  Buller, Nicholas 1

  Buna factory 1, 2

  Bunsen, Robert Wilhelm 1, 2

  Burt, Boulton and Heywood 1

  Byatt, A. S. 1

  Cable Street (London) 1

  caffeine 1

  Caldecourt, Fran 1

  Calico Printers Association 1

  Cambridge University 1

  cancers 1, 2

  Caro, Heinrich 1, 2, 3; alizarin process and 1, 2, 3, 4;

  book on history of dye industry 1;

  condolences to Lady Perkin 1;

  postage stamp dyes and 1;

  rhodamine dyes and 1

  Carothers, Wallace 1

  carpentry 1, 2

  Carr, Albert 1

  cartelisation 1

  Cassella & Co 1, 2

  Caventou, Jean Biename 1

  cell staining 1, 2, 3, 4

  Chadwicks of Oldham 1

  Chandler, Charles 1, 2

 
; Chaptal, J. 1

  Charlemagne 1

  Chaucer, Geoffrey 1

  Cheltenham spa water 1

  Chemical News 1

  Chemical Society 1, 2, 3, 4

  chemistry 1, 2; development of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7;

  links with industry 1, 2, 3, 4;

  Perkin’s interest in 1, 2,

  see also aniline dyes;

  Royal College of Chemistry

  Chemists Club (New York) 1, 2

  chemotherapy 1, 2

  chlorine 1

  cholera 1, 2

  Christ Church (Harrow) 1

  Church, Arthur 1, 2, 3, 4

  cinchona bark 1, 2

  cinchonidine 1

  cinnamic acid 1

  City of London School 1, 2

  C. K. Witco 1

  Clairol 1

  Clark, James 1

  Clayton Aniline Co 1

  Cleopatra 1

  coal-tar 1, 2, 3; derivatives 1, 2, 3,

  see also aniline dyes

  cochineal 1, 2

  Cochran, Johnnie 1

  codeine 1

  Colin, Jean Jacques 1

  Color Marketing Group 1

  Columbia University 1

  computer inks 1

  Cook, James 1

  Cooke, David 1, 2

  Cope, Arthur 1, 2

  cortisone 1

  coumarin 1, 2, 3

  Courtaulds 1

  Cowper, William 1

  Crace-Calvert, Dr Frederick 1

  criminal intelligence 1

  crinolines 1

  Crisp, Quentin 1

  Cromwell, Oliver 1

  Cronshaw, C. J. T. 1

  cyanide 1

  cyanogen 1

  dahlia 1

  Daily Telegraph 1, 2, 3

  Dalton, John 1

  Daubeny, Frank 1

  Davy, Humphrey 1

  DDT 1

  De la Rue 1

  Degesch 1

  Delmonico’s 1, 2

  deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) 1, 2

  Deutsche Chemische Gesellschaft 1

  Deville, St Clair 1

  Dickens, Charles 1, 2

  diphtheria 1

  disinfectants 1

  Doering, William von Eggers 1

  Dollfus, Daniel 1

  Domagk, Gerhard 1

  Drabble, Margaret 1

  Dreyfus, Charles 1

  dry cleaning 1

  du Pont, John Éleuthère 1

  du Pont de Nemours, Éleuthère 1

  Duisberg, Cari 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  DuPont 1, 2, 3

  Dyer and Textile Printer 1, 2

  dyes: aniline see aniline dyes; animal 1;

  cell staining 1, 2, 3, 4;

  cochineal 1, 2;

  dRhodamine gel dyes 1;

  dyeing industry 1, 2, 3, 4, 5:

  dyeing process 1, 2;

  history 1, 2;

  lichen dyes 1;

  madder 1, 2;

  Murex 1;

  post-war advances 1;

  reactive dyes 1:

  vegetable 1, 2, 3, 4, 5;

  woad 1, 2, 3, 4,

  see also indigo

  Dystar 1

  East India Company 1, 2

  Eastman, George 1

  Eastman Kodak 1

  education 1; William Perkin’s 1, 2

  Edward VII, King 1

  Ehrlich, Paul 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

  elements 1

  Elizabeth II, Queen 1

  engineering 1

  Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine 1

  Eugénie, Empress 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  explosives 1, 2, 3, 4

  Fahlberg, Constantine 1

  Fairbairn, Professor 1

  Faraday, Michael 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

  Faraday Society 1

  fashion: colours 1, 2; crinolines 1;

  mauve 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6;

  Tencel fabric 1, 2

  fire-proofing 1

  First World War 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  flannelette 1

  Flaubert, Gustave 1

  Flemming, Walther 1

  food colouring 1, 2, 3

  forensic human identification 1

  formaldehyde 1

  fosmidomycin 1

  Fowles, John 1

  Franc et Cie 1

  France, G. H. 1

  Frankland, Edward 1

  fuchsine 1, 2

  Gagelin and Opigez 1

  garancine 1

  gas lighting 1

  Gas World 1

  Geigy, J. G. 1

  genetic research 1

  Gerard, Lord 1

  Gerlach, Joseph von 1

  Gilbert, Kerry 1, 2

  Gladstone, William Ewart 1

  Glasgow, University of 1

  Glaxo Wellcome 1

  Goethe, Johann Wolfgang von 1

  Goldenberg, Ralph 1

  Gosselin, May 1

  Gowland, William 1

  Graebe, Carl 1, 2

  Graham, Thomas 1

  Great Exhibition (1851) 1, 2

  Greene, Sally 1

  Greenford Green 1, 2, 3, 4

  Griess, Peter 1

  Guinon, Marnas et Bonnet 1, 2

  Haber, Fritz 1

  hair colouring 1, 2

  Haldane, Richard 1

  Hall, Charles 1

  Hall, Thomas 1, 2

  Harris, Ambrose 1

  Harris, Hannah 1

  Harrow Gazette 1, 2, 3

  Harrow Observer 1

  Hastings, Nora 1

  Herbert, Lawrence 1

  Herodotus 1

  Heron, Patrick 1

  Heumann, Karl 1

  Higgins, Scott 1

  Hilfiger, Tommy 1

  Hill, John 1

  Hitler, Adolf 1

  Hoechst: alliances 1, 2; artificial indigo and 1, 2;

  British factory 1, 2;

  research laboratories 1

  Hoffman, Steve 1

  Hofinann, August Wilhelm von 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6; colour production by 1, 2, 3;

  patent disputes and 1;

  Perkin’s discovery of aniline dye and 1, 2, 3;

  poisoning scare and 1;

  return to Germany 1, 2;

  synthesis of natural substances and 1, 2, 3;

  as tutor 1, 2

  Hogg, Robert 1, 2

  Hooke, Robert 1

  Hughes, Geoffrey 1

  IG Farben 1, 2, 3, 4

  Illustrated London News 1

  immunology 1

  Imperial Chemical Industries (ICI) 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

  Imperial College 1, 2

  indigo 1; artificial 1, 2, 3;

  decline in 1;

  production of 1, 2, 3;

  revival 1;

  sources 1, 2

  Inouye, H. 1

  International Exhibition (1862) 1, 2

  isomerism 1

  Izzard, Eddie 1

  James I, King 1

  Japan Chemical Association 1

  Jefferson, Edward G. 1, 2

  Jefferson, Thomas 1, 2

  Jenner, Edward 1

  Johns Hopkins University 1

  Judd, Deane B. 1

  Julius Caesar 1

  Kalle of Biebrich 1

  Keith, Thomas 1, 2, 3, 4

  Kekulé, August 1

  King David Fort 1, 2, 3

  King David Lane 1

  Kirkpatrick, Peter Crichton 1

  Kirkpatrick, W. Ronald 1

  Kistler, Vivian 1

  Knietsch, Rudolph 1

  Koch, Robert 1, 2

  Krieble, Vernon 1

  Kroto, Hany 1

  Kunz, George F. 1

  Kutroff, Adolf 1

  La Fuchsine 1

  Lanchester, John 1

  Landau, Ralph 1

  Langmuir, Irving 1

  Lavoisier, Antoine 1

  Leathersellers Company 1

  leatherwork 1

  Leeuwenhoek, Anton van 1

  Leikind, Morris 1

  Leonard, Sugar Ray 1

  Leth
eby, Henry 1

  Levi, Primo 1, 2

  Levinstein, Herbert 1, 2, 3, 4

  Levinstein, Ivan: dyemaking 1, 2, 3; patent problems and 1, 2;

  poisoning scare and 1;

  research and 1;

  takeover of Hoechst’s British factory 1

  Levi’s 1

  lichen dyes 1

  Liebermann, Carl 1, 2

  Liebig, Justus von 1, 2, 3, 4

  Linstead, Sir Patrick 1

  Lister, Joseph 1

  litigation: patent disputes 1, 2, 3, 4

  Little AG 1

  Little Rock Gazette 1

  Livingstone, David 1

  Lloyd George, David 1

  Loctite 1

  London Commercial Record 1

  Long Ashton Research Station 1

  Lumière, Auguste and Louis 1

  Lyocell 1

  McCartney, Stella 1

  McClellan, George B. 1

  Macintosh, Charles 1

  macintosh coats 1

  McKie, Robin 1

  MacLennan, Sandy 1, 2, 3

  madder 1, 2

  magenta 1, 2, 3, 4

  malaria 1, 2

  Manchester Guardian 1, 2

  Manchester Tramway Co 1

  Mansfield, Charles 1, 2

  Marco Polo 1

  Marks & Spencer 1

  Martius, Carl Alexander 1, 2

  matches: safety match 1

  Matheson, William J. 1

  Mayhew, Henry 1

  Medlock, Henry 1

  Meldola, Raphael 1, 2, 3, 4

  mepacrine 1, 2

  Mestral, George de 1

  Meyer-Betz, F. 1

  microscopes 1

  Midgley, Thomas 1

  Miescher, Friedrich 1

  Milan 1

  Miller, W. A. 1

  molecules 1

  Monnet et Dury 1

  Monteith, Henry 1

  mordants 1, 2, 3

  Moriarty, Judi 1

  Morris, Laurence E. 1, 2, 3

  Morris, William 1

  mourning 1

  Mouy, Monsieur 1

  Muller, Hugo 1

  Muller-Pack & Co 1

  Murex dyes 1

  murexide 1, 2

  Museum of Practical Geology 1

  Museum of Science and Industry (Manchester) 1, 2

  music 1

  naphtha 1, 2

  naphthalidine 1

  Napier, James 1

  Napoleon III, Emperor 1, 2